Sean D

I believe it is the 70268 model and yes it is supported on both sides with same brackets.

Exectly! I ran mine through the trans cooler and then the B&M, then back to the trans.

I am using this B&M model as well, with AC. Made some brakets out of aluminum, bolted right up to the top and bottom condensor. Works well.

This is what I am running and have no complaints.

Found the perfect press-in insert nuts to fix this. They fit exact, with no drilling or gluing! Just tapped in and worked like a charm. Unfortunately I now have 99 more of these as you can only purchase them in 100 count.

Excellent, thank you guys!

Hi everyone, Does anyone have ONE of these press-in nut inserts that go in the hole to attach the turn signal light bezel on a mach 1 hood scoop? As you can see in the picture below the left is intact and right is missing. Or know where to get them and you dont have to buy a pack of 25.

All thank you for your help. I borrowed another meter and now move constant voltage at 14.6v.... thank goodness as I was about to loose my mind. Again thank you all.

It just looks that way. I used the PA Performance dummy regulator. only three wires are used.

I tested my DVM on one of my other vehicles and it read constant voltage when the vehicle was running and not. What the heck could this be? Poor grounding? Bad voltage regulator inside the 3G alternator?

I tested ar battery connectors and terminals with same results. Interesting that the voltage gauge (converted ammeter) in the instument cluster is pretty constant and doesn't bounce around.

Thanks. I wouldn't think dvm probe as it is good constant voltage without engine running.

Finally got my new engine running with new parts (and I mean everything), and at the same time rewired front end with new headlight harness and all other wiring too, including new 4 gauge battery cables. Has Pa performance 3g alternator with AGM battery. MSD electonic ignition. Now I am trying to figure out why my voltage across the battery terminal, when running, fluctuates so much. Please confirm that the voltage should not be swinging from 0 to 14.8 volts and everything in between when car is running. The reading on my volt meter across the battery terminals changes every second to some value between 0 and 14.8 v. Nothing constant. Also same result when testing at positive post on back of alt and negative battery terminal. Also same result throughout rpm range. Seems to get worse as things like electric fans start ramping up. When car is not running it is constant 13.1v. What could cause this? Grounding? Bad alternator? 20180704_130433.mp4

So, you can use Dasani or Aquafina drinking water instead of distilled, without any problems? I like this idea as I ALWAYS have a bunch in the house, garage, and most of the time vehicles.

How often do you have to change the fluids using this method? Also why not use distilled water?

Keith Craft 408w with Weiend aluminum High Flow water pump, bored to 4.030” and compression is 9.9:1. I have the Milodon high flow 180 thermostat, Griffin 24" aluminum radiator, contour fans, and dcc controller. Can you give me your thoughts on coolant and additives? Live in north Alabama and will not drive car in cold, however it does get a little hot down here!

It is just the way I received the engine from the engine builder, they dyno'ed it before sending it to me. I will put fitting in for the heater and bypass hoses.

Thanks for the information, it's always welcome!

Thanks for idea on hood. The 90 degree heater hose is exactly my plan. It will be on top of the hose coming from the water pump. Also, I might be able to shave off 1/4" from base lip that sits on5op of carb.

I was able to move the engine forward 3/8" or maybe closer to 1/2", so drive shaft will be good. Here is final position of engine! I do believe I am going to have to work on air cleaner and/or carb chock tower for hood clearance, but will not know exactly what I am dealing with until I lay hood down for fitment. No one home to help today. Generally, what do you all think?

Not sure I have an issue yet. Going to pull engine forward 3/8" and check travel of yoke. But shorten drive shaft is an option.

Got it...I read it to fast.

Barnett - the picture was taken with the car down on all four tires with complete weight on diff and shaft. Getting it to compress would be a bit difficult. Any other suggestion to check?

correct Barnett! We will see and may need to go with different carb and /or air cleaner. And thanks for advice guys. I also noticed that I have engine and trans pushed back quite a bit. I now have about 3/8" distance from end of trans tail rubber seal and leading edge of drive shaft yoke. See picture. There is still 1" plus of rubber between leading edge of drive shaft yoke and trans. Is this enough/okay? I can probably bring the engine forward about 3/8", but rather not due to electric fan clearance to pulleys in about 5/8".

I was hoping to use this filter that matches the valve covers, and the carb does have choke tower , so but maybe I will still have to cut hood. Will dry fit it later this weekend.