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Bob & Sue

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Posts posted by Bob & Sue

  3. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, barnett468 said:

     

    The can't accurately determine what the best setting is . It needs to be set for each individual engine.

    Never heard of a 1/2 vacuum port.

    Ok you got me I meant the Timed Spark Vacuum Port it puts out zero to 7 vacuum at idle.

    I was referring to what Pertronix recommended for my setup on the timing & springs. 

    Here's a good site on Ford timing curve setup.

    http://jimsprojectgarage.weebly.com/timing-and-advance-curves.html

     

  4. Posted · Report reply

    7 hours ago, RPM said:

    After googling it, I knew what the timing curve was but not that they called it that. I'll check it tomorrow.

    From what I've found my initial timing is set at 10* at 2500 rpm it's at 35* with no vacuum advance, My springs are to weak I'm going to change to a stiffer set of springs Pertronix recommends 12* at 1000 & 24* at 3000. I'm also using the 1/2 vacuum port off the carb, 

    As far as setting the floats mine runs the best at mid point in the windows per Holley spec.

    I'd check the accelerator pump adjustment also if it's not making contact at the touch of the throttle it can give ya a hesitation. Make sure there's .015 clearance at wide open throttle ask me why I have a new diaphragm. 

    Be glad you weren't on a Harley I drove through a small swarm on my old chopper 30 years ago doing 70 mph on I-5.  Dug about 10 half bodies out of my neck & face with a couple getting inside my right sleeve dam near lost control of the bike. 

  5. Posted · Report reply

    You might want to put a vacuum gauge on it to set the low idle jets, don't do it by rpm's it's not accurate enough, be sure your on a high vacuum port it will take several try's to get the highest vacuum reading. 

    Might want to check your butterflies to see if there closing all the way and the air slot is lined up.

    I need to go through mine again just put a new thick aluminum gasket on, if your running the thin paper gasket that can also cause trouble they tend to leak. 

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I had a Sea Ray 270 Sundancer the best sealer you can use is 3M 4000 Marine Sealer it's not hard to remove and won't leak or shrink and will hold up to heat and movement. Not to bad to remove just use a heat gun to warm it up first. I did four portlights ( windows ) on the boat five years ago with it it still looked like it was just done when we sold it last fall.

    DO NOT GET THE 3M 5000 OR 5200 FROM HD YOU'LL NEVER BE ABLE TO REMOVE WITHOUT HOURS OF WORK.

    https://www.amazon.com/3M-Hybrid-Adhesive-Sealant-Multiple/dp/B00VFIQNUC

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I have my doors apart right now to re-glue the windows ( fun job ), put all new weather stripping and belt lines on both sides there is just a small portion of surface rust inside the front portion of the passenger door the driver door has no rust. On the inside of both doors I'm airbrushing them with Rust Bullet RBA53 Automotive Rust Inhibitor Paint also doing the trunk. I've used this product on several cars and patio furniture it works never had any rust return. I think both products the Master Series Silver & RBA53 are similar in properties and results.

    The PO didn't lie the car is a one family car from California that has been garaged since new with no rust anywhere.

    https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Bullet-Automotive-Inhibitor-Metallic/dp/B0002P3IJ8 

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Great spot for it after I install the new carpet I'll build a similar one. I'm building a carpeted trunk liner with extra thick sound deaden-er those rivet nuts work great I'll lose some trunk space but it will clean looking and easy to disassemble if needed  to get to the gas tank or wiring, 

     

    Putting an extinguisher in the trunk is a disaster if you need it, trying to open the trunk while the flames get bigger.  

  9. Posted · Report reply

    You hear lots of tales about stuff that went on at Shelby, stuff off the books and such. I really wonder about the validity of some in 1968, as Ford took over production. Shelby was a wild card, but Ford was a little more straight laced.

     

    The reason we could only lease the 2 1968 GT500 with 427's was Shelby wanted full control of the 26 he produced. When both of these cars were wrecked & totaled by the insurance company he made them crush the cars, we were told he didn't want any salvage titles associated with his name. Ford states some 3 dozen were made I was told when we leased them that 26 were made.

     

    From Ford Racing History:

     

    But the 390 was just too slow-revving and mild-mannered for the serious Ford horsepower buffs. And even though Carroll Shelby was offering Ford's 428 cubic-inch "Police Interceptor" big-block in his upmarket GT500 Mustang model, the motoring press still wasn’t that impressed when compared to the big-motored Chevies, Pontiacs and Mopars. So later that model year, Shelby reportedly decided to go all-out and build some three dozen GT500s with Ford's premier race engine underhood – the 427 big-block.

     

    Carroll Shelby was less involved in the design of the ’69 model, and a combination of slower sales and creative differences caused the Shelby-Ford partnership to end in the summer of 1969. Leftover ‘69s were sold as ‘70s, and Shelby only produced his special brand of Mustangs per the request of a Belgian Shelby dealer for the next two years. These ’71 and ’72 models were known as “Shelby Europas†and were exclusive to Europe.

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  11. Posted · Report reply

    That process has been developed thru the years it does work if your putting a lot of stress on race engines, for a street car I might do the trans, rear end gears and brakes. That's a lot of great parts you could buy for the cost of having it done.

     

    The biggest benefit is finish machining say your doing 80 pistons & rods the tolerances are easier to maintain means less time balancing and sorting out sets of 8. 

     

    We did a similar process with our race engine blocks, heads and crankshafts when we had enough spare parts didn't have the budgets of today's race teams. We would either leave them out all winter or put them in a big chest freezer during the summer after dipping them several times in water for 3-4 months then do all the finish machining. Not sure if it made a difference we seemed to blow up just as many treated that way as new parts of the shelf.

  12. Posted · Report reply

     That's why you saw a handful of 427s in 68 in applications like the Cougar GTE (switching from solid lifter to hydraulic lifter cams in the process) and mid year the CJ 428 arrived, which took over the 427s primary duties. The main difference between the 68 Shelby GT500 and GT500KR was switching over form the 428 Police Interceptor to the CJ version.

     

     

     

     

     

    In 1968 Shelby also produced 26 GT500 with 427's in them 2 had automatics 1 was Green with white stripes 1 was White.with blue stripes 

     

    I leased the Green GT500 427 Automatic it was a lease Shelby wouldn't allow them to be sold a friend of mine leased the White one. Both cars were in wrecks near Alki Beach in West Seattle 2 months apart. The insurance companies totaled both cars, they went to a crusher in June of 1969.

     

    The green one had the rear end lock up on a windy road doing about 70 mph spun several times hitting 2 parked cars and a pole.

     

    The white one had a drunk driver hit it head on on Hi-way 99 both cars were doing around 60 mph

    RPM reacted to this

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I've been looking at maybe getting an old glove door and have a piece of 1" starboard CNC machined to hold at least 2 angled gauges similar to the ashtray pod with it fitting in the door on a radius-ed flange to screw into the door it would only have about 1/2" exposed. The glove box is a useless size anyway. Just need to find out when I can get some machine time to do it.

     

    For now I ordered an ashtray pod along with all new weatherstripping & belt lines yesterday that should keep me busy for awhile.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Here's a link to Ford explaining the history and progression of those engines, debunking a lot of myths about the 427. As I remember it the 426 Chrysler Hemi dominated Nascar Ford wanted the 427 to beat the hemis, Chrysler & Ford argued about the 426 cu in limit with a rule change being made to allow Ford to have a 1 cu in larger engine. The 427's were first built as race engines in 1963.

     

    This explains it all

     

    http://performance.ford.com/enthusiasts/newsroom/2016/01/the-_factory-427-mustang-myth.html

     

    Some good info on the 427 SOHC Funny Car's & dragsters.

    I raced Tasca Fords 427 SOHC Mustang in 1968 at Irwindale Raceway he beat me by about 2 car lengths.

     

    http://www.hotrod.com/articles/birth-of-the-flip-top/

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Just replaced my heater core the condenser didn't look near as bad as yours all that was done while waiting on some other parts was straighten out some fins then left it pressurized for 48 hours had no leaks so I used the old one. Be sure to change the diaphragms while it's apart. I also found out you need to use the preformed hose S shaped hose that connects from the diaphragm on the manifold to the heater core if you use straight hose it will kink causing your heater core to fail. 

     

    California Mustang has them in stock so does WCCC or Cascade Classic Cougars & Mustangs and NPD has the best price.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for all the replies just looked at California Mustangs catalog it does say gives you the appearance of a Shelby pod. I'm going to order one the place where the gauges are mounted is useless. Does anyone know of a better way to mount a couple gauges in a 69 with air there's not many places to locate them. 

     

    I did do a search of this site figured it had been discussed before but came up with no results. That's one of my peeves about about forums especially boats they put something like "where can I buy this" in the title a good description makes it easy to find already discussed topics.

    Rant OVER.

    RPM reacted to this

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I need to mount my after market oil pressure & water temp gauges in a different location I can't hardly see them where there mounted.

    I was getting ready to order a Shelby style 2 Gauge Cluster that fits in the ashtray on the console. Did some research found out there's a big difference in the repros. I have factory air so there's not much room California Mustang sells an OEM style has anyone installed one? Where did you buy it and how did it fit any problems?

     

     

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  21. Posted · Report reply

    Some interesting stuff here.  I am using the NAPA SAE 30R7 3/8" Fuel Injection Hose on my car.  Using California 90 whatever gas and any bodies guess what it's made of ?  Before I bought a replacement fuel pump I did ask their ' TECH ' site a question.  I did buy the fuel pump and have not had any problems with either.  Brian

     

    All fuel hoses and carbs should be inspected to make sure they are compatible with ethanol blends it's just a matter of when they will fail not if.

     

    The other problem is water separation & loss of octane on boats we ran inline water separators, After my first plugged water separator I had to drain the tank 50 gallons of gas lucky it wasn't full. Then I put 5 gallons of non ethanol gas in it to flush the system it took 3 filters before there was no evidence of water in the tank

    A good way to test your fuel tank is to drain about a quart of gas into a clear container from the tank or if you can from the fuel line going to the carb let it sit for an hour if there's water in your system you'll see a clear line of water below the fuel where it separates.  

     

    Here's a great link to locate most ethanol free gas locations. I just filled my Cad ATS with it yesterday. 

     

    http://www.pure-gas.org/

  22. Posted · Report reply

    I dealt with this problem trying to find the right hose for our boat, John Deere and Stihl equipment the only hose I've found that is compatible with ethanol is made out of nitrile rubber like the link above. Stihl had to recall 3 units I own 1 kombi set and 2 chain saws the ethanol would warp the gas cap several people had them leak catching on fire.

     

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac-80080?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-dayco&gclid=CKjd7NPWydICFYlrfgodK5IK1A

     

    Stabil does nothing that deals with this problem all the stabilizers work in similar ways they encapsulate the moisture so it can be run through the engine when separation occurs with ethanol gas, I try to use ethanol free in the Mustang and John Deere ethanol separation starts in about 2 weeks if your gas is 93 octane it could be 1 month old at the station leave it in your car for a couple months and your running about 84 octane gas.

     

    Here's a good article on it.

     

    http://www.lcbamarketing.com/phase_separation_in_ethanol_blen.htm

  25. Posted · Report reply

    The rubber window stop will prob split removing it, don't buy the one on CJs for the 69, buy the pair for a 70. The 69's are to short

     

    Thanks for the advice & tip will order the 70 stop if I need to re-glue the windows. Will probably buy the weather-strip kit and belt line kit from California Mustang.

     

    If you don’t have one of their catalogs I’d recommend getting one it has a great index with a complete almost manual like break down of all their items, much easier than thumbing through NPD or CJ’s. Some of their parts cost more but they have quality parts.

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