Vicfreg

My "before" and "after".

Bob, good luck. I hope what you have here is the result of the aluminum intake corrosion from the outdoor conditions depositing in your heads. For my 1970 convertible, I got my '69 351W engine out of a car that was sitting in a trailer park for years. When I first saw it, I was not encouraged. But, honestly, once I got the engine on the stand, and took it apart, it became a pretty predictable project. I started with a vintage engine. You are starting with top quality parts. So, I think it will work out well for you. Please keep us posted..... Vic

Yes, same here. I also outsource the paint and body work. I don't have the talent/patience for it... Having just gone through this experience, I can share some lessons learned, as my car was painted during the summer. You can send me a message on the forum and I can get you my contact info and we can have a call about some things I would do differently. I may have your # but, send the info anyway. Vic

I decided to depart from the Woodgrain look and had my main dash and passenger side dash inserts painted body color when my car was recently painted. It goes nicely with my VHX silver faced gauges. In my quest to avoid messing up the paint on the passenger side dash piece, my question is what kind of screws are used to fasten the metal dash insert to the map light assembly? I would really like to use some chrome/stainless sheet metal screws with captive washers (aka SEMS) so the screw head doesn't mess up my paint. I assume the same concern would apply when installing a recently restored woodgrain dash insert with new Vinyl or Di Noc. Map light is not original, it is a Scott Drake reproduction. Any advice/suggestions/lessons learned would be appreciated. Vic

Oops.....I originally posted this in the "Garage" Forum, so reposting here......

This is the map light, not original, Scott Drake reproduction.

I decided to depart from the Woodgrain look and had my main dash and passenger side dash inserts painted body color when my car was recently painted. It goes nicely with my VHX silver faced gauges. In my quest to avoid messing up the paint on the passenger side dash piece, my question is what kind of screws are used to fasten the metal dash insert to the map light assembly? I would really like to use some chrome/stainless sheet metal screws with captive washers (aka SEMS) so the screw head doesn't mess up my paint. I assume the same concern would apply when installing a recently restored woodgrain dash insert with new Vinyl or Di Noc. Any advice/suggestions/lessons learned would be appreciated. Vic

Unless you are having issues with the rear end making noise, you might want to consider just driving it. I had this idea years ago with my '68, and once I pulled the axles and carrier, found issues with the teeth on the gearset and axle seals, etc, etc. So, easy to head into a rebuild/refurbish once you open things up. Vic

Thanks...the body shop guys thought I was crazy... but it came out pretty cool.

Thanks for the info. I have found another manufacturer set of visors, and will try them. I am not thrilled about taking off my visor brackets and header piece after I spent a couple hours getting it perfectly aligned. Ugh... I will post some info on how it works out.... Vic

My thread is “1970 Convertible Restoration” in the project progress forum. I haven’t installed my dash yet, still working on some other stuff. Lots of other post there though.

I had both the main dash and the driver side panels finished and painted in body color. I just put it together. I have the VHX silver face gauges, with blue backlight. It should be a great look when installed.

Next step here is to take the door, lock out, and somehow painted, or coat it back. Actually have a set of door lock cylinders from late 1980s Mustang, that are black from the factory, I’m gonna try to install those. Not sure if they fit.

Yes, these are good pictures Thanks. I’m just gonna do the best I can to make it look good, not that anyone’s really gonna look there anyway lol

Yeah, I would say about three hours apart from each other

Hi Mike, Happy Thanksgiving also. I have several sets that are new/unused. I can send you an email with some pictures. I also have a bunch of extra parts I need to unload that are in my storage locker. I can send you pics of those also. I have all the parts I need to finish my car. I think I have your email somewhere, but send it again via the Forum IM

Anyone have a picture they could post of their convertible A-Pillar windlace where it meets the visor bracket? Not sure how to trim it so it looks right. It is at an odd angle, seems like I should cut it at maybe a 45 degree angle? Also, do I run the windlace under the door sill plate, or just butt it up to the plate? Thanks! Vic

Nice Work! Nice shop..... Like your Hubcap collection....

I also have had issues with the Neutral Safety Switch, and/or ignition switch wiring. For the in-dash ignition switch, I have a similar set up on my '68 as '69, and wound up replacing my in-dash switch. It was just worn out after 50+ years. The internal contacts were shot. Ersin, hope you are doing well. Vic

Pete, this is so cool. Your ability to design and then actually create some of these amazing items is astounding. I hope that you can pass these skills on to someone. For sure, a long lost art. Well done!

This was not easy. I initially picked up a set of Ring Brothers handles at Carlisle a couple years ago. They are custom style/shape/configuration, and powder coated in a kind of subtle wrinkle black finish. However, they are not "plug and play" type of parts, and require some slight mods to the door handle opening in the door skin. I did a fit up test before my car was painted, but did not try it with the door handle actuators mounted. This turned out to be a big problem, as I could not rotate the handles to get them to line up. So, on to Plan B which was to find another set that was more "stock" in configuration. I finally found a set of black, powder coated door handles that looked pretty close to stock configuration. I took a chance on E Bay and ordered them. Turns out they are super high quality, custom machined out of billet pieces. I tried to install them and then realized that the lock actuators I had (at least 3 sets) did not work. (I will say that none of the black handles I ordered had door lock actuators with them.) Anyway, I ordered a set of Scott Drake "satin" door handles, and they are an excellent quality set of door handles. I took the actuators off of them, and put them on my black billet door handles, and they worked perfectly. I will post the E Bay seller that I got the black handles from. They are really nice, and well designed and thought out. I commend them for taking the time to somehow CNC machine these out of solid billet, and powder coat them black. So, I have at least 3 sets of nice door handles for sale if anyone wants them.....I will give you the "family" price.... Vic

Finally got my black doorhandles on. Had to use a different actuator to get the doorhandles to fit and work properly.

Finally, success. The Scott Drake doorhandles were supplied with the correct actuators. I swapped them to my black doorhandles. Picture below, of the correct, actuators, and the doorhandles.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I have used fat Matt, I believe Mike I got some from you a couple years ago. I’ve also used some duct insulation from Lowe’s, that has a foil cover. I used it on my other car. I found some dyna mat on sale the other day on Amazon, so I bought a box of it. It’s pretty easy to use, but once it solidifies, it’s hard as hell to get off. I agree. Was wondering if there was any kind of foam or other insulation you could put inside your backseats to quiet it down from there. Any suggestions would be appreciated

Got my power amp, subwoofer, and PWM fan controller final mounting and wiring done today.