diegoZzisy

Hi guys. This is my first post, but I've followed thus website for a long time.
I couldn't find any how to wrap these things, I could only find what material to use so I figured I'd post this and hopefully help someone. Below is a before and after.


 
 
Things you'll need:
3m "di-noc" (marine teak matched my origianl 69 woodgrain)
Sharp razor blades
Scissors
Blow dryer or heat gun (be careful with the heat gun)
 
Okay let's get started. So my original woodgrain was old, sun bleached and bubbling. So it's time to replace.
 
 
Step 1: removing old woodgrain
Picture 1

To remove the old woodgrain I just used a grinder with sanding disk. Just took it all the way down to the metal, you can go hard on it just make sure you smooth it all out at the end, if you leave gouges or chunks left on there it'll show through your new woodgrain.
 
Step 2: sealing the metal to preserve
Picture 2

I sprayed a layer of primer and some black enamel on mine just to seal in the wood and make sure the metal will last if moisture gets under the woodgrain
 
Step 3: applying new woodgrain
Picture 3

Now this stuff is pretty forgiving, make sure you let the material get to AT LEAST room temperature so it's workable.
Cut material to about the size of the panel leaving at least half and inch to one inch overhang. This will be used to make a solid woodgrain that will not peel off easily once finished.
I found that by removing all of the wax paper and starting from the top, setting the material onto the piece. And begin working downwards while pressing out most creases. Because the panels are concave you have to work the paper down, one thing I learned was this stuff is very workable. Specially if you have ever someone using the blow drying on medium heat or heat gun on low about 2 feet away. It'll get very soft and workable. Once you notice it geto soft get heat off of it immediately or you risk burning it. Once warmed up it'll stick very easily and once stuck it'll cool into a solid hold so try and get it as close as possible, once you work it all the way down you can use the heat again very lightly and press out wrinkles. You can use a credit card or your fingers. Just leave the paper dangling off the edges like picture 3
 
Step 4: folding over the edge
Picture 4

In picture 4 you can see how to cut the corners into a fan so you get a smooth corner and no boxy points sticking out. Take your time and go around folding it back. When completely wrapped around the back heat up the back to get a solid hold from the adhesive.
 
Step 5: cutting holes
Picture 5

In picture 5 you want to cut a plus sign in the middle of the circle. Make sure to leave at least a half inch from the edge so it'll cover the inset. Cut a circle out of the center. (Picture 6)

next, This part requires heating the material and pushing it inwards, it may come undone due to tension, that's okay just try to push all the way around the circle, flip the panel over and fan the edges and fold over, heat again to solidify the adhesive.
 
Pretty much for anything you can figure it out from there. I hope you understood all of this, lots of info, some thing that a video would be better but I didn't record myself doing this.

great build!!!!!
 
i too have read so much on angles etc ... that i know ill be laying under the car for hours before that bolt/weld goes in.. lol:tongue_smilie:

Cleaning out the garage and looking to sell a few things. All parts from a S code, automatic sports roof car with drum brakes and standard back seat. Additional pics and questions can be answered. All parts make offer and shipping TBD.

Anybody use the Scott Drake brand labeled shocks?  Are they simply KYB Gas-A-Justs that are relabeled for Scott Drake?  They look a little different than the KYB shocks.  Are they a high pressure gas shock like the KYB Gas-A-Justs?  There is very little info out there for these shocks.  Thanks in advance for any info.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz18124hp/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

The door glass rattles on my '70. I have the door panels off, there's a gap between the "U" shaped brackets and the vertical rods they slide up and down on. Is there supposed to be some kind of insulator on those brackets to keep them from rattling around?
 
Thanks,
Matt

WTB '70 Grande Coupe Landau 2/3 Vinyl Roof Top molding Trim which goes across roof top,comes in four pieces,I don't require the two short cast ends I only require the two long pieces.Attached top picture shows molding. Cheers Phil
 
No longer required purchased off EBay
 
 

Saw this in Bakersfield Craigslist and thought I remembered someone was looking for one.
 
Underdrive overdrive gearvender mounted on a Ford C4 automatic, less than 10,000 miles, was in a 1928 model A the owner bought it in Colorado brought it here and put a lighter powertrane in it $2500 obo text six six one 667-7889
 
 
https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/pts/5925456591.html

I am not going to use the dome light in my 69 Coupe & wanted to either make sail panels for my Coupe & mount Mach-1 sail panel lights in them or mount them in the side panels below the rear side windows & was wondering if anyone has an old set (doesn't have to be working ones) I can purchase to use to mock up to see if my idea will work before & buy new ones. Even if you only have 1 light that is really all I need.

This beautiful 1970 Ford Mustang Mach I with a built 428 Super Cobra Jet, 4-speed Toploader, disc brakes and power steering has just completed a full top to bottom restoration and has less than 100 miles on the restoration. A true Mach 1, this car started life as a 351 automatic car and had the 428 SCJ and Toploader swapped in by the previous owner. I purchased the car in 2004 and began the restoration that same year. As she spends most of her time in my garage, it is time to send her to a new home where her legs will be stretched regularly. Clean and clear Florida title in hand.
 
ENGINE:
 
The 428 was built by Bill's Speed Shop out of Fuquay-Varina, NC and features TRW .060 pistons with big valve cuts, a Crower solid lifter cam shaft, ported intake, polished Lemans rods, FPP rockers, stands, spacers and pushrods, shell lifters, steel roller timing chain, windage tray, 8 qt Milodan oil pan and ARP bolts. The motor also had all the necessary machine work done. The rear of the block prominently features the 'C' scratch mark, which indicates that it is a reinforced block used for 428CJ/SCJ's. I have added a Pertronix Stage III distributor with electronic ignition and a new Pertronix Flamethrower coil. The motor is fed by a Carter electric fuel pump and is topped by a Holley Double Pumper.
 
TRANSMISSION/REAR END:
 
The 4-speed Toploader has been rebuilt, is tight, rows the gears smoothly and features a Hurst shifter. The power is transferred to the pavement via a Ford 9" rear end with a 3.55 Detroit Locker.
 
SUSPENSION:
 
This Mach sits on a brand new suspension featuring a set of Shelby 1" drop springs (550#) on new spring perches and 1" lift shackles in the rear for a more aggressive stance. The bushings have all been replaced with urethane bushings and everything is tight throughout. The front shocks are KYB-GR2's, which when paired with the Shelby drop springs, makes for a great handling combination. The rear shocks are also KYB-GR2s.
 
BRAKES:
 
The front brakes have been converted to disc brakes with new rotors, calipers, pads and hardware. The factory soft rubber brake lines have been replaced by braided stainless steel lines. The rears are still drum brakes, however they have been rebuilt with new shoes and wheel cylinders.
 
STEERING:
 
This Mach has been converted to a power steering car with all of the necessary proper original Ford 428 pulleys and brackets being sourced from specialty suppliers. The power steering ram is brand new, as are all of the power steering high and low pressure lines. The car also had a recent alignment and drives straight and true.
 
WHEELS/TIRES:
 
The front Magnum 500's are brand new, while the rears are a little older and show a little wear (though that's only noticeable when you look closely for it). The front tires are brand new as well with less than 100 miles on them, while the rear tires have around 1,000 miles on them and are a little older. Plenty of tread left on the tires though.
 
GLASS:
 
The front windshield is brand new and looks fantastic. The rear glass is original Ford and is also in excellent shape. The rear quarter windows are in great shape and feature old school Holman-Moody race stickers (easily removable if desired). The door glass is in good shape, however the driver's side window does have a mark on it where I was told by the previous owner that a rock was thrown at it. The passenger side window also has a few small marks on it as well, though since this car does not have air conditioning, I rarely have the windows up and have never found this to be noticeable or an issue. As 70 was a bolt in door glass, replacement can be done quickly and inexpensively if so desired by the new owner.
 
INTERIOR:
 
The interior is in fantastic shape with freshly recovered seats (front and rear), a brand new OEM Ford tooling dash pad, new headliner and new deluxe door panels. The original rim blow steering wheel was refurbished and has a new switch installed. A custom Autometer gauge setup is located under the center section of the dash, which is covered in black vinyl that matches the seats nearly perfectly. Underneath the brand new carpeting is a sound deadening insulation (kind of like Dynamat).
 
The factory wiring harness was completely refurbished by Midlife and is in excellent shape. All the lights and gauges work, as does the AM radio. The Mach clock was working when I reinstalled it about a year ago, but now only works intermittently. I would imagine it's time for a quartz rebuild kit on it (~$100), or just leave it as is and enjoy the car as is. All of the lights have been converted to LED as well for a brighter display.
 
EXTERIOR:
 
The car was media blasted down to bare metal with any areas of rust being repaired. By and large, the car was in pretty solid shape after the media blasting. Torque boxes were installed to strengthen/stiffen the car and the driver's side floor pan was replaced along with a patch panel being installed on the driver's side lower rear quarter. After the metal work, the car was painted with a custom shade of dark grey metallic in base coat/clear coat. The paint is gorgeous and really pops in the sun due to all of the metal flake. There is a small paint chip on the passenger side headlight bucket from a rock. I've touched it up to make it less noticeable, but you can still see it in certain lights. The chrome bumpers front and rear are brand new and the front and rear window trim was refurbished by removing all of the dents and polishing out any scratches to a high shine. All other chrome parts were either cleaned up to look new or were replaced with new chrome.
 
OTHER INFORMATION:
 
Included with the sale is a second cowl panel painted the color of the car with holes drilled for the Autometer gauges that have been moved inside the cabin. This allows the gauges to be placed on the outside in direct line of sight and is ideal for drag racing. Also included with the sale is large box of spare and replacement parts, a binder of receipts and a full car car cover. Two sets of keys are also included with the sale.
There are too many other new or refurbished parts to include in this post, though all receipts from the restoration and some from the previous owner are available. She's an absolute head turner and gets looks and thumbs up everywhere I go. Additional pictures are available upon request. This Mach is located in the Southwest Florida/Fort Myers area and I am happy to help arrange for shipping. I hate to see her go, but it is time. Asking $36,900 or reasonable offer. Additional pictures can be found here - http://imgur.com/a/PmoiF.

Unless your going to modify an original console a side mount is the only alternative, maybe a jap car from left hand drive may work? If there is one

My harness refurbishment business just reached a major milestone: 500 underdash harnesses have been refurbished and sold to customers.  When I started out in March, 2008, I thought that there might be sufficient need to make this a hobby business, defined by the IRS as having no consecutive years of making a profit.  As of 2011, I had to register as a business, as the demand for these services was greater than I originally thought!
 
I started out thinking that the distribution of harnesses by production year would largely reflect two factors: how many Mustangs were built and the cost of reproduction harnesses.  Mustang productions peaked in 65/66, declining all the way through 73.  Reproduction harnesses start out at ~$500 for the earliest years, growing to ~$1000 for 1970.  No reproductions are available for 71-73.  I expected a reasonably flat distribution from 65through 70, with a bit higher demand for the later years.  What actually happened was much different:
 

 
The biggest surprise is that 1969 dominates all other years, accounting for 26% of all of my work.  The next highest year is 66, 67, and 70, each running about 13%.  1968 accounts for about 10%.  I think this data is telling me that 1969 is by far the most popular year Mustang, and that the 71-73 demand is much lower than other years.  We’ll see if this changes over the next few years. 
 
Thanks for reading!

This is not my car but looked like a good angle to submit.
 
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/photopost/data/500/medium/P10100087.JPG
 
The new mustang ruby red metallic color is what I'm debating on for paint
http://s835.photobucket.com/user/kn7671/media/2014%20Mustang%20GT/6e74a9382ac88e2b22e4cdbfb31dedac.jpg.html
 
http://themustangsource.com/forums/attachments/f831/142802d1374973853-rick57-ruby-red-130727_0001.jpg
 
Considering these wheels
 
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/hr99charcoalbrakelo.jpg
 
Or these
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/showroomhr99.jpg
 
 
With black interior and black top.
 
Let me know how I go about getting an image it's just hard to visualize what it will look like once it comes together
 
Thank you

351 W Heads (69 Model ;C9VE)$200 complete heads are in good cond. , Edelbrock performer Intake $65, chrome ford Motorsport valve covers $60 and Holley 600 single pump carb. $350.00 for 351 heads, intake, valve covers and carb.
also have 351 w 69 exh manifolds (C9OE $100.00) also 351w long tube headers for 69 mustang $75.00.
can send pics.
 
334-431-2313

Hi.  New member here.   A fellow forum member told me about this site, so I will be posting my project details here over the next months (years).
 
My car is a "F" code 1970 convertible, originally a auto/AC car with power top.   2 years ago, I obtained the car from a storage building in Las Vegas, from a friend who had an older family member who had give up on the project.  
 
I loaded the car into a POD, and transported it back home to North Carolina.   Over the past 2 years, I have been sorting and refinishing parts, and this week, had my friend at LatoRacing (forum member) come out and get the car to sort out the sheet metal work that needs to be done.
 
I will post some pics of the find, the transport, and progress since I obtained the car, and once caught up with that, will have LatoRacing post pictures of the progress.
 
Current plan is to build a Mach I style convertible, with a 393 stroker, C-6, 4 link rear, and rack and pinion/coil over front end.   Engine, trans, and interior are done and ready to be installed.
 
Look forward to documenting my project.
 
Regards,
 
Vic