bosephus

The tinman's are probably the most unobtrusive IMO. They look like they could've come from the factory(if that's important to you). Any of the three would do the job.

I had to do a little whittling on the Pro shift shifter that came with my t-5 . IIRC it had a big ring on the top of the shifter that wouldn't allow it to come through from the bottom so I trimmed a "flat" on each side. This may have been limited to the particular shifter I had or I might have had the room to bolt the shifter on from the top after installing the transmission(I didn't want to remove the transmission again if I didn't have the room). But no mods to the tunnel were made.

I didn't have to do any tunnel mods to replace an fmx with a t5 in my 69 Mach. I sourced the trans and bell off of Craigslist and used Modern Drive line for the hydraulic clutch,crossmember and other bits. Modern was very helpful with advice even though I didn't buy the trans through them. Solid,stand up company with whom I will do business with again. I am very happy with my hydraulic clutch(slave cylinder version) and would recommend it. Whichever way you go,three pedals is a lot of fun! Bo

They did come out small!,pics shrunk somehow between the transition from phone to tablet.t hanks,Bo

I'm not really so much on a budget, I just don't want to replace parts that don't need to be replaced. Sorry,i was as clear as mud about that! Those link bar lifters are pricey but cheap compared to a rebuild caused by a wiped lobe. I've never broken in a flat tappet cam and just thought it would be easier to go roller. The only parts I have so far are the heads(fresh from machine shop) and the carb. Still need intake,cam,lifters,pushrods,timing chain all the gaskets and possibly new rockers.Thanks,Bo

Those rockers in the pics are (I think)comp roller tip rockers that came with the used heads I purchased. I won't be using the stock ones that are currently in the car. Thanks!Bo

I'm glad you shared your experience with the comp rockers because those were the ones I was looking at. They appear to be compact enough to maybe fit underneath stock valve covers. I agree with you on the scorpions, I have a set in another project,even though it's a #%@vy

I have done a t5 conversion and added 3.70 rear gears with an Eaton trutrack. Carb is a Holley 650 DP,Intake will probably be a performer rpm because I have my doubts that an air gap would fit under the hood. I will need a new distributor or a rebuild of the original. I like the idea of a roller cam for the "no worry"break in and modern oil compatibility.I'm still in the parts collecting phase so I haven't torn into the engine to see what I'm working with as far as piston,bore,piston to deck etc to check CR.Goal for the car is a weekend cruiser that can ruin tires at will while still having decent street manners. Car is a power brake,power steering, factory a\c car if that matters. Thanks!Bo

These rockers came with a pair of performer rpm heads that I bought used. My concerns are that the "balls" seem discolored. I'm all about saving a buck when I can but I don't want to do anything foolish. This is not going to be a drag racer,i just wanted to wake up my 351w with a head,intake and cam swap. I would like to go with a hydraulic roller cam if that makes any difference. Keeping the stock valve covers would be nice.Any advice is appreciated,Bo

I'm no expert by any definition but I had this same problem with a Holley blue pump in a $#@vy truck. I guess my feed wires weren't big enough to support the pump causing it to overheat and shut down. I think having the "dead headed" pressure regulator didnt help matters either. Ran a 12 gauge wire and relay and no problems since. Bo

I bent a piece of aluminum and mounted it on the same flange that the export brace bolts to. I will try to post pics

I mounted mine on the "gutter"rail on the top side of the fire wall just inboard of the brake booster

Will check the angles with the tremec tool app. The new crossmember came from modern driveline and went in without a fight so I thought I was good. I should have gotten the angles before I took it apart. Thanks,Bo

I've just completed a rebuild of the differential in my car. I used 3.70 gears and added a tru-trac while I was there. Pattern was good,preloaded carrier bearings,pinion was on the tight side (29 inch pounds of preload) but within spec.New balanced driveshaft was installed along with a t-5 transmission. Problem is at @ 60 mph it gets a vibration/ buzz . Acceleration sometimes quiets it down while coasting seems to make it just a bit worse.The rear probably has less than 50 miles on it and seems to not bother me as much with each cruise. Does this sound like a "break -in " thing or should I be concerned. I don't want to trash that tru-trac,that thing was expensive. Tell me what you think! Thanks,Bo

I'll have to look into the lokar ,I've only found ones from Scott Drake or Dynacorn. Is the Lokar a "bolt in" for the original or do you have to modify things? Thanks,Bo

Anyone use one of the repop and if so how was the fit/quality. I just did a t5 conversion and my original won't hold tension. Thanks,Bo

Title says it all,mine won't hold tension and I just did a t5 conversion. I know they are available aftermarket but not sure of the quality, thanks!

Thanks for the replies, the car will be used as a weekend driver. It may get beat on but autocrossing/track days are not in the plans. The car just felt really limber is why I built the connectors. I do want to add caltracs or something similar but funds have run out. I just put 3.70 gears and and a tru-trac in and am wrapping up a t5 conversion so the caltracs will have to wait.

I built these connectors awhile back but I'm now having second thoughts about installing them. Im wondering if it is worth doing or not. I'm also unsure if it would prohibit any future plans for caltracs or some other traction devices. What's your opinion on this?

After fighting it all day yesterday I was calling that thing all kinds of names!I don't know why I was stuck on condenser lol.

Where are you guys getting these from? Classic auto air,vintage air,Wccc? I don't know if they are all the same but I would like to get the best one I can find. I don't want to tackle this project again. On the bright side,with the lower dash out there is lots of room to install that third pedal I've been wanting!

Wondering if I should buy a new condenser or run the original. I had to replace the heater core and want to sort this while I'm here cause I definitely don't want to do this again. I'm leaning towards a new one but heard that the replacements weren't that great. Pics are of the problem area.Thanks,Bo

How much for the vents shipped to 78382? Thanks,Bo

I like the logo on front cars on back in both colors. White for the car show and black when the heat index isn't in the triple digits!