Vicfreg

Oh, one item that is also very neat is the relay pack that you see in the bottom picture. It allows you to run halogen headlights, and fog lights. The kit also supports the 1969 dual headlight setup. You can see my writing.... LB - Low Beam, HB - High Beam, FG - Fog (driving lights), HN - Horn, IG - Ignition. The ignition relay is only used on 1970s. It is there to allow the use of the column mounted ignition switch that was used in 1970, versus the 1969 dash mounted switch. There is a nice pre-assembled jumper wire kit that comes with the AAW package that plugs into the 1970 factory connector.

Moving on my wiring harness. Got it wrapped (used Scotch 88 electrical tape). Tedious process, kinda like wrapping your baseball bat handle, or for those from the great white north, like wrapping the blade and handle on your old wooden Sherwood Hockey Stick..... Anyway, spent a lot of time accounting for all of the stuff I need to wire, and where that will land on the AAW harness. Turns out, there are plenty of power feeds available, both directly from the battery, and also "key on hot" feeds. All are fused. An example is the picture below that shows a connector with a tag on it. This is an auxiliary power connector that AAW provides under the dash. In my case, I am going to use one of the power feeds for my power top. It was intended for power windows or other accessory, and has a dedicated 30 amp fuse. This will allow me to keep the wiring in the car, and eliminate the OEM fusible link/circuit breaker wiring harness that is fed from the starter solenoid under the hood. Another example is that the harness has courtesy light feeds for the fastback "dome" lights. I will use them to install new LED lights in my trunk, that will now work off of the door jamb switches. Cool! Once I get my firewall pad installed, I will put the fuse box and harness back in the car, and then install my Vintage Air unit. Thank goodness that these '69 and '70 cars have a removable dash...! I spent countless hours on my '68 laying on my back under the dash doing this...

Hi Bob...yep, I have a lot of extra wires to account for, and the head unit and trunk mounted amplifier are on my list to catalog all of the various wires, like the one you mentioned.

Nicely done. I am a control systems engineer, and used to work off of drawings like this during my younger days. I love it.

September 23, 2017 - 6:00am through Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 4:00pm 5555 Concord Pkwy. South Charlotte Motor Speedway Concord 28027

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Nice find on that relay box! Do you have a picture of it installed?

I have a 393 stroker, using a serpentine set up. I used an Edelbrock reverse rotation high flow water pump and and a the stock timing cover, as I wanted to use a mechanical fuel pump. My dipstick remains in the stock position. There are some pics on my project site "1970 convertible", but have included one here. Ran the engine on the test stand, works perfectly.

Not really. You should see the condition of my original harness. It is crap. I am going to run a lot of accessories, so it was the best option for me.

If you give me the stock part numbers, I have some 351 W brackets, as I went to a serpentine system. Let me know if you need them. MustangTek has a great site to identify these http://www.mustangtek.com/Fordparts/FordandMustangbracket.html

I did a slight retreat yesterday, to make sure I had all of my anticipated wiring items identified. Of course, I found some things I had wanted to do, so I decided to take the harness out, since I really had not terminated anything yet. My additions are going to be in the trunk area, where I want to use an extra couple wires that are in the AAW rear harness to run some accessories in the trunk. Namely, my power amp "turn on" from the head unit in my dash, and some LED trunk lighting that I want to tie into my door switch/courtesy light feed. I will use the optional 3rd brake light wire and add another wire to the AAW rear harness plug so I have a nice, neat cable going from front to rear. After some research, I decided to wrap my harness with Scotch "88" electrical tape. I also sent some questions to AAW to make sure I understood which hot feeds were "key on" versus "battery hot". They responded almost immediately, and have been very helpful. I sourced some MIL-SPEC battery cables on Ebay that I will re-purpose for my trunk mounted battery wiring. There are quite a few of these on Ebay, and are new, surplus parts from HumVees, etc. The ones I got are size 0 AWG and are pre-crimped. You can't beat the price, and for sure, the quality. These Presolite cables have over 1000 strands of tin plated copper wire. I will buy some size 1 or 2 cables to feed my power amp in the trunk.

Good question. (I actually am using a Jegs high torque mini starter). Since I have a trunk mounted battery, I don't want an unfused wire that is running from the back of the car to the front that is hot all of the time. With my set up, the starter wire is only hot when the trunk mounted solenoid is energized while you are starting the car. The other wires that are hot (like the main fuse box feed) will be protected by either fusible links, or MIDI fuses. My experience has been that the starter draws too much current to install a fuse that will not blow when the starter motor is cranking, but still protect the cable.

Decided to start with the back of the car, as I will be using a trunk mounted battery. The AAW kit has a separate rear wiring harness that can accommodate all of the stock items typically found in the rear of the car, plus allows use of LED taillights, and a 3rd brake light if desired. A couple pics showing the connector under the dash, and the wiring going through the drivers side hole, and routed through the floor channel to the back of the car. I used nylon split wire loom to encase it. One note - In my case, with the convertible, I have the original plus a spare power top wiring harness which I will re-use. For my trunk mounted battery, I purchased a raw steel Optima battery tray from Artec that was designed for back mounting. I will use this to mount my battery accessory plate to. This plate is 1/2" Birch Plywood sandwiched in between some steel sheet. I plan to mount my battery disconnect switch, remote mounted starter solenoid, and some battery terminal junction blocks here. A picture of the mock up in my trunk is below. Everything is in primer for now. You probably noticed my starter solenoid is mounted upside down. That is intentional for now. I am likely going to use some MIDI fuse holders, and just playing with the layout for now.

Thanks for this, very helpful!

Ok. I am running behind on my chores here lately, so I will try and post some pictures over the weekend.

Incredible work, Mike.

Started my wiring project. Using an AAW harness. Will post pictures as I go along. My first chore was to install the fuse block. I did not use the long sheet metal screws, as I did not like the screw protruding through the firewall in the fender area. I used 10-24 threaded studs from Lowes, and stainless steel acorn nuts on the outside and nylock nuts on the inside. The AAW template is excellent and the holes fit perfectly. I drilled my holes from the outside, which I could do, as my fenders are off. Drilling from the inside will require some patience. Posted a question in the Technical Forum about suggestions on where to locate/mount the AAW relay pack. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Any suggestions on where to locate the relay pack that comes with the AAW wiring harness? See picture below

I have this set up from Pacific Thunder Performance. https://www.pacificthunderperformance.com/pages/welcome You can look at their stuff on line, and call them to buy it. Really nice hardware and works great. I also have their adjustable strut rods. As I recall the bolts are 1/2 diameter, 4-1/2" long Grade 8. There is a spacer made out of 1/2" pipe, flat washers, and lock nuts. Also includes the 1/4" thick eccentric eliminator plates. For my 1970 convertible, I pushed the bolt and LCA outboard to the furthest position and used the eccentric eliminator plate hole that lined up the best. With the car on jack stands (on the frame rails) and no weight on the suspension, I set the camber at (+) 3/4. With weight on the suspension (jack stands under the LCA) and no engine in the car, the camber settled in at (+1/8). My target is zero, or slightly negative. So, once I get the engine in the car, I will recheck it. For sure, easier to set it up when the car is a bare chassis, like mine. I have Open Tracker roller LCAs. The first picture is of the PTP kit. The second picture is the drivers side front LCA bolt and eccentric eliminator plate. The third picture is the underside of the passenger side LCA and cross member attachment with (from left to right) the eccentric eliminator plate, spacer, flat washer, cross member, flat washer, and locknut. Third picture is front view of my current state of suspension and steering build.

HI Bill, no problem. Happy to help. Thanks!

Ok, will post a few more pics to explain what is going on at the back of the car and how the cable is routed. First pic is the old cable with the rubber bushing. Cut the cable end off, and slide the cable out, then cut the cable sheath and save the bushing. In my case, I had already purchased new original style cables long ago, so I used them. Second pic shows the new cable with the old cable rubber bushing installed on it, sitting in the stock rear frame bracket Third pic shows how I squeezed the new cable and old bushing into the rear frame bracket. I bent one tab forward and one tab rearward to make enough room to get the new style cable in. I chose to install the cable outer protective cover into the rear frame bracket to try and avoid damaging the actual cable sheath. Some vice grips and a little patience worked. I bent the tabs back, and now need to add this area to my undercarriage paint touch up list. Next pic shows the passenger side cable final install with the rubber bushing and frame bracket tabs bent back into their original position. You will note my subframe connectors. Last pic is cable running under axle to Cobra rear disc brake caliper. Blurry, but you get the idea. I used the stock cable outer sleeve and placed that under the rear axle housing tube to avoid messing up the finish there.

I just installed a panhard bar suspension on my '70 convertible, pics are posted on my project forum. I used Poly bushings. I have not driven the car yet, but I have Poly bushings on my '68 and I like the way the car handles, but sacrificed some ride quality for it.

Thought I would post some pictures from my most recent chore for my 1970 convertible project (see project forum if you are interested). This project was to somehow hook up my 2004 Mustang Cobra rear disc brakes to my 1970 parking brake foot pedal mechanism, and try to make it look half way decent. I decided to use the late model brake cables and various pieces and parts to put this together, so here are the details: Parts: 2 - OEM style brake cables (Dorman C95240 or Wagner BC 140110) from local auto parts store 4 - Umpco 3/8" diameter rubber insulated line clamps (aviation grade) from Ebay 1 - Dorman 21126 Emergency brake cable repair kit (used the large connector) 1 - Stock front parking brake cable assembly (hooks to pedal) from Mustang supplier (can use your original if in good shape) 2 - Rear parking brake cable assemblies (these are "sacrificial", so you can use your old ones if you have them) 1 - Box of 10 - 11 Gauge wire crimping sleeves (from Tractor Supply) 1 - Stock cable " hook" assembly for passenger side of frame (Mustang Supplier) 2- Brake line brackets, 90 degree type (Speed shop) Self tapping screws, or 1/4"-20 bolts/nuts/washers Heat shrink Tools: Cut off wheel (I used my 20v DeWalt angle grinder) Large wire crimper, or in my case, a battery terminal crimping tool and a BFH (hammer) Superglue Installation Notes: Install stock brake cables into Cobra calipers (don't forget retaining clip), route cables under axle and up to the stock parking brake line brackets Cut the old cable end off of the parking brake cables at the rear of the cable (where it goes into the brake drum). Save the cables Cut both old stock parking brake cable outer sheaths at the rear mounting location and remove the rubber bushings. Slide the rubber bushing over the new brake lines. These will be used to secure the new parking brake cables in the stock rear cable mounting brackets located near the leaf spring front mounting bolt location. Bend the stock mounting brackets to allow the new parking brake cables to fit in the hole, and secure with the rubber bushing. Bend the tabs back to secure the new cable in the bracket. On the passenger side, connect the new parking brake cable to the old parking brake cable using the Dorman connector, route the cable through the stock hook, and stock parking brake retainer. On the drivers side, pull the cable tight over to the stock parking brake retainer. Mark the drivers side cable end and the passenger side cable at a point where they meet. You will cut them later. Find a good spot to mount the brake line brackets, mark, and drill pilot holes. Make sure the new cables are as tight as you can pull them by hand when you mark the holes. Attach brake line brackets with self tapping or 1/4 inch bolts/nuts On the passenger side, insert the new parking brake cable end into the brake line bracket, it should snap in and lock. Use the Umpro connector to snug the parking brake cable to the floor pan with self tapping screw Apply superglue to the cables in the area where you will cut them. Let it dry Put the cables in a vise and use the cutoff wheel to cut the cables. Install the heat shrink on the cables now if you want to use it. Insert the cables in the cable splices and crimp them (see pictures) Heat shrink the connection Insert the drivers side new parking brake cable end into the brake line bracket, it should snap in and lock. Use the Umpro connector to snug the parking brake cable to the floor pan with self tapping screw Install the drivers side cable into the stock front parking brake retainer, keep the nut off. Hook the drivers side and passenger side cables together with the Dorman connector, slide over the stock hook, and install the front parking brake cable retainer over the end and install the nut hand tight Now you can snug the nut up and try the parking brake. Mine worked great. I need to add some of the back of the car and how the cables are routed under the rear... I will do that More pictures available if needed

Finally got my emergency brake installed. Used the stock footbrake setup with my 2004 Cobra rear disc brakes. Used 2004 emergency brake cables and a variety of pieces and parts from the original cables to make it work. Came out pretty good. I will post the details on the technical forum under "Rear disc brake parking brake project"