Sean D

That’s a very clean installation 

All thank you for your help. I borrowed another meter and now move constant voltage at 14.6v.... thank goodness as I was about to loose my mind. Again thank you all.

All thank you for your help. I borrowed another meter and now move constant voltage at 14.6v.... thank goodness as I was about to loose my mind. Again thank you all.

When I tried to install an RPM Air Gap on my 69 Mach 1 with a 351W.  When using a carb with a choke tower I could not get the air cleaner lid low enough.  The air cleaner lid was contacting the choke tower and/or choke plate before I could get enough hood clearance.
I've removed the choke tower from Holley carbs in the past for hood clearance reasons.  One benefit of going that route is you can leave the choke mechanism on the side of the carb and still have fast idle when cold.  Many Holley carbs run rich enough so that the choke tower and choke plate are not needed.
The GM RPM Air Gap is the same height as the Performer RPM.  It would have been nice if Edelbrock put that same effort into the Ford RPM Air Gap.

Thanks everyone for their opinions and help. I have never installed an engine before so I was asking for advice, and am thrilled with the ideas here! Let us be calm and not pick at each other, as we all have information the share. It is up to the person that asked the question to decipher it all and make their own decision(s). 
Engine goes in today, with the help of my father (68) and son (23)! So looking forward to it, not only getting it done, but the time spent with three generations!
I will report back with results, time it took, and hopefully picture with it installed.

One other thought is to make sure wherever the ground wires are bolted on be sure to sand & clean the area of contact don't just rely on the bolt threads for a solid ground, then touch it up with some engine bay paint & cover it with dielectric I like using grounding blocks it gives you more connections in the future.
I have a set of 16' Fluke cables that I can reach any point on the car to check continuity from all grounding points. I went through the car making sure I had continuity from neg battery  to every grounding point I could find, I found several with poor connections. 
A bit off topic our last boat the PO had connected 12v grounds to the bonding side (120 volt system) & 120 volt grounds to some 12v grounds this led to stray current in the water when plugged into shore power which could have killed someone in the water or me in the bilge if there was water present. It took me several days of sorting out wires to get it correct.  
4 AWG wire is plenty for your system here's a good calculator to to determine amp loss of anysize wire.
http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=0.8152&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=10&distanceunit=feet&amperes=60&x=86&y=18

Two good grounds like you, and I, have should be enough. But another wouldn't hurt, and too much is not enough. 

I would also not use the fake regulator.   I typically run a ground wire (#4) from the starter to block bolt to the frame.   I am not a fan of firewall grounds, the metal is thin, and typically people use sheet metal screws or self tapping screws that can come loose.  The starter is where all the current flows, it is by far your biggest amperage draw.   
The negative battery terminal to engine block is also fine.   That should work out well.
The in line (MIDI) fuse is essential, so good job there.
I am running a 140 amp alternator with a trunk mounted battery, so mine is a bit more complicated.  You can look at my build thread to see the details.
Good luck!
 

You need a ground wire to the firewall or some other place on the chassis.  This provides a ground for the rest of the car, e.g. instrument cluster, lamps on the outside of the car, etc.

I am running a 3G alternator.  There is one wire, and in my car, it goes to my engine bay power distribution block.  The alternator is bolted to the engine, and the engine is grounded to the frame.  So, no other grounds needed.  
Do your 3G alternator instructions indicate there should be a dedicated ground?

My 1969 351W still has the passenger side lower radiator hose setup.  Knowing what I do now, I kind of wish I converted it to a drivers side lower radiator hose setup when I built it.

If the hose specifies with A/C it would be for a 24" radiator.

My hose, which is for a 1970 Mustang with 24" radiator. This is the drivers side, lower hose.   Gates 20609.
 
 

I had the exact same problem with my last date.

Everyone really tries to help on this forum, and is quite appreciated by myself and probably the majority of people. Barnett in particular has given great advice, you just have to understand the written form to personalities! And use the information however it comes! Keep it up guys! And again thank you!

Everyone really tries to help on this forum, and is quite appreciated by myself and probably the majority of people. Barnett in particular has given great advice, you just have to understand the written form to personalities! And use the information however it comes! Keep it up guys! And again thank you!

Well, what are you going to be doing, and is it OK if it doesn't look like a conventional coil? The first one is for high vibration like off road or marine applications, the second gives more current, and the 3rd and 4th are for high RPM and long duration like road course or circle track. 
Personally I wouldn't go with any of those, and if I wanted to stay with MSD I'd go with their Blaster 2.

I've tried several coils MSD Blaster II, FOMOCO & Acell HiPo 45,000 volt right now I have the Acell in there now.
I would go with the Blaster II.
I have similar rails by Ford Racing for spark plug wire routing in the pic above by barnet best rails I've ever had keeps them separated but best of all you never need to search where each wire is going they are in order from bottom to top where they exit 1= #1 cyl, 2= #2 cyl etc.
I can change a dizzy cap in 5 mins without chasing any wires. If you make your own wires they can be cut to the exact length for a clean looking setup without any chance of spark jump.   

the anti vibration coil is good for street apps, but if you wanted to spend more money and/or have a different look, you can use the other styles. if you use a long coil wire, you can mount the coil on the firewall if you wanted.
i sometimes use aluminum cable guides also for a more custom look.
 

Sean, that looks exactly like the Contour dual electric fans I am putting in my 69 Coupe. I trimed off the stock mounting tabs & used some aluminum angle to mount the fan assembly to the radiator. 

Can someone tell me what the blue bullet female connector is for on the 69 taillight harness and where does it connect too?

9" pumpkins are going for 475.00 around here in N Texas

Hi Barnett 368,
Any update?

Update. I ended up going with PS Engineering wheels. 17x8 4.5" backspace with 245/45 On front and 17x9 5.25 backspace with 255/45 On rear. Was a bit worried about clearance on rear with 275/40, but will get them once these wear out. What do you all think? 17s do not look like to much rim on these classic muscle cars?

Update. I ended up going with PS Engineering wheels. 17x8 4.5" backspace with 245/45 On front and 17x9 5.25 backspace with 255/45 On rear. Was a bit worried about clearance on rear with 275/40, but will get them once these wear out. What do you all think? 17s do not look like to much rim on these classic muscle cars?