sherriepl3

Well, here we are the day before Thanksgiving. Some of us are stuck at work, some are traveling, and others are already out in the garage being thankful for the horsepower that has been given them.
 
We will be closed tomorrow and Mike will be the only guy answering the phone Friday (7-3) and Saturday (8-1).  That's Pacific time, of course. You can also stop in for will calls. However, that's not the only way you can save.
 
We are not going to limit our sales to just one day, or just one weekend. All of the special pricing and discount codes are live NOW on our website.  They're good through December 31st. You can use them ordering online or over the phone.
 
 
CLICK HERE To View Sales and Discount Codes on Suspension and Chassis Components from Total Control Products!
 

Hello all after being here for over 7 years & seeing other builds I figured it is time for me to start one on my 69 Coupe. I aquired the 69 Coupe back in 2001, & when I aquired the car it was being used as a parts car stripped of almost anything useable. It was missing both doors, the interior except for the dash, the engine & the trans were long gone, & was missing one fender. After 4 moves & one failed business venture I am back working on the 69 Coupe. The Coupe was originally equipped with a 302, auto, 8" 2.79 rear, standard black interior, painted meadowlark yellow, & built in Metuchen, NJ on Nov 26th, 1968. My plans for the car are to make it a restomod, 331 stroker, 5 spd trans, 9" rear with 3.70 gears, painted green with black GT side stripes & a 1970 Mach-1 hood stripe with the Mach-1 hood scoop, front & rear spoilers. Black standard interior with 1970 Mustang high back buckets, center console & Mach-1 r/s dash panel with clock. As far as wheels & tires the wheels I had on my first Mustang were Ansen sprint slotted wheels & I want those or the 68/69 GT wheels with BFG T/A radials 235/60-15's. The wiring will be completely redone using an American auto wire kit for the 69 Mustang. I will get some pics put on soon.
Mike.

Item Location, Quakertown Pennsylvania.  $450.00 

There will be a car show Sat Aug, 27th in my home town of Sardinia.  Last year there was over 100 cars and they expect that much or more this year.  I hope to have my heap there and and my sons 65 c10 and my 63 F100.  
 
They have 25 different awards to be given out.
 
My wife and I (more her) own a mom and pop restaurant in the middle of town.  We have our own award to give to which one we like the most.  I will prob have my son, who has the C10 pick. He's 9 so it's hard to tell what he will like the most.  
 
Registration is from 9 am to noon.  Awards at 4:00, 10 dollar entry fee.

I just picked these up for $25/each. I saw the speakers location and thought that was actually a great spot to mount them. I also thought there might be enough room to build a speaker box on the inside....thought being that it might greatly improve the bass response. The holes are 4 3/4" diameter (could squeeze in 5"). I was thinking these 2 spots and add the one in the dash would be a great way to add sound without too much trouble. I have over 100 tunes from 1969 on a Spotify playlist for when I want to time travel :) oh yeah....going to power the speakers with this.....
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/231956573080
 
TDA7492P Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Digital Amplifier Board AUX 12V 24V CAR
 
 
 
Anyone else make use of these speaker locations?

Try as I might, the interweb has not given up any details on what seals the trunk compartment off from the passenger compartment when the rear seat is fixed on my '70 sportsroof.
 
I want to stop gas fumes coming through from the trunk as much as I can, so was there a panel that did this? And if there was, who stocks new ones?

I need to replace the rim blow switch in my steering wheel.  I purchased a switch made by Daniel Carpenter.  Any tips to get the new switch installed into the groove?  The switch will just not go in.  The groove in the steering wheel is clean.  I tried soapy water like the instructions mention.  First it seems like the rubber is not flexible enough.  Second, it looks like the copper strips have slid out of the rubber, or the rubber is too short.  At each end the copper strip with the wire soldered to it sticks out about 1/2".  Can the copper strips be pushed back in?  Or is that normal as long as they don't touch each other after installed.  I don't want to get too aggressive pushing this switch into the groove.  The last time I replaced one of these was about 20 years ago.  Back then it was a Ford part. I had no trouble installing it.
 
Anybody else use this particular brand switch?  I there a better brand switch? 

Hey guys, 
 
I want better handling in my car. I want it to handle like a newer car (some say you can't do it, others say you can get it better than a newer car). I started out with 5k in mind, but I just got a quote from TCP for $10,500. Now that's a complete suspension (Rack, Upper and lower, coilover, strut rods, antiroll, pumps, hoses etc for front, Subframe Connectors and G-bar coilover setup with antiroll in the rear). I definitely want the internals of my car to be brand new since I'm slowly transforming this car into a daily driver for decades to come. 
 
I'm just double checking my work to make sure this is the route I should go or are there components I should switch out from TCP to another brand? Also, I would love to have a lower cost, but I've heard that Unisteer is a cheap rack from a few different shops. I've also heard cons about Flaming River. 
 
Who has switched to a Rack? How do you feel about it? 
 
As of now I have a pretty stock car with a fairly new manual steering box, Willwood disks all around, 18" wheels and it's fun to drive. I'm just getting sick of manual and I'd like it to handle better around corners and be easier to drive. 

hi,  i can't find it in the repair manuals,   the power steering cyl that mounts to the frame,  the bracket on the frame has a 3/4 or 7/8 hole that the cyl rod goes thru,  does any one have a picture of what or how is used to hold it in place?,    i made a nylon type washer to fit in the hole and 2 nylon washers outside the shole to hold it in place,  but  i don't think its right,   does any one know?,  thanks    jerry

1970 Sportsroof, currently 302W and C4
What would I need to bolt in a FE engine (390 in this case)?
Anyone gone down this road and regretted it?
 
I'm guessing a C6 might be required or is thereT5 conversion parts available?

Ronnie broad head has died .A few of you locals may have met him . He was a record setter drag racer in the early 60s. In 1963 he was the points winning champion and just an all around nice guy and friend . A piece of racing history is now gone .
 
Here is the 1964 Hot Rod Magazine article .I always wanted to get it autographed ,but the one time i mentioned it he just chuckled .Good by Ronnie, you will be missed .

 
 

Guys,
I have a 1970 coupe
I am looking to get some input on these following parts suppliers.
 
www.cal-mustang.com
www.macsautoparts.com
www.mustangsunlimited.com
www.cjponyparts.com
www.scottdrake.com
www.aapd.net
www.npdlink.com
 
What I am looking for is which supplier has better deals and are good to work with or completely stay away from.
The other thing is how is availability with the supplier? and do they take care of back orders in a timely manner.
 
If you have better experience with a supplier not listed please let me know.
 
 
Thanks in advance
 
Henk
 
 
 
 
 

So, my headlights are uber dim. On top of that when I hit the high beams they turn on all 4 lights, but start surging/blinking on for a second off for a second (repeat). When I take the high beams off it is just 2 dim headlights that don't shine any further than 10ft. So, I bought some LED headlights that are supposed to be 3-4x brighter and they are also dim. I'm guessing I'm not pulling enough power. I don't know how to fix that problem. New wiring harness? New alternator? All or none of the above?

Hi all,
 
I am starting to get prices to start the resto-mod on my 1969 mach. I took my car to a body and frame shop last night to get the idea of how to start. As we were chatting he asked me what parts that I will be using (specifically quarters, doors, and floor). I said that I have heard a lot of good things about Dynacorn. He then went on to say that he has never had any luck with Dynacorn parts, but I also know that he mostly restores GM cars. Does this make a difference in dynacorn? I have tried to find the company that uses the ford tooling to buy those parts with no luck. I was wondering if anyone here knows who produces the parts with Ford tooling? If no one does, what is the next best option?
 
The options that I know of:
 
1. Dynacorn
2. Junk yard parts (not really in favor of this option, as the car is not going to be numbers matching)
3. Ford Repo parts?
4. Chinese parts (not going to do this)
 
Thanks for all the help in advance!!
 
Drew

looking for a mach 1 clock for parts or complete. mostly just need the set gear and spring   thanks 

Also, tell him to lower his antenna. They look dorky all the way extended! :lol:

I recently had my wiring harness refurbished by Midlife and among the things he found were various burned connectors, including the ignition switch. So finally having the time to put in the new harness I discover what made the ignition switch burn. It looks like they burned the connector and then bypassed just to get it working.
 
I now see that finding a repro switch is pretty difficult as they are out of stock most everywhere, so I got to wondering. Is there a way to repair this keeping in mind that my electrical knowledge is pretty much at the novice level?
 


 
 

Have a factory ac car, all original components installed, cools to an extent. What all is involved switching system to R134

High performance motor with 4.1inch stroke, aluminum heads, that will see <5,000mi/year.  Has anyone done this to a 1969 block and how did it fare?

Have a C4 and an AOD I don't need.
C4 is not working and came out of my 66 Coupe... Don't know the condition other than it doesn't work and fluid is a mess...it will need an overhaul.
AOD came with the car and fluid looked good so it probably works.
Local pick up only..
Would trade for a steering box for my 66 that's in good shape.
Or cash offers for both transmissions will work to.
I'm in Lake Charles LA
235-241-3278 call or text

Curious if any members are close to the Nashville, Tennessee area.

On my 69 Mach One 351W with stock ignition, points and condensor. The Ultra Lite series tach is in a 6 gauge bezel and the other gauges work. 
 
I installed it as per the instructions:
 
12v fused power, which it has,
Source feed wire from the negative coil post, 
A good ground, which servers as the ground for other working parts on the car.
 
All of the wires have continuity and power when the engine is running.
The engine starts right up, and runs smooth.
All of the connections, wires and routing have been checked 6 plus times.
I ran additional separate wires from the harness for the 12v power, coil wire and ground w/o success.
I hooked up a break in stand tach I had using separate wiring w/o success.
I bought a 3rd tach in case the first 2 were bad, it didn't work either.
Bought and tried a second coil, no luck
Every connection and wire crimp has been checked several times.
 
I switched the coil wire from the negative post to the positive post on my break in stand tach and it worked properly.
I hooked up the Auto Meter tach to the positive coil post, no tach needle movement.
I called Auto Meter who said the wire connects to the negative coil post. If connected to the positive it will burn up the tach.
 
Everything I've read or heard has the coil negative post used for the tach. Until this experience I've always thought tach wiring was a close second to hooking up the battery for ease of installation on these cars. I'm beginning to think I really don't need a tach in the car. 
 
Has anyone had a similar experience or ideas? I'm open to any and all suggestions, other than what I've already tried many times. 
 
Thanks.

I don't drive my car as much as I would like--it has been sitting in my storage unit for the last couple of months. I took it out Saturday evening and after first start up, in gear, the engine will surge up and down maybe 500 rpms. Pop it into neutral and it goes back to idling fine. This is only when I am siting in D or R with my foot on the brake or if I am slowly backing out of the drive way.
 
After warm up, the problem goes away.
 
Fuel issue? I have never been one to use Stabil or some other fuel storage additive but recently picked up some.

Trying to work the bugs out of a new combination.
 

Anybody going next weekend? June 24-25-26.