Bob & Sue

1969-70 Deluxe door panel parts all in good to excellent condition. I just took the door panels apart C9ZB65 all parts are OEM will have pics later today. Best offer if interested pm me I still need to measure them to calculate shipping cost I only charge for actual shipping cost, if it fits in a USPS flat rate box that's what I'll use. 1) Woodgrain inserts RH/LH with Pony Emblem2) Z trim RH/LH 3) Courtesy Lights RH/LHAlso have a lot of pulleys, brake lens, side markers, dip sticks with tubes etc Pic of door panel part number.

How much is it? The price difference on Hagerty Values has a large swing in price from fair to excellent, $28,300 to $50,000. NADA is $14,100 low retail $53,000 high retail. Yah I know it's Hagerty & NADA values but it's a starting point if it needs paint & a cleveland engine would it be worth buying.

That's going to cost some bucks to repair it, you'll definitely need a good custom shop to try to match the paint it can be done for a price. I wouldn't let it kill the deal, do a complete inspection of the car (on a rack) with oil analysis. Folks do a good job of hiding things. I had a car with 3 coats of base & 3 coats of clear on it the hood had a 2" long ding on it from a branch it cost me $1200 10 years ago with the same painter to get it repainted luckily he still had the formula he used. I was just looking at C/L yesterday my old boat is on there the description has a few good lies like he was the 2nd owner I was the 3rd he had all the paperwork I gave him but still flat lied. Don't believe anything anyone says without documentation. Cleveland parts are pricey if you can find them.

I'd give Cal-Mustang a call they may have an easy solution. I don't remember if that channel was there or not we may have secured it with upholstery rings.

The one set I helped someone with is the same as your using we used the tiny ones to hold the long rods in place so they wouldn't slip possibly going thru the vinyl someday, he bought the small clips from WCCC I think. Do you have an upholstery ring crimping tool it makes securing them much easier. I used Cal-Mustangs Distinctive Ind Premium door panels they make quality pricey replacements the only complaint I had was on the lower edge the vinyl glue covered the popouts for the clips took awhile to cut them all out. I haven't seen any repops that come close to their quality without having a custom shop build them.

I bartered for some parts anybody interested in a set of 1969 OEM headrests right now I only have one I'll be picking up the other one next Monday & post some pics. I need to go through all the boxes there is a lot of parts all off of 69 base & deluxe coupe & fastbacks in dark blue & black. I checked one carb it's a C9ZF-D 2 sets oem tail light lenses & no rust buckets. Thought I'd give you guys first shot at the parts I'll post pics when I get everything sorted out.

There are many factors that play into header temps if your just driving around or cruizin you're not burning much fuel, go WOT for a 1/4 mile or a few laps around a track it's a whole different scenario. Coated ceramic is better you want to get the heat out the pipe not in the engine compartment. I've never personally checked header temp with a heat gun next year I'll take some readings on a couple cars right after a run just out of curiosity. edit; I have used a heat gun to find which plug has failed no fuel burn no heat cold header tube.

Nice. For your 1st attempt kudos. Yeah I'm leaning more to just buying a kit instead of modifying a new set. It is time consuming but for the same reason you modified more than planned I know myself it would bug me till I fixed them. If there's only an 1/8" clearance it's going to hit putting stress on something. I have about 100lbs of tig rod I need to use anyway from an auction house a couple years ago. Again Nice Job it feels great to accomplish & learn new skills.

My stock ceramic coated manifolds run at about 350* on a hot day. I put them back on after the long tube tuned headers had clearance issues. Thats a big heat difference for all that manifold material ceramic is the only coating I'd use. Tuned long tubes were never designed to run on the street the reason for long tubes is tuning purposes you can't get a shorty or tri-y tubes near the correct length ie all tubes must be the same length and flow tested to match your head setup. Bob

As stated above when you remove all the weaterstripping be sure to spend the time to remove the adhesive trust me you'll regret it if you don't (don't ask me how I know). Bob

The long tube Hooker headers like I had will have clearance problems the collectors on mine hit any speed bump I went over even small branches. I just started a thread on shorty hugger headers that won't need much if any mods to fit. I'd contact someone like Speedway Motors for your application, I prefer the ceramic coat for heat transfer stainless looks good for a few months. Instead of paying $600-$800 on headers for more power you could get something like Speedways for $200-$300. You'd gain more power on some upgrading distributor, new manifold & 4 barrel carb than the small amount gained by long tube tuned headers. Just my opinion others will have some input.

Speedway said they had checked JBA, I'm going to call them myself later today.

I've searched all over for some tight fit hugger shorty headers to fit my 69 Coupe 351W 4V Heads, C4 trans deep pan, power steering with stock ceramic coated manifolds. I've looked at & spoke to Hooker, Hedman, Dougs, Speedway headers none of them say they have anything that would fit. I find this hard to believe anyone have a similar setup with headers or any ideas. I don't mind cutting a couple tubes to make them fit, I won't use a hammer on them. Stainless, Bare, Coated I don't care which they are there isn't ground clearance for long tubes so I.m told. I'm thinking about just buying a kit to build my own if I need to.

I'd also remove all outer beltlines and replace with new ones after paint. Remove trunk lid. After removing weather stripping I'd prep & remove all sealant. Sure others have more Bob

Is it a single stage paint? If it is you should be able to deoxidize & polish the rear to get a good spectrum color match, I'd pull the trunk lid off & take it to the either the painter or paint supplier so they can match it correctly then paint either the hood or fender to see if your satisfied. If it's base/clear coat that can be trickier the base doesn't change color it's the clear that can oxidize making it harder to match if the clear isn't failing there shouldn't be any problem matching it. Any good painter or auto paint supplier can match it Wesco, PPG dealers etc.If your painter isn't confident in his abilities find another one. The painter should be able to feather it in if the color is matched correctly, there is a lot more to match it than just having paint mixed a lot of things can make a color mismatch humidity, temperature, not completely spraying the car (like doing hood waiting a couple hours then the fenders), changing spray pressure can very a color up or down on the spectrum, etc. Like stated above it's a big investment for most of us that said a $7,000-$10,000 is at the low end for a restoration paint job, a concours paint job will be anywhere north of $40,000 to over $100,000. I have a local restorer that is ok his jobs are about $7k & up. Another one I know won't do anything unless it's a body of restoration his quotes are bring it in minimum $40k we'll call you when we know how many hours we have in it for a final approval before spraying the car the last restomod I looked when he finished was $85k. It's a tough decision.

What years do they cover?

Maybe try giving Procar/Scat Seats a call in their catalog they show universal mounting brackets with sliders. I have Procar black leather seats with lowered seat tracks they're a great upgrade a bit pricey. I like them better than the Recaros in my Cad ATS V. http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/16procar_cat_vol3_ed2 Digital.pdf

Good reason to go with a quality charger with float mode. Our boats AC Converter/Charger had heat sensors on all the batteries making it almost impossible to fry a cell it would either go into float mode or shut that bank off. I left it plugged into shore power for 5 years without any failures, very seldom added water maybe 2 oz per battery a year. The Schumachers auto line have all that built in with their upper range charge they are a quality brand. I don't like buying from Schumacher after match racing Don for years. That's the same Schumacher that has a field of 3-4 Top Fuel Dragsters & Funny Cars DSR.

All depends on if your looking for a maintainer/charger that will be connected all the time, if you want a separate maintainer you can't beat Battery Tenders. I have a Schumacher fr01234 charger/maintainer/jump start fully automatic with float mode. Will charge AGM, Acid, Gel, Deep Cycle batteries. Schumacher uses the same technology as industrial & marine chargers they only charge the amperage needed in steps before going into float mode/maintainer. I don't see it on the website but mine also has a deionizer mode that will allow it to charge a completely dead battery if the battery isn't chargeable usually less than 50% of full charge with the cheaper chargers. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/schumacher-2-12-30-100a-6-12v-fully-automatic-with-engine-start similar to mine is this one https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC-10030A-SpeedCharge-Automatic-Maintainer/dp/B001MYWBF0

Like the title says if you have leather seats or couch this product is by far the best I've ever seen. An old dock mate of mine a few months ago asked me to help him take his yacht to a marine yard for some repairs. Nice yacht he just sold it a couple months ago. Similar to this one. 2001 Navigator 56 Power Boat For Sale - www.yachtworld.comHe was going to have the helm seat replaced for $3500 when he found out about this product. The seat was in terrible shape most people would have thrown it away, there were no tears just a lot of crease cracking. He said it took him just over a week to restore it because of drying times needed between each step. I'd seen the seat before he restored it it was in bad shape, I thought he'd replaced the seat when I saw it it looked new unless you really looked at it carefully.Here's a link to their website with videos the product isn't cheap but if you want to keep your original leather seats or repair a couch it's worth it. I just bought the Leather Care & Maintenance package to get my Procar seats cleaned & protected. This is for leather not vinyl.The video takes over an hour to watch him go through the whole process you would never believe an original 96 Mustang leather seat could look like this before & after. Websitehttps://www.leathertouchupdye.com/Video

I've bought quite a few LED's from super bright they sell quality bulbs not cheapos like most stuff on the internet, their CS is great.

Could you send some pics? Actually I'm in Washington zip 98321 Thanks Bob

Yeah the shipping would be ridiculous about $75 a wheel. Thanks let me know what you can do.

Took some pics of my door panels before finishing the drivers side thought I'd show the difference between buying Quality Premium Panels vs OEM grade. The difference in thickness makes it a bit more difficult to mount a couple items the door handle opening needs to have the backing cut down almost to the vinyl to get them to slide in & the remote mirror hole is a pain to get cut to a thickness the nut will hold in the correct spot. These are Premium Grade purchased from Cal-Mustang.

Sorry if you took that as being bitchy it wasn't the OP had a smaller set sent from Australia that were to small. These emblems looked like they would cover up the OP speaker enclosure & are larger..