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BillC

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Posts posted by BillC

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I’m selling my 1970 Mach1 428CJ. Yellow with black interior, Factory AC, Auto, PS, Power disc brakes with new calipers and master cylinder, sport seats, fold down rear seat, tach, Factory tinted windows, rear louver with spoiler, etc, etc. 77,100 miles.Accident history in 1988 to left rear quarter professionally repaired. Always a California car until I bought it last year.  $49500 or best offer. Car is located in Spring Hill, Florida. 

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  3. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

    Glad to hear it works.  If it's the same Tachman I am thinking of , not so happy to hear you used him.  I had a horrible experience with The Tachman.  I purchased a refurnished speedo from him.  First it smelled of cigarettes so bad I had to let it air out in my back yard for a week.  Then after installing it, the odometer moved 1 tenth and jammed up.  He accused me of installing the speedo cable wrong or using a poor quality reproduction speedo cable.  I mentioned it was an NOS Ford speedo cable but he didn't care.  I didn't want to deal with him anymore or use anything that came from him so I purchased another speedo from Perogie Enterprises.

    Sorry to hear that. Not sure if it's the same guy but no cigarette smell on the tach anyway. 

  4. Posted · Report reply

    UPDATE....got the tach back from the Tachman.com and got it installed. It works great! As it turns out he did not convert it to a three wire. Instead he said the tach was in great shape, except for the part needed, so he returned it to the original wiring plug. The overhaul is guaranteed for three years and he said the electrical components made today will outlast me. I hope so. 

  6. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, jholmes217 said:

    A lot of aftermarket distributors and ignition boxes need a full 12 volts to operate correctly, such as MSD, Petronix 2 and 3, etc.  To do this, the resister wire in the ignition had to be bypassed or eliminated.  If you don't do this correctly, it can mess up the factory tach, and this may be why you have the problem your facing now.  This is why I prefer Mallory Unilite distributors.  They don't need 12 volts, and work fine with the resistor wire in place.  My original 428 Cobra Jet 4 speed distributor is wrapped up and stored in the garage for safe keeping in case I want to go back to it for a restoration at a later date.  For now, I'm enjoying electronic ignition that works with the resister wire, works with the factory tach, and is short enough to work with a oval air cleaner.  Disregard the ballast resistor or the right side in the picture.  It's disconnected.

    Thanks for the reply. From what I understand so far it appears that the 3 wire conversion allows me to run the RED wire to positive,  the BLACK wire to a ground, and the GREEN wire is run through the firewall to the negative (-) side of the coil. I must also cut the original RED and BLACK wire and twist them together just the way I found it.

    Does this seem like the correct wiring connections to you?

    Thanks again,

    Bill

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Mach1 and 1969_Mach1,

        I packed up the tach and shipped it off this morning to be converted to three wire. I'm not too shiny with electrical wiring but I'm told it's not difficult to do. I hope so. Anyway thanks very much for the help. I'll write back in two weeks when the tach comes back and let you all know how it's going.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    28 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    If you go to How to's, A REAL Schematic, page 1, you'll see that the tach is in the line between the ignition switch terminal C and the resistor wire powering the coil. On non-tach cars the resistor wire connects to terminal C. Components in the tach can fail and leave you without power to the coil, which is apparently what happened and the PO connected the wires together to bypass the tach. Hopefully someone on here can tell you who repairs them.

    Edit: Oops I see someone snuck in a reply before I did.

    Thanks for the reply Mach, Do you think the 69 REAL schematic is the same as my 70 as far as the tach is concerned?

    Thanks, Bill

  10. Posted · Report reply

       My 70 Mach1 428CJ's in dash tach didn't work when I bought the car. When I removed the instrument panel to replace the printed circuit and bulbs I found the tach wires (red and black) were cut. The red and black wires going to the firewall were stripped and twisted together. Once I soldered the cut wires back together the way they should be, I tried to start the car without the tach plugged into the connector. It wouldn't start. I used a jumper lead to connect the red and black wires again, the way I found it, and it fires right up. I've heard that something inside the tach can go bad and leave you stranded on the road. If this is true, I think someone, instead of fixing the tach, just twisted the wires together and put the panel back together.

    My question is...does this sound like the problem? Can something inside the tach go bad and leave you stranded? Can you recommend a repair company to check/ repair the tach? 

    BTW, this car has an automatic trans and AC if that matters.

    Thank you,

    Bill

  12. Posted · Report reply

    OK....It's confession time. I had assumed the collar and washers were a necessary part of the tilt system since they were installed when I got the car. They are not. A mechanic friend of mine came over and screwed in the lever and operated the tilt normally! Because it is a new turn signal switch and still very stiff, I was afraid to put too much pressure on it to get the tilt to work. He wasn't afraid. I thought I would break the lever off inside the switch so I went easy. He did not. Long story short, the tilt works fine. I'll probably never know why the previous owner(s) put the collar and washers on the lever. The old switch tilt worked fine.  Anyway, sorry to bother you guys with this. It was my fault and I'm glad it had a happy ending.

    Bill

  13. Posted · Report reply

    It looks like the turn signal lever is the same for tilt or not. It's as though the turn signal switch is not seated down far enough to actuate the tilt mechanism without using the collar. I got the car like this and just replaced the turn signal switch. Now I have the same problem the previous installer had. The switch is screwed in tight as far as it will go and I also noticed that the turn signal lever is difficult to screw in because the switch doesn't seem to be down far enough. That appears to be the reason a collar was added to the lever...to make up the difference. Is that as clear as mud?

    Would anyone have an exploded diagram of the tilt column so I can see what is up with this thing?

    Thanks,

    Bill

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Hey guys,

      I have a 70 Mach 1 with a tilt column.  When replacing the turn signal switch I removed the turn signal lever and found someone had made up a plastic collar with two washers that go over the lever where it actuates the tilt. Without the collar in place the tilt won't work. My question is, is there a turn signal lever just for the tilt column or is there something else wrong. I bought the shop manuals but they don't show anything.

    Thanks for any insight.

    Bill

     

     

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  15. Posted · Report reply

    Just did a simple search on google, 1970 ford mustang shop manual. Found Cj pony and The Motor book store has them in sets.

    Do not buy the chilton junk.

    r

     

    I did buy all 5 of the Shop Manuals from CJPony. Very little assembly info for the Mustang. Each manual has twelve different Ford models in them leaving little room for the Mustang info.

    It sounds like the Ford Assembly manuals are the best choice followed by the Osborn(because of the watermark)

    Thanks,

    Bill

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Mark,

    I went through this when wheels were changed from 14" to 15".

    Here's a simple way to determine the correct speedo gear.

    I used a GPS to get the correct speed. Take your speedo cable out of the transmission. Count the teeth on the gear. Add teeth if speedo reads too fast. One tooth equals 5 mph. Deduct teeth if speedo is too slow.

     

    P.S. Change the gear retainer while your doing the gear. They are very brittle and will probably break when you remove the gear.

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