bigmal

Very nice work

These Russian Hackers won't help.

Try running with the gas cap open/off. This will eliminate fuel tank venting as the cause.

Very cool

Definitely interested in these!

As someone who was chasing a vibration for almost 7 years I learnt that for me it was multiple sources. Makes if very hard to troubleshoot. I changed lots of things, sometimes more than once, and found each of the following made and improvement. Full engine balance Rebuilt tail shaft (3 times). Each timer it was out of true. Bent axles Rear Drums badly corroded. (I know this is odd, but it made a difference) Pinion Angles. For me 0deg difference did not work. Had to be 2 deg down at the front of the diff. I experimented with 1, 2, 3 and 4 deg shims until I got the best results. I have to be very careful bolting on the Magnum 500s to ensure I tighten the nuts in sequence, a little at a time or I will get a vibration. The holes appear worn. Will be replacing. While I still have a very minor vibration, it is almost completely gone.

Looks great

Thanks mate

Many thanks for this. I will give it a go

Hi all, I am sure this has been discussed before. My ammeter movers only very slightly and would probably need a vernier to measure it. Is there any mod so it indicates more substantially? I have been looking at the Voltmeter conversions by Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations which look good, but for the 69 it is still labelled Amps. If converted to a Voltmeter I would prefer it to say Volts. Is anyone aware of a Voltmeter conversion that refaces the gauge to Volts? Thanks, Mal

Thanks God you're back! I just emailed Midlife to see if he had heard anything. The Aussie forums are too negative. This is so much better

Could you send me the PayPal details and what a typical donation is. I'd like to contribute. Thanks,

Made me panic again. I was afraid it may not come back.

Thanks mate. This makes sense. I had an issue with the crappy reproduction needing to be pulled in around 1/2" in the middle so it had quite a bit of load and bent the back of the strips. With the pieces I made it pulled the strip in and holds it flat. Probably should have massaged the strip so it's the correct shape, but I was afraid of kinking it.

Hi all, I recently bought a replacement chrome strip for the front of my bonnet and being after-market rubbish it needed to be pulled in a fair bit at the center. As soon as I pulled it in with the lugs supplied, they pulled straight out of the soft metal. I thought I'd share the brackets I made which made life a lot easier and holds it in place nice and tight. I had to use a little bit of silastic to hold them while positioning. If they were 1/16" wider that wouldn't be necessary.

Hi Bob, you're correct, it was a previous suggestion. Unfortunately I've had multiple sources of vibration. The rear wheels and tires have been replaced. I have also had the rear wheels balanced three times and was told they were fine. More recently I have been wanting to borrow some wheels to try them out but haven't been able to locate any. Yesterday I used a front wheel but couldn't drive it on the road because the rear wheels won't clear the front guards. Running it on the stands has been avoided more recently because of issues with the neighbors shouting at me. Weird bastards don't like the sweet note of a V8. Yesterday I though I'd ignore them anyway. While I suspect a tire as well, I'm confident it's the drums holes enabling them to be off center. So new drums coming.

An update on my saga of the vibration. Decided to put a dial indicator on the tail shaft at the front, middle and rear and it is good. Ran it again on the stands and definitely speed related, not RPM. Did a runout on the axles, all good. The right hand rear tire seems to be a little out of round. Could be just from sitting. I swapped the RH front and rear and ran on the stands again. NO VIBRATION!!!!!!. I was thinking a needed a new tire (BFG 245/55/15) so happy to do that. Turning the wheel by hand it appears the drum is out of round. I had a look at the drum and the bolt holes are larger than the studs so can be installed slightly off center. I replaced the original rear wheel and di my best to keep the drum centered. Did another run on the stands and NO VIBRATION. Took it for a drive and its a different car. I will be ordering two new drums and shoes this week. I am very happy!!!!

Great news mate

I'm not seeing any comments about damaging the front shocks from over-extension. Is that not an issue? If not, I've been unnecessarily careful. Thanks

Good idea. I've had it on stands and been under it but can't identify where it's from. In the car it feels to be central. When parked and running it in neutral through the rev range the engine is smooth and nothing visible from the shaker. When on the road I can feel it and see the shaker vibrating. I keep feeling like its tailshaft or transmission. Third tailshaft and it's been checked three times (I'm still dubious). I keep getting told that there is nothing in an FMX that could cause the vibration. While it doesn't feel like it's coming from the rear end I wanted to swap the rear wheels to eliminate them. Unfortunately the rear tires do not clear the front guards so I'm trying to borrow a pair of wheels. It has also been suggested that it could be the rear drums. The problem I have is that trouble shooting like this has me spending money each time. Not like you can easily borrow drums or wheels.

That's beautiful. Can't believe you parked it in the dirt :) Well done

It was there before I did the conversion, but nothing was changed as far as alignment goes. Using standard mounts, but all replaced.

I'm not seeing muffler or exhaust. Have changed mufflers and fitted headers and no change. It is definitely a lot better than when I started chasing it. I think most passengers wouldn't notice unless you pointed it out, but I can definitely tell.

I used an LED set and cut the wire to the outer light and used that for the blinker. Works well and was surprisingly easy.

I'm definitely thinking of taking the tailshaft to another place to get it checked. It doesn't feel like wheels, but I am going to swap front to rear when I can get motivated. Hopefully the 8" 245s will fit on the front. I've used a large T square on the axles and there is no alignment issue with the axle housing. Applying brakes doesn't change it and placing in neutral doesn't change it. Stright line or slight bends on the highway is the same. As I have found so many small things causing vibration and I'm getting close, I'm definitely thinking something already replaced during troubleshooting may still be the problem. It feels like center of the car. I keep feeling like tailshaft but as its the third I'm not confident. When I overhauled the engine and damaged the flex plate by doing a dumb ass thing during transmission installation, I am wondering if I've possibly damaged the new torque converter. Is that possible?