bigmal

The best place to start would probably be a set of Shop Manuals and (Osborne) Assembly Manuals. There is no interior assembly manual for 1969 but the 1970 is very close.
https://www.npdlink.com/search/products?search_terms=interior%2BAssembly%2Bmanual&top_parent=200001&year=1970

You might want to look at a build thread.  @BuckeyeDemon has one here that is about as detailed as any
.  If you go over to the vintage-mustang.com and look for my build thread (user name kblagron), I cover it in a good bit of detail as well for a 1970 with fold down seats.

I have been looking for a shaker assembly for my 2005 Gt for a couple of years now. Every one  I find is either for the wrong year or missing mounting parts. Last night I spotted one on market place and contacted they guy ,he had just posted it ! Went and looked at it this morning and bought it. Complete assembly with mounting ,all the drain hoses and all the mounting brackets ,also had the full factory air cleaner assembly he threw in . He also had the hood with all the trim ring . 
I can't decide what car to put it on ,the red Gt I would have to paint the new hood and no guarantee it would match ,or the black Gt that I am getting ready to paint so I would have no problem with paint matching  .got it all for 800 ,the shaker part is quite a bit mor than 800 but I can never find them in stock ,the hood already cut out is also a big plus !

Lots to report this time round viewers, so grab a beer (not Bud Lite) and settle down.
Mission tailpipe complete. 2.5" from the mufflers back. Whilst it has reduced the noise inside the car, there is still a drone at around 2,000 - 2,500 which is right at suburban drive speeds but it is improved. I can now hear the radio at a sensible level not thumping like before. The man also tweaked the LH pipe from the header to the X pipe as I had managed to sit that too high and it was hitting the frame. But the worst part part my expensive new FPA headers had a pinhole at the merge collector. 
Then we decided to move states. So, the car needs to go 800 miles away and not bust, overheat, or be bad. I had a few chores I knew that needed to be done, so these started getting ticked off;
Replacing the front springs. Our go-to company down here is King Springs and I had a set of front springs in it from our local small caer, a Ford Cortina. Whilst the spring rate is the same as the V8 Mustang, they were an inch shorter. So sexy to look at with the tyre just touching the guard but it was too low. I kept scraping the pipes on roll overs, and one time it was so bad it tweaked the already-tweaked LH pipe even more. So, I bought a pair of springs and inch higher and chucked them in. Plenty of clearance but for me it sits too high. This is on the to-do list with a later chore at the rear. A by-proudct of this was the wjheel alignment was out - badly - so that was on the plans too.
The brakes had never been great - I could never get the emergency brake (we call it a 'handbrake') to hold the car, and it also held still on hills, and I suspected I had goofed with the booster/master cylinder clearance. I bought one of them 20 buck H shaped tools off ebay and oulled the master. I needed to turn the adjustment screw about 8 times, so it was well out. Now, the handbrake holds it, it don't have an auto-hill-holder and the brakes aren't hot from a 10 minute drive.
The tengine emperature on this had been gradually creeping up. It did run pretty well at 82° with the expected spikes at stops, but it started sitting at 86-87° and higher. I initially put it down to the crazy timing and hotter weather. The fix, I thought, was in buying some big-ass CFM fans, so I splashed out on some SPAL 12" puller fans rated at 1,480CFM, better than the ~1,100 CFM I had on there.  
I also thought to make up an actual shroud, as they were just fitted using some alloy angle to hold them top and bottom, then bolted to the rear sides of the core. Simple but effective. I bought a sheet of 4mm alloy and cut out 12" holes in it, mounted the fans to it and then bolted the whole thing back ont he radiator. Bit of black paint and it looked pro. Cost of $75 bucks all done.
One quite warm day I set off for an hour drive in peak hour traffic to get a wheel alignment. On the way it got pretty hot - about 90° - and I had fans cutting out. Not great but I got it there.
The wheel alignment resulted in a few things;
1. The $240 quote went to $440 without explanation. They did spend 4 hours on it, they have made it drive 1,000% better but sticker shock hit hard.
2. Borgeson conversions in Mustangs are crap. Earlier in the piece I discussed my issues with bump steer after the conversion and these guys confirmed it. The pitman arm sits too high when the box is installed, which I suspected as the drag link was not level. They had done a few Chev conversions, a Mopar facebook post rated them highly but for our cars the recipe ain't right. They did say they had seen elongated the bolt holes in the frame to fix them but not a great fix.
So, I decided that I ought to rebuild the original steering box and ram, as I had a specialist in the next suburb and when we move the costs wil increase with freight. no surprise on this car, the steering box was NFG. What I think is the ball nut had broken and the guy told me I was lucky it didn't jam stuck. Eeek I drove the POS for 4 years like that. Luckily he mahaed to find another, so now I have a rebuilt box and ram to go back in at some stage.
It was on the short drive to pick up the steering stuff that the temperature went bad. Near on boiled, the fans were constantly running and the circuit got so hot it tripped a 70 amp circuit breaker I had installed and near melted the 2 30 amp relays in the circuit. So, I removed the full-width shroud thinking possibly air flow was being restricted. No change. Another 70 hucks for relays and 50 amp auto circuit breakers, for just in case they were tripping too.
Put back the 2 alloy angles holding the fans - I had to buy more material, 40 bucks thanks - but no change. Still hot, wouldn't cool down. This was strange as the SPAL fans pulled 250+ CFM more than the old ones and they did keep it somewhat under control.
So, next was remove the cheesecloth filter sock that was in the top hose. It was slightly clogged but not blocked. No change.
Last - the thermostat. Some of you may have already gone there in your mind but I was being methodical. And it was a new high flow unit installed with the new lump 12 months ago. Reefed it out, dropped it into a pot of boiling water. Nothing. Nix. Nada. No movement at the station there. Freakin POS cost me over 200 bucks in parts, time, stress and hassle.
15 bucks and a day later I had a new standard 82° thermostat installed. Took it for a spin just now, temp runs steady, fans pull it down from 84° to 82° in about 3 minutes.
The Sniper stumble issue was getting to me so I took matters into my own hands and increased the cold fuel compensation up 50% to around 160° (F) and this has improved it an amount but it may need some more. I'm not comfortable playing with that kinda tuning stuff which is why I put up with it for so long.
Last, I have massive axle tramp issues. So bad, the diff pinion is making a notch in the trans tunnel. Maier 4.5 leaf springs aren't available form shops here, so I've bought a pair of Scott Drake 4.5 leaf mid eyes on the recommendation of my favourite Mustang shop they will fix the problem. They'll go into the container to be shipped to the new joint and I'll put them in later. Depends on who you ask they either raise or lower the car. Duh, I hate the interwebs sometimes.
I have lots of photos but I'm getting an error message so can't load them.

Let’s. Hope for a great new year. This has been a tough year for my wife. 
chemo treatments keep her spirits down.
pray for all that need help
thanks.     Print dAd

My car saw a few changes in 2024. Miles driven? 550 miles with no failures or tow trucks. I did put a full set of Koni hydraulic adjustable shocks on.  Replacing the 12 year old KYB's. No noticeable change in ride or performance. I did put a couple hundred miles on the recently acquired and restored C9AF-M carb. Love that carb. Easy starts, great idle and the vacuum secondaries all preform as they should. Mileage is 6-8 mpg.  Also got a Z Ray crossmember w/jack pad. Easy install and gives me that added oil pan clearance that I was needing.  While the car is doing what it is supposed to, I still found a way to spend time and money on it.  Hope some of you guys find the time to do some motoring with your cars. Thanks to the guys that are giving it their best to keep this site going. Best wish's for the next year. Brian

While the spam is frustrating, I can scroll past. As a technophobe I struggle with the way pictures have to be posted. 

While the spam is frustrating, I can scroll past. As a technophobe I struggle with the way pictures have to be posted. 

It doesn't help that we have an absentee owner who insists on approving everything.

It is really sad to see all the spam. If it wasn't for the spam there wouldn't be much activity at all . Sure wish there was something we could do to stop it. The ability to post pics, the way we use to, would be nice too.

It turns out the battery will not hold a charge, so I need to get a new battery. It is going to wait until after Christmas. I hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving.

I found a link to these very informative posts on VMF, but the actual posts were on allfordmustangs.com. I have added a previous post by the same author and it is now 9 pages long. He talks about what the ammeter is and how to improve it's sensitivity. Since I plan to switch to Dakota Digital retro tech, I have no need to make the modification, but for those of you that want to actually have a useful (or working) ammeter you will definitely find the attached Word file useful. Kudos to Ivy66GT who went to all the trouble to figure this out.
 
 
Ford ammeters 2.docx

@RPM we thank you for purging the site of the spam. I would help if I had the power to delete spam.

Sound clip with cutouts open...
 

My new plate arrived! 

We have seen many versions of how to do this over the years. I have compiled as much of that information into one document as possible, covering 1965-70.
Every year except 66 has two types of charging systems; one with an ammeter, and one with an alternator charging light. The 66 only has an ammeter.
In this document there are two charging system wire diagrams for every type; the first diagram shows the stock wiring with a 1G alternator. The second diagram shows the 3G alternator and the new wiring. This way you can compare the two and make sure you get it right.
Most forums don't allow uploading of large files, so I parked several useful documents on Google Drive. Using the link below, you have free access to all the documents in this directory: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing
Look for “3G Alternator swap onto a classic Mustang”
The document is 18 pages, and I would have included the “Contents” page below IF PICTURES WORKED.

Ahhhh...the well known (to some!) problem of 1969/70 gauges not working when replacing a circuit card.  The gauges first pass through a small rectangular hole, then a cardboard rectangular piece fits over the two posts onto the metal housing, then the circuit card, then the two nuts which hold everything together.  The problem?  Any one of the gauges' posts can contact the metal housing without you seeing it, shorting all of the oil, water, and fuel gauges to ground, as they are all tied together with the CVR output.  The ammeter is separate and MUST not touch the housing, as it will cause a dead short to either of the two hot and non-fused wires.
How to test?  Unsnap the battery snaps on the CVR and measure the resistance from any post of the oil/fuel/water gauges to the metal housing.  You'll either see something very close to 0 ohms or 14 ohms, depending upon which post is shorted.  How to fix?  Loosen each gauge up, reposition, and retighten.  Test again.  This is a PITA as you don't know which gauge is shorting.  Better solution is to remove the circuit card, then the cardboard insulated pad, and line each rectangular hole with black electrical tape.  Put everything back together and you should be good to go.

With my rebuild I used a 1 1/8 front and 3/4 rear as well as Shelby Drop. I found at high speed it oversteered a lot. Removed the rear bar and really happy with the result.

Sway Bars are easily found at your local pubs after drinking heavily...

With my rebuild I used a 1 1/8 front and 3/4 rear as well as Shelby Drop. I found at high speed it oversteered a lot. Removed the rear bar and really happy with the result.

Oh really? 


 
 

Grammar Police says that should be "Here Here"

HEAR HEAR!

A request has been sent to Ben, the site owner. We'll keep you posted on any news.

This from RPM:
Just found out that on another site I visit when the option to post pics doesn't work, the site owner let the photo posting option expire, and monies are due.
 
I know its darn near impossible to get the site owner's attention, but maybe the best approach is to have have our moderators Bob and Phil each send emails to Ben? I'm sure it wouldn't be appreciated if we publicly revealed his email address.
Could we have a show of hands please- Who Wants The Pictures Back? With enough support I'm sure that the money issue can be resolved. BTW, from a users standpoint it appears that the spamming/scamming/phishing is much improved- is that really the case, or are you moderators still really busy keeping it cleaned up? How would having the ability to post pictures again impact that issue? I think we all know that it is possible to post pictures here if they are hosted on another site, but that puts an unwanted burden on the picture poster by adding time, money, and inconvenience to the experience.