bigmal

Many places sell brake boosters but they are the wrong ones for our cars. There are several videos by West Coast Classic Cougar on the correct boosters and where to get them rebuilt, or you can buy a rebuilt from them. I would recommend a rebuilt over a new one. He discusses the differences here also:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbW_v_DdEuU&t=50s
Here are some resources:
1.    Boosterdeweyexchange.com
 2.    Chockostang is a highly recommended rebuilder of steering components and he recommends: Midwest Remanufacturing
 3.    The old Global West GM recommends: Karps Power Brake Service
 4.    Harmon Classic Brakes

Picked up another one of these things! This one is a 2006 GT with 120,000 miles on it ,black with black and red interior . These kids just keep messing them up and i just happen to have the parts to fix them good as new !already has new brakes all the way around and he just did the full front suspension . He fried the tranny but i just happen to have one here. I have everything to fix it ,even the black paint ...my new stable is growing !
Problem is i have enough parts to build one more ,damn it !

Some more pictures I forgot to post earlier
 

The prize will be a free month's subscription to the forum!

The more I think about the issue, I believe the ammeter gauges were designed to let one know when either the battery or the alternator completely fails, and not for use during normal driving conditions.  It's intent was to act as a gauge equivalent to the alternator indicator lamp: if it deflects, it means something is dreadfully wrong.

I don't know the length off the top of my head.  Each year seems to be different as well. 
This whole problem does not seem to have an easy solution at all.  Basically, one is measuring the difference in voltage across an approximately 2-3 foot section of #12 or #10 gauge wire, whose resistance is on the order of 0.05 ohms or so.  Corrosion at contact points are well above this level.  Unfortunately, this is not a precision system.  Attempts to make the ammeter respond in a more aggressive manner by adding extra length wires between alternator and battery (starter solenoid) is asking for reliability degradation as well. 

A couple of beers will do that every time!

Yeah us Yanks are very zen

Here it is in schematic form- you can actually see what its doing here:

Hey Mal, yours actually moves? ;)
What we call an ammeter is actually a galvanometer, and yes it can be made to work a little better. Since it passes such a small amount of current you need to clean the connections at the "ammeter", at the flex circuit plug, at the firewall plug, and at the solenoid. Use something like Brasso in the areas marked in red.
For a big improvement others have lengthened shunt wire 38A. I've heard different lengths, but adding 22" of the same gauge wire would be a starting point. They all work the same way but the harnesses change from year to year and I've not heard of someone actually doing it to a 69. What they are doing is increasing the resistance of the shunt so that more current flows through the meter instead of around it through the shunt (in blue).
Other than that you would need to change it to a voltmeter as you mentioned, but I don't know of one that says "volts". I kinda remember them saying "alternator" but its early morning here and I don't want to wake people up.

Hey Folks!
Just jumping on this thread before the next bandwidth collapse to show my appreciation and HUGE tip-of-the-hat to Jim and these astounding quality interior panels he's made!  My set showed up in perfect order with a new set a hockey stick trim and they all fit perfectly!  SO much better quality than the old factory parts!  Thanks for (another) awesome set of parts Jim!

Update on this bump steer. Borgeson stated they had not found an issue in all their installs. They did suggest to pull the pitman arm and see if any paint was preventing it form sitting higher up on the sector shaft, which was going to be plan B.
Whilst thinking about the steering I pulled the sump to fix the rear main seal leak. Half a tube (literally) of Dow Corning black silicone later it was back on. It don't leak so far, fingers crossed. Looked up and the p/s pump had a weep from the pressure hose. Reefed on that fitting to tighten it.
Whilst under there I had a look at the tie rod ends. Found out that I had been supplied 1969 items, not 70 which may not have helped the steering issue. I replaced them with new 1970 ones.
I thought I'd try another shop for a wheel alignment, so I went to one recommended by another Stang owner, which luckily was 20  minutes away. An hour later, the new shop had pretty much dialled out the problem. It's not *perfect* but it is much better than it was. I'm glad that is sorted.
Last, found a helpful person on the Holley Sniper forum, who gave me some tips and provided a new configuration file. The PCV valve was the older flapper style so I spent 28 bucks on Amazon getting a fixed orifice one, and plumbed it into the front vacuum port of the Sniper. The oil breather cap was also puking oil out when I gave it a Big Rev, so I replaced it with a Cleveland (uurrgghh) style cap with the hose into the air cleaner. It still leaks, but only slightly.
The new tune was pretty wild - lit up the rears in first and second on power, and rolling in second it would light them up at will. (I had some fun with a sports bike behind me, showing him the side stripe at will). Not really practicable but, so I pulled the timing back a bit which has toned it down. But I miss the sideways action so I might stick a couple of degree's more timing back in (insert evil emoji here). But it sounds alright I think.

IMG_0523.MOV After all that, I finally washed it after 10 months of shop dust got to me, and hit with a random DA polisher and some Poor Boys EXP paint sealant. It's a good looking car from 10 feet but the paint is crud and I have managed to put all sorts of chips and marks in the paint. Lucky I prefer drivers not show queens.

Hey guys a bot hit the site and I had tech support take care of it.  The donation amount is busted and always shows that amount.  Currently the ads don't cover the costs anymore.  It's close but not quite there.   So anything you donate will sit in the PayPal account to pay the bill.  I'm currently in the process of moving and other big life changes (Fiancee), which is why it took so long to take care of this.  Sorry for the delay.  
 
I'll monitor the Bandwidth this month and see of a plan upgrade is necessary. 
Thanks for your patience 

Im sure everyone here wouldn't mind $5-10 bucks a year to help out with the costs. 

Made me panic again. I was afraid it may not come back.

Made me panic again. I was afraid it may not come back.

This is what I do for customers who want this modification:
I first cut the pink resistor wire right at the back side of the ignition switch, fold it over on itself and slip a piece of heatshrink on it.
I then cut the pink resistor wire before the firewall grommet (inside of the passenger compartment), fold it over, and heatshrink it.  There are now two folded over pink resistor wire segments before the grommet.
 
I then splice into the green/red wire coming from the ignition switch (same pin as the cut pink wire) and tie it into the brown wire that goes through the firewall grommet.  That brown wire shares the pink resistor wire at the engine gauge feed plug past the grommet that lies in the engine compartment.  Everything will look stock where people can see things.  Take the wire that normally goes to the + side of the coil and use that for either the coil or electronic ignition that requires +12V in the RUN key position.
 
I've also spliced in male/female bullet plugs behind the ignition switch and before the firewall grommet so that one can use either the pink resistor wire or the bypass wire.
 
Don't bother trying to completely remove the pink resistor wire, as it is embedded deeply into the underdash harness, requiring removal of a lot of tape and then taping things back up. 
Hope this helps.

Well, things happen to a 55 year old car.  This occurred on my '68, but directly applicable to '69 and '70.
I was installing LED headlights on my '68 coupe, and went to adjust them, and noticed that the adjuster screw heads were stripped.  I attempted a small vise grip slow turn, but the result was the plastic insert in the headlight adjusting screw retainer came out.  Oh-oh...   Reinstalling them properly means removing the bumper and headlight bucket.  Not going to happen, as my headlight buckets are very happy where they are with the as-new paint from 15 years ago.
I did some digging around in my hardware bin and came across these license plate mounting screw inserts.  Very close in size.  I tried one and it fit in the hole but was too wide in one direction to properly seat.  So, a pair of diagonal cutters solved this, and resulted in enough clearance to place the insert in the hole cleanly.
I had a fine thread tap that was close to the thread pattern of the headlight adjuster screw.  I tried to tap the insert, and was somewhat successful, but got the threads started at least.  I removed the screw, installed the insert, and it works like a charm.   I used some really nice original screws I had in my headlight hardware container, after an overnight dip in Evap-O-Rust.
Lesson learned is to install new adjusters screws and inserts before you install the headlight buckets.    
The LED headlights work great, they are so bright, and also have an original type lens look.  
Pics below.

Modified my plate with sections of pipe to clear. 3" all the way out.

The orange body book shows item number "B" as D0ZB168746 which is a "Type 8" moulding retainer.  That is shown on page 248 of the AMK fastener book.
Item "C" is show in the body book as part number 384102 S100, which is a hex acorn nut, shown on page 214 of the AMK fastener book.

Ridge has a great point about the direction that the spring clip is facing.  The body book shows the spring facing up so it gets more compressed when you tighten it.  Bending it out a little is a good idea.  
The repro '70 hood mouldings are not all consistent. I just examined 2 cars that are Concours level with NOS trim, and there is a difference for sure from what we all can get as a Re-Pop.
 

More problems than solutions today. I have 4 issues currently and it's doing my head in.
1. Leaking rear main seal. I used a Scott Drake Boss 302 pan and pickup and didn't think it sealed the rear main real well. It was OK when first started as the oil was new, now it has some miles on it the black stuff is showing. I'm going to hit it with a tube of Dow Corning black silicone which sets firm and is flexible. 
2. Bump steer. This one might be self-induced due to an installation issue. While I'm addressing this, I'll drop the oil pan. Don't you love 2-for-1 deals?
3. Leaking headers. Pulled them off 3 times, cut the flange between the ports, used 2 gaskets, still chuffing. Wound up the bolts as tight as I wanted to risk my alloy head threads. Plan A is to give them to the old guy up the road to try and mill the faces flat, as there is at least a 1/16" warp on them. Plan B is to buy FPA ones costing $1,250 for ceramic. The exchange rate for us is 68 cents in the dollar, so that is $1,850 and doesn't include freight or local taxes. Do I really want to spend 2 big ones on pipes??? Plan C is not yet announced.
4. The Holley Sniper. Man, they don't tell you the whole story on the box. "self learning" is actually just the fuel side. While you can control timing of the MSD through the Sniper software, you have to develop a timing map to suit your engine. Otherwise, it drives like a turd with no low down power and a power band a 500cc GP bike would be jealous of. Ask me how I know this. So, I now have to become a tuner, which defeats the purpose of buying this in the first place - I wanted a system that I could bolt on, click a few options and drive happily off into the Sunset. And back again. My first effort sucked, no power off idle and a giant lunge at about 2,000. My second attempt was better, much cleaner power delivery but missing a whole lot when under 2,000 in 4th gear. This thing has a 3.50 gear and little 15" wheels, so it's not unhappy doing that previously. With the old motor and no timing control I could not fault the system and thought it was the best thing. I guess with all things hot rodding you gotta have pain for gain.
I'm going to work on 1, 2 and 3 then address 4. I just can't drive with chuf chuf chuf going on.
 

Decided to finally get around to do a little paint correction, the car had scratches, swirls, and blue and red marks around the car. I washed and clay bared the car then decided to try the Mequiar's DA Microfiber two step detailer. (Correction Compound D300  &  Finishing Wax D301). I have read good things about it, and it produces low dust residue when removing the compound. The only thing I did not like was how hard the compound was to buff off. Overall, I liked the product, and the results. 
 

I’m glad you figured it out mate. It’s  been a nightmare that’s for sure. You have patience. It’s a 5 year thread. 

Remember ,the nut tightens to the right so if the clip is in wrong the clip will pop out when tightened