ProgonMom

This is not my car but looked like a good angle to submit.
 
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/photopost/data/500/medium/P10100087.JPG
 
The new mustang ruby red metallic color is what I'm debating on for paint
http://s835.photobucket.com/user/kn7671/media/2014%20Mustang%20GT/6e74a9382ac88e2b22e4cdbfb31dedac.jpg.html
 
http://themustangsource.com/forums/attachments/f831/142802d1374973853-rick57-ruby-red-130727_0001.jpg
 
Considering these wheels
 
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/hr99charcoalbrakelo.jpg
 
Or these
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/showroomhr99.jpg
 
 
With black interior and black top.
 
Let me know how I go about getting an image it's just hard to visualize what it will look like once it comes together
 
Thank you

Hi guys. This is my first post, but I've followed thus website for a long time.
I couldn't find any how to wrap these things, I could only find what material to use so I figured I'd post this and hopefully help someone. Below is a before and after.


 
 
Things you'll need:
3m "di-noc" (marine teak matched my origianl 69 woodgrain)
Sharp razor blades
Scissors
Blow dryer or heat gun (be careful with the heat gun)
 
Okay let's get started. So my original woodgrain was old, sun bleached and bubbling. So it's time to replace.
 
 
Step 1: removing old woodgrain
Picture 1

To remove the old woodgrain I just used a grinder with sanding disk. Just took it all the way down to the metal, you can go hard on it just make sure you smooth it all out at the end, if you leave gouges or chunks left on there it'll show through your new woodgrain.
 
Step 2: sealing the metal to preserve
Picture 2

I sprayed a layer of primer and some black enamel on mine just to seal in the wood and make sure the metal will last if moisture gets under the woodgrain
 
Step 3: applying new woodgrain
Picture 3

Now this stuff is pretty forgiving, make sure you let the material get to AT LEAST room temperature so it's workable.
Cut material to about the size of the panel leaving at least half and inch to one inch overhang. This will be used to make a solid woodgrain that will not peel off easily once finished.
I found that by removing all of the wax paper and starting from the top, setting the material onto the piece. And begin working downwards while pressing out most creases. Because the panels are concave you have to work the paper down, one thing I learned was this stuff is very workable. Specially if you have ever someone using the blow drying on medium heat or heat gun on low about 2 feet away. It'll get very soft and workable. Once you notice it geto soft get heat off of it immediately or you risk burning it. Once warmed up it'll stick very easily and once stuck it'll cool into a solid hold so try and get it as close as possible, once you work it all the way down you can use the heat again very lightly and press out wrinkles. You can use a credit card or your fingers. Just leave the paper dangling off the edges like picture 3
 
Step 4: folding over the edge
Picture 4

In picture 4 you can see how to cut the corners into a fan so you get a smooth corner and no boxy points sticking out. Take your time and go around folding it back. When completely wrapped around the back heat up the back to get a solid hold from the adhesive.
 
Step 5: cutting holes
Picture 5

In picture 5 you want to cut a plus sign in the middle of the circle. Make sure to leave at least a half inch from the edge so it'll cover the inset. Cut a circle out of the center. (Picture 6)

next, This part requires heating the material and pushing it inwards, it may come undone due to tension, that's okay just try to push all the way around the circle, flip the panel over and fan the edges and fold over, heat again to solidify the adhesive.
 
Pretty much for anything you can figure it out from there. I hope you understood all of this, lots of info, some thing that a video would be better but I didn't record myself doing this.

I rolled my new project out of the storage lot, and took it home to start bringing it back to life. I bought the car back in January of this year, and have been gathering parts in order to make it a reality instead of an idea.


This is a true Graber Special, Marti report and all, also know as a "poor mans" Boss 302. This one had a 302 2v, auto, manual drum, and power steering. I told my Wife when I bought it, that I purchaced a rolling roof with a title. She had not seen it since its purchace and was questioning my sanity after rolling it off the trailer. I have started with worse, and at least this project is fairly well "rust free" (ha-ha). It will stay Grabber Green, but the build will be a G-Machine theme. I am waiting on Street and Track to come out with their new rear suspension later this year, to see what they come up with. 

I am going to try out Dynacorn sheet metal on this build, and see if it fits any better than some of the other ti-chen stampings offered by other vendors. The full quarters look good out of the box, hope they don't require a bunch of fitting (cutting in half, beating, re building,ect...). Been there, done that. I did go ahead and get the Goodmark mini tubed inner fenders to use, I could have widened some regular ones, which would have been cheeper in the long run.

I would like to be able to build these cars on a regular basis, so this one is going to be sort of an extream advertisment. I am not going to jump into a business venture quite yet, but ease into it, if it works. Playing with rusty old cars has been part of my life, and I enjoy most every aspect of it. Well see where it goes.
The only part of the build I have not decided on is to build it as a 1970, or 69ish Boss 302? I have always wanted a G coded 69, and could make one, just not so sure yet. Any way, here are a couple of pics as I dig into what is left of this body, and this is the way I bought it, less work for me? My Wife is still wondering...
 
 

None of my gauges have ever worked and I have not messed with them at all.  I have aftermarket temp, oil and amp gauges where the radio used to be.  But I'd like to get the cluster working.  I haven't pulled the cluster out yet, but I am thinking of pulling it and refurbishing it in the basement over the winter.  
 
Is it possible to test the gauges with the cluster out of the car?  Be nice to have it all done with working gauges before spring.
 
thanks

Probably a better and more appropriate place to put this here in the forums but I could not find it. Still, I'm just curious as to how many here are the original owners of their 69/70 Mach. If so, tell us your story....purchase history; how old you were at purchase; why a Mach over anything else of that era; how you were able to keep the car all these years and what you've done to the car, etc.   

Let's try and keep this going, anything you do to your car, whether it be new brakes, wax or floor mats, share it here! Pictures of the finished product is ok too! Just share away. :)
 
I'll start.
 
Installed a MSD 6AL.

My harness refurbishment business just reached a major milestone: 500 underdash harnesses have been refurbished and sold to customers.  When I started out in March, 2008, I thought that there might be sufficient need to make this a hobby business, defined by the IRS as having no consecutive years of making a profit.  As of 2011, I had to register as a business, as the demand for these services was greater than I originally thought!
 
I started out thinking that the distribution of harnesses by production year would largely reflect two factors: how many Mustangs were built and the cost of reproduction harnesses.  Mustang productions peaked in 65/66, declining all the way through 73.  Reproduction harnesses start out at ~$500 for the earliest years, growing to ~$1000 for 1970.  No reproductions are available for 71-73.  I expected a reasonably flat distribution from 65through 70, with a bit higher demand for the later years.  What actually happened was much different:
 

 
The biggest surprise is that 1969 dominates all other years, accounting for 26% of all of my work.  The next highest year is 66, 67, and 70, each running about 13%.  1968 accounts for about 10%.  I think this data is telling me that 1969 is by far the most popular year Mustang, and that the 71-73 demand is much lower than other years.  We’ll see if this changes over the next few years. 
 
Thanks for reading!

Selling My Raven Black 70 Mach I needs a new home. Car is located in Raleigh NC
Older complete nut and bolt restoration I finished in 2004 that included Paint, interior, suspension, drivetrain, brakes
Original Shaker Hood car with original rear spoiler and rear sport deck fold down.
Car is not a concourse or matching numbers drivetrain. An H code car, triple black from the factory.
Professionally built D9 block 351w stroker, AFR heads, CC Hydraulic roller
Performance Automatic C4
9" 3.70 posi with Shelby underides, Roller Spring perches,  Eccentric Eliminators, Street or Track Adjustable Strut Rods
Disc Brakes with stainless caliper pistons, Drilled and slotted rotors, Braided stainless steel lines.
Marti Report, Loius Eminger invoice, FOMOCO letter, buck tag, Clear title
Must go, kids braces, 4 wisdom teeth and new project cause the bitter sweet sale.
Will need tires
The car is not a trailer queen and priced more than correctly so serious buyers only please.
$27,500