bigmal

There is a certain direction those clips have to be installed ,if turned  the spring the wrong side up the clip will come out when tightening 

OE clips, or your custom made, clips are the way to go. The clip set I bought from NPD were crap, as they spun in the molding. Double checked the part number to make sure they weren't for the C shaped headlight molding, nope. Ended up using my filthy OE clips I saved. 

Hi all, I recently bought a replacement chrome strip for the front of my bonnet and being after-market rubbish it needed to be pulled in a fair bit at the center. As soon as I pulled it in with the lugs supplied, they pulled straight out of the soft metal. 
I thought I'd share the brackets I made which made life a lot easier and holds it in place nice and tight. I had to use a little bit of silastic to hold them while positioning. If they were 1/16" wider that wouldn't be necessary.

Hi all, I recently bought a replacement chrome strip for the front of my bonnet and being after-market rubbish it needed to be pulled in a fair bit at the center. As soon as I pulled it in with the lugs supplied, they pulled straight out of the soft metal. 
I thought I'd share the brackets I made which made life a lot easier and holds it in place nice and tight. I had to use a little bit of silastic to hold them while positioning. If they were 1/16" wider that wouldn't be necessary.

That deserves an extra cuppla beers tonight bloke

I'd uncork the headers and drive up and down the street. 
 

Two thumbs up for following up your thread with what you've found!

Wonderful news glad u got it figured out. 

Hi Bob, you're correct, it was a previous suggestion. Unfortunately I've had multiple sources of vibration. The rear wheels and tires have been replaced. I have also had the rear wheels balanced three times and was told they were fine. More recently I have been wanting to borrow some wheels to try them out but haven't been able to locate any. Yesterday I used a front wheel but couldn't drive it on the road because the rear wheels won't clear the front guards. Running it on the stands has been avoided more recently because of issues with the neighbors shouting at me. Weird bastards don't like the sweet note of a V8. Yesterday I though I'd ignore them anyway.
While I suspect a tire as well, I'm confident it's the drums holes enabling them to be off center. So new drums coming.

An update on my saga of the vibration. Decided to put a dial indicator on the tail shaft at the front, middle and rear and it is good. 
Ran it again on the stands and definitely speed related, not RPM. Did a runout on the axles, all good. The right hand rear tire seems to be a little out of round. Could be just from sitting. I swapped the RH front and rear and ran on the stands again. NO VIBRATION!!!!!!. 
I was thinking a needed a new tire (BFG 245/55/15) so happy to do that. Turning the wheel by hand it appears the drum is out of round. I had a look at the drum and the bolt holes are larger than the studs so can be installed slightly off center. I replaced the original rear wheel and di my best to keep the drum centered. Did another run on the stands and NO VIBRATION. 
Took it for a drive and its a different car. I will be ordering two new drums and shoes this week. 
I am very happy!!!!

An update on my saga of the vibration. Decided to put a dial indicator on the tail shaft at the front, middle and rear and it is good. 
Ran it again on the stands and definitely speed related, not RPM. Did a runout on the axles, all good. The right hand rear tire seems to be a little out of round. Could be just from sitting. I swapped the RH front and rear and ran on the stands again. NO VIBRATION!!!!!!. 
I was thinking a needed a new tire (BFG 245/55/15) so happy to do that. Turning the wheel by hand it appears the drum is out of round. I had a look at the drum and the bolt holes are larger than the studs so can be installed slightly off center. I replaced the original rear wheel and di my best to keep the drum centered. Did another run on the stands and NO VIBRATION. 
Took it for a drive and its a different car. I will be ordering two new drums and shoes this week. 
I am very happy!!!!

An update on my saga of the vibration. Decided to put a dial indicator on the tail shaft at the front, middle and rear and it is good. 
Ran it again on the stands and definitely speed related, not RPM. Did a runout on the axles, all good. The right hand rear tire seems to be a little out of round. Could be just from sitting. I swapped the RH front and rear and ran on the stands again. NO VIBRATION!!!!!!. 
I was thinking a needed a new tire (BFG 245/55/15) so happy to do that. Turning the wheel by hand it appears the drum is out of round. I had a look at the drum and the bolt holes are larger than the studs so can be installed slightly off center. I replaced the original rear wheel and di my best to keep the drum centered. Did another run on the stands and NO VIBRATION. 
Took it for a drive and its a different car. I will be ordering two new drums and shoes this week. 
I am very happy!!!!

No clue on your headers... but on my cheapo Hedmans I cut the thin flange between the ports to get each port to seal. 

Damn I knew there would have been an easier way. 

the replacement clutch setup that went in last year is operating and holding well now.  i know i'm shifting at 7800+.  i also have the throttle adjusted so it's opening all the way.  just trying to find the right time in the next few weeks to get it to the track.  except for some shock adjustments and removing the tool kit from the back seat, i will track it just as the car is setup for the street.
 

Some more progress photos. Tires that came on the car where dry-rotted. Decided to go up a rim size, 15x8
U.S. Mags Rambler U111 Gunmetal with Machined Lip Wheels 
Rear - P235/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (28.9)
Front - P215/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (26.9)

Today was more of the same. Media blasting and primer on parts. We also let the parts bask in the sun. Tomorrow hopefully we assemble again and get ready to weld. Josh has been doing an awesome job with the primer. Parts are turning out very nice!
 

No; she's a professional archeologist and I'm simply a bum.

Not quite related to the mustang, but sort of. Getting my car trailer ready for some car show future events, installed the second battery and some charging and lighting hardware, also lighting control panel, LED lights all the way around the outside of the trailer and inside. A way to keep my wiring skills up to date. 
 

My replacement hip is back to near normal, and the wife's hip replacement is doing good as well.  So...I guess I need to inform everyone that I'm now back in business!
Thanks for your patience.

Good idea. I've had it on stands and been under it but can't identify where it's from. In the car it feels to be central. When parked and running it in neutral through the rev range the engine is smooth and nothing visible from the shaker. When on the road I can feel it and see the shaker vibrating. I keep feeling like its tailshaft or transmission. Third tailshaft and it's been checked three times (I'm still dubious). I keep getting told that there is nothing in an FMX that could cause the vibration.
While it doesn't feel like it's coming from the rear end I wanted to swap the rear wheels to eliminate them. Unfortunately the rear tires do not clear the front guards so I'm trying to borrow a pair of wheels. It has also been suggested that it could be the rear drums. The problem I have is that trouble shooting like this has me spending money each time. Not like you can easily borrow drums or wheels.

Thanks, it was next to the beach, so not as bad as it looks !
chris 

It's been awhile since I posted anything, I've just been enjoying driving the car. While in winter storage, I decided to install a 1" rear sway bar and "CalTrac like" traction bars from CPP. Becasue I converted to rear disc, the factory style sway bars that mounts to the plate that is bolted to the axle/shock plate will not fit around the calipers. So I went with a CPP sway bar that clamps to the axle housing and bolts to the frame near the rear torque boxes. It also does not interfere with the new traction bars. See the captions with each picture below.

Just can't believe that a converter would be causing vibration going down the road and not at engine riving in neutral but I guess stranger things have happened.
 

I think the torque convertor would manifest in an engine vibration.
I don't know the answer, it sure sounds like a rotating issue but exactly where is the question.