grendi

the basic security stuff is always a good point to start. the march 2010 issue of modified mustangs & fords might give you some input. instead of a fuell safe tank, you could also install a steel rear seat and trunk divider panel: http://www.americanpony.com/store.mv?p=802007-09-198-199 http://www.stephanies-mustang.com/divider.htm the fuel safe is the better choice, but i don't know if it fits your budget.

if your getting them from Andover Restraints, buy a version with sleeved or cable buckle ends. http://www.andoauto.com/Belt256.jpg http://www.andoauto.com/Belt76.jpg i bought the cool, retro style 3-point conversion belts from NPD with aviator lift style buckles that fit into my console and they are a pain in the ass to use. here is a installation instruction for the julianos belts. (http://www.julianos.com/retract_3point.html) http://www.julianos.com/how2_3pt_mustang_custom.html i think it should be the same for the ones from Andover Restraints

Forel Publishing used to protect their stuff with hexalock, and i though that was a pain in the ass, but at least there was no online activation.....

granada tie rods are close to 70 tie rods, but still, different in size. it's recomended to swap the tie rods, because the 70 tie rods are just a little to small. but.... why do you want to use granada spindles. 70 drum spindles are probably the best you can get. with a simple adapter you can add anything from this: to this:

if you have a small block, a manual rack might be an option. if you have a big block, i would recommend a power rack.

is this what your looking for? http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=37 http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=37

as far as i know, the capacity of a mustanc C6 is ~11quart depending on the model. if you take away the ~4 quart for the converter you end up with ~7 quarts. http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/fluid_capacity.asp

so are you goint to mount it eleanor style :scared: :surrender: :helpsmilie:

if you live in europe, us-cars are the imports ;-)

i'm interested in a good hood grill molding.

the CamQuest simulator software from CompCams might give you an impression of the power you would gain with headers.(http://www.compcams.com/CAMQUEST/) unless you run a hot cam, you problably don't loose a lot of power with your manifolds.

good to hear, i'm shure you invested a lot more then what you would get for that beauty

are we talking about a re-manufactured engine or an engine built from new parts?

according to my info, a 1970 cougar has the same rear axle width as a 67-70 mustang (59.25"). so that rear end should fit your car.

you could probably swap the rear end with one of a 71-73 mustang. that would be like using a 1" spacer on both sides. :biggrin:

what size are they?

there's also people that can't differ pepsi from coke :biggrin:

i have an l-code with R&P and a S-Code with stock power steering. the s-code might be faster on the highway, but if the road is curvy, he doesn't have a chance, and there are a lot of curvy roads in switzerland :biggrin: one of the most beautiful examples can be found in the attachment

if you would have ever driven a car with R&P, this question would be obsolete and by the way, i have no idea what hassle you are talking about.

???? i got my november issue last week :-(

2006 honda civic 2.2l i-ctdi 5 door (~40MPG)

keep in mind the fatman mod a steering, suspension and brake upgrade. if you add coil overs and aftermarket brakes to the price of the randalls r&p your in the same price range or even higher. http://totalcontrolproducts.com/vas_bolton-co.html http://totalcontrolproducts.com/fcoc-fd.html http://www.rrs-online.com/phase1products.php i have the randalls r&p and i like it. the turning radius could be better and the wheels don't turn back to straight if you let go of the steering wheel, but overall i would buy it again. fatman was not an option for me, because everything has to look "stock" to get the car through the car inspection in switzerland every two years. about the pro-motorsport engineering bump steer correction kit: pro: it does give you a smaller turning radius contra: the randalls r&p already corrects the bump steering issues. if you correct it twice, you'll end up with bump steering again. i still hope someone will make some quick steering spindles that relocate the outer tie rod closer to the pivot in the future. for the moment, i have to live with what's on the market.

i agree with you, dennis is a great guy, i have swap kit 3 from him and i like it, but KT69 wrote he already has stock power disc brakes on his car. he seems to be looking for something with more stopping power and he also thinks about a rack and pinion kit that does not increase the turning radius. if he would only be looking for a low budget break upgrade, i would recommend to get some high performance break pads for the original calipers and rotors. for example: -summit racing ultimate performance -bear decela pads -ebcbrakes redstuff 3000 -porterfield-brakes R4-S

if your looking for a front disc upgrade and a rack and pinion, you might want to take a closer look at this: http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=37 http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=38

what's the production year of the C4? if you want to pair it with a 351C, 70+ is desired (26spline input shaft) and you should think about some heavy duty upgrades if you plan to throw 500hp at it.