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uncledoodoo

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Everything posted by uncledoodoo

  1. I had my FMX rebuilt, it took them over a month waiting on parts and they only had one guy who knew a thing about them. Cost me $750 (out of the car). It was worth it to me because I didn't want to spend $3K to convert (there are a lot of things to consider besides the transmission when converting), and because my FMX is VIN stamped original to my car.
  2. Thanks! Yeah, I didn't get much sleep that night, got up and spent a few more hours with my budget spreadsheet and found that I'd made a math mistake in my favor, so I don't have to sell it for now (and hopefully not for years to come). Its been in the family for over 10 years and there are a lot of hours and memories tied up in it :)
  3. with the color change you might narrow the market just a little bit, but I love the new color. Is it an H or M code? Either way, not a lot of them around. Good luck with sale, I hope you don't regret it later but if you get what its worth then I think you'll be happy. I thought I was going to have to sell mine, but for now I'm not so I get to enjoy it at least another year. I've got a guy begging me to sell mine and I just had to tell him "maybe next year", and I was asking $31K for a base (with a 351 and brand new restore).
  4. Haggerty's says 37 - 40K for a 2. That's always high-end price, but that's got to be a rare car. I have a 69 vert with a 351W but its not a GT. Do you have the high-end Marti report for it? I'd bet on your car being a 1 of 1. They couldn't have made many GT convertibles. Very nice car you've got there. I wouldn't let that one go for less than 35K myself, but I'm biased to verts and I know how rare it is (I'm also not "needing" to sell one). I think you'd make a mistake to take less than 30K, if I didn't already own one I'd be interested for sure!
  5. Nevermind, don't have to sell it now :)
  6. I feel your pain. Mine was not as bad, but I was in it when it started burning, one of the worst 10 minutes of my life. Now that I have it back, I still freak out about it when I see pictures like yours. A few days ago mine started smoking and I jumped out of the car almost before it quit rolling (turned out to be just some ATF getting into the exhaust). I have nothing to help but hope my "after" pictures give you something to look forward to. Before, after, and after restore
  7. You'd spend twice what its worth to bring that one back.
  8. I've bought 2 of the Holley refurb 650s with electric choke directly from Holley on ebay for less than $300 each, I have one on a 335/hp mildly built 289 the other on my stock 69 351W. Both sitting on Weiand Stealth intakes. So far I love them.
  9. I guess you've been here longer than me now, but I'm in Waxahachie just 20 miles south. Look forward to seeing you at a show or something soon.
  10. Mine sounded like a bunch of chickens. turned out to be the motor mounts.
  11. You can get a decent setup for $800 or so, I did for my 351. If you need all metal then you're going to pay. The actual shaker/scoop on the lower-priced ones are metal, but the base is fiber-glass. they also lack the functioning vacuum actuator you get with the more expensive ones. There is a lot to one, its not just a hood-scoop. You'll also have to cut a hole, or pay to have that done, or buy a hood with the hole pre-cut. I probably have $1500 in mine counting hood, labor, and shaker. But some things are worth it. You can look at my gallery for some pics of one on a 351w. We did have to cut the base down a bit for it to fit under the hood.
  12. I'd be interested in the interior A/C parts, also the rear-end if its a 9 inch.
  13. Nice rare 70 convertible, I hate you have to sell it, but that's a good price on it going by the pictures.
  14. 8.8 from an Explorer is 31 spline and stronger than the late model Mustangs. the offset doesn't hurt anything and the width is perfect for a 67 through 70. You also get disc brakes as a bonus. You can pick them up in junkyards for around $125. we bought 3 of them in 3.55, 3.78 and 4.10 traction-lock. You can google for the process or if you're near Dallas I have a guy that can do it very reasonably and probably has a rearend or two ready to go.
  15. good points here. I don't trust crate engines, take a good block to a local high-quality/reputable builder who can answer for their work if anything is not right without crazy expectations of shipping engines back and forth. One who does it right the first time. And $10K sounds high to me for what I know I can get one done for by a highly reputable builder close by.
  16. I'll take one out and try to find one with a flat head, I think you're right. Thanks.
  17. My car is nearly 100% done, just finishing a few cosmetics, but the boot won't snap to the snaps on the interior panels. The snaps have a phillips head screw which prevents the mail snap on the cover from mating. Can someone point me to a snap replacement kit?
  18. yep, new fire extinguisher in place. The fire started at the neutral safety-switch wiring and spread to some leaked PS fluid up to some oil and then the fuel-line. I was literally on my way to the car wash to wash all that off after fixing an oil leak.
  19. sounds great! I'm very familiar with Granbury having grown up in Benbrook and dated a girl or two from Granbury. I'm looking forward to it!
  20. Here's the cleaned up engine bay. Looks better than it used to as well, cleaned up and painted the bay, core-support, even the horns. Everything looks nice and fresh. All new wiring as well.
  21. I had my phone so I snapped a picture (actually a quick video), its painful to watch. Yeah, the repaint is closer to the original CAR, its supposed to be ford T, but a little bit brighter. Before it was closer to royal maroon, I think they painted it to match the interior (dark red), but the car was ordered CAR with dark-red interior.
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