So I bought the front end rebuild kit from Mustang's Unlimited, which included the UCA's, LCA's, spring perches etc. Should the UCA's be ready to install? I shouldn't have to adjust the caps right? I've read when you rebuild them you should spot weld the caps. Do I need to do this on new UCA's?
Hello and welcome to me, I am a proud owner of a 1969 Mustang Sports roof that has been modified from stock. I had a 69 Mustang while I was in high school and kept and worked on it for 10 yrs (was a decent car). However, the new wife and new kids coming along, plus the stoppage of selling leaded premium 110 octane fuel in California (where I was stationed at the time) caused me to sell my baby. Now years later with my last child leaving the nest I have another 69 in the Garage! I spent more money on this one but most of the heavy lifting was already completed when I bought it. Some of the things I have done to the car in the last 12 mo are.
Complete engine rebuild of the 351W. Boar was punched out .20 over, new pistons, polished crank, Balanced, Edelbrock RPM top end kit complete with Cam, heads, rockers, etc...
Uni Steer power rack and pinion steering system installed
15" stock magnum looking rims (wider in the rear) with the ole BF Goodrich TA's.
Going for the Mach 1 look a like so added stripes painted hood and put window louvers, gas cap, etc.
Wilwood power disc brakes front and rear.
Aftermarket gauges and gauge package.
Aftermarket Air Conditioning
I have done more but you get the idea. Here are the future mods I am currently gathering parts for.
Switching the FMX for a beefed up T5z from Ford Racing.
Interior front seats upgrade with new aftermarket seats, my car did not have the fold down seat I plan on correcting that.
Killer stereo system/ alarm
Here are some pics of the car, I hesitate to show the "before" pics as the car looks very good and I am sure I will get some grief for messing with it, but please consider that my upgrades are still under construction and when I am done and post side by side pics the criticism will be better appreciated.
Hi guys. This is my first post, but I've followed thus website for a long time.
I couldn't find any how to wrap these things, I could only find what material to use so I figured I'd post this and hopefully help someone. Below is a before and after.
Things you'll need:
3m "di-noc" (marine teak matched my origianl 69 woodgrain)
Sharp razor blades
Blow dryer or heat gun (be careful with the heat gun)
Okay let's get started. So my original woodgrain was old, sun bleached and bubbling. So it's time to replace.
Step 1: removing old woodgrain
To remove the old woodgrain I just used a grinder with sanding disk. Just took it all the way down to the metal, you can go hard on it just make sure you smooth it all out at the end, if you leave gouges or chunks left on there it'll show through your new woodgrain.
Step 2: sealing the metal to preserve
I sprayed a layer of primer and some black enamel on mine just to seal in the wood and make sure the metal will last if moisture gets under the woodgrain
Step 3: applying new woodgrain
Now this stuff is pretty forgiving, make sure you let the material get to AT LEAST room temperature so it's workable.
Cut material to about the size of the panel leaving at least half and inch to one inch overhang. This will be used to make a solid woodgrain that will not peel off easily once finished.
I found that by removing all of the wax paper and starting from the top, setting the material onto the piece. And begin working downwards while pressing out most creases. Because the panels are concave you have to work the paper down, one thing I learned was this stuff is very workable. Specially if you have ever someone using the blow drying on medium heat or heat gun on low about 2 feet away. It'll get very soft and workable. Once you notice it geto soft get heat off of it immediately or you risk burning it. Once warmed up it'll stick very easily and once stuck it'll cool into a solid hold so try and get it as close as possible, once you work it all the way down you can use the heat again very lightly and press out wrinkles. You can use a credit card or your fingers. Just leave the paper dangling off the edges like picture 3
Step 4: folding over the edge
In picture 4 you can see how to cut the corners into a fan so you get a smooth corner and no boxy points sticking out. Take your time and go around folding it back. When completely wrapped around the back heat up the back to get a solid hold from the adhesive.
Step 5: cutting holes
In picture 5 you want to cut a plus sign in the middle of the circle. Make sure to leave at least a half inch from the edge so it'll cover the inset. Cut a circle out of the center. (Picture 6)
next, This part requires heating the material and pushing it inwards, it may come undone due to tension, that's okay just try to push all the way around the circle, flip the panel over and fan the edges and fold over, heat again to solidify the adhesive.
Pretty much for anything you can figure it out from there. I hope you understood all of this, lots of info, some thing that a video would be better but I didn't record myself doing this.