bigmal

No, that's something I haven't checked. The yoke appears to be in good nick and I've replaced the seal so there are no leaks, but I haven't checked for a worn bushing. That is new territory for me. Is it easily replaced? I'm getting a little excited....

Hi mate, I am using a digital protractor and I set zero on the front pulley. Then when I take it to the rear pinion it is also zero. Makes it a little simpler then using maths :) Yes, using wedge shims. I have 4 sizes 1, 2, 3 and 4 deg. I didn't know what tolerance was acceptable so used trial and error.

Thinking of you mate. We've got similar issues down hear. Its no fun but can't last forever.

Mine too

Hi mate, that's some very helpful information. I have tried shimming the pinion up and down 1, 2, 3 and 4 degrees. 3 deg up has the least vibration and a 0 degrees difference between the diff and transmission angle. The amount of pitch up with the engine under load is something I was wondering about. As I have shifted to neutral at the speed where the vibration is at its worst, the diff is not under load and the vibration is unchanged at that speed. It also shows that as the engine has dropped to idle, the major vibration is somewhere rear of the torque converter. What troubles me most is that I may have eliminated parts as the cause by replacing them and the new parts may still be an issue. First replacement tailshaft was bodgy, so a new one fitted. I thought I'd found the culprit, but no noticeable difference.

Hi mate, by 0 deg I meant that the difference between the diff angle and the engine front pully is 0. The Pinion angles are adjusted with 3deg shims so there is 0 deg split. I tried shims at 1, 2, 3 and 4 up and down. 3deg up has reduced the vibration to the best yet but still there.

Standard 18oz external, but the internals were balanced on a machine while stripped. As I have replaced the flex plate since then, so I may be looking at another strip. While laying awake in the middle of the night I've been trying to come up with a way to balance the flex plate in situ. I was thinking of placing small tire weights on the plate and repositioning them by trial and error. Unfortunately there is not enough room through the bottom plate. Another thought was to remove the transmission and attach the bell housing and use the same method. If I can get rid of the vibration with this method I could then drill holes opposite. Anyone tried this? Or am I off the mark? Or just bite the bullet with another strip and balance? Noting that the major vibration is not the engine, its somewhere rear of the torque converter.

Thanks for the updates. As I asked the question I had a horrible feeling I wouldn't like the answer. Happy he's just busy. Now just to entice him back!

Thanks mate. New tail shaft, universals and pinion angles adjusted to 0 deg.

I hope he's okay. I've been offline for a while and just returning. Work didn't like me using their computer for social media. I now have my computer set up next to the work computer for days I work from home.

Well guys, I reported the vibration was gone after rebuilding the engine. Well, it seems that my vibrations have been from multiple sources and still not fixed., although it now appears to be driveline related. 351 Cleveland, FMX, 9" 3.25 Traction Lock. Driving is relatively smooth up to about 55/60 mph. Then starts at 65. At 70 mph it is the worst. By 75/80 the vibration is gone. Vibration starts as constant then as speed increases becomes a surging vibration. When placed in neutral and engine reduced to idle, the vibration doesn't change. Vibration is also visible with the shaker. So far to date I've done the following: Replaced harmonic balancer, Rebuilt engine and balanced. I damaged the flex plate on installation and replaced with a new 28oz plate which has not been balanced with the engine (this troubles me), Run with belts off, Engine appears to be running well with no miss or roughness, Replaced torque converter, There is still a slight engine vibration, but not unacceptable. This may be from replacing the flex plate after rebuilding. I will be stripping and balancing again. New wheels and tires. balanced to lugs (3 times). Tail shaft replaced in early trouble shooting. Took that one to get checked for balance and found bent 1/8", ends not strait and significantly out of balance. New shaft fitted. I really thought I had it this time. no noticeable change :( New front and rear universals fitted. Checked and installed correctly. Diff pinion had slight damage to universal mount. New pinion fitted. New front and rear engine mounts. Pinion angles adjusted with 3deg shims so 0deg split. Tested at 1, 2, 3 and 4 up and down. 3deg up has reduced the vibration to the best yet but still there. Axles appear straight. Wheels would wobble if bent. I had the FMX serviced a few years ago and was told it was making metal and on its last legs. I have done about 2000 miles since then and appears to be shifting fine with no odd noises. This is really doing my head in, and I need to get it sorted before I move to body and paint. Has anyone experienced this sort of vibration and it was caused by the FMX? I know nothing about the internals of automatics, but I fear I am about to learn.

Hi all, a few years back I bought a remote boot opener from Danno and need another. I messaged him a few weeks back, but no response. Is he still an active member? Thanks

Looks like just about everyone has experienced this the first time the touch the circuit board. The electrical tape looks like a great idea. No idea why it isn't insulated in the first place.

That's some serious work there

I've been chasing ths problem for years. I first fitted a fuel shutoff valve which is only open with power on. (Also for anti theft). This made no difference. I've now added an electric pump at the tank. Strangely it is still difficult to start after a couple of weeks. Maybe time for EFI :)

Thanks for this. Some great tips

Very nice

I got mine off eBay for $20.89. Came from China of course. Listed as '2PCS Stainless Cup Drinking Holder' I used a fly cutter very carfully and a dramel at the end.

Thats for the electric mirrors. One of the threads on this site showed how to fit the mirror motors from an E95 mustang. A great mod. The swith is from an Australian AU Falcon.

I also added cup holders to my 69 consul. I used the wood insert from a 70 without the seat belt hole

I have a 3/4 rear bar and not really happy with the way it's set up. Instead of loops at the end of the bar that the bolt and rubbers go in to, it has a strait bar that a rubber bush clamps around. You slide the bush further it to make it stiffer. I was reversing around a very uneven driveway and heard a bang. The rubber had come off the end of the bar. A very poor set up. I will take your advice and try with the bar off. I may consider a thinner bar with the loop ends as well. Thanks Bob

Thanks for this. Very helpful.

Hi all, Happy new year. Hope you all had a great Christmas break. My 69 is basically stock suspension. 1 1/8" and 3/4" sway bars. Better shocks and Shelby drop. I was recently driving pretty quick off the highway exit and noticed the rear wanted to be in the front. Nothing major as I corrected it before it was an issue. It felt a lot like the tires were flexing. BFG 245/60/15 at 30PSI. I am thinking of making/fitting a Panhard rod. Could I have some feeback on individual experince with these. Is there a noticeable difference in handling/cornering? Thanks, Mal.

Merry Christmas everyone, from down under