copb8

Ok, so I've had my steering wheel off a half-dozen times now trying to locate and silence a relentless squeak when turning it. I finally located where I think it's happening. It's the 2 horn electrical contact pins that run across the bottom of the aftermarket hub (Scott Drake) conductor disk. I've now tried using grease and silicon spray to make it stop but it squeaks just as bad. What would be your next approach?

That's discouraging. Good luck and I guess I'll just keep my fingers crossed

I just installed one 3 weeks ago so I can't comment on its durability. The sound improvement over the aftermarket head unit that was there was significant but it's no B&O, but a lot of that is speakers. When I was doing my research on what to put it in the general impression I got was the the units were pretty decent quality. If you decide to go the repair route please post back so we know how reasonably they are.

Well of course the moment I post my question(s) and go back to googling I find some of the answers that I couldn't find for 2 hours before. So I found an installation instruction document on CJP and it appears that every light has a diffuser and that the process to replace or remove those isn't all that big a deal. (correct me if I'm wrong). That said, I'd still prefer to find an LED light bulb that'll just fit in the existing diffusers without having to open up the cluster and remove them.

Resurrecting this from the dead....... I need clarification on whether the diffusers would need to be removed to use these specific bulbs? 194-NWHP5 Bulbs I'd prefer the whiter look for the gauges and was thinking if the these fit with the diffusers then I'd simply install all white bulbs. If the diffusers need to be removed then I guess I'll need to get color specific lights for the high-beam and turn-signals. Is removing the diffusers a big pain that will lead to other things breaking? Are there diffusers for all the lights, or just the turn signal and high beam lights? If the latter I may just change out the dash lights and leave those. Thanks

I found the part I'm referring to Ignition Linkage It appears that I'd need to disconnect the actuator arm and slide the cast piece out the bottom of the slide it's in? Then remove the snap ring and locking pin? Can this be done without removing the steering column?

I have an aftermarket steering wheel and hub. The hub has no provision for the steering lock that is standard on the car. The problem is that the contact plate on the aftermarket hub that contacts the horn pins is too large in diameter and the locking pin from the ignition switch barely contacts the edge of it when the ignition switch is in the lock position. This can create a short on the horn plate and blows the horn fuse. My plan was simply to pull the locking pin, which is spring loaded, completely out and store it with my original wheel. Simple enough. Nope. I have the wheel off and there doesn't seem to be a way to pull the pin. I removed the collar that surrounds it thinking that would release it but it doesn't. I then pulled the ignition switch and the retaining clip and drive gear that move the pin and up and down thinking that would release it. Nope again. Now I'm not sure how to get it out? Or even it this is the best approach? Thoughts?

How awesome to have a classic mustang as a daily driver.

Very nice chassis/suspension setup. Is your car primarily a track car or an occasional track car?

I keep telling my wife if I ever come across a 1 bedroom 6 car garage house I'm just buying, no permission asked. The lift is an Advantage Lift. I think the quality is very good. Lifts can really vary from the bottom to top tier. I consider this a higher middle tier.

Not directly Mustang related but it stores a mustang so there's that. I've been wanting to have a nice finished garage ever since we built out house 15 years ago so I finally got off my duff and did it. All new paint top to bottom, new cabinets, big screen TV, and professionally done floors. Couldn't be happier with the results. Now I make my wife take her shoes off when she come in it from the house Mustang related I've installed an electric trunk release, retrosound stereo, chased squeaks and rattles, had the exhaust reworked.... Been a product season for me.

Not the most brilliant of April Fools jokes marketing wise.

Jeez, that car is beautiful. Funny tho, at a certain angle that grill makes it look like it has one lazy eye. :-) What is your recommended muffler that gives decent sound but minimizes drone? I have Flowmasters right now and the drone at 1800-2000 is a beating!

I saw one for the first time at a Good Guys car show and really liked how clean it made it all look.

Thank you

Perfect. I would've never guessed 'Show panels'. Thank you

I like the look of this under-hood infill piece in front of the radiator but can't find it anywhere. Not sure what to search for but what I've tried so far hasn't worked. Anyone what what it's called and/or where it can be purchased?

Sure enough, previous owner hadn't got both sides clipped into the upper 'hooks'. One side was just flapping around with the loop clacking against the hook. Disassembled and reassembled and now it's has tight as a tick. Thanks. So now it's on to the next rattle.....

That is EXACTLY what I needed. Thank you!

Hello All, I'm finally through chasing the bigger ticket items on my car and now I've become the Rattle Hunter to quiet things down a bit. I found a big source of noise coming from the upright rear cushion on my back seat. It is loose against the backing plate but I can't figure out how it's attached to the backing plate. I'm able to loosen the backing plate from the body and swing the whole assembly forward into the cabin but I've looked for screws and pulled up and down to try and detach the cushion but with no luck. Any direction would be appreciated. BTW, I don't have the sport-shelf seat option however I was surprised that the rear panel was still on hinges and folded forward after removing the top trim strip that holds it to the package shelf.

You certainly won't have that issue with Gary at Vintage LED's. He and I worked through the crazy 1970 side-marker issues like it was his personal car.

Also a Vintage LED convert. The improvement is dramatic. I've had them almost 3 years now with no issues. If there was one tiny nit to pick based on personal preference is I don't care for how the brake lights light up. They 'sequence' up instead of just lighting all 3 instantly. That said, my friend says he prefers it so it's a simple matter of personal preference. I'm not willing to give up the sequential turn signals to change it though.

Definitely better. I like it.

I think it could look good if you blacked out the chrome on the center section or blacked out the orange on the lights but as it is it looks like 2 different parts put on the same car.

I like to follow up on threads I started to let anyone who's searching for answers know what the final resolution was. Since there seems to be no solution to install a Saginaw pump on a 351 Cleveland with AC unless you go to a very expensive and non-original looking serpentine belt system, I decided to roll the dice and simply buy and install a re-manufactured OEM pump from Summit. It's a Cardone pump and I've heard quality can be a bit hit and miss (hate to say this since I contracted for them for 10 years). Unfortunately there weren't too many alternatives that were highly reviewed. During the install I found out that the old pump in my car was a Ford unit but was a non-original pump and that the bracket wasn't the same as an original OEM either. I sourced an old correct bracket from a friend and stripped it down and refinished it. I then painted the ugly silver reman pump black and installed the entire unit. I had to rework the hoses as the connectors were in different positions. The BIGGEST pain was getting the hoses correct and fitted between the pump and the Borgeson box. What a pain! After the install the pump was an improvement but not where I'd hoped it'd be, but after some bleeding, burping and driving it is now a HUGE improvement. I can now back into my garage at idle without having to practically twist the steering wheel off the column. I'm thrilled. Now on to the next thing......