Drews93fox

Thank you for the number and contact. Gave him a call this afternoon! thanks

Looking for a pair of quarter panel extensions for a fastback. I have a repop right side and it’s doesn’t seem to be fitting correctly so I would like to purchase some originals. thank you, Andrew

Thanks everyone for the comments, I believe that Ridge likes the Scott Drake floors. From what I have read, the floor needs to go through the windshield hole or rear glass

I am looking to purchase the full floor for my 69 fastback, I have been searching the forum and see that the scott drake and dynacorn are the 2 main pieces. Does anyone have experience with either? Also the scott drake looks like it does not come with the seat risers but the dynacorn looks like it does. Can anyone comment on this? Thanks for the help -Drew

Okay thanks for the information, I think that I will go ahead and purchase this one and fix the rust. Thank you to everyone that commented -Andrew

Hey everyone, So I have finally found a "new" to me hood. It is a 69 hood with minimal rust. The question that I have is; there is some rust on under the support structure where I could not get to with a grinder. So, should I still purchase the hood? Would there be a way for me to have the hood dipped and eliminate the rust? The cost is $200 so I feel that it's a good price. I just want a piece of mind that I won't have to worry about rust coming through my hood after a couple of years. Thanks for the input! Andrew

Great Thank you I think that I am going to try to make a list of the best sheet metal parts for our cars. Practically the whole outside of mine will be replaced, so this should be helpful to more people than just me. Thank you everyone for all the replies

Who makes the best full floor? I am going to use dynacorn for the quarters and try to find doors or fix mine. Thanks

Hi all, I am starting to get prices to start the resto-mod on my 1969 mach. I took my car to a body and frame shop last night to get the idea of how to start. As we were chatting he asked me what parts that I will be using (specifically quarters, doors, and floor). I said that I have heard a lot of good things about Dynacorn. He then went on to say that he has never had any luck with Dynacorn parts, but I also know that he mostly restores GM cars. Does this make a difference in dynacorn? I have tried to find the company that uses the ford tooling to buy those parts with no luck. I was wondering if anyone here knows who produces the parts with Ford tooling? If no one does, what is the next best option? The options that I know of: 1. Dynacorn 2. Junk yard parts (not really in favor of this option, as the car is not going to be numbers matching) 3. Ford Repo parts? 4. Chinese parts (not going to do this) Thanks for all the help in advance!! Drew

Okay, so for the update on the vin. After the DOT checkout out the car, I decided to take the fenders off the can and take a look at the vins. On both sides, the vin matches! I'm very happy that it does. Like I said, the car was crashed on the drivers front, the first part of the inner finder was somewhat straightened and the radiator support has been changed out. The car does have "wraps" on both shock towers. They look to be factory as well.... so I'm not sure on that one. I have about a month until I get my bonded title and then I will be able to start on the car Thank you for all of the input, I am glad that the car is original and has matching vins. Andrew

Very good, thank you for the information! Andrew

The car is a Mach 1, I ended up getting a marti report for the car. Everything matches the car as it looks. The PO "built" the motor, it is a 351 windsor, 4 barrel. The code in the vin is H, he did the work to the motor.

I want to know as well! haha With everything that has been said these last couple of days, I am ready to know the story on the car. Unfortunately the PO can't tell me anything more than I already know. With the 428 comment, are you saying that the vin under the fenders would tell me if it had a 428 in it?

What is the wrap that everyone is taking about? I don't have a clue and can't seem to find anything online about it. Also, thanks for the heads up with the vents in the door jam!

It is not a CJ car, it has a H code in the vin. 351

First and foremost, thank you for answering the original question asked!! I have purchased this car and this is the car that I am going to build. I understand that life happens but I am planning on keeping this car for the rest of my life. So as of right now it doesn't run, I am a student and have finals in a week. But I am trying to get a good plan on how to start. The car is kinda rusty on the bottom, In places. I know that I need to patch one piece of the frame in the back. Other than that, i'm really not sure what is acceptable or not. I know to take all of the rust off, but how do I know what to replace and what can be taken down to bare metal and expxy coated? This is kinda the reason that I was thinking on having the car sand-blasted on the bottom. Its good to know that this is all possible. I have lots of experience welding and metal work, this is just a different kind and I don't want to mess anything up. I am already planning on replacing both quarters, new fenders and hood and assuming that I will at least replace the skin on the drivers door. I don't understand the no sand-blasting thought? How do you know when to replace and when it is just good enough? I don't want to just throw parts at it, but I also don't want to do this again in 10 years. Thank you both

The class cost $175, I supply all of my own materials. I can buy cheep or expensive, but they will most likely be PPG. The actual painter that comes in gets paid by the college.

I agree with your statement, it is also hard for me to imagine that. I also don't know what year the gold car was that the hood and fender came from. I know that the car was wrecked in the front, and the parts car could have been a 70. I will be doing the work myself, I like doing this. I have taken the local community college body class a couple of times and will keep going. They have multiple instructors that help with the class, and they paint the car for you in the end. The painter is a professional that they bring in for the painting. So really I can get the car professionally painted for $175 with all the best equipment. Thank you for your reply

I will check that. The car is currently at my parents and I will not be around it for another couple of weeks

To be honest, not sure. The guy I bought is from said that the previous owner to him hit a pole and was going to derby the car. He bought it from that guy 30 years ago and put the gold parts on the car. The PO didn't say anything to me about the tail lights, I noticed them when I purchased the car. There was also one 69 tail light in the trunk. The PO also didn't have the title to the car so I am in the process of bonding it. I couldn't wait for that, so I already bought the Marti Report for the car and everything came out perfect expect for the car came factory with front disc brakes and now has drums..... I do understand that the car is going to be a lot of work and money but I am going to keep the car for the rest of my life. I am also only 27, so if the car takes 10 years to build i'm not really worried about that. I hope to have it done for my daughters junior prom... which is 16 years from now. I have plenty of time to build the car. I want to do it once and do it the correct way. I don't want to have to do another build 20 years down the road because I cut corners.

Thanks guys, I was also thinking of sandblasting it to see what I had. I just didn't know any other way. I do know that I will be buying fenders, hood and most of the nose for it, quarters, and door skins. I assume that I will be purchasing a lot more from dynacorn. I should get some stock in the company before I start my resto!

Hey guys and gals, I have posted a couple of things on this site and have gotten great answers!! So, I am going to ask the big question. How do you start a restoration? I have recently aquired my dream car of a 1969 Mach 1. The plans for this car are going to be a mild build with a couple of changes. I want to give it a better stance, as in lower it a bit. I don't want to mini-tub because I don't want to loose the back seat. I have a line on a 408 stroker kit for $600, so I think I will do that for the engine with some afr heads with a better top end kit. I want to keep the interior stock, maybe with a better head unit...But the big question is where do I start with the body. It has been setting for the last 30 years and 4 of those in grass. I really just don't know how to start the process. I do know that the car was wrecked on the front left. I have been told by a friend to have the body checked to see if it still straight, this is something that is definitely possible. The next part is where I don't know what to do. Should I have the body sandblasted to see what needs to be replaced? Any help would be appreciated, I did not grown up in a family that did this. I'm not sure where to go from here. I am going to post a couple of pictures of the car for your guys to see. Also, for some reason the P.O. put 70 tail lights on it.

So, I am technically going back to school. I used to be in a Electrical apprenticeship program, I was laid off when I was 20 years old, and didn't know what else to do but go back to school. I ended up chasing my now wife up to the University of Iowa. Being in Mechanical engineering I assumed that most of my classmates would be gear heads.... Its definitely not the case anymore. Most of the mechanical students that I go to school with now are really book smart, but when you try to get into a technical conversation they get lost. If they cant read it out of a book and study it, they just don't get it, kinda sad.

Awesome thanks!! I just need to keep my head on straight for my senior year. I think this is going to be a great project. It will be the first car that I will restore so I am sure that I will have issues here and there and will need advice. Scanning through this forum, I can tell that people have good intentions. My wife is also excited for this build because she will be able to drive this car being a auto. I have never had Malechek, I had Rethwitch for Materials Science- good professor just a rambler. I did have Anderson for Circuits.... Now that class is horrible haha

As of right now, I am in the process on getting a bonded title. The guy I purchased the car from never put the car in his name and then lost the title... 30 years ago.... Since the car is my dream car, I could not pass up the deal. Bonded or not. The process for the bonded title is straight forward in Iowa, I'm not really worried about loosing the car, but I will not touch it until I have title in hand. I am also still in school, I have one year left for a mechanical engineering degree. The car won't get a lot of attention until I am done with school. Plans for the car are still up in the air. We want to do a resto-mod to the car, but mostly taking it back to stock. Bigger brakes, better stance and of course a built engine. I know that I will have the car for the rest of my lifetime, and don't want to cut corners. I want to get my ducks in a row before we start on anything. Another odd part to the whole deal, was the PO said that the car is not a Mach 1 and was adamant about it. Knowing what I was looking for, the door code stated a 63C. His story was weird, so when we returned home with the car we purchased the deluxe Marti report and the car was a Mach from the factory and everything checks out. As soon as I figure out the attachments I will post a couple of pics