bigmal

I think we've been focusing on the spare being in the boot. I have the solution!

I got a couple of spare tires, located just above my belt.  Unfortunately, they are not space savers by any definition...*sigh*
Sorry I can't help you further.

I didn’t even know that pedders sold shocks for our mustangs Mal. That’s good to know. My front springs are pedders and it rides nice. 
I did the shelby drop many years ago and it made a big difference. I just wish I had have welded the plates into the shock towers . Oh well next time . 

For those outstanding drivers who use their high beams in the fog. 
 

I once had a guy ask me why i had mustang script letters on a challenger / my 69 Mach 1

Who ever told you that they didn't make Mustang convertibles in 1969 is just odd and should never be listened to seriously.

Well I completed the Shelby drop and I'm very happy with the outcome. Big improvement in handling and just a poofteenth lower. It was really quite a simple job.
As some background, I rebuilt the front end 5 years ago and replaced everything. After about a year it developed a clunk over bumps which I couldn't locate. This prompted me to do the drop and have a good look for the source of the clunk. It became obvous very quickly. One of the new Scott Drake shocks had failed leaking fluid over the rubbers which destroyed them leaving them metal to metal. As annoyed as I was that new shocks failed I was happy to find my problem.
I bought a new set of Gabriel shocks thinking they were a reasonable brand. As I took one out of the box it wasn't fully extended. As I moved it, it shot the centre out exploding oil everywhere. It filled my eyes, covered everything including the ceiling, cars and colectables. After I realised my eyes didn't hurt, I cleaned myself up and everything else. I complained to the vendor and recieved a full refund and $250 for my trouble. I have since bought Pedders shocks and I'm very happy with them. FYI, I now know Grabiel are cheap Chinese crap and I'll never go near them again.

Air box finished, came out pretty good

What did the police officer say to her navel?
 
 
You're under a vest!
___________________________________________
Why do birds in the northern hemisphere fly south for the winter?
 
 
Walking is much harder.
 
Thank you, Thank you very much!

I made a bracket and mounted the relays above the steering column.  I had to cut the cable ties off to get the slack to move them there. But I'm adding a lot of additional wiring so they had to come off anyway.
Vic fridge is also doing a lot of custom wring changes. Infact I made a riff of his spreadsheet to track my circuit changes.
I'm not sure on the AC. I went with vintage air mostly because Dakota digital has a climate control upgrade for their system.
 

If you are mounting your relays somewhere in the engine compartment, I would suggest using a relay box with fuse slots, or use weather proof relays. Here is what I did....

From what i have seen there is all types of girdles ,some for women and some for men . Skimpy and full body ! The full body is nice but could be a bear to get off !

Ya, that's them.
You didn't confuse me at all bigmal, just pointing out that the 2 inch can be done if ya got the correct parts.

Hi mate, sorry but I may have confused people. I only want to do the 1" drop but with the plate welded in I can't do it. I'm happy to remove the plate and add the conventional shock tower reinforcing plate but just want to make sure it doesn't already have the drop.
I hope the pictures are clear enough to see the issue.
Thanks, Mal

Bigmal I don't have any pics for measurement of my 2 inch drop. I ran a two inch Shelby drop for a while, but you need an upper control arm that has the proper ball joint angle to keep the bj from binding as the oe would do. Me being a crappy driver with no feel couldn't tell the difference between the one and two inch drop. 
Back around Y2K when I was looking into the drop, I think the info I got was from a place called Dr Gas out of Utah that made wedges to angle the ball joint for a drop more than one inch. They said that 69s could handle up to a two inch drop, so more of anything is better, right?
I think I've read somewhere that 1-3/8" is the optimal drop. I've since gone back to the popular one inch drop. 

Dealt with a company that made the wedges out of Sandy Utah. Think, Pro-Motorsports. 
Used them with my b joints in doing a 2 inch drop. 

For what it is worth, here is the 1" drop template I received from Global West. I wrote the measurements all over it, if you want to make your own. The instruction are simple... Bolt it thru you existing upper control arm shack tower holes and drill two 1/4" holes thru the 1/4" holes in the template below the factory holes..

Also attached below are the alignment instructions, if you are using Global West's upper and lower control arms, Strut rods and Eccentric lock-outs... 
1967-1973 Mustang Plus 3 Upper Control Arms # MNR-733  (Sold as a Pair)Global West has engineered an upgraded upper control arm for 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, and 1973 Mustangs; the arm provides additional positive caster by moving the upper ball joint back towards the rear of the car.
This particular kit is used for street and handling applications. (Global West also manufactures a control arm for drag racing / street.)
The new Plus 3 Mustang arms are shipped assembled with billet cross shafts, Del-a-lum bushings and ball joints. The a-arms are black powder coated and the cross shafts are blue zinc (silver). Global West manufactures this product in its own facility here in San Bernardino CA.
Tech Information: Caster
With upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part for proper handling of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown.
The Alignment Adjustment and Limitation:
Caster on 1967-73 Mustangs is adjusted by moving the lower control arm forward via the strut rod. The strut rod is threaded at one end where the rubber bushings reside. By loosening and tightening the jam nuts you can pull the lower arm forward gaining more caster.
This was not an option on 1967-1973 Mustangs. The real limitation on how much caster you can get is mainly based on the rim and tire combination you are planning on running. The larger sizes limit how far you can move the lower arm forward because the tire runs into the lower portion of the front fender when the wheel is turned.
If this occurs, you will have to reduce caster, which is not the best answer. Now with Global West Plus 3 upper arms you will be able to get the caster you need!
Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the desired alignment. 

Coil Springs are stock height #: s-27 performance street with 640 pounds per inch.
Global West has engineered an upgraded upper control arm for 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, and 1973 Mustangs; the arm provides additional positive caster by moving the upper ball joint back towards the rear of the car.
This particular kit is used for street and handling applications. (Global West also manufactures a control arm for drag racing / street.)
The new Plus 3 Mustang arms are shipped assembled with billet cross shafts, Del-a-lum bushings and ball joints. The a-arms are black powder coated and the cross shafts are blue zinc (silver). Global West manufactures this product in its own facility here in San Bernardino CA.
Tech Information: Caster
With upgraded suspension and present tire technology, caster plays an important part for proper handling of the car. Caster does the following: provides straight line stability, has a self centering action on the front suspension, improves initial turn in during cornering and also resists pulling (right hand drift) caused by road crown.
The Alignment Adjustment and Limitation:
Caster on 1967-73 Mustangs is adjusted by moving the lower control arm forward via the strut rod. The strut rod is threaded at one end where the rubber bushings reside. By loosening and tightening the jam nuts you can pull the lower arm forward gaining more caster.
This was not an option on 1967-1973 Mustangs. The real limitation on how much caster you can get is mainly based on the rim and tire combination you are planning on running. The larger sizes limit how far you can move the lower arm forward because the tire runs into the lower portion of the front fender when the wheel is turned.
If this occurs, you will have to reduce caster, which is not the best answer. Now with Global West Plus 3 upper arms you will be able to get the caster you need!
Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the desired alignment.
Note: When using Plus 3 arms, there is now a right and left upper control arm. The original control arms (factory or first generation Global West Negative Roll control arms) are universal.
 
1966-1967-1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-1973-mustang-cougar-fairlane-falcon-ranchero-mustang-eccentric-loc-out-kit-instructions-loc-2.pdf

looks like a home brew version of these:
https://www.npdlink.com/product/reinforcement-plates-shock-tower/199383?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dshock%2Btower%2Breinforcing%2Bplate%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D

Whoa now there Strix, not so fast. Welcome to the forum Mustang brother. Tell us a bit about yourself and your Stang. Ya know, the regular interrogation. Age, where ya live, how long you've owned your 69, what you've done to it, any future mods...Ya, pretty much everything. Oh, and pictures. We love pics. 

Thanks for the introduction RPM. I live in Redding Ca. I have a 1969 mustang coupe, 351w 4v. fmx automatic with factory air, power steering, power brakes. ive had the car for about 15 years (im 30). Im looking into making it into a gt350/traditional front of a 69.

The Borgeson has the same problem with return to center if there is not enough caster.  I have that setup on my '68 Mustang, and I ran out of space in the front wheel well when I tried to dial in the required caster that Borgeson specifies.  On my 1970, with the (+) 3 UCA, that is not an issue.   
Bigmal, to answer your question, I am not sure how much caster the 1" drop adds, or if it adds any caster at all.   
The Boss 302 chassis mod book I attached earlier in this thread shows a 2 degree positive caster with the Shelby drop (Stage II), as opposed to the zero degree shown in Stage I.  Not sure if that is due to the drop, or a required change in the caster to accommodate the revised suspension geometry .  I am sure there are some suspension experts out there that can answer this question.

Hi mate, these are really good articles. Thanks for that.
It appears most people just do thye strait 1" drop. The DazeCars article describes the 'increased Caster' drop as well. Has anyone done this with their 69 and if so, what is the feedback?
With the RRS rack it feels like it does not centre as quickly as it would normally. It still centres but just not great, so thinking of the increased caster with the drop.

Pics of my setup.  I have Viking coil over spring/shock combo with adjustable rebound and damping. This also allowed me to adjust the ride height of the car.   
 

I also used the Gobal West (+)3 UCAs. This will allow you to run large tires up front with more Caster.  I also needed that because the Borgeson steering box needs extra caster.
I used Open Tracker LCAs and their roller idler arm.  High Quality Stuff.
To answer your question, I have attached the Original Ford Boss 302 suspension mod book. The "Stage II" mods include the 1" drop and the shock tower mods.  It also has the caster and camber settings and the ride height.  Hope that helps.
 
BOSS302ChassisMod.pdf

Took a picture today of both son’s cars against the Blue Ridge Mountain backdrop in our back yard. Thought they turned out well!