rittenrotton

My original ignition switch broke (the ground wire separated from the post). I ended up buying a '69 mustang ignition switch and splicing it with the 1970 ignition switch plug. For some reason, after I installed the new ignition switch, the car turns on without the key in the ignition or will remain running even with the key removed from the ignition. I replaced the starter solenoid as I read that could be one reason for the problem, but the problem still remains. I also purchased a used original '70 ignition switch off of eBay, thinking that I perhaps damaged the original ignition switch or didn't wire it correctly. But I still have the same problem of the ignition turning on (not cranking, just on) without the key in the ignition. What could be causing this? Any suggestions on how to fix this? Thanks in advance! -Evan

Sure, I'll give that a try

I need some help, I'm having an issue with my coil wire boot melting. This is the second wire this has happened to. I have an msd ignition coil and hei spark plug wires. Any suggestions as to what is causing this? Could it be a bad ground on the coil?

I recently rewired my 70 with the American Autowire Classic Update kit. I have everything wired but now the car won't start. I hear the starter engage and I have a little over 12 Volts on both sides of the starter solenoid. I also have 12 volts on the starter solenoid on the mini starter. My msd 6al has power but the engine is not turning over. It's not even cranking; all I hear is a click from the starter when I crank it the ignition or I try starting it by jumping the starer solenoid. Hoping somebody here has a suggestion we can give me some guidance and what could possibly be the reason the engine won't even turn over.

Thank you everyone for your help! I;m going to reach out to aaw and see what they say

Can someone please confirm that this is the correct way to wire a mini starter?

ok thank you!

After speaking to Dakota Digital tech support, I discovered that the red wire from the transmission sending unit was powered and was overwhelming the control box (as it shouldn't be powered on its own; it gets power from the control box). Now everything works perfectly! Thanks for the help! Just two more question for you Vicfreg..Did you have to drill a hole in the fenderwells to run that wire? Also, how did you patch/close up the original holes on the firewall where the factory wiring was run?

I need both sides, how much do you want for the passenger side one?

I tried using a ground wire I attached to the body but it didn't seem to work. I am going to try attaching a ground wire to on of the tank's mounting bolts and see how that works. Thank you VIcfreg!

I purchased the fans and the fan controller from auto cool guy. But I am having a problem mounting the fans to my champion radiator. Anyone have any suggestions on how to create or where to purchase a mounting bracket?

Thanks S69Mach I have read about the contour fans but will it fit? Also what fan controller would you use?

To make a long story short, I'm trying to convert my cooling system to electric cooling fans. I live in the NYC area with lots of traffic and the offset 16" electric fan (without a shroud) is just not enough. I have a 302 with a champion 3 row radiator and a dual fan fan shroud (thinking that there wasn't enough clearance between a 16" fan with a fan shroud. This weekend I tried fitting (unsuccessfully) two spal 30102800 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30102800?cm_mmc=ppc-google-_-search-_-brands-_-keyword&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpbbbjPTb6gIVSZyzCh0-9g07EAAYASAAEgKJgvD_BwE) but unfortunately they were still too thick. I know they make thinner fans but the thinner ones don't seem to put out much CFMs. I'm just wondering what my options are and if anyone else has had any success running high cfm dual fans and for recommendations.

and thank you Vicfreg for the diagram

SO after calling my efi manufacturer, it turns out I needed carb spacer with pcv port as it was not getting enough vacuum from the air cleaner. But now I noticed that my oil pressure is at 35 psi when I am driving but when I come to a stop, the pressure drops down to 5 psi. I assume this isn't good, am I wrong?

Can I only use ssbc pads and rotors or is there another brand that is compatible with SSBC brake kits?

ok thanks

A long time ago I converted my front brakes to disc brakes using the ssbc kit. Well the time has come to replace my pads and rotors but as we know ssbc is out of business. I seen in the storm that people suggest Mustang Steve to update them with brakes from a newer Mustang. But I'm just wondering is there anyway that I can keep the original parts from ssbc and replace the pads and rotors from another brand/company or do I have to replace everything? (Like raybetos, powerstop, etc)

So I feel like a bit of a fool. How's your day going in Tuesday / I realize that I had a bad flasher and I didn't have the correct fuse installed. But thank you all for your help and suggestions, I really appreciate it

Awesome, I'll go check it out. Thank you!

I did but I feel like I need a wiring diagram for the ts to know exactly which wire is for which. I figured out the wires/connections for both horn wires, brake lights, Hazzard switch but it's the rest that I'm kind of lost. I tried guessing based on the wire colors on the camber of the ts switch but I obviously didn't get it right.

I'll give it a try and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion!

I can't really see the exact spot as the steering wheel blocks my view but it looks like it coming from the area near the Hazzard switch.

Need some help...i rewired my 1970 coupe with the American Autowire kit about a year ago and recently replaced my turn signal switch with a new one from CJ pony parts; the problem is that the wire colors on the new turn signal switch don't match the OEM turn signal switch. (Yes, it is the correct switch for my 70, non tilt steering wheel). Everything works with the exception of the blinkers (but hazzards work). The other issue I'm experiencing is a short with the brake lights. With the turn signal switch installed and steering wheel removed, the brake lights work perfect. But when I install/attach the steering wheel, the brake lights short out. I can actually see the Sparks whenever I rotate the steering wheel. Any help solving these issues would be greatly appreciated!

I have a 70 coupe that is having an issue with the turn signals and brake lights. Long story short, I rewired the car about a year ago with American Autowire and the car was without issues. Then suddenly my brake light fuse started blowing and then my turn signals stopped working. I'm aware it could be a short and when I spoke to american autowire, they advised me to replace my turn signal switch as well as my led flasher (as I have digi-tail led tailights). But after replacing the turn signal switch and flasher, my taillights stay on and don't flash and my horn doesn't work but the strange part is that my hazards work. .