S code 69

My book is unclear, it says 7 quarts and then it says later on that the converter holds 4, so is it 4+7 or does it mean 7 and 4 are in the converter? I'm 4spd guy I've never messed with an auto before this is new to me. I have to break the engine in so once I start it I have to pour the ATF in as it's running without shutting down to check the transmission level. so I'd like to know the correct amount beforehand.

Sure you can bend any sheet metal by hand, but the dynacorn stuff is like copper. no comparison to real auto body steel, for a fender or something I suppose you can live with it because even as cheap as it is it's going to take more abuse than your paint job will but in a stuctural application I wonder. As far as rust goes just buy a car without any, or so little rust it doesn't matter. they're out there and not that expensive, anyone who thinks major rust repair is somethging you have to live with just isn't buying their cars in the right area. shipping is cheaper than fixing.

I'm about ready to put the transmission ( FE with C6 ) in my Mach 1 and I'm wondering if the engine is tipped back far enough to get the top bolts in. it looks like if I pulled the bolts out of the steering idler it would drop the steering down enough to let the engine tip a little more without hitting the oil pan. any tips?

That's true, there is a little domestic made Ford Tooling stuff out there and it's well worth the money. Dynacorn uses a heavy soft steel so they can get away with easy manufacturing, you have to work with it to imagine how different it is from original sheet metal. even if their body was high quality it's a fake, just a ricer mustang want to be I just don't get the appeal myself.

As has been said the torino 390's are the same, but you'll need the proper block plates , frame mounts and rear crossmember for a mustang installation.

I don't get it, why would you pay as much for an asian made shell as you can buy a driver quality fastback? I'm not trying to argue I just cannot grasp why anyone would do that, and if you had worked with Dynacorn garbage sheet metal already I really can't imagine it. I made the mistake of buying a dynacorn hood for my car, when I made the cutouts for the turn signal indicators I could take the metal and bend it around like playdough. crap, pure crap.

Yes

As long as you can buy a solid west coast fastback for 5-10K I can't see the point in conversions or Asian made Dynacorn mustangs. I never start a project with resale in mind, but I keep it in mind, nothing beats the real thing and if it's cheaper all the better.

The world's your oyster if you have a small block, if you have a big block Waldron's is about the only place I could find. you might check their web site and see what they have for a drop top.

I'd pull the MC and check the rod length, if it's ok I'd pull the booster, unless you have so much air in the system that the pedal is going to the floor and your firm feel is bottoming out the pedal then one of those two places just about has to be your problem.

I'm no rust expert at all but on the little spots I've delt with I sandblast it to bare metal and put Wurth on it, I think that's just a more expensive POR 15. I wouldn't trust anything to cure rust myself other than bare metal or new metal, but under a vinyl roof you aren't going to be in as much trouble as if it was under a high dollar paint job so it isn't as big of risk.

I guess I'm old school because I like the book in front of me not running to the computer all the time. If you're talking about the Ford manual set they suck in my opinion, I have a stack of books and less information than one Mopar TSM. is there something better out there? if there is forget the blue blank books.

There is no reason you couldn't fabricate something, but the same could be said for any car if function was the only thing that mattered. In reality the horsepower gained by it wouldn't be noticable so myself I just can't see the logic in going to much effort.

Boy I don't know much about that carb, but if it's cool and your choke isn't closed you have a problem. You could also run the choke by hand while someone else cranks it and see if it fires up like it should.

The repop stuff I've used has been OK, I bought as much Ford Tooling as posible and used the Corvex on the rest. the front and rear window trim is stainless so by far the best thing you can do is restore and buff that out, on the rest considering what NOS cost IF you can find it the repop is good enough unless you have a super high dollar car.

In your stock fuel pump there are valves to make the fuel go in the right direction, and should stop it from draining back. most carbs will hold enough in the bowl to start the car but I'm not sure about your carb or if it's leaking itself. It could still be a choke issue, if it fires up easy when you pump it before cranking .

Either your choke is too lean or the gas is draining out of the carb and you have to crank it back up there. if it starts by cranking and not pumping it's draining, if you have to pump it even after a good cranking spell it's your choke.

My Mach 1 was build in November '68 in San Jose and it does not have the cut outs. There must have been a run of hoods made with the intention of a functional scop that never happened or something along those lines.

I've bought from quite a few of them, I had some real trouble with a big order from CJ's but in the end they made it right. they all pretty much sell the same thing and the service seems ok so price is the number one issue. CJ's has free shipping on all orders over $50 most every Wed. and 10% off some Sundays. so I make an order about every week, when you're doing a bumper to bumper restoration it's amazing how man 2 bit items you find you need and on a $50 order the shipping is half the cost anymore. Watch ebay too, most of the vendors sell there sometimes cheaper than in their catalog.

Most all of the vendors sell reproduction sets for around $300, that's probably going to be the best bet.

Thats a ton of vacuum so forget that. The rod has to be adjusted when you swap parts, the rod is part of the booster and mine was way out of adjustment when I bought my reman one. if it's seated too far out you'd get a situation like you're talking about, but there are other things as well. sometimes you have to take your best shot and do the process of elimination.

I'm not sure if you'd call that functional, other than a cooling aid maybe, the whole idea of a scoop is forced induction and that's not going to pressurize the engine bay. Makes me wonder if it wasn't just your average bright idea that got passed around from piston head to piston head in the day.

True story I never thought about that, but if you're going to butcher up a car like that anyway you could put some KC Highlites on the roof and solve the problem.

Maybe Ford did that on scoop fitted cars to make sure water didn't stay under the scoop? I'm not sure but the hood on my Mach 1 didn't have it, and I'm sure it was original because the turn light cut outs were factory done.

All of the non functional Mach 1 style scoops came with a rubber flap to keep rain and junk from getting under the scoop and making a mess. Some hacks cut a hole under the scoop and used an open type filter thinking they were gaining something. the only way to have a functional scoop that wouldn't be some sort of abortion would be to convert to the shaker, not real cheap but if you want to do it right the parts are repoped.