demon69

That's interesting, look at the Centric web site which lists the rotor options... http://centriccatalog.com/Inquiry/AppResult.aspx?id=WEB_DISC&v=LD/MD&y=1969&m=54&mm=688

Hi There The rotors for the 351/390 are different to the 428/429 rotors but the specs for both seem similar. The standard caliper fits both rotors. Does anyone know the difference between the rotors, are they interchangeable? Thanks Peter

Hey Guys Thanks for the feedback, it has been really useful. First point, that link you gave me Brian was really helpful, particularly the image showing the orientation of the calliper and bleed screw. In my case, the bleed screw is facing up but it is not at the high point of the calliper reservoir. I have removed the calliper and re-bled the front brakes, there is definite improvement but I will need to go the process again to get a bit less pedal travel. What is the normal pedal travel you would expect when everything is good? Second point in answer to barnett468, yes, I posted this on the Aussie site as well. No unfortunately, the front brakes are not factory. I have attached a couple of images showing the brake pads and the callipers. Can you tell if the brake pads are the same as factory pads? Can you identify the supplier of the callipers, I will want to buy pads down the track.

Yes, bench bled MC before installing. As mentioned, I have good brake pedal up to the proportional valve, after that is the problem.

Hi I have a 69 Mach 1 with front disc and rear drum brakes. I recently replaced the master cylinder and I am now having trouble bleeding the front brakes, the rear brakes are okay. As a process of elimination, I blocked of port on the MC going to the proportional valve, firm pedal. I then reconnected the MC line to the proportional valve then blocked off the lines to the left and right brake callipers. Again, firm pedal. But when I re-connect the lines, re-bleed the front brakes, I have very little pedal pressure. Obviously there is still air in the lines and/or the callipers. I have bleed the brakes using the conventional method of pumping the brake pedal and opening and closing the bleed nipple in sequence, I have also tried using a vacuum hand bump to draw the fluid through but again no success. If any one has experienced a similar problem, I would appreciate your advice on rectifying this problem. It has become very frustrating as I have bled brakes many times before on different vehicles with 100% success. Thanks Peter

Thanks for your comments. One of the two lines which has no insulation is the one where the insulation has melted. I will cut away the moulding with the X to see where this wire runs to. I removed the tape and the corrugated tubing to get access to the wiring. One wiring loom passes through the inner guard to the alternator. It has 3 wires but only two are terminated, the main charge wire and the field wire. The alternator is earthed by a wire running from the alternator GRD to the engine block. Is this the usual wiring setup for the alternator? I was thinking that perhaps the wire that is not terminated may have been the original ground wire for the alternator.

Hi I am about to install a relay to provide power to an electric choke. From previous advice, I'm going to get power to energize the relay from the I terminal of the starter solenoid. With ignition on, there is only around 7v at the terminal but when starting, there is 12v, this will energize the relay. Has anyone tried this method and does it work okay? On another matter and a bit more disturbing, I found an earth wire with melted insulation going to the regulator, see attached pics. I believe this occurred before I purchased the car but not sure what has caused it. Does anyone have any clues? The wiring is a bit of a mess so I want to clean it up. The previous owner move the solenoid and reg from inside guard to outside as you can see. Secondly can you tell me what the part is with a X on it? Is it a kind of cable tie or is it there for some other reason?? The melted wire runs from the terminal on the reg to this junction. Thanks

Hi Danno Why do you use a circuit breaker for the electronic ignition?