S code 69

FJ5 is sublime, that explains why it looks like it. I'd paint your car that color and call it new lime if it was me. My car was original silver jade but I went with gulfstream aqua, check that clolor out if you like silver jade you'll love that one. if you send me me your email I can sent you a picture of it done in base/clear it's beutiful. I don't know how to post one on here or I would for you.

Makes you wonder if that's what the color is supposed to look like or if that's what the owner thinks it should have been. looks a lot like sublime, that is one sweet car if that's truly the original color, I like it anyway.

I would pull the motor and strip the car to a rolling shell, then strip it to bare metal this has to be done anyway so just get it over and then you'll know excatly where you're at.

I've really never seen the color, and pictures can make things look different, it it's anything like the color on that Mach 1 on ebay it would be a crime not to go back to it. if it's some washed out puke green I'd have to think about it, and what I'd probably do it paint it that Sublime looking color and say it was new lime. it would fool 99% of mustang guys including me.

The shoe size is what the drum is called, in other words a 2" wide shoe takes a 2" drum. the drum will actually be a little wider. the only thing I've seen 31 slines in is a 428, you can tell by the end of the axle shaft, if it has a good size hole in it then it's a 28, if it's pretty much flush it's a 31. but it doesn't matter on brakes. My S code 9" has the 2" like every other 9" mustang I've seen. since you don't have drums anyway just get 2" shoes and drums and go for it. be sure to put new slaves in too.

Wow that's something special, it's a no brainer I'd paint the car that color in a heartbeat. since you can prove it's original it makes the car special, and I can assure you more valuble. What you can do is have a pint mixed up, then tweak it a little to your likes as long as it's close. who's going to be able to prove it's off a little? it's not like there will be another to compare it to.

I've seen a car repainted that Ford color and it's very close to the FJ5 Sublime on my Super Bee. I love it, I'd love to have a Mach 1 that color but only if it was the original color for that car, changing to it would be too much for my taste considering how rare it is. AMC had Big Bad Green , Mopar had Sublime and Sassy Grass and as rare as it is Ford had this, it was short lived but that was the peak of the muscle car era, and how could you miss it with a color like that.

You're fine just bolt it up. the cougar did have blocks and pads but the mustang didn't. the tie bolt hole is the same, it's always a lose fit.

If you're running rollers that takes care of most of your problems, still if your rings aren't seated fully a rich mix and not much oil like a cold idle would give you isn't great. My main concern would be the cam on a new engine, but that's not a problem in your case.

I agree.

The 410 was only maye a couple years, 66-67 I think. it's a 390 block with a 428 crank. since all FE's are basically the same anything you wanted to do on a 428 or 390 would apply here too.

Even though you probably broke your cam and rings in proper I don't consider it a good idea to let a engine that new just idle, add to the fact if your choke is working right you're running rich and it's just not a good situation. if you want to start it cold and not drive it I would get it running and after a short warm up get the rpm up to at least 1700-1800 and keep it from just running at idle for extended time.

Today since you have the parts to convert I'd say it would not hurt the value and might even help. down the road as these cars get harder to find in original condition and unkidderized I'd say it will hurt it's value. if you want the 4 spd go ahead and convert it and just keep all your auto parts so it can be switched back. no harm done that way.

I looked everywhere and couldn't find it. I think you'll have to pop it out and have it cut, sometimes if your mirror isn't broken you can flip it over and use the other side .

I looked in my book and Ford did use the 390 in a few cars in 1970, I just figured since they dropped it in 70 for the mustang it carried for all models. chances are in a gandpa car like that it's exactly what he says it is, not much chance of anyone changing an engine in a car nobody has wanted in 30 years. When I said drill and tap the heads, intakes are no problem, but if you've got GT heads that come with it you're set. you'll want the transmission too if you're going from a small block and using an auto, don't forget to change the shift arm to the floor shift style as well and that has to be done when it's rebuilt.

36,000 with the original engine is not too far out of line if it's as nice as it looks. if that's the car I'm thinking of it's been for sale for a long time, which means he won't deal on the price or that he's ready to one or the other. if you could buy it aroud 30k it would be a good deal, if you paid 10k for the car which is as cheap as you're going to find a decent one then put at least 20k in the restoration there you are. Wade I sent you a message in your PM box or email one or the other, I hate computers.

Most of the time the numbers are poorly stamped on one head, easy to fake, the date code on the block is more important if it's about right you can't tell and neither can anyone else. a proper date code 428 is going to be pretty spendy $2000 or more for a core, I'd just use that engine if it was me. That price seems like plenty to me even for an R code in the rust belt, non numbers needing a total restoration. I'd figure a safe 20k to restore it even doing most of the work yourself. if it's rust free coming from somewhere else it's probably in the ball park though.

Mine are TMI and they're nice, but I'm not sure what the difference is between them since I don't have anything to compare with. with a lot of this repop stuff there is one maker and lots of brands putting their name on it, maybe this is just another case of that but I don't know.

The seats have the wrong covering for sure, but they look like the right seats, steering wheel of course , engine bay needs detailed with correct valve covers, put the coil where it belongs and that sort of thing. the hood pins are in the wrong place, that's strange why anyone would do that, but it can be fixed when it's painted. Decent car and I bet it could be bought for less, it would be hard to pass in the 18-19 range if it's no worse than the pictures show. isn't that color black jade? I think the bright sunlight makes it look more green.

Can you say rebody? a complete color change, an interior color change, a transmission change and a big block to small block change, all possible but very unlikely. I'd have to see what's stamped under those fenders before I'd buy it. If it's an R code probably more than you have said you wanted to spend, if it's a rebody I'd guess less than 10k, and if the rust is worse than the pictures show quite a bit less. I've never seen any time that's better than the other, the time to buy is when the seller needs the money and wants to sell what you're looking for.

But still, you can't have a coolant leak if you're not using water. I'll shut up on this now unless I'm asked but since this is an older rebuilt 302 do what you can then run it, if you find a problem that can be fixed fix it , if you can't run it until it needs rebuilt so what. we're not talking about a numbers matching Boss 429 here, if it aint broke don't fix it, sooner or later you're going to have to rebuild it anyway.

I use SEM trim black on that sort of stuff, it works good.

2" is plenty on a 302, a 428 CJ came with 2".

Since you say the tapping started with the over rev situation I'd check the push rods, you need to adjust the valves with more preload anyway so see if you have a bend one while you're in there. This won't explain the smoke or over heating but it could explain the vibration. you have some sympyoms that don't tie together so one has to figure you have more than one problem. I guess fix one them move on to the next.

No , most of them I've seen don't have the fold down but you can add it if you want to spend some money. Watch autabuy and collectorcartraderonline too if you aren't already.