Sean D

What do you all think about these trans am engineering superlite 17x8 wheels on a 69 Mach 1? Go with 255/45zr17 on rear, and 245/45zr17 on front. I know you can fit wider in back but at 10 inch section width the 255 is only 0.9 inch less wide than 275 at 10.9 section width. I like how the spokes have more curve out towards the outer edge more than most other makes (which tend to have straighter spokes). Not planning to race the car, but want more tread on the ground for better handling than my magnum 500 15x7. Aslo looking for the trans am look. Naturally I think they would look great but would like everyones honest opinions?

Grendi - picture is worth 1000 words, so if you do not mind please share your setup. Yes this is my acceleration pedal, which is a 69 version. The 70 version is different than the 69 where the 70 has the plastic bushing on the cable that pushes into the pedal linkage opening. 70 version is like first pic with blue plastic bushing. 69 version is like 2nd and 3rd picture.

Does anyone have any pictures of correct battery cable routing? Preferably the 70 big block heavy duty 4g wires with the extra lug on the cable that attached to the fender apron along with the voltage regulator? This below topic covered it, but the pictures are no longer visible.

Brandi- are you replacing the clevis that comes with the lokar cable with the item in your picture?

Brandi- are you replacing the clevis that comes with the lokar cable with the item in your picture?

Thanks Machm1970.

Hey all you 69 stangers....anyone install a Lokar Accelerator Pedal? It seems quite a bit more stout than the stock/OEM pedal. Do you still have the installation instructions, as I cannot find a copy online? I really want to know if the bracket that bolts to the firewall use the stock pedal holes (looks like it does)? Also does it use the stock throttle cable hole, as I would rather not drill another hole through the firewall.

Excellent thank you Matt I look forward to the picture.

Thank you for the reply. So you did not use the clevis that comes with the Lokar throttle cable Kit? Also do you mind telling me if you had to make any adjustments where the cable goes through the Firewall? Picture if you have a minute?

I already have a Lokar TV cable with holley carborator braket so a Lokar throttle cable will bolt up nicely. The Lokar throttle cable looks much more solid than the stocker oem throttle cables. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-bag-6117?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-lokar&gclid=Cj0KEQjw9YTJBRD0vKClruOsuOwBEiQAGkQjP9nTMYwVfKXtAPDR5L51s86t1Sj6M3DNXAMhRVfYxcwaAuym8P8HAQ Has anyone installed a Lokar Throttle Cable? And if so what did you do to make the clevis on the Lokar cable end to work with your factory accelorator pedal arm?

I went with the Strange rear end and axles when I swapped out my c6 with a AOD. True Trac with 3.70 gear 31spline.

All, Future plan is to swap the existing 351C with a 351W in my 69 Mach1, but for now I am keeping the 351C. I need to replace my radiator and want to get a passenger side bottom inlet in preparation for the 351W. Question is, is there a passenger side inlet water pump that will fit the 351C? If not, can I use a 351W passenger side water pump on the 351C? Or should I just keep the driver side water pump on the 351C for now, and just fabricate a hose to accommodate the new radiator with the passenger side bottom inlet? Thought please?

Thank you for the reply and information. It is much appreciated. I was thinking the 5/16 one as well.

All, I am in the process of collecting the parts for my AOD swap. Can anyone tell me what slot size is needed for the 69 OEM shifter linkage bolt to the transmission arm? I want to use the fully adjustable one from Lokar: http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/autotrans-access-parts/accessparts-product-pgs/fordaod-selctarm.html Lokar offers two sizes that would be based on the bolt size from the stock shifter bolt at the transmission. Can anyone tell me which one to use? ATA-1000 Ford AOD Selector Shaft and Arm 1/4" slot and hole ATA-1001 Ford AOD Selector Shaft and Arm 5/16" slot

Since the C6 is longer than the C4, FMX and AOD, wouldn't it require a longer drive shaft since I will be replacing the C6, which has a shorter drive shaft right?

Hello everyone, I have a 69 Mustang with a stock 70 351C and C6 transmission. I think the C6 is on its last leg and am considering a AOD swap, or spend ~$1000 on c6 rebuild (beefed up for future rebuild). In the future I am thinking 351W stroker 408 with about ~500 hp so the transmission would need to handle the hp. Or just build the cleveland to ~500 hp, but can decide later as that is a few years away. I see a lot of articles online and in this forum about converting c4 or FMX transmissions to AOD and that there are parts and conversion kits available for such. Also most of these conversion kits are for 289, 302 and 351W. But I cannot find much information or conversion kits for my 70' 351C and C6 to AOD (with 4r70w internals for longevity and increased hp capacity). Can you all knowing owners please point me to some information or list of parts needed for this type of swap. Can I use the 351w parts? What about the yoke and drive shaft? Thank you, Sean

The TCP suspension and steering were more of examples and I will consider SoT as well. I have one opinion to jump into the suspension first, and one that doesn't like crate engines. Anyone else have an opinion on starting with suspension steering upgrades first or engine and drive train?

Waking this thread back up, as I have been dealing with brake issues the past few months. Not enough vacuum (only 15 hg vacuum) in the all original cleveland to keep up with around town power assist braking. Ahhhhh! But I think I have decided to go with a 351W stroker (427) with the dart block. The one at Smeding will give 460 hp and 510 torque, which is probably a bit over kill but I always wanted an 69 with semi resto-mod look, feel, and drivability. Plan to drop all the original power steering and suspension too, and install the Total Control Product system that will include rack and pinion, coil over front and upgrade leaf spring rear suspension, and front and rear upgraded anti-roll bars. May through in their rear torque arm if needed. http://www.smedingperformance.com/ford/427+Windsor+460+Horsepower.html http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/fcss-fd.html http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/rack.html http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/LSS-M1X.html Yes both the engine swap and steering/suspension swap will cost an upwards of $10000 each, so now my question for all you guys/gals, if I had to pick one to do first, do I jump into the engine swap first or concentrate on the steering and suspension first? Remember I have a completely drive able vehicle right now so I can go both ways.

So 69/70 mustangs with a console and automatic transmission; the shift indicator light wiring connects to the console wiring? For some reason I thought that the shift indicator light wiring connected to the bundle of wires coming out of the firewall in the engine compartment. For example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/122013583868?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Why do you think that the residual is in the MC? I read that most do not come with and especially when the description from MU states power disk.

Hello everyone, Was wondering if anyone can give me some advice. I purchased the following master cylinder: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=F71248+01 and do not know if it has a residual valve or not. Since the description says for power breaks, I doubt it does. Is there a way to check to determine if it has one or not? Here is my current setup: No customization and all is stock power brakes with single piston front disks and drum rear brakes...bendix power booster, and the right 69 pedal, distribution block and proportioning valve: https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/distribution_block_and_proportioning_valve_assy_exact-186692-0.html I have replaced the MC with the one indicated above, replaced front brake lines, re-did the entire rear drums including slave cylinder, pads and drums, as well as new front calipers. Here is my problem: with the car off the breaks are hard without having to pump the pedal, which would indicate no air in the system...btw I had gone through a gallon of fluid to ensure no air. When I turn the car on the pedal drops multiple inches and half way to the floor. When driving I slam on the breaks and no wheel lock up, just slowly come to a stop. While troubleshooting, and car running I plugged the rear port at the MC and break pedal drops, but when I plug the front at the MC the breaks are hard with the car running. Will a 10lb residual valve on the rear line between the MC and distribution block help this? Also, not sure what size bore the MC is and mustang unlimited could not tell me. Anyone know or have a guess?

Bob, I am thinking about doing this exact setup on my 69 Mach 1. My mach already has power breaks, front single piston disk and rear drum, with a bendix booster and factory style MC. I am installing wilwood 4 piston front next weekend, and would like to upgrade to the wilwood MC and proportioning valve. I will need the 10lb residual pressure valve between the MC and proportioning valve too. Do you or anyone know how much vacuum is required with these 9" boosters? Funny thing is CJPony parts says that these wilwood MC are manual only and not for power, but Wilwood says they are for both. http://www.cjponyparts.com/wilwood-master-cylinder-kit-tandem-aluminum-black-with-7-8-bore-1965-1973/p/BMC50/ What wilwwod MC did you get? 7/8" bore? Also, am I missing anything? Can I PM or email you for additional advice? Sean

Rsmach1 the switch is in the floor shifter in mustangs with an FMX, but not for c4 or c6s.

Here is an article about neutral safety switches: http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/1308-how-to-troubleshoot-neutral-safety-switches/ I was not saying that mustangs had column shifters, but in 70 they did have column levers for tilt or ignition switch that is in the column. Guess I will order both and see which one works. Thanks all!

Nice looking, but not sure I will go back to this color, as knowing me I always end up blue. Most of my past restores went blue, but maybe black this time. Haven't done a black car yet. But back to windsor versus cleveland...still not sure what to do here.