ncdruroSor

Where does this wire go on the alt?
Black with red stripe or red with black stripe?

https://youtu.be/MykNy8e5boM
Shelby 500 transformation

What, they couldn't fit enough rubber without those hideous flares? Other than that it's cool.

The August 2010 issue of Mustang Monthly contains the small photo and blurb that I've attached below about Retrobuilt's modern rendition of a 1969 Mach 1 using a 2005 to 2010 newer Mustang body. They also do a 1969 Shelby GT-500 version. Not sure what to think about but hopefully they'll be more out about it in the future.

I just  got the Manual to Power Brake conversion from Mustang Steve. It was the Master Cylinder, Booster and Automatic Pedal plus all the fittings, nice set!
 
Before I go at it, I want to make sure of one thing. On his instructions he said to use a 1/2 Drill when drilling the holes on the fire wall.
The Booster studs are 3/8's. Is he saying to use a 1/2" drill or use a 1/2 bit???

something broke and about went over the front

Like the title says the passenger & drivers side window are both in need of new weatherstripping. The passenger side window has maybe 1" play on the A pillar end the B pillar doesn't have any slop to it. I have watched the WCCC you tube video on rebedding the glass.
 
After talking with John at Cascade Classics he said I maybe able to just adjust that window to get the correct fit and just replace the belt line rubber on both doors. The divers side operates fine with the exception of needing new belt line rubber on it & the inside door opening mechanism is stiff should just need a good cleaning and lube. Both doors, trunk and hood need new weatherstripping the trunk is original and is hard as a rock. That's pretty straight forward unless someone has some good tips on removing the old hardened rubber.
 
I just can't make up my mind should I just go ahead with rebuilding & rebedding both windows while I'm working on it or let it go till they need repair? I'm probably going to rebuild both doors they're cheap to fix just time consuming.
 
I was told on the WCCC video on rebedding the windows that they cleaned all the adhesive out of the channels and that can cause an alignment problem there are 2 rubber stops on the bottom of the channel that keep the window squared up when you assemble them there was nothing said about those pieces anyone had any experience or advise on rebedding the windows?
 
Bob 

Hey Guys, 
 
I want to fix my window rattle and would like to know what part numbers or size screw and threads, I looked inside both doors and I Practically need every nut and screw the holds the window plates, the square washer/screw the goes below the window rail guides. also, I need a set of those window plastic guides... from what I herd, the repos are garbage. 
 
not looking for concourse, but most likely head to a hardware supply store, almost all the screw I have are the incorrect sizes. 
 
also, can any show me how to route the drive side mirror cable? it binds when I try to adjust.
 

A little back history. Three to four years ago I saw a local Craigslist ad for a 9 inch carrier with 3.50 ratio, N case Daytona pinion support bearing, traction lok. I drive over to his place 4-5 miles away and right away see he has a 69 Mustang in his garage. We talk shop, we make the deal and I'm gone.
 
Bear with me, it'll make sense. About a year and a half ago I call a guy regarding a 351W block for sale. Call him up and sounds familiar, get directions to his place and damned if it isn't the same guy I bought the 9 inch from.
 
So the other day I'm checking around this site zapping the spammers when I see new member lalojamesliz post that he's from Bakersfield. WTFresno? Bakersfield? Me too. I reply to his thread and ask him to call me. The phone rings this afternoon and my caller ID has a guy's name and Ford Parts included in the name line. WTH? I answer the phone and lalojamesliz introduces himself and says he's from this site. I'm thinking and asking lalo why I have his number in my phone, have we meet before? It was truly a Twilight Zone moment. Right then it hit us both. Yep, same dude. Same guy I bought the 9 inch from. You'd think at some point I'd remember him.
 
Anyway, he's now a member here so chances are I'm remember him. The good part is that he's a good guy. When I first met him he was fair, knowledgeable and easy to deal with buying parts, and I'm pleased he's joined us here.

I'm converting my 1969 to power brakes and need the Stop Lamp Switch for Power Disc.
 
I can't find it anywhere, does anyone have the correct part number.
Thanks a ton!

I think this is kona blue, can someone make Angel's coupe kona blue and/or true blue? Thanks for the pic Angel.

So I decided it was time for a change. I let the Mach1 go and picked up a new project, a 74 F100 shortbed with a 390. So off to the truck forums I go.
 
But I couldn't leave without saying goodbye and thanking you guys. This is a great forum and I wish you all the best.
 
Randy.

I have searched here and found some and not some answers. Too bad I can't pull up the old websites history, there was a ton of info there.
 
Is the visible part of the  steering column in the interior, Dark Charcoal Metallic?  I will be using the spray can version.
 
I had a snap ring in front of the upper bearing and a lock ring behind it. Is there suppose to be another snap ring near the steering wheel?
 
The parts I'm ordering are:
(2) rubber seals, (1) white plastic bushing from Muscle Car Research.
1 upper bearing and rubber seal
1 turn signal wire harness
 
Mike65 said the bearing number is F23z-3517 67-93, but when I pull that up it shows all other Ford vehicles besides a 69/70.
 
Are there any other parts I'm missing or any advise to give.
 
Thanks!

I decided to ditch the 302 build and finally use the 1969 351w block I have been saving for many years. 
I've read probe makes a good 408w kit. 
Anyone know who or where I can call to discuss what kit to buy?
 
How about the heads, I was going to use some trick flow 11r 190 heads. Would those still be good or should I get the afr 205 heads? Or smaller?
 
I'm worried I'll have piston to valve clearance issues. That's why I want to talk to the stroker kit vendor to make sure I'm good and have a 91 octane friendly compression :)
Thanks guys

Well here is the best rolling shot of the Rally IMHO...Guy was literally hanging out of the photo car on the pass side taking rolling shots..dude was about 4-6" from his knuckles drabbing the ground doing 70mph...makes for cool photos tho...hes printing me up a canvas and poster

Need to get new lcas, whose brand is the best.
One of mine has a rust hole. small one too.
Got Moog or Scott Drake down here.

Today I went to do the switch, but he Borgenson fit was extremely tight. The round part of the gear box rested on top of the frame which caused the alignment holes to off. Eventually I was able to catch a thread on each hole, but had to rotate the tightening of the bolts. After a while the bottom bolt went flush on the frame but the top 2 bolts were out about an 1/8", I had to go back and fourth, tightening the bolts with effort one at a time until the whole unit was flush against the frame.
 
I then saw that the Borgenson steering shaft was off center from my Steering column. There is a little play on my column so I pushed it hard to one side trying to line it up with the Borgenson but it did not center.
 
I think if I loosen the steering column from the firewall that I might be able to get the column to move a little more. (I think that might work, but not sure).
 
When I took the unit back off I can see a cut mark on the frame from the unit being forced on.
 
IMO I actually think the casting material on the Borgenson is built up too much. You can see evidence of that in the pictures.
I'd like to grind it off but the warrentee will be void.
 
I did contact Borgenson and sent some pics. The Rep said it should be an easy bolt in. I'll find out tomorrow.
 
What do you think????

I'm looking at getting an aftermarket steering wheel for my '70, I love the looks of the wood wheels, but I think leather is more comfortable. I see most of the aftermarket wheels are 14" where my stock is 15.5". For those of you with aftermarket wheels, do the 14" wheels block your visibility of the factory gauges? I'm 6'0" and it looks like it might be a problem. I'm leaning towards LeCarra, but I'm open to other ideas as well. I have a ginger interior and I'm having a hard time finding leather to match.  
 
If you would also be inclined to post pics as well, I'd appreciate it.
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

Not exactly sure what the part is called but I guess you get the idea. 
 
I want to install the trans support for alignment purposes (replacing both floor supports)  When I went to bolt it in, there is two places on the drivers side of the cross-member.  Which one was used with the fmx.  One fits pretty easy , the other seems far off.  Just want to be sure I'm suing the correct one.  did I make sense?

Any one opted to paint there Hood blackout in gloss instead of the original Matt style. My car is going into the booth on Friday and I'm still undecided what way to go.

Hello everyone,
  I have a 69 Mustang with a stock 70 351C and C6 transmission. I think the C6 is on its last leg and am considering a AOD swap, or spend ~$1000 on c6 rebuild (beefed up for future rebuild). In the future I am thinking 351W stroker 408 with about ~500 hp so the transmission would need to handle the hp. Or just build the cleveland to ~500 hp, but can decide later as that is a few years away. I see a lot of articles online and in this forum about converting c4 or FMX transmissions to AOD and that there are parts and conversion kits available for such. Also most of these conversion kits are for 289, 302 and 351W. But I cannot find much information or conversion kits for my 70' 351C and C6 to AOD (with 4r70w internals for longevity and increased hp capacity). Can you all knowing owners please point me to some information or list of parts needed for this type of swap. Can I use the 351w parts? What about the yoke and drive shaft?    Thank you,   Sean

I reed some were that if I run a 65 coil spring on a 69 mustang it will lower about 2 inches is this true? Has anyone done it?

I am trying to get 2 of the plastic lugs (as seen in the attached Photos) that fit in the aluminium bottom lower sections of the rear window molding trim & holds the window molding trim to the lower trim clips would anyone have any.
 No longer required I found a supplier,purchased 3 of them from Mustangs Etc. Van Nuys, CA.They were very helpful & prompt shipping to Australia.Highly recommend.Cheers Phil
 
  
 

Just wanted to share what I did with my trunk. I do not have a fold down seat but needed a place to mount my amp. I used 1/8" sheet metal and had it rolled. I then cut out the door, used a piano hinge and a glove box latch. Kind of like outting a glove box in the trunk. Gives me a place to mount the amp out of the way and still use the storage space under the package tray.
 

Hello, new to joining the forum.  Have followed a lot of the other builds here, which are awesome, and wanted to share where we are in ours.  My dad and I acquired the car in late 2014.  It came with an extremely mild 351C and a C6 tranny.  He tinkered on it here and there and added a few parts but always wanted a little more.. who doesn't.. So after I brought home a 2016 mustang GT he was hooked on the coyote 5.0  We had originally planned strictly a front end conversion and engine/tranny swap but this has turned into a full blown build.  Many of the parts came from Mustangs to Fear, and they have been really really nice to work with.  All of the work is being completed by GT Graphics and Customs out of Franklin, NC.  Both Gary and Teresa over at GT Graphics and Customs are first class individuals.  We couldn't be more pleased with them.
 
I won't bore you with a parts list so here's some pictures of where we are at!
 
Here's the current stable of cars:
 

 
The tear down...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
Some problem areas...