copb8

PS Mach 1 rocker installed. 
 

Agree. I've had mine 3 years  and they have been flawless.

I would love to walk around your place and take in everything you have. I have no idea how you tell the tiny difference of parts from piles of what looks like the exact same thing.

You spelled collector wrong ,and i am still looking for more !

Get a thermostat for housing with a port in it. 

I would measure the intake by the temp sensor. It is an area before the coolant goes to the radiator.

This is old pricing, but will give you an idea:
Lentech Automatics
 Street Bruiser AODE/4R70W
Economical Performer
Part# 7000-4R70-BRS  $2295.00
Rated to 500 h.p.
Overview: The Street Cruiser is an improved alternative to a stock replacement transmission. It is designed to provide much better shift quality, control and reliability, and it carries Lentech’s famous Lifetime Ltd. Warranty!.
Economical Performer
Part# 7000-4R70-BRS
Rated to 500 h.p.
Overview: The Street Cruiser is an improved alternative to a stock replacement transmission. It is designed to provide much better shift quality, control and reliability, and it carries Lentech's famous Lifetime Ltd. Warranty!.
Specifications
· Quality selected core, completely stripped, all major components washed and inspected for excessive wear
· Clutch cylinders modified for extra clutches
· Numerous modifications in strategic areas for efficient clutch operation and life
· 6 or 7 high-energy 3-4 clutches
· 3 or 4 OEM quality intermediate clutches
· 5 OEM quality forward clutches
· 3 or 4 OEM reverse clutches
· New 2" O/D band
· All new seals, gaskets, and filter
· New bushings and thrustwasher (where needed)
· New intermediate one-way clutch and spiral lock ring
· New low one-way clutch
· Lentech recalibrated Valve Body with automatic shifting
· New oil pan and bolts

Available Convertors
· 12" ( lockup ) Part# 7902-CONV-12LU
· 9.5" (lockup) Part# 7902-CONV-95LU
Available Upgrades
Lentech Cast, Aluminum Pan Part# 7A194-AOD-CST
 
Street Terminator AODE/4R70W
Part# 7000-4R70-STT  $2795.00
Rated to 700 hp.
Overview: Street Terminator AODE/4R70W transmissions maintain fully automatic shifting for street ability. They are recommended for most performance engines that may see street usage. Each unit receives several key internal modifications and upgrades for increased durability. It is highly Enthusiast's Choice Part# 7000-4R70-STTRated to 700 hp.
Overview: Street Terminator AODE/4R70W transmissions maintain fully automatic shifting for street ability. They are recommended for most performance engines that may see street usage. Each unit receives several key internal modifications and upgrades for increased durability. It is highly recommended that higher than stock axle ratio be installed (3.55 or higher) in conjunction with this transmission model. Auxiliary transmission oil coolers are also highly recommended.

Specifications
· Quality selected core, completely stripped, all major components washed and inspected for excessive wear
· Clutch cylinders modified for extra clutches
· Numerous modifications in strategic areas for efficient clutch operation and life
· 7 "high energy" 3-4 clutches
· 4 intermediate clutches
· 5 or 6 "high energy" forward clutches
· 3 or 4 reverse clutches
· New 2" High energy O/D band
· All new seals, gaskets, and filter
· New bushings and thrustwasher (where needed)
· New intermediate one-way clutch and spiral lock ring
· Billet midshaft
· Lentech recalibrated Valve Body with automatic shifting and increased base operating pressure to increase longevity.
· New oil pan and bolts
· Re-assembled with all critical clearances adjusted for high performance use. recommended that higher than stock axle ratio be installed (3.55 or higher) in conjunction with this transmission model. Auxiliary transmission oil coolers are also highly recommended.
Enthusiast's Choice
Part# 7000-4R70-STT
Rated to 700 hp.
Overview: Street Terminator AODE/4R70W transmissions maintain fully automatic shifting for street ability. They are recommended for most performance engines that may see street usage. Each unit receives several key internal modifications and upgrades for increased durability. It is highly recommended that higher than stock axle ratio be installed (3.55 or higher) in conjunction with this transmission model. Auxiliary transmission oil coolers are also highly recommended.

Specifications
· Quality selected core, completely stripped, all major components washed and inspected for excessive wear
· Clutch cylinders modified for extra clutches
· Numerous modifications in strategic areas for efficient clutch operation and life
· 7 "high energy" 3-4 clutches
· 4 intermediate clutches
· 5 or 6 "high energy" forward clutches
· 3 or 4 reverse clutches
· New 2" High energy O/D band
· All new seals, gaskets, and filter
· New bushings and thrustwasher (where needed)
· New intermediate one-way clutch and spiral lock ring
· Billet midshaft
· Lentech recalibrated Valve Body with automatic shifting and increased base operating pressure to increase longevity.
· New oil pan and bolts
· Re-assembled with all critical clearances adjusted for high performance use.
· Cast gray finish
· All complete units are dyno tested to insure a quality product
· Lifetime LTD warranty

Available Convertors
10" ( lockup ) Part# 7902-CONV-10LU
9.5" (lockup ) Part# 7902-CONV-95LU

Available Upgrades
Transbrake valvebody upgrade Part#7000-OPT-STTB
 
 
Strip Terminator AODE/4R70W
For the EXTREME enthusiast  $3695.00
Proven to 1500hp/1000lb/ft
The Strip Terminator AODE/4R70W transmission is in a new class all by itself. A manual shift, fixed pressure valvebody is standard fare. (Autoshift available) Incorporated into this valvebody is Lentech’s famous Reverse/Third technology for huge torque capacity. It is recommended for wild performance vehicles that see limited street usage.

1 is 4 way flasher can
2 is brake switch
3 is for optional trunk lamp
4 is for optional clock
5 is for your turn signal flashers.

I have a c4 with a gear vendors and love it.  The automatic mode is really all I use.  Auto mode works via a control box that gets a signal from the speedo cable via the adapter that is used to connect a Ford cable to it.  I'll post pics when i'm home but I mounted the on off switch on the shifter and the auto/manual switch under the dash.   I changed my diff from 2.80 to 3.55 and with the gv my RPMs are basically the same.  These units are basically indestructible mine came used off a few hard years of drag car duty.  I had it inspected at a gv authorized shop and they said it looked fine.  Sometimes you can find them on old motorhomes and medium worktrucks.  I did get a custom shaft made but have no ill affects.  The trans also needed to be lowered a 1/4 inch but we were able to modify the standard brace.  One note I will make if you are driving it hard you do really feel the shift into OD but I find that enhances the fun.

I have the FMX also, but when I looked at the Gear Vendor, there wasn't an automatic mode. Do you know how they accomplish that? Something to think about is the need to make the driveshaft significantly shorter and how that affects driveline angles and vibrations. 
Instead of an AOD I intend to go with a 4R70W, which is the last version of the AOD that improved all its shortcomings. It requires an electronic transmission control and, if you're handy, it is a bolt-in conversion, but the driveshaft does need to be shortened somewhat. There is a guy that makes transmission supports and a shifter mod that allows the use of the stock shifter. If you're interested I'll find his contact information.
Heres a thread on the 4R70W;
https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1965-4r70w-conversion-complete-how-to-pic-heavy.1119498/page-8

FINALLY! After jack with it for just over 2 YEARS I have a smooth running transmission. And like I had been saying over and over again, it was the torque converter. They finally pulled the trans again and rebuilt the converter. Now it runs as smoothly as it did when I first brought it in to fix it shifting and leaking.
It'll be nice to go down the road and not be pissed off every time I get above 2150 RPMs.
 

FINALLY! After jack with it for just over 2 YEARS I have a smooth running transmission. And like I had been saying over and over again, it was the torque converter. They finally pulled the trans again and rebuilt the converter. Now it runs as smoothly as it did when I first brought it in to fix it shifting and leaking.
It'll be nice to go down the road and not be pissed off every time I get above 2150 RPMs.
 

FINALLY! After jack with it for just over 2 YEARS I have a smooth running transmission. And like I had been saying over and over again, it was the torque converter. They finally pulled the trans again and rebuilt the converter. Now it runs as smoothly as it did when I first brought it in to fix it shifting and leaking.
It'll be nice to go down the road and not be pissed off every time I get above 2150 RPMs.
 

FINALLY! After jack with it for just over 2 YEARS I have a smooth running transmission. And like I had been saying over and over again, it was the torque converter. They finally pulled the trans again and rebuilt the converter. Now it runs as smoothly as it did when I first brought it in to fix it shifting and leaking.
It'll be nice to go down the road and not be pissed off every time I get above 2150 RPMs.
 

FINALLY! After jack with it for just over 2 YEARS I have a smooth running transmission. And like I had been saying over and over again, it was the torque converter. They finally pulled the trans again and rebuilt the converter. Now it runs as smoothly as it did when I first brought it in to fix it shifting and leaking.
It'll be nice to go down the road and not be pissed off every time I get above 2150 RPMs.
 

It’s not easy. No one makes them for the rear. It’s English-wheel, hammer and sandbag of flat sheet metal custom work, but it can be done of course. 
The front fenders were much easier: give Anvil your credit card number and they’ll send two fenders with a 1-1/2” bigger flare than stock. 
I run 315s out back now without mini tubs and 265s up front without rubbing. 
 

Congrats on the new shop.
I wish I had that kind of space to expand into. Right now my oversized 3 car garage is a Tetris model, or more like a Rubix cube when moving things around. Your ceiling height is perfect. Being able to stand upright under the car is a real luxury.

Congrats on the new shop.
I wish I had that kind of space to expand into. Right now my oversized 3 car garage is a Tetris model, or more like a Rubix cube when moving things around. Your ceiling height is perfect. Being able to stand upright under the car is a real luxury.

I installed these same belts almost immediately after buying the car. I believe I may have even used stangs-r-me's post for some guidance (thanks). I'm very happy with the belts overall but have 2 small complaints. The retractor for the shoulder belt isn't very strong so you have to slightly coax it to rewind sometimes.
The adjustment clasp of the buckle strap needs to have more aggressive knurling as it slowly (over many uses) allows the buckle to slide out along the strap. Easy enough to occasionally readjust it so not a big deal. I do feel it'll hold strong in an accident at the position it's set so not a safety issue.
 

On my 70, I ended up adding cup holders  to my stock console using some magnets and cup holders that were purchased on Amazon.   I have the TMI console for my 66, and it is good, but not great. 

wow Wow WOW!!!
 
You're car is spectacular. I can't imagine how excited and proud you must be. 
 
Congratulations.

I hope you've taken the time to copy/paste this post to a Google, Yelp and Facebook review. That's really where it'll help fellow buyers. Once that's done I'd put it to bed unless he reaches back out to you to make amends.

This has been updated to include both the tachometer and non-tach cars.This may be more detail than you need, but it is sure to have information you can't get elsewhere.
1. It identifies all the wires coming into the plug for the flex connector, what they do, and how to test them.
2. How the Instrument Voltage Regulator works and how to test it.
3. How the gauges work, several ways to test them, and a detailed method to adjust or calibrate them.
4. How to test each component- all the various lights (there are twelve of them) and even how to fix the ammeter.
In rev5 I have updated page 7 with new information on calibrating the gauges. Some people insist that the resistance of the senders is 73 ohms, while others claim it is 78 ohms.  Regardless it is only a 6% difference and since Ford does not publish their specs, we will probably never know. But, since I'm lazy and didn't feel like changing the pictures on all the other pages, it is stated as being 78 ohms on page 7 and 73 ohms on many other pages.
5. A couple of years have passed. A VMF member provided pictures from his tach dash car so I incorporated those into rev6, and reorganized the document into obvious sections like IVR, Gauges, Chassis Grounds, Non-tach car testing, and Tach car testing. I believe the changes make it easier to diagnose and repair either version of car. In light of the problems plaguing the site with "Bandwidth Limit Exceeded" I have added a method to view this document and others on: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing
69-70 instrument gauge cluster6.docx

I've installed these as well and had an issue with the wiring of my car. Gary was actually more responsive to the problem than I was! :-) He kept checking back and making suggestions until the issue was resolved, which was not related to his product. Love being able to see now and being seen.

I've installed these as well and had an issue with the wiring of my car. Gary was actually more responsive to the problem than I was! :-) He kept checking back and making suggestions until the issue was resolved, which was not related to his product. Love being able to see now and being seen.