rapedVem

Well here is the best rolling shot of the Rally IMHO...Guy was literally hanging out of the photo car on the pass side taking rolling shots..dude was about 4-6" from his knuckles drabbing the ground doing 70mph...makes for cool photos tho...hes printing me up a canvas and poster

Need to get new lcas, whose brand is the best.
One of mine has a rust hole. small one too.
Got Moog or Scott Drake down here.

Any recommendations for a place to get leaf springs? have a 69 limited edition 600 with a 302ci V8. also looking for a carburetor. thanks in advance

I need the 2 vinyl top mouldings that go from the quarter panel to the rear window. I have the 2 bigger pieces that go along the quarter window. If you have a 4 piece set I will pay top dollar for it. Please contact me at dmitchsales@gmail.com with pic and price. Thanks

Hi Everyone,
 
Does anyone have a pic of an electric vacuum pump setup on a big block.  Right now I'm running 6 psi at idle.   I have the FE 390 stroked to 445 with 11-1 compression.  The power disc brakes need more vacuum to get to work properly.  Thanks Mark 

Hey all,
 
My engine has started making some dreaded knocking noises which I am fairly sure has to do with worn bearings(Crank/Connecting Rod). I have previously taken the oil pan off and know there is more play than there should be in some of the connecting rod bearings. We purchased another car just in time for this one start to break down so I can actually work on the mustang and not worry about how I'll get anywhere thankfully. 
 
I am looking at doing a rebuild of my bone stock 302 small block. I have 2.5" exhaust with a C4 behind the engine. currently it has a 2bbl intake and carb, but will probably upgrade that. The car is mostly just for crusing and I am slowly working on things.
It was "rebuilt" when I bought it, though clearly not very well. when I bought the thing I didn't know enough to realize how bad it was done. 
While I am rebuilding the engine I would like to possibly add a little more budget performance. I am looking to stay in the $900 range for the rebuild not including any machine work that may need to be done due to the failures in the engine. 
Specifically, what are your thoughts on boring it out?
I have just started looking into rebuild kits and different components so any advice/suggestions are appreciated! 
 
Thank you!

I have Bigs (4150) 950 Stage 5 carb and think it is too big. No bog or anything just not as responsive as it should be.  It has been tuned with an innovate.  I am thinking either a Quick Fuel 750 with MS or a 780 with VS. I also want a choke. Here is my application. 

Street warrior 
1970 Mustang Mach1 (likely around 3500 lbs with a full tank and me in it)
6200 RPM Max 
418W
AFR 205's
10.5:1 compression
Lightweight forged rotating assembly
Custom roller cam split duration @0,50, intake 219 exhaust 239
Mildly ported and flow balanced performer RPM intake
TKO 5 speed 3.27:1 first gear
3:50 rear 

Recommendations from carb experts requested!  
Alan

I'm planning on getting the 428 water pump rebuild kit from dead nuts. Does anyone know how these Bearings come apart? Also, after taking off the back cover, I noticed there is a hairline crack in one of the bolt holes. Should I be worried? My feeling is if I RTV the back cover, it should seal up fine.

Hi Everyone, 
 
I'm trying to figure out the correct speedo gear for my 69.  It seems that I have seen a formula to determine the correct gear but I do not remember where or when I saw.  Listed below is the key information if that helps.
 
FE 390 stroked out to 445ci
 
T-5 transmission
 
3:50 Pos rear end
 
No A/C
 
Weight - approx 3400 pounds
 
Thanks Mark 

Okay so this is a product that we use at work and I recently saw on their website where a guy had restored a car using this stuff, so figured I would post it up and see what everyone thinks.
Here is the link.
 
http://www.zrcworldwide.com/products
 
I am thinking about getting some and using it on the underside of my 66 after I make all metal repair and blast it, but If it would provide additional protection under the paint and body work I wonder if it would be worth doing, and if it would be okay to use under whatever paint I was going to use

Just finishing up a 70 and need blue seatbelts or at least a decent set to get restored...thanks...John

Building a 302 roller engine and after emailing Comp Cams about what I was looking for they suggested I get the 35-430-8.
 
I will be running an 8.8 rear with either 3:55 or 3:73 gears.  Hopefully will be putting a 4R70W in at the same time and will probably use an F150 torque converter which I read somewhere has a 2400 stall.
 
I will be mostly cruising with the car but hoping to get into a little bit of road racing. 
 
I have long tubes, 1.6 roller rocker arms on mostly stock heads (a little porting), and ran a Holley 600 carb in the past.
 
My question is, would the Ford E303 cam be an ok cam?  I am broke right now so looking to get by a little cheaper than the Comp setup and I found an E303 for $100.  I have read quite a bit about the Ford E303 and it seems like it would suffice but wanted more opinions.

Im about to wire up a duraspark module located between the battery and radiator support. The solenoid is a perfect place to get both power wires fed and it's close by. My concern, on the small terminals, if I add an additional nut to secure a ring terminal, the push on connectors are only half on. Being close to the fan they might get blown off, maybe. So in my mind I'm thinking I could take the nuts off the small terminals and put a wire ring eyelet behind it, to save the rest of the stud for the push on connector. Doing so will preserve my good factory harness from cutting and soldering. So will taking these nuts off, mess up anything internally in the solenoid? Or adjustments? Normally with a question like this I'd just peck an old one apart and see but I couldn't find a junk one readily available. Should I try it on my new standard solenoid or look for another solution?

Hi guys,
I bought my 69 Mach 1 out of Tampa a litle over a year ago and it's fitted with a 351C 4V. It has a new Holley carby with electric choke and I am having difficulty identifying it. I have had no luck getting any info from the previous owner.
It has the following numbers on the body - 80457-10 and 2194. My best guess is it is a 600.
Any idears? Also the car sems a little sluggish but maybe I'm too used to modern cars. Is this a big enough carby for the 351C?
Thanks, Mal.

I have a 69 mustang with a cleavor engine using the 351 Windsor block and trick flow cleaveland style 2v heads with hooked super comp headers on it . It is a 4 speed car with stock suspension. My problem is clearance where the stub shafts comes out of the rack and the universe joint attaches. It is impossible to attach these 2 pieces together. Has anybody ran this engine tranny combo and used the unisteer rack and found a header that clears ?

Does anyone have a 351C in their 69' with power steering & a 4 speed? If so, what headers did you use?

Hello, 
 
I have a 1969 fastback and recently I put in a 302 bored .30 over, B cam, roller pedestal rockers, and a Holley carb with the number L6R1B (Not sure on the CFM size, assuming 600) and that is connected to a T5 Ford Racing Transmission and Ford 9" with 3.73 gears. 
 
Sorry for all the information but I am trying to narrow it down since I know all those questions will be asked anyway.
 
The current carburetor is a regular $320 one from Autozone and recently it has been studdering under mid RPM throttle hits. That is not the question that I am wondering, I am wondering what the best carburetor setup would be for this car with the given info and that it is also my daily with mostly city driving and a decent amount of short distance highway. I know this might sound redundant but I want to have the best MPG's and also the most power possible. I would rather sacrifice the MPG part of course. 
 
Thanks to everyone in advance as I am new to the forum but not new to the daily driven classic car struggle!

Okay my friend and I both have 69 Machs with drop coils that have both had a bit cut off of the and Koni shocks.
My buddy began to notice his car was riding very rough in the front end on the pass side, so he pulled the shock out, and it seems to be busted, adjusting the shock makes no difference in the rebound or compression, so it is toast.
 
When we installed the cut coils and shocks on both our cars we noticed that the shocks are compressed a good bit more than what one would normally see from a gas charged shock.
I would estimate that there is only about 1 1/2" of the travel until you bottom the shock out.
 
So this begin said, has anyone ever had to use a shorter shock that would allow the shock to be extended more and give more travel?
 
Just seems that we may be past the safe working range of these stock length shocks

I recently pulled the stock cast iron manifold off the my son's 351W due to an exhaust leak after about 700 miles on rebuild. Gasket had clear evidence of leakage at the #1 cylinder. I am going to take the manifold to a shop and have ground slightly to ensure flatness. Any recommendations on gasket type or potentially additional sealant?
 
Thanks
Rick

Hi,
I want to fit inertia reel seatbelts to the rear of my 69 fastback (Will be engineered). Could I get some advice on how others have mounted the reel at the rear. I have had a look and think I know where would be best but am interested in what others have done.
Thanks, Mal.

Horn isn't working.  Here is what I do know.  Horn will work if I remove the steering wheel and short out the little brushes making contact with the steering wheel.  The steering wheel has the rim blow horn and it makes contact from the rim switch to the screw terminals.  The problem has to be after the screw terminals or the contact of the ring and brushes.  Has anyone had an issue with this before?  I did not check the continuity between the ring and the rim blow screw terminals.  If that's the case, then my entire steering wheel could be shot,
 
Suggestions....

Here's a C/L link with contact info to a fella I bought a couple parts from he will ship if you prepay. Do a google search in parts for sale Seattle Area he has about 20 ads running he does an accurate description with lots of photos.
 
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/5970829578.html

Thinking about getting a plasma cutter ,i have a Hobart picked out that will fit the bill ,just wanted to get some reviews . I will be adding a CNC plasma table soon i hope so i need a cutter that will work well and cut at least 1/2 inch steel .Any thoughts on this unit ?price on the unit is $1399.

 

Has anybody ever converted to a parking hand brake?  If so I'd like to see some pictures and recommendations on which hand-lever you used and how you ran the brake cable.  Been kicking this idea around in my head for a bit, but extensive console modifications and brake line routing has me a bit reluctant.  

Hey guys it's been a while!
 
Cars been running well, especially after we threw in the limited slip and left the timing how we had it in Denver, lays down some sweet 11's haha..
 
Anywho, I'm tired of my hokey tranny cooler setup and I really want to run a new setup from the tranny to a new cooler new lines new cooler the whole deal. I can pick out the cooler thats not an issue, my issue is what lines and fittings do I need? What kind of lines do I use? I currently have a newer set of factory repop hard lines. I want to have as few connections as possible, to lessen the possibility of leaks. I HATE leaks...😡
 
Thanks guys!