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Okay guys since I don't need any of this stuff any longer and hate to toss it in the garbage I figured I would offer it up.
Everything is old and worn out but some of yall might need it.
 
1. Pair Of Upper and Lower Control Arms..Ball Joints shot but good serviceable arms.
 
2. Spring Perches.. They are rebuildable if you want them
 
3. Steering Box...feels pretty tight but Shaft was cut by PO...maybe use for internal parts.
 
All Parts free to good home you pay shipping or come get them.

Just a quick little update. I know the oil drain plug picture seems useless but I screwed around with that on and off now for a month or more. The Cobra T Pan was stripped and had one of those quick fix drain plugs in it. I REALLY didn't like what it looked like and it hung way down past the bottom of the pan.
 
After trying a couple different ways/sizes to drill / tap it I finally gave up and bought a big 3/4" replacement magnetic drain plug and a proper drill/tap and took care of it. Looks much better than it did and should seal up and maybe protect the engine a little even.
 
Otherwise I have finalized the rear disc brake setup, have it all installed including the e-brake cables, pads, etc and will be ready to fill and test the brakes pretty soon. I can't believe how fast things get dirty in the garage though.
 
The brake booster is finally painted and installed along with the line lock and proportioning valve. You can't see it there but I have a Summit vacuum reservoir mounted under the drivers side fender that the booster is fed off of.
 
The Wilwood reservoir is for the hydraulic clutch master and seems to fit in there properly although a final test with the hood hinge and spring is needed.

Had the mobile media blasters in today, 7/6/2006, to clean up the front clip and inside the trunk. Nice job and saved hours and hours of stripping for me. Also have my upper arms complete with roller perches as well.
 
Bad news is I am now sure I have to replace the passenger side shock tower and front apron now. Although it appears solid it just isn't right and will come out. The apron is brazed in as well so I guess I'll figure out how to melt out a panel.
 
For more info check out the update page:
http://www.protowrxs.com/Nolen/Stang/Rebuild/2006-07-06.asp
 
-Stephen

Hi all,
I have a 70 428CJ 335 hp(?) Mach 1 Mustang. It currently has a Holley 750cfm manual choke and vacuum secondaries. (not original to the car). The original carb was 735 cfm.
The carb has to be rebuilt so I was thinking about buying a smaller cfm carb. The inside of my tailpipe is black with carbon even after adjustments and timing check. The Holley website shows that for my engine and a maximum 6000 rpm the recommended size should be 600-670cfm.
Considering the size of the original carb this sounds small to me. I don't plan on racing, except to give the local kids a hole shot now and then.
What do you think?
Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Bill

I haven't been able to get a close look at my shift rod bushings yet. Are the bushings plastic ? If so, do they make a bronze type replacement? Also, does anyone know where to get them? I looked in some of the catalogs but didn't see them ( maybe they are listed by a different name?).
 
Thanks,
Dave

Because I use many electrical components like electric water pump, fuel pump, fan, SMD box, etc. I've had to add many relays to help amp drawing issues plus I had to add distribution blocks to support all the additional connections that would normally be connected to the solenoid.  I've done all the amp draw test and only found one connection that will draw done the battery about 25% overnight.  Using an amp setting on my meter all connections show zero, like they should, except the black-yellow stripe cable, shows a .009 to .010 amp draw.  This is the original cable that has a built-in resistor at the solenoid connection and another resistor about six inches down before it goes into a wiring bundle.  So I leave the positive side of the battery disconnected until I need to use the car.
My issue is I don't know where the other end of the cable connects to, ignition switch, ignition relay, light switch, etc.  I know that if it is not connected to the positive side of the solenoid the ignition switch is dead so car does not start. 
 
Is one solutiion to cut away the original black-yellow stripe cable, which has a buil-in protection, and replace with the same gage wire with an in-line fuse?
By the way this is a drag car with a 408 stroker that has it's own mini starter with it's own solenoid and single wire 150 powermaster voltage regulator.
    

Yeah I know its not a 69 But I also know a lot of you guys also have 64-68 Cars as well so thought I would drop this on here in case anyone was wondering about it, or wanted to do it...
I have a 9" housing I could use but would still need to get a center section plus axles etc...
So after some reading and research here is what I found and why I am going to perform this swap.
The 1995 and up Explorer's have an 8.8" rear which is supposed to be almost a direct bolt in for the 67-68 cars, but the center section is offset to the driver side by almost 3", even tho the over all length is about 1/4-1/2" difference... Several people have reported that all you need to do is move the leaf spring pads and bolt it in and swap your Pinion Flange and it will work...Stories Vary on clearance in the tunnel area with regards to the 3" offset...
 
My reasoning for wanting to go to the 8.8" over the 9" is two fold... First off Price, secondly the advantages of the 8.8 from the exploders which are quite a few.
The 8.8s from the 95 and up exploders come in several gear ratios, but the most common seem to be 3.73 with Limited Slip Diff, have 31 Spline Axles, and factory Disc Brakes with internal Drum brake parking assy.
 
I recently scored a low mileage complete rear for $200.00 for the local pick and pull and they already had it pulled, and when I say complete I mean from caliper to caliper, along with the sway bar, all the parking brake cables and brake lines.. Upon inspection inside the rear looked pristine which I think is due in part to the Factory synthetic oil that is recommended and the low mileage on this one.
 
I will be shortening the long side and using a second short side axle to complete the unit.
Have never shortened an axle housing but for the price If I screw it up I can get another one and try again, but after extensive reading on the subject and talking to a local shop that has done several of these it doesn't appear to be a problem.
The guy at the local shop that has done several suggested I make my cuts, bevel the ends then clamp it up in some C-Channel on top and bottom and weld it up... he said that this is the method he has used every time and the tubes area always straight when he is done and he has not had any issues out of any of the rears, but he did state that one should take their time when making the welds and move around to prevent warping.
 
Anyhow would like to hear from any of you guys who may have done this swap.
 
Also in addition I am getting the Alum driveshaft from the same explorer and going to take it and have it shortened and balanced so I will also have a nice alum Driveshaft to go with this thing to boot haha.

It's been many years since we have had a 69stang.com t-shirt made. I could recycle the old artwork and basically do another run of the originals but we would need enough orders to make it work. I also like the idea of having a 69stang.com mug. Let me know if this is something you guys would be interested in.
 
If we can get roughly 75 of both pre-ordered that would that would be enough to place an order. T-shirts would be $25 and Mugs $15. These are rough estimates and would be cheaper with multiple orders.
 
The t-shirt would be white and could look like this

 
Or like our original tshirt

 
The mug would look similar to this on white, however we may do a black mug instead depending on what you guy's think.

I am thinking about selling my 69 GT Convertible. It is in mid restoration and I am either going to have to put it in storage or sell it. I fear that I won't get out of it what I need at this point to make selling it an option. The car is in fantastic shape. It is well optioned and is a true GT. Options: GT equipment group, A/C, FMX, trac-lok, clock, visibility group, pdb-front, PS, AM/FM (missing), interior decor group, tinted glass and front bumper guards. Originally Royal Maroon with black top and interior. The car has had a complete tear down and body work. It had acapulco blue paint applied several months ago. The paint and body work is awsome on this car. Engine is rebuilt and ready to go in. Things that are needed: FMX transmission, Drivers seat frame since the current one is bent, upholstery, carpet, dash pad and interior door panels. Assembly and a little TLC. A local mustang restoration shop quoted me 10K max to finish the car. I feel the car would be worth 40K + or so when complete. Open to realistic offers. This maybe the only time this car is for sale. Once it goes into storage it will sit until I can finish it.

The car looks really good, I look forward to seeing photos of the finished product. Unfortunately I can't do any work here, it is too damn cold -25C (-10F), Brrr.
 
Bill from Ottawa, Canada

It's not mine and it's not a '69 but it is a classic Stang.. I got it for my wife because she always wanted a 65 coupe. I got it for $1500 and drove it home. It has a good running 302, C4 and a 9 inch rear out of a '69 Mach 1 (I'm stealing that for my car!). We have took it apart and I'm in the process of welding in new floorpans and fixing other rust. Plans call for Black paint with silver stripes, 17" '98 Mustang GT wheels and black interior. Stay tuned and I will post pics as we progress.

This question concerns upgrading the front seat belts to the 3 point setup. Will the existing shoulder harness anchor point work for the upgraded 3 point setups? Any new updates on this subject as far as what works well(where to buy)? I would like to somehow keep the chrome bezel style belt mechanisms.

here are a couple of pics of the seatbelt hole on the drivers side.
 

 

 
it is aprox. 10" by 2-2.5". hope this helps.

some new pics after paint and body work http://www.1969stang.com/gallery/albums.php

Right now I have a '68 hard-top mustang with a 351 Windsor engine and a C4 trans. Engine doesn't run and supposedly the transmission was OK when it was driving. But before I put money into it I want to know if there's even still enough left to warrant getting it running. My plan was to put a 200CI I-6 in it to be able to start moving it around and fix it up.
 
It would just be a daily driver, but I wanted it to at least somewhat be safe.
There are two steel U-beam looking things under the driver and passenger floor(presumably to support the floor pans, the original pans were rusted and cut out but I got weld-in replacements, pictures are with the replacements out) the passenger side was pretty gnarled but not dead yet, driverside was pretty much gone in the bottom of the U but it was only a 1 foot section on the driver's side that seems easily enough to weld in a new piece.
 
Any advice would be great, thanks.
And this car does have some sentimental value, I got it as a 'christmas present' a few years ago from a brother but haven't had time to mess with it until now. Also, that's 98% dirt on the inside, there's hardly any rust except for the headliner, at least from sitting-in perspective.
 
http://s735.photobucket.com/albums/ww351/jbarry45/

Have seem some info on this but nothing that has worked yet. The rocker panel cage nut has 2 ears that sit on the outside but can't get it to stay in. What gives and really works???

Hey dudes--
 
I scored this mustang fastback on ebay for $700! It has a key on column and vents in door jam by the quarter panel--which I am told are signs of a '70 fastback. What is telling is the stripe on the rear quarter's original paint. It appears to have the grabber stripe. Of course, the VIN plates are long gone, as are the doors. But there is an original 2 barrel 302 intake that comes with the car, perhaps another sign. Again, it is missing VINS doors, & door tags... but given the original paint and stripe on on the rear quarter, it seems to me to be one of two things, a '70 grabber or less likely a boss. DISCUSS PLEASE:helpsmilie:
 
At any rate, after some serious work...my '69 coupe is getting a new scalp!!!:clap:

They're never really finished are they? LOL
 
I think I've found my color. While I was at Birmingham for the 45 Anniversary I saw a 69 convertible with a fantatic green. It's darker than the Jade Green. It's an Infinity color Cypress Green Pearl .. I am going to look into this one big time.

I cleaned out my garage and have a list of parts I need gone. I don't think any are worth shipping and some I don't think are worth saving, but figured I put them here before scrapping the.
 
Free
1.slapper traction bars with built in shock mounts. Good shape all and all.
2. Rusty chrome valve covers (302). Just a shade better then not having a set.
3. Set of front brake assemblies. They have fairly new cylinders. I have the drums some place. Have decent brakes. No bolts.
4.long tube headers with mufflers. Back passenger side has hole on top. They are not in very good shape.
5. Upper and lower control arms. Lowers look ok minus bushing and ball joint. No idea if they are oem or not. Uppers are in bad shape and almost didn't list them.
 
Not free but cheap.
 
1. Frint coil springs they seem in good shape took them off to put lowering springs on. Car is 302 car.
2. Front valance with side lights and chin spoiler. Valance in decent shape minus front dent. Chin spoiler in ok shape.
3. I have a arning/shelby drop template with bit. Bought it from another member. Gave 25 shipped.
4. I have a set of rocker panel trim. Looks to be oem from shape. In good shape minus a few small dents.
5. Moog upper control shock tower mounts. Has bolts, end caps, dust seals, no taps or grease fittings. More or less new.
 
The free items I do not think have enough value to ship. I am near cincinnati and I am in Dayton a few days a week. The moog, template and trim are probably the only things worth shipping. I'll get some pics of the trim tomorrow. Buyer pays shipping. Shoot me any offers on the not free parts.

Looking to take advantage of the Labor Day sales and would like to buy a set of hood hinges.
 
I like when I see them in a phosphate color but all venders are selling them in Black, so what is the correct color?
 
Could it be that the hinge is black and the springs are phosphate?

E-Mail me....njjoeh@optonline.net
 
 

My father bought this stang for me when I was 15 years old. I never ended up finishing it in high school. So i ended up putting her in storage. I am now 25 I have pulled her out and decided to give her a go.
Apparently I have done more work in the last 2 months then I have been able to do since i have had it.
anyways tell me what you think
Here is the day i pulled her from storage.

She is pretty rough "but virtually rust free underneath....

 

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Heres some new pics, finally after almost 2 years the paint is done! Time to finish this thing off and hit the road.

Hi my name is Milton I just bought a 69 Mustang, I'm wondering if I can
install power steering to the car can someone help me with this.

ok - i ended up purchasing some shelby valve covers - it was hard after all the law suits started up again with factory 5 etc. but, they look great and a legend is a legend. if i dont like them after a while, ill pick up the detomaso valve covers. i attached some bad camera phone pics - camera battery died. and yes my car/motor is over an hour away in a buddy's shop.