Caseyrhe

Shouldn't batt side of coil have power when ign in on position

If it is the soilinode causing the issue, might explain why there were 2 more in the boxes of parts that came with car.

Starter only stays engaged when ign is turned to right all the way, disengages when ign is at on position. Since I got car together, and running, some time when starting, motor would turn over then starter would come of flywheel and starter motor just spin

Need some help. Started my Mach today after installing new fan and shroud, when I went to turn off the ignition, car kept running. I tapped the top of the starter solenoid and it shut off. I did this because of issues I've had since getting the car, starter not engaging (popping out) onto flywheel. Problem, car now turns over, starts to fire, but as soon as you would normally disengage ign switch it will not stay running. If you leave ign engaged and depress on gas pedal, engine revs up. Replaced solinoid with a new one, get same results. Car doesn't have the instrument cluster in, but didn't earlier today when it started. Plug for tach has power when ign turned on, both side of circuits at fuse panel have power with ign on, except the smallest fuse for instr light?, either side. Should batt side of coil have power with ign on, does not currently.

Light blue wire goes thru housing , up tunnel, and connects at fire wall. Single wire. Male end has a squared off rubber housing

You can also buy the glue on badges

Jay, measured mine, looks like 6 1/2" from front of scoop, 13/16" from bottom. See pictures

It's the single strand wire. Any reason why you think it would be cut? Can't fing other end either.

My 390 sat rebuilt for approx 8 years. Before doing anything I rented a scope to check inside all the cylinders checking for rust and ?? I then proceeded to fog the cylinders, let it sit for 2 days and fogged again. I then squirted some thirty weight in each cylinder, let sit for 1 day before turning over by hand, primed the oil system using an old disb shaft, and used the starter to turn it over till oil pressure built up, installed plugs, then fired her up. Oh course she smoked due to the oils I put in, but after a brief moment smoke stopped, reached operating temps, broke in cam, shut down, changed oil/filter, then ran compression test, all good. Everyone will have their own opinion, but mine on the head gaskets would be if no rust apparent in coolant, then gaskets should be fine. I would replace all gaskets you mentioned, valve covers, oil pan, distrib and intake, only if changing. While you have the pan off, I would also change the rear main seal, there's a real good chance it dried out, got brittle, and will leak. If your running an automatic, go ahead and change the front seal, pan gasket, rear seal, and o ring on fill tube. I feel the most important of all the above is priming the oil system prior to starting, flushing all the junk to the pan/filter, then changing oil shortly there after starting. Fogger available at auto zone, don't use WD-40

No, on the tiger...MG. was at the place I bought the car from. The SCJ was my first car, had the name of "The BlueGhost" It was involved in a street race in 69 where the Camaro crashed and it killed the guy. Sat in a Whouse for years after that and was slowly picked apart. When I got it it had the locker, 390 and auto. Every owner (5) that had her after the original owner had seen eyes staring at him from the instrument cluster or wasted the front fenders. I never experienced the eyes glaring at me, but did mysteriously take a hard right one day and crashed it. Rather than sale the car like the previous owners, I repaired her and restored her back to a 428 and 4 speed Unfortunately I sold her in 86 for 5000.00 and have been kicking myself everyday. Like I said, 110,000 across Barret Jackson and supposivly a 1 of 1 car. Goes to show, you just never know. The car today still carries the Texas license plate 428 SCJ

No Sir, going back the way she was built

New to the site and have already benefited from it and given back some as well. My newest project is a 69 Mach 390, auto with factory ac, ps, and pb. Will be going back all original including the color, being black Jade and black int. I'm hoping this one will replace that lost feeling of the 69 Mach 428SCJ Drag pack car I owned in HS, then selling it in 85 due to not ever driving it and my parents telling me to come get it out of their driveway. The 70 vert I finished last year didn't due it, the 68 J code coupe A start to finish in 8 months didn't do it either, so maybe this FE Mach will. It took me 1 1/2 years of bugging the guy before he finally caved and sold it to me, finally!! I will be using Triple F for the paint and body, same restoration company that did my 70 Vert. Plan to get it to them in a few weeks, in which they will have it for 8-9 months. During that time while she's away, I will be cleaning, polishing chrome, restoring dash and gauge components, carpeting fold down, and.......... Check out my gallery for other cars in the stable and the Mach's progress. Plan is to have her ready for the first 2017 local car shows.

Dido on all prior post, used CJ for my 70 vert, 68 J code, and now my 69 Mach. NPD will have lower prices but shipping sky rockets the total cost in comparison. Will order what they do have in stock on one ticket, then turn around and order all b/o items so entire order isn't help up. I recently heard about Mustang Market for door panels, upholstery, and carpet, all licensed Ford repops, lower price including shipping. Order all parts needed on Sun evening, receive that week, install, and order more for the following weekend.

Thanks Brian. Am I measuring correct, center of fan to end of blade x 2 to get dia. Or Ido you use other points to measure

Quarter panel extension seal, 7.00 from CJ for the pair

I'd appreciate the pic. Can you measure from center of fan to outer blade edge to get a diameter length?

Thanks, I'll ck that

Anybody have a clue what and where this wire connects to? Currently building my recently purchased 69 Mach from out of boxes. So far all lights, all dash instruments/tach, blower motor, and wipers work.....have yet for it to light up with test light. Any help or direction would be great appreciated.

I had to drill out the hole a little as to not risk cracking scoop, epoxied in metal inserts, and then ran screws in to insure threads where clear. I then had to slightly taper the bottom side of the blinker housing to clear the newly installed insert.

My 69 is just the opposite of Brian's

Hopefully you bagged and labeled the bottom spacers so it goes back like it was. May want to make sure the frame nut is still in place for rear bottom fender as well

Need to put light buckets on to fenders first, using the rubber gasket that goes between the two. The top inner bucket bolt/nut is easier to get to with fender off

Correct, and blinker actually has a clip in holder, below radio, top right side of heater/ac control

That's what I was thinking, tried the brass ones for "furniture" but brass top slot for flathead broke off. Will figure it out. Thanks for your help, Ford owners think alike.