
annta60
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annta60 reacted to 1BAD351 in Welded, 9" big housing ends, powdercoated Ford 8.8 SRA
Hey all, getting rid of a couple bare 8.8 housings I don't need. Both were professionally done on a jig. Tubes straightened if needed, tubes then welded 360 degrees on a jig to the center section and 9" big bearing ends welded on. Housings were cleaned inside, sand blasted outside and fully powdercoated on the outside. Damper brackets have been removed to allow welding of the 9" ends.
Housing 1: 55" Brake flange to brake flange (will end up 60" axle flange to axle flange once axles are installed)
Housing 2 56.25" Brake flange to brake flange (will end up 61.5" axle flange to axle flange once axles are installed)
They will obviously need gears, carrier, bearings, etc. with custom axles you can order from probably any axle manufacturer. I personally use Strange Engineering. Call them up tell them it's an 8.8 with the Ford 9" big bearing ends and it's X" flange to flange measurement and they will be able to make you an axle set and give you the overall axle flange to axle flange width once axles are installed.
Housing 1 is close to a factory Fox and will probably push the wheels about 1/4" further out, or be good for a tubbed 96-04 if you need a shortened rear or to use some really deep dish wheels.
Housing 2 will pull the tires in 3/8"" on each side for a 99-04 so you can use a deeper dished wheel, or can probably be used in a 96-98 also depending on wheel offset.
The work and parts alone will cost close to this, nevermind the cost of the rear itself and the 2-3 month wait time most shops have. If you want both or you and a buddy want to take them both at the same time, I will let them go as a package, but you must take both on the same day.
Here is a picture of the 55" housing, but they're both identical apart from the actual measurement. The white spots on the 9" end is not flaking powdercoat, it's just tape residue from me keeping the ends covered. Both housings are recently powdercoated and have not been used since the work was performed, so there are no issues with them at all.
Looking for $650 each picked up in Clinton NJ area. I can ship as well; freight will be 100-200 bucks per rear depending where you live. If you want both I may be able to combine shipping.
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annta60 reacted to fvike in Crashed my Fastback - The rebuild thread
Time for an update again. Started on getting the Tremec T-56 Magnum installed.
First up was installing the engine. Dropped right in of course.
Next up, the Magnum.
Test fit to see where it hit the floors. It did hit the transmission tunnel crossmember first. I'm using the TCP motor mounts, and I can't drop the engine any more because the Rack & Pinion goes under the oilpan. I know guys who has Mustang 2 style suspension or front steer rack can lower the engine more, and don't have to cut up the floors.
Started drilling out spot welds for the transmission tunnel crossmember.
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annta60 reacted to soap94 in 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429
Would like to share this video with you guys. In my opinion this is one of the best mustang models of all models.
[media] [/media]
That is why i love 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429 so much!
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annta60 reacted to 1969_Mach1 in Master Cylinder Will Not Fit
I tried installing a new master cylinder I bought from my local NAPA auto parts store for my 1969 Mach 1 and it won't fit between the power brake booster and the shock tower. Did some research and its a Raybestos master cylinder. The last master cylinder I puchased from NAPA was shaped slightly different and fit easily. The description for the one I just purchased states its a newer lighter weight casting. The car has factory power front disk/rear drum brakes. What brand OEM type master cylinders will easily fit?
Thanks
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annta60 reacted to 408CJ in C6 to AOD conversion
Wondering what AOD people have used to convert from either a C4 or C6. I'm not interested in finding a used AOD to rebuild and would like to know what success people have had with Conversion kits from PATC, or Performance Automatic, or Lentech, or B&M - or any other vendor.
I'm changing my C6 to an AOD soon. The C6 is behind a 408 stroked full roller Cleveland with 450 hp and 510 ft/lb so I need a pretty hefty AOD. Since the engine has a lot more potential with just a few changes I need something that will last a while.
I've looked at their websites but I'd like some feedback on what has actually worked.
Thanks.
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annta60 reacted to ashleesmach1 in Need step by step installation 1G to 3G Alt conversion
Any help would be appreciated! I have the 4 gauge wire to the battery and the 175 amp fuse and the single grey wire for the the alt. I also Have a Good 3G 130 amp Alt. A detailed diagram would be very helpful. I looked on UTUBE but did not find a clear video to learn from. Thanks!
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annta60 reacted to Stock 87 in 4.6 with SoT track suspension Rusto mod
He she is in all of her glory. Left to sit under a tree for twenty five years.
Future plans:
Street or track front and rear suspension
4.6 mod motor, carbed with a functioning shaker. 2v or 4v tbd.
5 speed swap
Discs all,around.
Swap out factory power steering for manual.
I drug her out, and towed her home.
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annta60 reacted to prayers1 in Anyone use UniSteer Rack & Pinion?
Looking to change form manual to power steering. I've looked at a few options and came down to a Borgensen PS box type set up or UniSteer that has a direct bolt on rack & pinion.
l will be installing it with a 351 Cleveland so that in itself is the big hurdle.
The down side of the Borgenson unit is trying to find a PS pump bracket which Borgenson does not carry and a factory one does not work, also there is concern of long tube header fitment.
As for the UniSteer, I've read a few complaints that the unit would not directly bolt to the crossmembers old location and that a few had to oblong the holes in the unit.
I did speak to UniSteer who advised that of course there will be some fitment concerns due to the age of our vehicles. Evidence shows that over time the body and frame flex's with age and gets distorted, especially when the car is placed on a stands or lifts for a long time which puts stress on the frame causing it to flex, so over time there is going to be some variances.
Here is a short version on UniSteer in a 428.
Opinions are welcomed. Thank you!
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annta60 reacted to 68stang289 in 1970 Mach I 428 SCJ, 4 Spd w/ DB & PS
This beautiful 1970 Ford Mustang Mach I with a built 428 Super Cobra Jet, 4-speed Toploader, disc brakes and power steering has just completed a full top to bottom restoration and has less than 100 miles on the restoration. A true Mach 1, this car started life as a 351 automatic car and had the 428 SCJ and Toploader swapped in by the previous owner. I purchased the car in 2004 and began the restoration that same year. As she spends most of her time in my garage, it is time to send her to a new home where her legs will be stretched regularly. Clean and clear Florida title in hand.
ENGINE:
The 428 was built by Bill's Speed Shop out of Fuquay-Varina, NC and features TRW .060 pistons with big valve cuts, a Crower solid lifter cam shaft, ported intake, polished Lemans rods, FPP rockers, stands, spacers and pushrods, shell lifters, steel roller timing chain, windage tray, 8 qt Milodan oil pan and ARP bolts. The motor also had all the necessary machine work done. The rear of the block prominently features the 'C' scratch mark, which indicates that it is a reinforced block used for 428CJ/SCJ's. I have added a Pertronix Stage III distributor with electronic ignition and a new Pertronix Flamethrower coil. The motor is fed by a Carter electric fuel pump and is topped by a Holley Double Pumper.
TRANSMISSION/REAR END:
The 4-speed Toploader has been rebuilt, is tight, rows the gears smoothly and features a Hurst shifter. The power is transferred to the pavement via a Ford 9" rear end with a 3.55 Detroit Locker.
SUSPENSION:
This Mach sits on a brand new suspension featuring a set of Shelby 1" drop springs (550#) on new spring perches and 1" lift shackles in the rear for a more aggressive stance. The bushings have all been replaced with urethane bushings and everything is tight throughout. The front shocks are KYB-GR2's, which when paired with the Shelby drop springs, makes for a great handling combination. The rear shocks are also KYB-GR2s.
BRAKES:
The front brakes have been converted to disc brakes with new rotors, calipers, pads and hardware. The factory soft rubber brake lines have been replaced by braided stainless steel lines. The rears are still drum brakes, however they have been rebuilt with new shoes and wheel cylinders.
STEERING:
This Mach has been converted to a power steering car with all of the necessary proper original Ford 428 pulleys and brackets being sourced from specialty suppliers. The power steering ram is brand new, as are all of the power steering high and low pressure lines. The car also had a recent alignment and drives straight and true.
WHEELS/TIRES:
The front Magnum 500's are brand new, while the rears are a little older and show a little wear (though that's only noticeable when you look closely for it). The front tires are brand new as well with less than 100 miles on them, while the rear tires have around 1,000 miles on them and are a little older. Plenty of tread left on the tires though.
GLASS:
The front windshield is brand new and looks fantastic. The rear glass is original Ford and is also in excellent shape. The rear quarter windows are in great shape and feature old school Holman-Moody race stickers (easily removable if desired). The door glass is in good shape, however the driver's side window does have a mark on it where I was told by the previous owner that a rock was thrown at it. The passenger side window also has a few small marks on it as well, though since this car does not have air conditioning, I rarely have the windows up and have never found this to be noticeable or an issue. As 70 was a bolt in door glass, replacement can be done quickly and inexpensively if so desired by the new owner.
INTERIOR:
The interior is in fantastic shape with freshly recovered seats (front and rear), a brand new OEM Ford tooling dash pad, new headliner and new deluxe door panels. The original rim blow steering wheel was refurbished and has a new switch installed. A custom Autometer gauge setup is located under the center section of the dash, which is covered in black vinyl that matches the seats nearly perfectly. Underneath the brand new carpeting is a sound deadening insulation (kind of like Dynamat).
The factory wiring harness was completely refurbished by Midlife and is in excellent shape. All the lights and gauges work, as does the AM radio. The Mach clock was working when I reinstalled it about a year ago, but now only works intermittently. I would imagine it's time for a quartz rebuild kit on it (~$100), or just leave it as is and enjoy the car as is. All of the lights have been converted to LED as well for a brighter display.
EXTERIOR:
The car was media blasted down to bare metal with any areas of rust being repaired. By and large, the car was in pretty solid shape after the media blasting. Torque boxes were installed to strengthen/stiffen the car and the driver's side floor pan was replaced along with a patch panel being installed on the driver's side lower rear quarter. After the metal work, the car was painted with a custom shade of dark grey metallic in base coat/clear coat. The paint is gorgeous and really pops in the sun due to all of the metal flake. There is a small paint chip on the passenger side headlight bucket from a rock. I've touched it up to make it less noticeable, but you can still see it in certain lights. The chrome bumpers front and rear are brand new and the front and rear window trim was refurbished by removing all of the dents and polishing out any scratches to a high shine. All other chrome parts were either cleaned up to look new or were replaced with new chrome.
OTHER INFORMATION:
Included with the sale is a second cowl panel painted the color of the car with holes drilled for the Autometer gauges that have been moved inside the cabin. This allows the gauges to be placed on the outside in direct line of sight and is ideal for drag racing. Also included with the sale is large box of spare and replacement parts, a binder of receipts and a full car car cover. Two sets of keys are also included with the sale.
There are too many other new or refurbished parts to include in this post, though all receipts from the restoration and some from the previous owner are available. She's an absolute head turner and gets looks and thumbs up everywhere I go. Additional pictures are available upon request. This Mach is located in the Southwest Florida/Fort Myers area and I am happy to help arrange for shipping. I hate to see her go, but it is time. Asking $36,900 or reasonable offer. Additional pictures can be found here - http://imgur.com/a/PmoiF.
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annta60 reacted to Mbeta300 in will a small block toploader work behind a 428?
Hello there, I'm new to this forum, but hopefully someone out there can assist me in a transmission fitment issue. I have a '69 fastback and recently aquired a 428 PI engine and just purchased a set of NOS 428 CJ heads, so I am going to build a 428 car. I also currently own a top loader 4 speed with hurst shifter, but it is a small block transmission. I have heard that it can be used, but there seems to be different thoughts on the subject. I would prefer to "do it right", if it can be done. I have heard that a FE truck bell housing will locate the input shaft correctly in the crank because it as a longer depth to it. If that is the case, doesn't that move the transmission further back and cause problems with the mount position? I don't have any objections to replacing the input shaft with a different one that would work better since the transmission is in pieces anyways. Is that a better way to go? I would appreciate any information and input you guys might have.
Thanks
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annta60 reacted to fvike in Crashed my Fastback - The rebuild thread
So, your worst nightmare just happened to me.
Here's how:
I was at the local racetrack, going out for my first session of the weekend. Started slow, planning on a warm-up lap. So in the 3rd corner I just spin out ca 100 degrees and hit the armco. The car is then recoiled out and according to the driver behind me a 1/2 to 1 meter in the air. I then did a 360 degree spin in the sandtrap and a 180 on the tarmac before I rolled to a halt on the other side of the road.
Both doors didn't open. So I roll down the window and crawls out. A guy comes up to me and tells me he blew a oil pressure coupling and left oil on the track. Boy, did I give him the evil eye. :cursing: Here I got my car ruined because of him not having his shit together when he got out on the track. I was very frustrated. I was later told that he had been wrenchin' the whole day, and had a loud knocking in his engine in the pits. Which he ignored. I also heard he blew the oil hose in the second corner but didn't stop, he ignored it and drove on, oiling the track. A guy (who's an driving instructor) in an M3 told me he only got saved by the ESP system in his car. I was frustrated that the actions of one guy who didn't consider the safety of others on the racetrack cost me my car. On the other hand I was glad that I didn't have fault in it. The guy in the car behind me said there was no way I could have saved the car in that spinout. He actually destroyed all his tires when he was breaking to stop for me.
Crashsite as seen from ontop the salvage truck. There was a lot for oil on the track all the way down the hill and I spun out where the two people is standing.
Back In the garage
The shocktower bracing did a good job stopping the impact. I also believe the subframe connectors helped resist body twist. I also have the TCP X brace under the car between the subframe connectors.
It's only metal.
So begins the rebuild. Luckily, I was covered by insurance, but I'll probably invest some extra money in the car anyway - I already have thanks to Ebay - you know how these projects go!
Luckily I didn't have a scratch on me. I did get a minor swelling from the shoulder belt (using the originals), but it was very minor. Just like 3 zips in row on my collar bone. Luckily I didn't carry much speed when I spun out, because it was only the warm-up lap.
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annta60 reacted to mrtinman in Paint codes for undercarriages and engine copmartments
can anyone tell me the paint codes for undercarriages and engine compartments. And all black the fire will is not body color is that right ??? if you have a PPG number or code that would be great
Thanks much
Trace
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annta60 reacted to Vicfreg in National Mustang Museum Groundbreaking, Car Show, etc
Just an fyi for the Forum members. This weekend (July 29 & July 30), groundbreaking will occur for the new National Mustang Museum, which will be built in Concord, North Carolina (near Charlotte Motor Speedway). If you live in the area, for a modest donation, you can actually bring your vintage Mustang to the ground breaking ceremony on Friday, where there will be cars on display and a Mustang car show, with dash plaques and trophies awarded. If you want to fully immerse yourself in Mustang stuff, there is a weekend long schedule of events.
My 1970 'Vert is still at Mike's for surgery, so I will be there in my '68 Coupe. Here is the link:
http://www.thenationalmustangmuseum.com/
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annta60 reacted to Raven R code in Paint-sheen-color.....what did you have good luck with?
First....not doing concours or a trailer queen....but I'm looking to do it right. So....engine compartment....anyone use Eastwood 's 2K ceramic chassis black? If so, does it have the correct sheen to it? Also, considering doing the master cylinder and bendix power booster in Eastwood 2K ceramic semi black (I believe it to be close to original.
If Eastwood doesn't match original.....is there a 2K paint that does?
Also, what paint do people consider to be a close match for phosphate parts?
Thanks!
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annta60 reacted to Raven R code in Radiators
Has anyone ever got an original radiator recored? Did it look original afterwards? Not sure if I should consider doing this. Thoughts?
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annta60 reacted to gsxrken in Crashed my Fastback - The rebuild thread
Reminds me of a very close call I had years ago. I was riding my GSXR1100 late one evening going north on the twisty Henry Hudson parkway. It was dark, my face shield was tinted, and I was traveling at a rate that rendered my low-beams fairly useless. By the grace of God, I thought I saw something odd in my lane and quickly switched lanes. It wasn't just something in the road, it was a Chevy van broke down in the center lane, with both of his rear doors open which were blocking his taillights. I missed the left door by inches. I would have hit it at 80MPH+, sailed through the interior and out it's windshield from the inside. Still freaks me out how very close it was.
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annta60 reacted to JayEstes in Side stripes
I would like some opinions. let me have it, just be honest. I reserve the right to do whatever the hell I like after I get some advice, but I'm looking for your thoughts.
I've got a beautiful coupe. It's a base model 302/C4 - nothing really special other than ALL original VIN's in place, engine/tranny/ everything rebuilt - she's probably better than new (I've sure spent more than was ever put into it, and it's questionable if I'd ever be able to get out what I've put in. It's ok because the car is sentimental (bought for me by my super cool dad, from my Uncle (who was second owner) in 1980. I'll never sell, and I've got 2 boys both of whicj would be happy to keep her when I'm gone.
I've rebuilt the whole thing and paint is now done. I wanted to paint on some stripes, but dear God... the cost of paint alone liked to killed me - so I left them off. It came out great, "Ford Ruby Red Metallic" which I am happy with, but it's a dark color and it "needs some decoration" to make it look better (IMHO). I'm not into going "far afield" form the original....
...but I'd really, really like some white stripes on it.
I really think this would look great: http://www.phoenixgraphix.com/ford/sk105.php
BUT, my car is not a GT. I don't wanna be a "pretender". How egregious of a sin is it to apply GT stripes to a regular coupe? I'm inclined to just do it, but I'd like to know what you guys think, if I'm way off in minority land, and everyone will just troll me on "pretending", I'd probably not care for that at all.
So what do you think? Is it dumb to put GT stripes on a standard coupe? Or, do I deserve to do what I like? How much crap might I get if I show it?
Other things I am doing for looks:
Probably going with Cragar SS Chrome Wheels White letter tires (either Cooper or Goodrich) I've already bought the "grande' wheel well chrome" edging (some installed and I love it) Alternatively, I'm thinking of doing the grande chrome wheel-well-wheel-well strip instead of the GT stripe.
Thoughts? Yeah, It's my car and I will do whatever I like, but it never hurts to get some advice from folks you respect.
Thanks in advance-
Jay
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annta60 reacted to afret in Shelby Clone stocker test run
Trying to work the bugs out of a new combination.
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annta60 reacted to MN69Grande in To Regulate or Not to Regulate
So I'm running a 347 10.2 compression, GT-40x heads, with a Holley 4150 650 cfm Vacuum sec. I was reading a lot of tuning guides on the wild ole interwebs and they said it was good idea to use a fuel pressure regulator to keep the pressure around 6 lbs. I've got a Holley Mech pump that does 6.5 - 8. I seems pretty constant at 7 or above. Holley says the needles in a 4150 will handle up to 9 lbs I think - but then in some of their own videos they say try to stay around 6 lbs. So I guess my question is to all the tuning wizards out there. Is it worth running a regulator?
The car had been running rich or lean for a while depending on what jets I was using up front. I was using the old plug reading method but It seemed I just couldn't get it right. So I put in an Wide band in 2 weeks ago and found I was running super rich at idle. So I reset the timing a couple degrees (more advanced now at 15 vs 12), increased the Idle 150 RMP From 800/400 park/drive to 950/550, adjusted the float level 1 turn, and turned the idle screws in one turn each.
Now the readings are where I want them at idle. Just slightly rich like 14-14.5. I still have to go for some test drives to see if I need to re-jet again. But I do notice the AFR bouncing around a bit and was wondering if this might be do to the fuel pressure moving up or down, or if that was just the way carbs generally run. At steady RPMs the bounce is .4 I guess, but as I go into or off the throttle it will jump up or down 1.5 points on the gauge.
Oh and I guess and semi-related question. I originally used a vacuum gauge to set the idle-mixture screw, but then changed it based on the AFR. Do you think changing from Max Vacuum as the tuning guides say to use to get a better AFR will cause issues?
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annta60 reacted to My Mach 1 in Value of a 69 or 70 R Code Mach 1
So I'm looking at maybe buying a 69 or 70 R code Mach 1. There's a couple in my area. These are matching numbers and restored about 7-10yrs ago and driven approx 2k on one and 6k on the other. 1 is a 4 spd car and the other has a C6. Both look really nice. One has front and rear spoiler and no slats while the other has no spoilers or slats. I'm just wondering what you guys think might be a good price to pay. I know that with Barrett Jackson prices most people have an unrealistic idea of what their car is actually worth. I'm finding the prices out here pretty high. What do you think would be a decent price for a decent car? Thanks!
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annta60 reacted to geraldchainsaw in power steering cyl
hi, i can't find it in the repair manuals, the power steering cyl that mounts to the frame, the bracket on the frame has a 3/4 or 7/8 hole that the cyl rod goes thru, does any one have a picture of what or how is used to hold it in place?, i made a nylon type washer to fit in the hole and 2 nylon washers outside the shole to hold it in place, but i don't think its right, does any one know?, thanks jerry
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annta60 reacted to Mike65 in Mike65's 69 Coupe build
Hello all after being here for over 7 years & seeing other builds I figured it is time for me to start one on my 69 Coupe. I aquired the 69 Coupe back in 2001, & when I aquired the car it was being used as a parts car stripped of almost anything useable. It was missing both doors, the interior except for the dash, the engine & the trans were long gone, & was missing one fender. After 4 moves & one failed business venture I am back working on the 69 Coupe. The Coupe was originally equipped with a 302, auto, 8" 2.79 rear, standard black interior, painted meadowlark yellow, & built in Metuchen, NJ on Nov 26th, 1968. My plans for the car are to make it a restomod, 331 stroker, 5 spd trans, 9" rear with 3.70 gears, painted green with black GT side stripes & a 1970 Mach-1 hood stripe with the Mach-1 hood scoop, front & rear spoilers. Black standard interior with 1970 Mustang high back buckets, center console & Mach-1 r/s dash panel with clock. As far as wheels & tires the wheels I had on my first Mustang were Ansen sprint slotted wheels & I want those or the 68/69 GT wheels with BFG T/A radials 235/60-15's. The wiring will be completely redone using an American auto wire kit for the 69 Mustang. I will get some pics put on soon.
Mike.
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annta60 reacted to albarnett_99 in Another Ignition Problem
I have been chasing a no start problem for the past few months and have had no success ('69 Mach 1, A/T, RobbMc starter, Mallory distributor and coil, no tach). When I turn the key to start, the solenoid gives out a loud click. I started out by bypassing the Pink resistance wire from the ignition switch. I installed a new ignition switch, zip tied the pink wire, cut the original pink wire). I originally installed a new wire from the ignition switch (cannot recall which wire in ignition switch pigtail I tapped) and ran it straight to the coil.
Car started and ran fine for a day. The next day it would not start and hasn't since. Since then, with the help of individuals on this site, I retracted my new wire to the coil and spliced it into the brown wire behind the firewall. I leveraged the factory harness to connect to the coil. Car still wont start and solenoid clicks.
I suspect the issue here is the starter. I shipped it back to the manufacturer and he tested it. He installed a new solenoid. Since I installed the refurbished starter, it has not started.
This weekend I scoured the various forums and wrote down all the suggested tests and results. Here is what I found:
1. Cleaned all battery posts, cables, grounds, etc. (no paint, no rust, replaced a starter cable from solenoid to starter, checked condition of all cables)(I have a ground strap from firewall to motor, battery to motor, etc)
2. Tested remote solenoid on car
- Solenoid ground to "S" post (3.8 ohms)
- Ground to large left post on solenoid (12.19 volts)
- Ground to "S" post (10.43 volts)
- Ground to "I" post (12.19 volts)
- Battery to large left post and right post (both 12.19 volts)
3. Tested voltage at coil
- 11.38 volts at positive terminal of coil
4. Ran a wire from + battery terminal to + on coil (loud click at solenoid, no start)
5. Removed post on "S" terminal and checked with test light (test light illuminates)
6. Jumped large post on left side of remote solenoid to "S" post (loud click, no start)
7. Ran a wire from battery + terminal to starter terminal on remote solenoid (loud click, no start)
- Transmission in neutral
8. Tried moving shifter between gears and back to park (loud click, no start)
9. Bypassed NSS (loud click, no start)
Not really sure where to go from here. Are there any other tests that I can perform? I would appreciate any other ideas and guidance here.
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annta60 reacted to RandyBob in mach 1 clock
looking for a mach 1 clock for parts or complete. mostly just need the set gear and spring thanks