Xde4hewkew

I need a 351W shaker bracket (intake manifold to air cleaner base).  They're not reproduced as far as I know, other than the guy who is selling them for $275 on ebay.  Let me know if you've got one stuck away some where that you're willing to part with.
 
thanks,
Stu
 

I've heard from numerous people NOT to cut a hole in my hood and I never asked WHY?
 
I may need the clearance after I put this top end kit it plus it gets so hot under my hood. I have a boss hood scoop that's just for looks...why not make it functional?
 
Thoughts?

The bracket on the front side of the radio,  the shafts that the radio knobs are on attaches to this bracket.  It is a simple piece of stamped steel.  CJ has them for $28 plus shipping and tax, but I know someone has one in their junk pile they want to get rid of.

A while back I bought a Ivy Green 69 coupe for a parts car. I ask for the forum "Scap it or Save it", well I parted it out and ended up selling the shell and lots of parts for cheap so more Stangs might survive. I mentioned to the buyer of the shell what I was going to do with the rear if I didn't sale it. It ended up he had the rear of a 70 he would give me......well here it is completed. Plan to hook up some lights with motion sensor so brake lights come on, install trunk key and gas cap when the Mach is put back together and then hang it on the wall. Other cool thing is, my 70 convert is the same Green.

Table of Contents provided by Mach1Driver

 
3M Rust Fighter, door seam, pg28


 
alternator, DeadNutsOn, pg17

angle grinder, pg7


 
backspace, pg41

backup LED, pg31

balancing tires, pg15, 41

bellhousing/spacer plate, pg15

blocking, pg5

brake lines and flaring, pg22

buffing trim, pg28

buffing, pg37


 
calendar cover picture, pg51

caliper kit, CSRP, pg7

CalTrac pg6, 8, 45, 47

cam specs, pg6, 16

cam, pg2

car dolly, pg5

car show, pg44

carpet, pg25

cart, car, pg3, 5

cleaner/zinc, lower dash, pg10

clock cluster, pg34

clock, quartz, pg30

clutch, pg47

compressor size, pg 37

console/gauges, pg12

cowl, pg35


 
Dan & Dad, pg44

dash, pg11

deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg13

DFLP and 32586, pg30

door weights, loaded, pg5

drag tuning, pg45

dragstrip, pg45

drive line angles, pg1, 31

driveshaft loop, pg25

driveshaft, pg21

Dynaliner, pg9

Dynamat Extreme, pg9

Dynamat usage, pg 36

dyno testing, pg6

dyno, pg14


 
emblems, pg12

engine assembly pics, pg9

engine costs, pg7

engine crossmember, pg1

engine final, pg14

engine specs, pg6

engine update, pg8, 10, 11, 12

engine wire harness, pg17

engine, 1st run, pg21

engine, 418, pg8

engine, pg7

engine/trans assembly, pg16

engine/trans install, pg20

engine/trans, how to install, pg16

epoxy primer, pg39

Evapo-Rust, pg9

exhaust pics, 3”, pg30

exhaust, pg22, 24, 29, 32, 33


 
fan blade, pg1

fastener kits, pg44

filler neck fit, pg20

fire extinguisher positions, pg43

first car, pg10

flashers, pg30

flocking, pg12

floor support crossmember, pg8

flywheel/clutch, pg46

fold down seat, pg28

fold down seat, pg29, 32

FPA header problems, pg24

front fender extensions, pg5

fuel filler mod, pg 21

fuel filter, pg9

fuel gauge sender, pg9

fuel line mod, pg25

fuel line, pg9, 17

fuel system update, pg34

fuse terminals, pg30


 
gauge light tuning, pg 31

glass install, pg31

glass, pg26, 28

gotchas, pg20

guide coat, pg5, 7

gun bluing, pg6


 
header finish, pg5

headers, pg1

headlight/fender extensions, pg33

headliner, pg24

heads, pg6

heater box repair/paint, pg10

heater control bezel repair, pg11

height, pg43

hood paint wax test, pg38

hood trim, pg41-43


 
instrument regulator, pg22

Instrument Specialties, pg29

insulation, back area, pg26

insulation, pg25

interior quarter panels, pg12, 38


 
leaf spring addition, pg 46

leaf spring perches, pg 33

LEDs, dash, pg24, 25, 30, 32

license plates, pg24

line lock/rev limiter, pg12, 22

lug centric rims, pg15


 
Mastercool flaring tool set, pg23

Media blasted, car, pg1

milling intake manifold, pg13

mono-leaf springs, pg47

motor mount, pg47

mufflers, pg6

Mustang emblems, pg11


 
oil pan clearance, pg20

oil pan install, pg23

oil pan mod, pg23

overflow can, pg27, 28


 
paint booth filter, pg17

paint booth ventilation, pg13

paint booth venting, pg37

paint booth, pg5

paint colors, misc. parts, pg21

Paint Defender, pg45

paint guns, pg37

paint stripper, pg9

paint, A-pillar trim, pg25

paint, A-pillars, pg25

paint, anti-sway bar, pg6

paint, battery tray, pg6

paint, body mount locations, pg8

paint, body primer, pg5

paint, body, pg17, 18

paint, calipers, pg7

paint, Caltrac bars, pg6

paint, coil springs, pg6

paint, color test, pg3

paint, console, pg12

paint, dash outer and inner caps, pg11

paint, dash parts, pg9

paint, dash, pg10, 30

paint, doors/hood, pg14

paint, driveshaft, pg23

paint, EM brake, pg3

paint, engine and parts, pg10

paint, engine bay, pg8, 18, 19

paint, engine enamel, pg3

paint, engine, pg6, 15

paint, fan blade, pg3

paint, fiberglass panels, pg17

paint, fold down seat, pg29

paint, hood, MTF, pg41

paint, hood, pg34, 38

paint, jack, pg17

paint, leaf springs, pg6

paint, lower control arms, pg8

paint, misc. small parts, pg8

paint, outer dash trim, pg21

paint, pedal assembly, pg4, 5

paint, pinchweld, pg19

paint, radiator, pg8

paint, rear end, pg4, 21

paint, scattershield, pg7

paint, seat frame, pg17

paint, seat tracks, pg11

paint, shaker ribs, pg4

paint, shaker, pg3, 4

paint, spring perches, pg3

paint, spring stripes, pg7

paint, steering box, pg11

paint, steering column lower cover, pg21

paint, steering column wire cover, pg21

paint, steering column, pg10

paint, steering wheel trim, pg11

paint, stone deflector, base and clear, pg12

paint, strut rods, pg10

paint, trunk, pg13

paint, undercarriage, pg8, 35

paint, upper control arms, pg6

paint, wiper motor, pg9

panel gaps, pg1, 4

Parkerizing, pg4

phenolic spacer test, pg35

phosphate and oil (P&O} durability test, pg9

phosphate finish, pg4, 5

pressure plate, pg16

primer, K36, pg7

primer/blocking final, pg14


 
Quiet Ride Solutions, pg25


 
radio conversion, pg44

rear end, pg4

rear gears, pg2

rear lights, pg24

rear springs, pg6

red oxide, pg8

remetalized clock cluster, pg 29

residual valve, pg22

Rimblow Buddy cost, pg28

Rimblow/line lock, pg11

Rimblow Buddy, pg11

rubbing compound and polish, pg37, 38

rust remover, chemical, pg9


 
sail panels, pg26

sealer, inside cabin, pg9

seam sealer, pg35

seat belts, pg36

seat fabric, pg13

seats, pg34, 35

shaker fit, pg38

shaker trim fit, pg44

shaker, pg2, 3

sheetmetal replacement, pg1

sheetmetal thickness, pg37

shock extensions, pg47

shock tower reinforcement, pg22, 48

shocks, pg45

side scoop caulk, pg38

sleeper engine bay, pg20

Slide On Application Gel, pg42

sound deadener SF, pg9

sound deadener, inside cabin, pg9

sound deadener, pg26, 35

sound deadener, rear wheelwells, pg8

sound deadener, roof, pg8, 9

sound deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg25

sound deadening on quarters, pg38

sound test, pg37

space saver spare tire, pg43

spark plug looms, pg49

Spectrum Second Skin, pg13

splash shields, pg26

spray gun, pg12

Ssnake Oyl, pg36

stabilizer bar fitment, pg23

stance, pg26

steering impression, pg40

stripes, pg42, 43

subframe connectors, pg1

suspension install, pg19


 
tach mount, pg 22

tail light bulbs, pg24, 30

TFS hi port heads, pg3

TIG, pg36, 37

timing mod, pg24

tools, sheetmetal forming, pg7

trailer tie downs, pg39

trap door, pg28

trunk catch, pg23

trunk finished, pg25

trunk, pg32


 
upper control arms, pg6


 
valve covers, pg6, 17

venting, fuel tank, pg49

video, 1st time on street, pg39

video, drag, pg46

video, drive, pg40

video, driving, pg32

video, in driveway, pg31

video, rear suspension, pg46


 
water pump, pg9

water shield, pg38

Weatherpak connector, pg23

weight, pg47

wheel/tire combo, pg47

work table, pg37


 
z-bar, pg1

z-bar rework, pg23

zinc phosphate, hood hinges, pg7

zinc phosphate, hood latch, pg7


 
 
i had posted this on another forum (non-mustang) a few weeks ago and it seemed only appropriate that it should really exist on a 69 mustang forum...
 
here is a summary of what has been completed over the course of the last 1.5 years....
 
 
i had just finished making the rotisserie and moved the car off the temporary dolly. i was pretty nervous the first time i flipped this car around!
 

 
after a lot of structural metal work, i media blasted the car
 

 
made my own set of subframe connectors. nothing on the market was what i wanted.

 
replaced more sheetmetal. both sides, outer wheelhouses, trunk floors, quarter panels, not to mention all the patch panels...


 
finished fitting the doors, trunk lid, quarter extensions, valance. then glazing, sealing and fill priming...

 

 
i've been working on mocking up the engine, transmission, cooling, etc. TFS high ports, scattershield and a victor junior have created a challenge. finally finished up the clutch linkage, modifying the headers (had to completely relocate two tubes. i've sliced up the shaker and have finally have a legitimate plan to fit it under the hood and retain the vacuum system and external appearance. it's about 1/2" high in the picture.

 
 
 

I have a intermittent wiper switch and control taken from a 1990 Ford Truck.  It works perfect in the 1969 to 1973 Mustangs and cougars.  No wires to cut, it just plugs into the existing harness in your old Mustang or Cougar.  Turn it clockwise, and it works like a normal wiper switch.  Turn counterclockwise, and it is in the intermittent operation from 1 to  20 seconds.  This has  been tested and 100% guaranteed to work perfect.  If you want it, I will include the black knob for no charge.  If you want the chrome knob, add $5 to the price.  The Chrome knob is from a later 1970s, Ford, it is not correct for 1969 or 1970 Mustang. 

Pair of Convertible Boot Hockey Stick Moldings for 1969-1970 Mustangs used re-chromed not concourse.
These are the moldings at the top of the quarter panel at the base of the convertible top. Includes stud and nut mounting kit. Sold as a pair $100.00us Plus freight ex NZ.
 
Attached Thumbnails  

69 Steering wheel pad. Used but nice condition.. I believe its for a rim blow steering wheel. $100 OBO

I'm looking for a section of brake line that goes from the passenger side engine compartment, into the passenger side wheel well, and connects the the passenger side brake hose.  This is for front disk brakes.

This is obviously not original to early Mustangs, but it a great feature to add.  Rear view mirror from 1990 Ford.  When connected, both lights turn on dim when the door is opened or interior lights are on.  You can also use the switches on the front to turn the lights on bright.   I see these on ebay for way too much, but want to recover my costs, so the price will be $49, including shipping. 

Hello friends .

 

doing it several months I look for contacts (back) to my steering wheel 3 spoke deluxe 69 mustang,



I joined you a picture ....

could you help me in my research or if you know a friend in the US who could help me even if c is used ..
I'm in France, hard to find Horn Contact
Thank you for your help

isap77 (Rob)

Thanks! - I like them much better than they way they came myself.
 
I didn't realize you had it torn down that much but glad to see it getting closer.
 
I'm thinking I'm real close to installing the lower dash as well since I can't really run the inside harness without it. The dash needs cleaning, re-painting and detailing though. I'm still not sure what color to use. It looks like a dark metalic grey or black or something??
 
-Stephen

I need a radio bracket, the one in front the knobs get attached to.  NOT the plastic one, the metal one.   CJ has them for $26, but somebody probably has one in their junk pile.
Thanks
Danno

This is on a 70 Mach 1, no tach. I have two wires that don't seem to have a place to connect to. Any suggestions?
 
The first has two wires, one blue (or maybe gray?) and one black. The second has one green wire and isn't the A/C.
 

Swapping my 69 door glass now all I need is glass, lol
 
Looking for some nice sun-x tinted FB door glass please PM me or email to dcjones4@roadrunner.com
 
Thanks!

Quick update.. been hanging out with my Dad... So Andy is getting the 69 ready to make the mustang show in Savannah.. Trying to get setup for the track day... So Andy swapped the brembo calipers to the correct side with bleeders straight up!!
Still loving the vintage venom kit!
 
intermittent blinker problem is in the NEW turn signal switch... so still working it out.

Looking for a replacement trans for my 69 351W Mach1.  The motor is stock so I don't need anything stronger than OEM. Anyone here ever bought a C4 from TCI?   Any other trans rebuilders out there for a C4?  Thanks,  Ray

This is an old topic from me, but when reviewing my signature links for dead pictures I realized I never created an actual thread about it here on 69stang (just on the VMF). For those that enjoy fabricating their own stuff to save money, I've created a PDF with dimensions to create your own eccentric eliminators. Its really easy to do as long as you can accurately centerpunch and drill the holes. Once one plate is made, use a transfer punch using the completed plate onto the 2nd plate. Harbor Freight has transfer punches in case you don't have any, they are handy when replicating parts.
 
Attached below is the PDF as well as pics below, not of the actual fab'd plates but of what the aftermarket versions look like.
 
The numbers on the drawing are intended to be stamped into the plate so that you can keep track of the orientation of each plate. The numbers are sequential to the slight changes in camber. There is also a small hole drilled near the lower left corner, also to help with orientation. I also notice many have updated their plates to only include 2 holes. I only have the 3 hole version, but if someone has the two hole one I'd be curious how the dimensions measure up. My guess is they don't allow for as fine of camber adjustments as the 3 hole does.






Eccentric Eliminator Plate.pdf

I picked up a brand new high torque mini starter at a swap meet several years back. I was told it was for a FE, but after trying to test fit it on a FE motor earlier today, it doesn't fit. A search seems to indicate that it is actually for a 69-73 351 as the only number listed on it is WAI 79-2114. I honestly have no idea what it fits at this point and was ready to just throw it out. But I figured I would offer it up for free to anyone who wanted it. You can pick it up in SW Florida (Fort Myers area) or pay the ride (flat rate shipping box would probably be best due to the weight). Will come with a brand new wiring kit as well.
 
 

Hello Rcodenewf,
Thanks for the advice. I checked the torque converter bolts to the dust shield plate and rotated the engine by hand watching the four TQ bolts go by and they are definitely not hitting. The starter is clear of the flywheel and is not rubbing. Ohh yea, the NO WATER. I only ran it for a minute/minute and a half to check it - I agree, don't run it long. Just didn't want to put it all in if I had to take the engine back out again.
 
Thanks, quarkdude

Selling my 1969 mustang coupe, roller car $3,200 obo
Clean ca title
4 drum brake car
Power steering
Originally an a/c
Cowl hood
New 15 inch wheels with Mickey Thompson drag radials
Complete interior (really good shape)
Very little rust, just surface rust in the trunk and behind the passenger rear wheel
Vinyls top
Needs paint and motor and trans and your good to go
Also some extras that I have not listed
Call me or email or text me with any questions
7076736058 Located in Fairfield, California

I'm almost ready to put the AOD in my '70 Vert, all I have left to buy is a crossmember and torque converter. The convertibles have the reinforcement plate that connects the floor pans and the exhaust runs above it (I have 2.25" exhaust). I want to get a crossmember that will give enough clearance for the exhaust to still go above the reinforcement plate. What have you had success with?
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

I am in the process of removing the steering linkage & box from my 69 Coupe so I can finish removing the undercoating & old paint from the frame, shock towers, & the inner fender panels so I can repaint it, & replace the worn out parts. My problem is I have everything unbolted but the drop bracket will not come off the frame. I am confused I removed the 2 bolts that go into the riv nuts in the bottom of the frame, & the bolt that goes through the frame snapped but the bracket will still not come off. HELP please.

I don't know which timing tab location and whether I need a 3 bolt or 4 bolt?
 
Block is a '69 and crank is a 4.100 Scat.
 
 
 

New to the forum here, but I have been reading for a while now. I just pick up a 69 fastback from a guy who was trying to make a semi drag car out of it. He installed some aftermarket gauges, one which hardline the oil pressure gauge into the aftermarket gauge. I'm trying to go back to stock with the gauge, or at least get rid of the hardline from the block to the gauge. What route should I go? Buy a new sending unit and wire to plug into my factory gauge. This is my first build and I'm a little lost due to all the junk and crappy wiring that has been installed. I have attached a picture of the oil pressure extension and hardline.