bigmal

Thanks for that. I have factory air so need to retain the vents. I wasn't aware that you could get the panel without the vent holes but even so, my budget doesn't extend to buying another dash as a donor.

Hi Jet, thanks for that. Where I will be cutting has the minimum curve. I really have no other option. From my measurements I think it will be fine.

End of Day 26. When I bought the firewall I also bought a replacement panel that goes between the firwall and shock tower that gives more clearence for the steering. I beleive it is for a 68 and the 69 is different. The anchor nuts for the 69 bonnet hinge are lower and there is a rebate for clearence at the top. No big deal but had to cut this part of the old panel in. About 4 hours all up. Have now fitted the RH engine bay panels. Made the mounting points for the steering column which was amazingly simple. Able to use one of the existing dash anchor points to start from. Now starting on swapping the dash panel over. After a lot of pondering I have marked where I need to cut and weld. I will need to refinish the panel that has a vinyl type finish. At this stage I am planning on using VHT Wrinkle finish but open to any other suggestions. Once this is done it's all down hill.

End of days 24 and 25. (Although not real long days). Finished modifying th eHeater/Aircond box to fit on th eother side. Have given it a test run and it fits and runs. Have now finishd modifying the firewall and it's weled in place. Now I'm starting to get excited.. I can see some progress.

End of days 22 and 23. Got the wiper motor sorted. Now doing the final fitting of the aircond/heater box and mirroring the internals. Once this is sorted I can weld in the firewall.

That's a great look. I am assuming it wasn't from a pressure pack can

It's a little far for me to offer.

I always use projects like this to upgarde my tooling. Got a really nice TIG welder and a new 3 cylinder compressor this time. Not to mention all the smaller stuff. A reasonable 180 to 200 amp MIG welder is not that expensive and if you have someone to teach you how to use it it's not too hard to pick up. With some projects I've bought equipment on EBay and sold it at the end. Sometimes making a profit along the way.

I have been following the thread and storing the info away in my mental rollerdex for later. Some good info. Is anyone using an airflow switch to turn off the fan when there is enough forward speed to cool without a fan? Aircraft use switches like this for various applications including recording flight time and activating undercarriage etc.

If you are in Australia I have this section of firewall you can have.

This will be very helpful. Looking forward to seeing the completed schematics.

I found it took me around 12 long days to get it stripped and the new parts welded in. Allow a 2 days to paint the area and probably would take another 3 days to put it back together. I'm sure those who have done it before could do it quicker. I would hate to be paying the labor for this. As for sprucing things up there is not a lot of cost with paint for the engine and accessories but it all takes time. Got to say I'm loving every minute of it.

You will definately need to take out the engine an trany. The service manual I have has very limited measurements. Basically across the front chaisis rail so not much help. If your car is strait just take lots of measurements before you start. And I am by no means an expert. This is my first time working on a Stang so learning as I go. I found the more I took out the more I wanted to spruce it up. A good opportunity to paint everything and fix the little bits of rust I didn't know about.

Hi 1BAD351 I am in the middle of modifying my Mach 1 to right hand drive with some chasis rust repairs. I changed both torque boxes, both sets of seat frame rails and the RH from chasis rail. I had no issue with doing it on stands although the front became very light. I had to drain the fuel tank part way through as it kept lifting. Had a few scares here. Before I cut out the sections I made up some jigs which attached to the steering and engine mount points. In hind site I would have also made one across the top of the shock towers as well. If I was doing both front chasis rails I would do them one at a time using the jigs as it made it simple to keep the alignment. I bought one piece torque boxes but cannot see how they could possibly be fitted without separating them. Buy two piece. Don't forget to check that all anchor nuts are welded in place before fitting the replacement parts. I missed a few and it was a little tricky fitting them later. Also check your torque box has the guide fitted for the park brake cable. If you have a look at my thread on: there are photos of what I did with these parts. All in all not too hard a job if you're handy with a tig and have a few weeks to spare.

Definately staying positive. Now it's winter it's hard to go to the garage after work. Too bloody cold. I'm limiting my work to weekends and intend on taking the last two weeks of July off and hope to have it finished. I miss driving it and can't wait to see how it is with the suspension/steering upgrades and new exhaust.

End of Day 21. Got to spend Sunday on it. Firewall is back out so it looks like I'm going backwards.Have been working on fitting the aircond. A bit of rework needed as I am using the original bulky aircond/heater. The sad thing is all the work I spent on the wipers at the beginning is back to square one as I need to move the motor outboard due clearence needed for the aircond box. Not a big deal but will take a little fiddling.

Very nice.

I removed my windscreen about 4 weeks ago. I was nervous about chipping the glass so used whipper snipper plastic cable and two small pieces of dowel so it helped save my hands. This worked a treat and did not hurt the paint or glass. A word of advice. The black crap gets everywhere. I wore disposable gloves but should have worn disposable clothes. Once on my cloths it got on the leather couch and inside my shoes. I was not popular.

End of day 20. My long service leave is over and back to work on Monday so the project is going to slow down. Had a win today. Modified the sump and now have adequate clearence from the steering rack. Did a little on the aircond installation. Will take a fair bit of modification to the firwall and above. Hopefully not too difficult.

End of days 18 and 19. Hit a big issue. The sump is hard against the steering rack. I pulled the engine out and attached the trany hoping the trany mount would lift the rear of the engine enough. Made no difference. Engine is back out again and the sump off. Looks like there is enough room to modify the sump to give me an extra 3/4". Hopefully this is enough. That's a job for tomorrow. A waste of 2 days.

End of day 17. Working on reversing the aircond/heater. Swapping the heater evaporator inside the box. Need to fill the old holes and swap the shafts around on all the flappers. Not too difficult but takes time. Picked up a new master cylinder of an XB Falcon. Fits well.

End of day 16, Some good progress and some setbacks I need to solve. Fitted the pedal box and found the top section behind the firewall was too low so had to cut out a setion and box it in. Sat the engine in and found the sump is sitting on the rack. Considering the best option for this. Will probably modify the sump to clear. Not sure at this stage how much internal clearence I have to play with as I need to gain about 1/2 to 1". Tried fitting the brake booster and it's about an inch too long and hits the shock tower. Off the the parts shop in the morning to pick up a shorter unit. Still getting a warm fuzzy feeling seeing the engine in, even though it will come out again.

Hi Shaun, thanks for the tip but I have finished converting the existing one. Pretty happy with how it turned out although may have been quicker to go with one of your suggestions.

End of days 14 and 15. Only one week of leave left. Definately won't be on the road by the end of next week but I'm very happy with the progress. Spent a bit of time modifying the RH torque box to include the park brake cable feed. Also had to cut holes in the seat frame rail for the park brake cable. Worth the extra time. Started fiting the RRS rack. Very happy with the quality of this. All fits easily. Have modified the steering column to take the new internals and universals. Can't wait to see how it drives. Have found some rust in the front window suround. I shouldn't have removed the bog. Another days work to fix it but it can't be ignored.

Moving the park brake to the right was one of the easier jobs. I had to go into the torque box today and weld in a guide for the cable. Glad I hadn't welded the top part of the box in yet.