Bob & Sue

My dad died in 2003 from Mesothelioma we received the diagnosis 1 day after he went into a coma dying 3 days later. We never knew what the source was as he was exposed to many products containing asbestos. Our attorneys had us identify over 50 products he had come into contact with. Asbestos is still being used in Commercial Buildings in the USA. My 91 yr old mom was hospitalized a couple weeks ago with symptoms of mesothelioma she doesn't want a biopsy done at her age she doesn't want to know after caring for my dad for over a year. Tens of thousands wives have also contracted it from washing their husbands work clothes. ONE BIG item on a Mustang of the 60-70's era to NEVER grind on or file is the heater box it can contain upto 50% asbestos. Buy a new box the repops do not contain asbestos. Also spray down with water any carpeting of that era or have it tested.

I did mine last year it can be a pain, the PO had done a mickey mouse job filling it with several kinds of silicone & grinding out the original factory glue which tapered the brackets. I had to shim them to get them in the correct position by trial and error. 1) I wouldn't buy new regulators unless they're bent, just mushroom the pivot head as shown in the video 2) Doubt you need new guides it should only need new guide inserts ( buy a couple extras ) https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/69wguide.html?attribs=88 3) I'd only use the 3M Bonding Adhesive. In the video he uses a caulking gun with a bolt held on by a C clamp i wasted a tube when one of the bolts popped loose instead get a couple pieces of 1/2" PVC tubing to fit the tube or buy the 3M Gun. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/10022242.html?attribs=88 https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/14391-Adhesive-/-Epoxy-Applicator-Dual-Plunger-New-1967-1973-Mercury-/-1965-1973-Ford.html?attribs=88 4) Check the window runs the welds tend to brake if there's any rust inside the door. If not don't waste the money in repops. 5) I sprayed the inside of both doors with a rust inhibitor. I didn't have any rust inside just a precaution. 6) Lined the inside of door with pieces dynamat. 7) Get a new set of Vapor Barriers & Belt lines. Shop around the prices are all over the place. That's all I can think of. Sure someone else has some more tips

I've done some carpet & interior panels never as big of a job as your doing. I use a Paasche VLS airbrush you can control the amount of spray easily and blend any areas to the depth of color you want. I usually take a sample piece or the car to Wesco to get an exact match, they haven't failed me yet. I'd try a couple test pieces before going for your large of a project. If you use an airbrush you should get a water separator & charcoal filter even with an airbrush pump. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00397N8NW/ref=asc_df_B00397N8NW5356420/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00397N8NW&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167129414796&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7093087796298115687&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033474&hvtargid=pla-304225103747

If you pm me an email address I can send you a diagram that may help. It's too large to download here. LT Blue/Red is inst lights.

West Coast Classic Cougars Mustangs has the rebuilt with zerk fitting. They also have a good you tube video on changing the hinge pin without removing the door. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/69zhinge-right.html?attribs=88 Also has the rebuild kit with zerk fitting for 2 hinges. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/69zhinge-right.html?attribs=88

Thanks for all the replies my question was do you need to remove the reluctor to change the curve, I have the answer now you do. It is a 76 Duraspark II with a steel gear on it.

I posted this on VMF this morning. I've looked all around can't seem to find a good answer on how to re-curve a Duraspark II dizzy.I believe all you need to do is remove the reluctor to get at the springs is that correct?This setup will be:1) Duraspark II 76 I think with steel gear.2) GM Ignition Control Module mounted on a 3"x4"x3/8" heat sink.3) MSD or Accel 12volt 45,000 to 50,000 Coil.Any suggestions would be appreciated.

PM sent about MSD Blaster 2

Instead of trying to explain how & why you need to cc your heads here's a good article to read. Mondello has been building engines since the 60's he's done at least 50 sets for me when I used Keith Black to build our nitro engines. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-0611-cylinder-head-volumes/

Mach 1 Thanks for posting this great info, I need to redo the wiring for mine that the original owner did.

Have you given any thought to buying some originals I see them on C/L and at swap meets. Spend the money to have them restored I know 2 people here that specialize in wheel restoration I'm sure there's someone near you.

Someone is either selling a cheaper wheel ie Jegs, Summit to make any profit or making up for it somehow. $340 shipping is what it costs calculate it with the UPS calculator. Good luck hope you find what you want.

I have seen them mounted on a 68 but not off the car where I could see how they're manufactured. The chrome plating is excellent up close. All the Cragars I've owned the center cap has a round plate going through a machined bore that bolts to the cap. I doubt the Mustang centers will fit but there's always a way to machine them to fit Tooooo many choices out there..

Any chance you have a speed shop near you or car clubs maybe someone has the Cragars mounted you could look at maybe even Discount Tires or a large wheel distributor. Give Cragar a call they may be able to locate someone local. I'm kinda prejudice towards Cragar they supplied all the wheels on our race cars, tow rigs & trailers after plenty of abuse & 100,000's of miles never had a failure with any of their wheels plus free wheels as long as our cars & trailers had large Cragar lettering. Did have a few destroyed flipping funny cars at 200 mph. I liked their 500 style the wife liked the Vintage SS Chrome style so that's what we have.

Cragar makes a nice made in the USA wheel goto the Vintage Style 2 different wheels 510 Magnum & 32 Keystone. The quality of Cragar is 2nd to none I have some SS wheels dated 1971 that still look new. They are warrantied for life for any structural failure for life. https://www.cragarwheel.com/wheels https://www.cragarwheel.com/#!visualizer&year=1969&make=Ford&model=Mustang&submodel=1135&go=1&body=1&tab=wheels&page=1&color=7927&wheel=5001&wheelimage=15844

Welcome, I just sent some 69-70 Mustang parts there dam shipping is expensive.

Thanks for posting excellent video I just found it this morning. Getting ready in the future just ordered some of the parts to restore my cluster & get rid of some garbage wiring from the PO.

Great timing I was just making a material list to build one similar to this. I'm making it lightweight with 1-1/4" PCV tubing the 3 way corner connectors will be drilled with cotter keys with 1 or 2 roof rods for rigidity , the door will be heavy clear with magnets to hold them closed, fan end will be heavy clear with a small frame for fan. Just picked up a 3 piece heated water separator/filter (1 heater, 1 separator. 1 charcoal filter cartridge). I'll take some pics this spring when I get it together.

Autozone has Duraspark 5.0L A1 Cardone Vacuum Advance Dizzy's for $12.95 if anyone needs one they probably won't last long.https://www.autozone.com/external-en..._276700_0_3498

Autozone has Duraspark 85 gt on sale for $13.00 https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/distributor/cardone-reman-distributor/121442_276700_0_3498

DON'T USE STRAIGHT KINKED HOSE YOU'LL REGRET IT. When the heater core was replaced on my 69 351w with factory air we used this one instead of waiting for a repro. You might as well replace the heater bypass valve while your doing it. I think CJ's & many others have repros also. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/gates-3728/belts-hoses-16454/radiator-hose-16540/bypass-hose-11354/gates-bypass-hose/20662/4327335/1969/ford/mustang Here's some more. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/belts-hoses-16454/radiator-hose-16540/bypass-hose-11354/1969/ford/mustang

I will admit I didn't do the replacement myself a buddy that owns a restoration shop specializing in Concours Vintage Mustang & Cougars did mine while I helped & learned. I have a 69 with factory air there is no way to replace the heater core without the removal of the dash if it could be done folks would do it. Even if you could several of the clips holding the heater box together aren't accessible. After the box is out be very careful with it they are 50 years old & replacements cost top dollar. Yep you do need to remove the lines & plates in the engine compartment. The clips holding it together need to be removed carefully by pressure with your finger pressing them in to release the tension then removing them, if you use a screwdriver or pliers there's a good chance you'll break the box they're very brittle. Warning ( in the 50's thru 80's they made these boxes out of what looks like fiberglass layups they're not ) heater boxes & fan shrouds are made of a combination of materials they can contain as much as 50% asbestos. I have a book from our attorneys when my father died of Mesothelioma quite a few parts on classics have asbestos in them even the carpet whenever removing old carpet spray it down with water before ripping it out or cutting it.

Why would you add 1 extra qt for a high volume pump?

Sold

I don't know which it is I've seen both & can't tell them apart unless they're side by side.