grendi

i totally agree, the magnum 500 look great in 15" and the torque thrust d in 16+

just checked Ford Car Shop Manual 1969 and you finally got at least something right, they did use different drum brakes on the 351+ models in 1969, but then your already wrong again because 250 (i6) and 302 (v8) share the same 5-lug brakes. (Page 2-3-2)

@Mach1Rider may i remind you of your statement: "Doing a swap from 6 to 8 cyl will require suspension, brakes, rearend, cooling and a assorted pile of other parts to complete it correctly." tossing a 351C into a 302 V8 body would need the exact same upgrades except for the motormounts.... and just for the record, you could order a 428CJ with the same 5 lug drum brakes that were common on the L-Code, even though i wouldn't consider that a good combination.

@pakrat, cool logo! i think the original shirts were made before i owned a mustang :-(

if it's got a 69 hardtop in the design, i'll buy it! i already got so many shirts with 69 fastbacks. one with all three body styles would be cool as well :-)

BULLSHIT! if he has the L-Code (250cid), a A or C-Code (289/302cid) is a direct swap, as he already has the 5 lug wheels, the 8" rearend etc. etc. etc. even the springs are correct, as long as he doesn't have AC and the car was made after 9/11/68 :detective: however, it would be true for the T-Code (200cid)

he already has a trans with a sbf bolt patterna as L and C code share the same trans, front and rear axle. if it's a C4 it might need some internal upgrades and if it's a 3 gear manual i would swap it for a T-5 if you drop in the 351C. the 8" rearend might be on the weak side as well for an underrated 330 hp pantera engine.

the unit from cj pony part looks like it's made by mustang project. http://www.mustangproject.com/Catalog.aspx?category=68642387-6653-4218-935e-89619ca5f35a⊂=f238e982-267e-40ef-96d5-47cd6aad2b01 i got an older version of this product. the new version has some nice improvements like a clicking flasher module and a white pcb. if your going with their sequencing product, make sure you get these as well: http://www.mustangproject.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?ID=ba93973b-c704-4944-be98-8041477b553f .... or if you are able to flash a pic cpu, ask me about the custom firmware :punk:

i had the randall rack and used to be more or less happy, until it started to leak after only 2-3 years (less then 2000 miles). i was trying to buy a replacement seal from randall for more then one year. then i kicked it out. tcp and flaming river claim they have stock turning radius.

i think the street or track system is a good idea, because it's adjustable. you might also want to consider reinforcing the shock towers if that has not been done yet. with 275/35R18 up front, i would drop the idea of going manual with a stockish steering box, and i would get something power steering with very little or no play. i got 235/40R18 on 8x18 up front and i had to roll the fender after doing the shelby drop with stock springs.

18x9 up front? what are you planing to do with the car? what kind of suspension do you have? what steering do you have?

not sure if the are remanufacturing them, or if they make em new, but you can buy them from the usual sources: http://www.cjponyparts.com/steering-center-link-m-s-except-boss-d-1967-1969/p/DS772/ http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=DS772+01 http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/1969_mustang_rod_assy_drag_link_steering_arm-148618-370.html etc. etc. etc.

is this what your looking for? http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-42613-Swivel-Style-Locks/dp/B001G8E3T4 http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-1472-Super-Security/dp/B000BWCFK0 http://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Motorsports-PM-1100S-Silver-Carbon/dp/B000HTO532 http://www.amazon.com/NRG-Hood-Black-Carbon-Fiber/dp/B000ED19ZS keep in mind that tubular locks have a bad reputation because....

by the way, did you mark the pushrods and lifter during the teardown? http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/14/106/article/FEs_That_Bend_Pushrods_A_Dirty_little_Secret.html

you might also want to contact barry rabotnick from survivalmotorsports.com he has a lot of parts for FE engines and is also the author of this book: http://www.amazon.de/Build-Max-Performance-Ford-Engines-Performance/dp/1934709158

if your parts car has factory disc and the calippers, brakepads and rotors are still good, all you need is to swap the spindles with brakes and maybe add a brake booster+master cylinder.

if your parts car has factory disc and the calippers, brakepads and rotors are still good, all you need is to swap the spindles with brakes and maybe add a brake booster+master cylinder.

265 "should" be exactly 10mm wider then 255. "should" because i think it's a little dependant on the brand and tire model. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/tire2.htm

i'm visiting the usa at the end of october and i will be in the LA region on that sunday before i drive to vegas for the sema show. i was wondering if anybody from this board will be at the above show, as i might put it on my schedule

make sure your aod has the right shift pattern.

in my country it would probably be cheaper to get new rims then have them sand blasted and chromed or powder coated. but those are the options that you have. i would not paint them, powder coating is more durable

18x9 with offset 24mm and then have them narrowed 1" :biggrin:

your wheel size seems to be wrong: 245/45R17 -> ~25.7"

your wheel size seems to be wrong: 245/45R17 -> ~25.7"