Sean D

Anyone with pictures handy?

Everything in the engine is the same, and the aod was rebuilt with a shift kit (hard shifts). I am know not 100% sure if all the vibration goes away in neutral (hard to tell) but most of it does. However, I am 100% sure that the vibration is present in all gear until it shifts into overdrive. But when not in overdrive the vibration seems to get worse as speed increases through each gear, so more vibration at the top of each gear. Then bam, goes away once it goes into overdrive.

I have done this test to go from overdrive only, third gear and again in overdrive, and the vibration stops as soon as I get into overdrive, as start when I downshift into 3rd. BTW - how can you tell if I am running a lock-up torque converter and if so how to tell if/when it is locking up?

One more note: we reused the flexplate that was behind the c6 trans. Also seems I can get the vibration in neutral sitting in the garage.

Hi All - I have been trying to figured out a vibration I have since replacing the c6 with aod, new stock torque convertor, new aluminum drive shaft and u joints, new strange truetrac differential and new axles. Used same flexplate. Seems like vibration is present through first 3 gears, most noticeable in 3rd at 35 to 45 mph. All vibration goes away as soon as trans goes into overdrive either manually or automatically. Also under normal and light acceleration, it seems like vibration is a bit less in first part of each gear range. And again goes away in OD. 351 cleveland. Thoughts?

no problem at all. please feel free to send me your email address.

Hey everyone...would you all mind giving me your I pinions on the value of a complete 1970 used running, not smoking, pinging or any apparent problem stock 351 cleveland v4 Engine? About to build a 351w 418 stroker with a block I have and a buddy of mine wants to buy the Cleveland from me for his torino.

barnett468, About to start buying parts for the build you were helping me spec. Do you mind sharing the changes that you think I need knowing that I have Power Brakes and the transmission information?

barnett468, About to start buying parts for the build you were helping me spec. Do you mind sharing the changes that you think I need knowing that I have Power Brakes and the transmission information?

What do you all think these parts are worth? C6 trans was running well when I swapped it out in my 69 Mach 1 for aod in April. Ford 2.75 rear end center section was swapped out in April as well. Ford 4v intake for 351w (not sure what it came off of). Original 1970 deluxe steering wheel that is in pretty good shape.

Hi barnett468...sorry to bother but if you have time will you please give me your suggestions on changes to your build knowing I have power brakes that need a min of 18 in vacuum and aod?

Hi Barnett468! You are awesome!!!! I do have power brakes and vacuum is a concern, and need over 18 in of vacuum. My AOD does not use vacuum and will run vintage air, so no other need for vacuum other than power brakes. My current 351C only produces 14 to 15 in vacuum and the front disk brakes are not great...needs more pressure, which comes with more vacuum. I do not mind a bit of loopy idle, but too rough. The car will only be driven on nice weather days and will not see track and never see drag strip, so no 100 plus mph. But want very good street capable vehicle off the line and through 70 mph (if that makes sense). The AOD is stock build with shift kit, and my guess is the 1st gear ratio is 2.40:1. I am running a strange 3.70 rear end if that helps. Is there anything you would change in your suggestions knowing that I have power brakes and the AOD specs?

No problem. And thank you ahead...!

Update. I ended up going with PS Engineering wheels. 17x8 4.5" backspace with 245/45 On front and 17x9 5.25 backspace with 255/45 On rear. Was a bit worried about clearance on rear with 275/40, but will get them once these wear out. What do you all think? 17s do not look like to much rim on these classic muscle cars?

Hi Barnett 368, Any update?

Barnett368 It would be greatly appriciated and probably save me a costly mistake! Thank you much!

Hi Barnett468, Excellent, I think I am getting there. I cannot find one of these Eagle Street and strip rotating assembly kits for a 418, I do see them for 410 and 414 though. I found these Scat roating kits: http://www.cleggengine.com/ford-small-block-351-windsor-4340-forged-crank-357ci-393ci-408ci-418ci-i-beam-rods-competition.html and I assume the bottom two will are the ones I need to choose, with one of them being internally balanced (is internally balanced a good idea for my application, I guess not). I am sure there are other manufacturers, do you have a preference with the 4032 material pistons? Also, can you give me some advice on the on hydraulic roller lifter kit to work with the hydraulic roller cam that you mentioned? Something like this:

Thank you! Will this striker kit work with your other recommendations? https://m.summitracing.com/parts/esp-16123030

Barnett468, Thank you for the information. I think I am fine as long as I have just over 400 rwhp. Can this be achieved with a moderate cam? Remember this is my current configuration. The direction I am after is a moderate cam, on pump gas, that is best for mostly street but setup for track (not drag). Low to mid end power to get out off line aggressively. Top end speed is not what i am after, but still have enough power to drop out of overdrive on the interstate. I have freshly installed aod (built with shift kit and other upgraded internals) with new strange true trac 3.70 gear rear end and strange performance axles, and aluminum drive shaft. Will install Street or Track coil over front and rear for best handling possible, before the engine build. Not sure I will go to rack and pinion though as I already have power steering and brakes. It is an AC car if that matters, and will put in vintage air.

Okay guys, I think I have a 69 model power steering pump, but it is on a 70 351c. The Cleveland was swapped into my 69 years ago. Isn't the pressure hose fitting on 69 female and male is on pump side. I have read that it is opposite on 70 pumps. I replaced the hoses last year with 69 model hoses. I need to replace it as it is wobbling and whining pretty bad.

My car is not numbers matching so top end after market is fine. The direction I am after is a moderate cam, on pump gas, that is best for mostly street but setup for track (not drag). Low to mid end power to get out off line agressively. Top end speed is not what i am after, but still have enough power to drop out of overdrive on the interstate. I have freshly installed aod (built with shift kit and other upgraded internals) with new strange true trac 3.70 gear rear end and strange performance axles, and aluminum drive shaft. Will install Street or Track coil over front and rear for best handling possible, before the engine build. Not sure I will go to rack and pinion though as I already have power steering and brakes. It is an AC car if that matters, and will put in vintage air. Does this help...I am really not sure where to start with planning the engine and would love to copy someone that has already done this or knows how to plan it.

Hello everyone, I am starting to collect parts for my 351w 408 stroker build in my 69 mach 1. All I have right now is a 1974 block machined and ready to build.I have two questions for you all, if you will be so kind to reply. 1. I have read many articles and have seen lots of build specs/sheets with many around 500 hp. But does anyone have a build sheet/specs for a build around 450 rwhp, not EFI that they are willing to share? Something like this: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712phr-complete-408-stroker-engine-build/ or http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/engine/408ci-small-block-ford-engine-550-hp-build/ 2. What timing cover and high flow water pump, with mechanical fuel pump and dipstick do I need? All my searches for timing cover on a 74 block comes up with timing covers with the crankshaft sensor mount and I need one with the dipstick mount instead. Preferably driver side water pump outlet, for more efficient cross-flow radiator. Will the timing cover and water pump combination affect what alternator, PS steering and AC brackets I need to purchase (note I have to purchase a complete set anyway, just need to know what year to go with when searching). Maybe this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-4250?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-edelbrock&gclid=CjwKEAjwse7JBRCJ576SqoD7lCkSJABF-bKuvR-OXIMSURkfC-BF4px-iA4iTZDx7RdTOQgjM74voBoCJ3_w_wcB and https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-16231?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-milodon&gclid=CjwKEAjwse7JBRCJ576SqoD7lCkSJABF-bKuFKZW3vG0ePU6YcJOzpD0-nvxp4o_NR7G5CV97fT2mhoCOELw_wcB

I went with the Strange rear end and axles when I swapped out my c6 with a AOD. True Trac with 3.70 gear 31spline. Love it and not too low gear with the AOD over drive.

Excellent point. Just completed an aod swap and rebuilt rear end. Plan to go with Street or Track coil over front and back, which should do the trick. All good opinions so far...!

Excellent! I saw this picture and some others when doing research. I am really surprised that I could not find more pictures online to be honest. I did consider the make of the ones you shared, but i kind of like the ones in the top picture more as they have a bit more curve on spokes. Thoughts on the 255 Tires? Enough meet for good performance?