hapedVem

It looks like there are several good options to chose, for going from manual front drum brakes to disc.
 
I'm not too interested in power brakes so I don't need to worry about a booster.
 
that said, are any kits superior than others?  I can't really differentiate what makes one better than another:
 
-chockostang is $700
http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/discbrakepowersteering/discbrakeconversions.html
 
-SSBC is $1100
http://ssbrakes.com/i-10093667-1967-1969-ford-mustang-front-non-power-disc-brake-conversion-kit-a121.html
 
-MustangSteve has parts
-Scott Drake (via CJ pony parts) has a kit as well ($700)
 
why would SSBC's kit be $400 more than chockostang?

My car is not getting power to the rear of the car. And I don't know what happen because it was working until I was putting some bolts back into the lower dash. So the light above in the cabin and the taillight don't get power.

Is anyone using a 14" lecarra wheel? If so, does it block your view of the gauges?
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

Hello everyone! I can't believe I didn't find this forum until now, I notice a few of the members here from my instagram account (@grabherblue69) !
Anyways, it's a little late to post too many picture from the past build - but I'll give you a quick rundown of the history of this car and where it's at now before I start giving incremental updates.
 
This was my father's first car when he was in high school in the late 70's - just a normal fastback with a 351W in it. It was wrecked in the front end and he paid $200 cash for it... Him and his two brothers as well as their father all had fastback mustangs! Later, their father (my grandpa) built a local family shop and the father and the 3 sons have ran it since, however my grandpa is getting pretty old and doesn't do any of the work there anymore. (It's called Ray's Garage.)
 
Back to the car - we care nothing about originality in our family. Dad went through about 6 motors in this car in high school, either blowing them up or wanting more. After the 351, all of them were big block FE motors. Additionally, they bought and sold mustangs all the time and Dad always swapped the parts he liked off of them before they were sold (sorry all of you original car owners out there who are confused as to why the rear sway bar is missing or the wood grain interior!). This thing has all the "'cool stuff" - fold down rear seat, Mach 1 Woodgrain Deluxe Interior, a nice console, a rear sway bar off of a Boss 302, front discs, and so much more. It sat outside for about 10 years before he handed it over to me to start working on, completely rusted out with a 390 that barely ran and tons of problems.
 
The plan: Do whatever you want to it that you like and make it yours.
 
As of now here is a list of what has been done to it:
 
-Lots of new metal - hood, doors, tailgate, taillight panel, and some other minor metal work. 
- Bodywork and paint - Grabber Blue!!! (1970 Color, but like I said, screw originality for this build.) Dad was a bodyman for about 10 years before becoming a full time mechanic - he did the spraying and I did all the bodywork myself. Not perfect at all, simply painted it to be a driver's car. 
- Stereo somewhat in progress - Small sub in the panel that goes to the trunk and new JBL speakers in the front/ rear. Also a kenwood single din headunit up front that doesn't jump out at all. 
- All new interior
                      - Recovered the front deluxe seats but instead of a red mach one stripe I got it done in blue.
                      - 80mil sound deadening throughout the whole floor plus new mass-backed carpet. 
                      - New-ish deluxe woodgrain door panels, much nicer than the ones it had before.
                      - Refinished the console and put in a new dash pad
                      - Lots of other minor details
- Somewhat mild 428 build
                      - Block: Granpda said "You can have whatever that is over there in the corner" - Turns out to be a 428 with a CJ crankshaft and pretty 390GT heads
                      - Bored .40 over, New forged pistons (11ish to 1 compression ratio with the 390gt heads, will be about 10.5:1 or less with Edelbrock heads that I want sometime in the future)
                      - Edelbrock Cam, .572 Intake and Exhaust - Soon to put in new valve springs to go alone with that
                      - Some Edelbrock aluminum intake
                      - Tons of other extras that aren't important enough to note here - plans for small nitrous shot one day.
                    
- "Boss 428" stripes because me and my father both LOVE the Boss 302 reflective stripes for '69, however I felt like it was a shame to have "Boss 302" on the side and then a 428 in it so I got a custom set made up.
- Again, tons of other things that aren't worth noting now. Any questions just ask!
 
Currently has been running and driving for a while now, just not where it needs to be. Lots of work left and will always be an ongoing build. It has an FMX auto in it as well! 

Hey Guys and Gals, has anyone on this forum heard of Cryogenics? I was talking to a machine shop that mentioned they do this for the engines and the tranny shop they use does this treatment for the gears and mainshafts in the trannys they rebuild. This Cryogenic treatment supposedly changes the molecular striucture of the metal by changing Austenite into Martensite by cold tempering the crankshaft or gears or mainshafts for instance which results in 3 things. 1-strengthens the metal, relieves residual stress in the metal and increases resistance to wear. Has anybody tried this or has any experience with this process.It's approximately $350 for a disassembled trans including case or $500 for a disassembled engine including the block. Just wondering if it works? Or if the results are worth it?

Do the shaker and trim ring get painted the same as the hood.

All,
 
As I am coming to the end of the restoration period, and I began to drive the car after 20+ years, I had an experience finding a fuel leak near the carb that kinda freaked me out.  Nothing major, but I had not sufficiently tightened the hose to the fuel filter, and I had gasoline pooling on the intake.
 
It made me realize how easy it would be for all of my work to go up in smoke.  I was lucky the fuel sitting there didn't get hot enough to ignite.  It made me realize, if a fire had happened on a casual drive, I didn't have a plan for how to handle it.  Had that fuel caught, there was very little I could do.  Maybe remove my shirt & hope to smother it? That's hardly a plan.
 
Long story short, I decided I wanted to have a fire extinguisher at the ready.  I did a limited amount of research and decided I wanted it near me, while in the car (available in a crash if required).  Lots of folks attach right in front of the drivers seat.  I decided to try this "bracketeer" mount, and see if I could make it work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015G3QXMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
That thing won't work.  It's very well made, and I can imagine pretty versatile, but not for our cars.  It's also obnoxiously expensive.  Despite it being very made well, $60 is silly for no more tech than is there.  I sent it back for a refund, and decided I would make something on my own. 
 
I bought a steel 2.5in x 1.5in multi-purpose angle piece with many pre-existing holes.  I also got a 1.5in wide x 1/8in thick aluminum bar stock.  Then I got stainless screws/washers/nuts to bolt it together.
 
I cut the angle to the length from outside of one seat frame to the outside of the other.  I notched the 90 degree angle off each end so that the widest side of the angle could be bolted down underneath the seat track (between the seat and the track).  I removed the bolts holding the front of the tracks to the seat, slid the member between the track and seat and passed the track bolts thru the track, then thru the ends of the angle using existing holes, then into the seat, and tightened it down.  this holds the angle very securely, and the steel is thin enough that it doesn't raise the seat noticeably (less than 1/16th) I let the 90deg side of the angle project upwards inside the seat (away from the floor)- there was plenty of volume inside the seat to accommodate it.
 
I then cut two ~7.5in long pieces of the alum bar-stock, bent them in my vise to about 70deg at about 6in from the end and located them appropriately side to side to hold the extinguisher in the correct location.  the bent aluminum is mounted to turn down towards the floor, and the length is just enough so that the bent ends are forward and just clear the raised floor when the seat is moved all the way back. After this, I just mounted the extinguisher mount to it, and put the seat in.
 
I didn't get any pics during the buildup, which I regret, but it is actually a really simple install.  Getting the measurements right and the positioning was the harder part.
 
Attached are some pics of how it looks installed.  Mounting it this way, the extinguisher travels with the seat as the seat is moved fore and aft.  The mount is sufficiently solid, and amazingly, while visually it seems kind of obtrusive and possibly in the way, it really is very much out of the way.  One flip of mount hasp and it is loose - but doesn't fall - and can be retrieved easily with one hand.  it doesn't make getting in or out the car any different at all.
 
I'm actually really happy with the installation, and just wanted to pass it along, in case anyone else wanted to try it.
 
I spent ~$30 on materials and bolts, but I had enough left to make another mount if I wanted, and I bought stainless fasteners.
 
Sorry for all the words above, pictures would have helped so much.  Trying to describe everything using only words just takes a lot more.  Next time I get the seat out, I'll plan to get some good pics and add them.
 

 

 

 
Think about getting your own fire-extinguisher.  It makes a lot of sense - anything can happen.  Hope someone can use this information.
 
Jay

I'm trying to install the lower steering column trim on my '70, but I can't figure out what these metal clips attach to, there doesn't seem to be anything in the area to clip it to. I have a repo instrument bezel, wondering if there's something missing.
Thanks,
Matt

I need to mount my after market oil pressure & water temp gauges in a different location I can't hardly see them where there mounted.
I was getting ready to order a Shelby style 2 Gauge Cluster that fits in the ashtray on the console. Did some research found out there's a big difference in the repros. I have factory air so there's not much room California Mustang sells an OEM style has anyone installed one? Where did you buy it and how did it fit any problems?
 
 

All,
 
I am in the process of collecting the parts for my AOD swap. Can anyone tell me what slot size is needed for the 69 OEM shifter linkage bolt to the transmission arm? I want to use the fully adjustable one from Lokar: 
http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/autotrans-access-parts/accessparts-product-pgs/fordaod-selctarm.html
 
Lokar offers two sizes that would be based on the bolt size from the stock shifter bolt at the transmission. Can anyone tell me which one to use?
ATA-1000 Ford AOD Selector Shaft and Arm 1/4" slot and hole ATA-1001 Ford AOD Selector Shaft and Arm 5/16" slot  

The attached photos in my post just appeared I didn't post them and can't delete them.

 

What's up?

 

http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php/topic/56321-shelby-style-2-gauge-cluster-fits-in-ashtray/

Would anyone know of a good assembly manual for my 70 Mach 1?
Thanks,
Bill

I am looking for a passenger 69 coupe extension with holes for the deluxe molding. Must have no cracks in it.

Bought my first Mustang when I was 17 for $200.  The car was a ’69 hardtop that had been re-painted (badly) neon green with a dark green hood.  Being honest the car was a “beater†but it ran good and with a 302 and  3 speed manual it was fun to drive and always got me where I needed to go (and back). Always liked that car and still have fond memories of it to this day.  Didn’t buy another Mustang for more than 20 years when I bought an ’88 LX with a 5.0 and a 5 speed to use as a donor car on my Factory 5 Cobra build.  Easing into semi-retirement now after a lifetime of Camaros and Corvettes and looking for a ’69 or ’70 Mustang fastback to add to my current stable and give me something new to work on and keep me busy.

Hey Guys, 
 
I want to fix my window rattle and would like to know what part numbers or size screw and threads, I looked inside both doors and I Practically need every nut and screw the holds the window plates, the square washer/screw the goes below the window rail guides. also, I need a set of those window plastic guides... from what I herd, the repos are garbage. 
 
not looking for concourse, but most likely head to a hardware supply store, almost all the screw I have are the incorrect sizes. 
 
also, can any show me how to route the drive side mirror cable? it binds when I try to adjust.
 

I'm converting my 1969 to power brakes and need the Stop Lamp Switch for Power Disc.
 
I can't find it anywhere, does anyone have the correct part number.
Thanks a ton!

So I decided it was time for a change. I let the Mach1 go and picked up a new project, a 74 F100 shortbed with a 390. So off to the truck forums I go.
 
But I couldn't leave without saying goodbye and thanking you guys. This is a great forum and I wish you all the best.
 
Randy.

Today I went to do the switch, but he Borgenson fit was extremely tight. The round part of the gear box rested on top of the frame which caused the alignment holes to off. Eventually I was able to catch a thread on each hole, but had to rotate the tightening of the bolts. After a while the bottom bolt went flush on the frame but the top 2 bolts were out about an 1/8", I had to go back and fourth, tightening the bolts with effort one at a time until the whole unit was flush against the frame.
 
I then saw that the Borgenson steering shaft was off center from my Steering column. There is a little play on my column so I pushed it hard to one side trying to line it up with the Borgenson but it did not center.
 
I think if I loosen the steering column from the firewall that I might be able to get the column to move a little more. (I think that might work, but not sure).
 
When I took the unit back off I can see a cut mark on the frame from the unit being forced on.
 
IMO I actually think the casting material on the Borgenson is built up too much. You can see evidence of that in the pictures.
I'd like to grind it off but the warrentee will be void.
 
I did contact Borgenson and sent some pics. The Rep said it should be an easy bolt in. I'll find out tomorrow.
 
What do you think????

Hello everyone,
  I have a 69 Mustang with a stock 70 351C and C6 transmission. I think the C6 is on its last leg and am considering a AOD swap, or spend ~$1000 on c6 rebuild (beefed up for future rebuild). In the future I am thinking 351W stroker 408 with about ~500 hp so the transmission would need to handle the hp. Or just build the cleveland to ~500 hp, but can decide later as that is a few years away. I see a lot of articles online and in this forum about converting c4 or FMX transmissions to AOD and that there are parts and conversion kits available for such. Also most of these conversion kits are for 289, 302 and 351W. But I cannot find much information or conversion kits for my 70' 351C and C6 to AOD (with 4r70w internals for longevity and increased hp capacity). Can you all knowing owners please point me to some information or list of parts needed for this type of swap. Can I use the 351w parts? What about the yoke and drive shaft?    Thank you,   Sean

I'm looking at getting an aftermarket steering wheel for my '70, I love the looks of the wood wheels, but I think leather is more comfortable. I see most of the aftermarket wheels are 14" where my stock is 15.5". For those of you with aftermarket wheels, do the 14" wheels block your visibility of the factory gauges? I'm 6'0" and it looks like it might be a problem. I'm leaning towards LeCarra, but I'm open to other ideas as well. I have a ginger interior and I'm having a hard time finding leather to match.  
 
If you would also be inclined to post pics as well, I'd appreciate it.
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

From under the dash...without disturbing the dash or instrument panel....

My harness refurbishment business just reached a major milestone: 500 underdash harnesses have been refurbished and sold to customers.  When I started out in March, 2008, I thought that there might be sufficient need to make this a hobby business, defined by the IRS as having no consecutive years of making a profit.  As of 2011, I had to register as a business, as the demand for these services was greater than I originally thought!
 
I started out thinking that the distribution of harnesses by production year would largely reflect two factors: how many Mustangs were built and the cost of reproduction harnesses.  Mustang productions peaked in 65/66, declining all the way through 73.  Reproduction harnesses start out at ~$500 for the earliest years, growing to ~$1000 for 1970.  No reproductions are available for 71-73.  I expected a reasonably flat distribution from 65through 70, with a bit higher demand for the later years.  What actually happened was much different:
 

 
The biggest surprise is that 1969 dominates all other years, accounting for 26% of all of my work.  The next highest year is 66, 67, and 70, each running about 13%.  1968 accounts for about 10%.  I think this data is telling me that 1969 is by far the most popular year Mustang, and that the 71-73 demand is much lower than other years.  We’ll see if this changes over the next few years. 
 
Thanks for reading!

Does anybody have 15x10 Magnum 500s on the back of their Mustang?  If so, any pics and what did you have to do to get them to fit?
 
david
 

Is there anyway to rebuild a factory tach? my tech always seems to jump to 1,000 RPM I have it all tore apart and cant seem to see any place to adjust.

Good evening all, I'm a new member coming over from the Jeep community.
 
I picked up a '69 with a rim blow. The rubber tape and contacts are missing but it has a center horn button w pony/tri-bar in the middle of the foam pad that works. I haven't seen anywhere that there would be both. I'd like to get the rim going but wondering if I could keep the center button working too. It's wired to 2 of the screws behind the pad. Was this factory?
 
Thanks!