demon69

Yes, the bushing and spacers are installed with the switch

Thank you everyone for your reply, appreciate the input. FYI, I have now used both brake switched, the -A and the -B for the same result. The guy who owned the car before me had the -A switch and had tried to shim it to make the brake switch work better but to no avail. I was thinking the problem is the spring pressure in the switch is too high but there is nothing I can do about that. I might try the shim method as outlined by Maxum96 but I'm still thinking the spring pressure is the problem. I will let you know how it works out. Cheers

Brian, does your brake light come on with a light touch of the brake peddle?

I have power disc and used C9ZZ-13480-B. So the problem is, I apply the brakes lightly to a point where it will slow the car but the switch is not activated, I have to brake harder for the switch to activate. So I can be in traffic slowing down but the driver behind wouldn't realise this because the brake lights are not activated. I know of other owners have had this problem and done away with the switch and used a GM switch....... Ditch the stupidly designed brake light switch & install a cheap universal switch (HQ/Chev). I mounted mine to a simple L bracket & strapped it to the steering column with two hose clamps. It's so much more reliable than the original & fully adjustable. Or using a micro switch...... So the micro switch is wired as "normally closed" so that the circuit is complete when the switch is "relaxed". When the pedal is fully up it closes the switch and opens the circuit and keeps the lights off. Very slight movement of the pedal closes the circuit and puts the light on before there is any actual braking. It's effectively fully adjustable by moving the point where its hose clamped to the column. Wiring wise I just made up an adaptor with some spade terminals to plug into the existing wiring plug that connects to the standard switch so nothing has been butchered and it's easily returnable to original condition (which is my case meant no brake lights). I left the old switch in place so there is no change in the relationship between the pedal and the master cylinder/booster rod. However, I would prefer to get the factory switch to work more efficiently if this is possible. Cheers Peter

Hi Just replaced the brake light switch on my 69 Mach1, unfortunately, its no better than the one I replaced. It is not sensitive enough to detect light peddle pressure, is there an adjustment that can be made or is there an alternative solution? Thanks Peter

Hi Has anyone here fitted the Lokar Transmission Dipstick (TD-3FMXFM) to 69 Mach1. Is it possible to remove the OEM transmission dipstick tube without having to drop the transmission. FYI, the dipstick in my Mach has never properly fitted, it alway come out of the tube by an inch or two after every drive. Now it seems to be stuck in the tube as I can pull it out more than a few inches and it jams. I'm concerned the tail on the dipstick might be getting caught as it come out of the trans. Anyone else has this problem. Anyway, I'm now planning to replace it with the Lokar TD-3FMXFM Thanks Peter

Hi I would like to know the typical radial runout specification for a flexplate, ie, measuring at the face of the ring gear teeth. Thanks

Hi I'm about to install new Dakota Digital instruments in a 69 Mach1. I have removed the original gauge cluster and I would like to pick-up some of the electrical connections (ie, turn signals and fuel level etc) from the male connector that plugged into the original instrument cluster printed circuit receptacle. Question.....is a female mating connector available for the male connector? (note that the original instrument cluster printed circuit receptacle is redundant now so I want to find a female connector that will accept the male plug) Thanks Peter

Once again, thank you all for the advice. It's a tough call. Unfortunately, I haven't got the opportunity to buy a second hand transmissions and have someone with experience to re-build it in Aus. In rough figures, it would cost around A$4K for GV and around $6K for 4R70W with the necessary options and controller. It's expensive but it would be great to have better fuel economy on longer trips. Added to my concern is I don't know the condition of the FMX. I have owned the car for 6 yrs but I don't have history before that. The box operates well although it only holds first gear for a very short time and tends to "clunk" into reverse at times. If the FMX is in good shape then GV is a good option. But if I had to re-build the FMX then maybe the 4R70W. It is something I will have to decide on in the new year. Cheers and best wishes for Christmas and the New Year. Peter

Thanks for the comments. I was originally keen on using the AODE but there seem to be quite a lot of dissatisfaction with it from the feedback I received. Finding a reputable supplier for one and there seemed to be issues with the kick down adjustment. Plus it is necessary to purchase a new crossmember, and controller and other parts that end up costing around $5K I live in Australia where there is little support for the AOD and on top of that, we have to add over 30% to the cost for exchange rate and shipping. The GV overdrive is under $3K and bolts up to the FMX so it is a less expensive and far easier conversion plus it is as solid as a rock. So on the basis of this, I considered it to be a good alternative to a 4 speed box.

Hi I have a 351W with FMX and Truetrac 3.5 rear. I'm thinking of installing a Gear Vendors overdrive for better fuel economy and reduced engine wear. If anyone has installed one, appreciate your advice on ease of installation and performance. Thanks Peter

69Stanger408, what brand coil overs have you installed? What do you have at the rear? Thanks

Actually, just went from stock 3.00 to 3.5 and it much more punchier now as you would expect. I haven't got a tacho but at our speed limit of 100kph, the speedo reads about 70mph. I have calculated the revs would be around 2800 at that speed which is not excessive. Rear tires are BF TA Radials, 235 60 15, I think the diameter is around 26.5 inches.

Thanks for the feedback, appreciate each of your comments. The price for the setup is similar from other suppliers like Summit and Jegs. There is another supplier a bit cheaper and claim to have an improved AOD... https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/transmission-aod-levels-2-3-dominator-junior-dominator-junior-extreme-550-and-600-hp-rated/ Do you know of this company and reputation? It's difficult in AUS as we don't have a the range of suppliers you guys have plus we have to add 25% to convert to A$, add 10% duty, plus freight at around $400. So the all up cost for me would be around A$5500. The question, is it worth paying $5.5K for an overdrive. I have a mild 351W and 3.5 rear with TrueTrac. With this setup, would be great to have overdrive. Cheers from down under. Peter

Thanks

G'day Would like to hear from anyone that has installed an AOD in a 69 Mach1, 351W with FMX. I am thinking of buying one but it would be great the have some feedback from anyone with experience. A complete kit is available from CJ Pony Parts... https://www.cjponyparts.com/aod-automatic-conversion-kit-289-302-351w-1967-1970/p/AODCK4/ Cheers

Hi Has anyone had any experience in fitting Fat Man Fabrications or other brand drop spindles to a 69. It enables a 2" drop but you can use standard coils and maintain full suspension travel. On paper it's a good thing but how good is it in the "real" world? http://www.fatmanfab.com/product/dropped-uprights-and-dropped-spindles Thanks Peter

RPM, by how much did you raise the bump stop? Thanks

Thanks all for the feedback... SM69Mach....yes, it is bottoming out on the bump stops. Your car sits low, do you have any problem with it bottoming out? What size wheels/tires do you have, what mods have been done to the suspension to lower it? RPM....your spring cover looks completely different to the stock cover, do you know of anyone selling shortened spring covers or brackets? When you ran the suspension thru the bounce and jounce without the springs, what was the extent of travel, ie, what physically limited the travel in either direction. General comment....If you remove the bump stops per MikeStang or shorten the bump stops, is there any chance the ball joints will bind when the suspension is run thru the bounce and jounce.

SM69Mach....yes, it is bottoming out on the bump stops. Your car sits low, do you have any problem with it bottoming out? What size wheels/tires do you have, what mods have been done to the suspension to lower it? DocWork....thanks for the info, I will look into this. RPM....thanks, look forward to seeing the pics, like to see the side on view of the car as well. I have attached a pic of my Mach1 so you can see how it sits. It has 235/55 R 16 on the rear and 215/55 R 16 on the front.

Hi I have a 69 Mach1 that was lowered before I bought it. It is fairly low, I would estimate at least 2" may be more so the travel is reduced particularly at the front. It only has 1/2" travel to the bump stop on the left hand side and 1" travel on the RHS. The suspension is stock other than the lowered springs (not sure what brand) and Koni Classic shocks. I would appreciate advice on how I can increase the travel other than raising the vehicle. I was thinking of reducing the size of the bump stops but that is a crude option particularly as the bump stops are designed to be progressive. Another option mentioned was to cut a section out of the inner shock tower support and weld it back together, the original bump stop can then be retained. But there is quite a bit of work in order to do this. I expect other members will have experienced this problem and come up with a good solution. Thanks Peter

Hi There Just wanting to hear from anyone who has recently installed the Borgeson 14:1 ratio power steering box. How does the car drive, have you found improvement over the factory set-up. Thanks Peter

Hi I have a 69 with factory power steering, the control valve is buggered. I am considering upgrading to a Borgeson box but have mixed messages concerning the power steering pump. Some say the factory pump will be okay, others say you require the Saginor P/S pump?? Secondly, is the drive that much better with the Borgeson box that it is worth paying the extra cost vs the cost of replacing the control valve. Appreciate your comments based on your experience. Thanks Peter.

Likewise for me, a little confusing. Per Flanders pic, there appears to be two mounting points at the bottom, one for the belt and one for the retractor, this is the set-up I want to use. It appears belt is located in the original position for a lap belt but the retractor is mounted a couple of inches or so back from the belt mount. Am I on the right track? If so, is there a factory mounting hole for the retractor? Thanks Aussie demon69

Hi there I am writing from Australia, great info, thanks. My 69 only has lap belts so it is great to know I can up-grade to lap/sash. One point I missed in the thread is regarding the mounting of the base retractor, is there a factory hole for the retractor? Secondly, once the retractor has been installed, is there room (clearance) to move the seat all the way back? Thanks Peter