Vicfreg

Working in my trunk now, finishing up rear ground bus wiring.

Was asked to post a picture of my original fuse box, so here it is

Nice. Moving fast!

Mike. I am using Tri-Y headers with glasspacks and a 2-1/2 exhaust on the ‘68. Dumps under the rear axle. Not recommended unless you like it LOUD.

Too late for me, my tank is installed. But, I am going to run a return line.

This is what the cam sounds like. Not great quality video, so don't play in full screen Mustang - Sept 08 001.AVI

This is the only picture I have handy. I will look in my "filing system".....

Mike, on my 1968, I have a very similar set up. I used the B-303 cam with the Ford 1.6 roller rockers and lifters. I believe I used Comp Cams double roller chain and sprocket kit. I was also using a mechanical fuel pump, and needed to use the eccentric on the cam gear, so that influenced my decision. I have GT40 cast iron heads. The car runs great. I will look and verify this for you....

On my 1970 Convertible, I also added sub-frame connectors. This may be an alternate solution if you don't want to go all the way with the other modifications discussed earlier in this thread. No doors in these photo's ...the car is stiff.

FVike. Yes, the AAW wiring kit comes with relays for the horn, headlights, fog lights, and in my case, the ignition switch, as my car is a 1970.

Hey Mike, I’m traveling on business, So going from memory here.. But I believe you’re correct the 3F wire (pink) should be the ignition wire that’s key on hot that goes to your coil and the ignition box. The number 121 wire I believe is the tachometer wire. Your fuel injection system may also need both of these wires. I’m sure I had to use the 121 wire to the tach signal for my fuel injection. There should be a block diagram in my spreadsheet of the Pertronix wire hook ups Look at the spreadsheet tabs I believe one of them says block diagrams You can call me tomorrow evening East Coast time if you want to chat about it that would be fine you can PM me for my number

Hi Mike, thanks for the tip with the rear window wire routing. I was hoping that would be the case. As far as the Pertrinix wiring goes, I believe I sent you a block diagram that shows which AAW feed I used for the key on hot small red wire. I believe I used the red “ignition” wire from the AAW harness. This is because you need to have power to that feed into the coil and Pertronix box when you’re cranking the car not just in the on position.

Wow, that seems pretty complicated. Where I live in North Carolina, once a car gets to be 30 years old, there is no more inspection of any kind required. I drive my 1968 coupe around with original 1968 license plates on it. The reality is that the upgrades that most of us are doing are making the cars safer. When I first got my car, it has bias ply tires, manual drum brakes, and manual steering. Now running modern "V" rated tires, slotted/drilled 4 wheel disc brakes, etc.

Assume you ran it over the wheel wells into the trunk? I don't have my rear window regulators installed yet, was wondering if you had yours in, and if there was any interference with the wiring harness running through there....

Aren't those called Goannas?

Shep, thanks for the tips. Not a good outlook if I have to rebuild the parts on a new system. I will pull apart my FCC and check the inside. Also will have some spare parts on hand. Is there an easy way to open the FCC/take it apart....?

I am using a Maier Racing front bar. Not hooked up yet. I need to get the engine in the car and get some weight on the front suspension. I am trying to get the car done to bring to Carlisle in June. Not sure I am going to make it......

Underdash wiring is finally done!. Will put steering column, brake pedal and accelerator pedal in next. I am going to leave dash out when the car goes to paint. Moving to under the car for my transmission speed sensor and backup light switch wiring, then to the trunk, then engine goes in!

Here's what's hanging on my wall. Unused Right Front tire from Danica Patrick's car from the Memorial Day Race in Charlotte a few years ago.

Oh, I am running a 3393 stroker with A/C, power steering, and a C-6

Hey Jason. Those gauges are cool! I have never seen them before. I used 450# spring rate on the front, so very close to yours. My Vikings have adjustable damping and rebound and I can also adjust the height of the suspension. I have 620# Grab A Track springs on my 1968 Coupe. Stiff ride, but handles good. My Mom still lives over in Ridgefield Park other family in Waldwick and Vernon.

Yes, great choice. Very good carb's

I think since the FCC is designed to operate with no return line, the pump speed has to be varied to match the load of the engine, as opposed to the constant speed/constant flow set up with an in-tank pump, or a frame mounted pump with a return line. So, I guess the best solution was the PWM. The old school way would be to put a rheostat (big variable resistor) in line with the pump to control the speed. This is very inefficient, and takes up a lot of space... This same approach is used to control your blower motor speed on your Mustang. Instead of a variable resistor, there are three pre-set resistance values for the three fan speeds. All PWM does is vary the duty cycle of the motor. If you directly wire the motor, it gets full voltage and current 100% of the time, so it has 100% duty cycle. If you manually cycled the pump on for one second, and off for one second, you would have a 50% duty cycle. With PWM, you can control the motor speed by varying the duty cycle down to the milli-second level. This is done by generating a square wave form and varying the distance between the peaks to change the duty cycle. The advantage of PWM is that it is very efficient, and does not dissipate much energy. I have a PWM fan controller for this reason. It does soft start, and varies the speed of my 2 - 12" fans that is proportional to the temperature input/demand. It uses no relays. Shep makes a good point on the motor life. I am not sure about that. I believe the duty cycle is what impacts the motor life, but not certain...... I wonder what size the FiTech FCC fuel pump is... I looked at some in tank pumps... The real interesting thing is what fuel is really required. From the Holley technical page: FUEL REQUIREMENTS Typically, at wide open throttle, full power, an engine requires 0.5 lbs. of fuel per horsepower every hour. A gallon of gasoline weighs approximately 6 lbs. Therefore an engine rated at 350 horsepower will require about 175 pounds (29 gallons) of fuel every hour. (350HP x .5 lbs = 175 lbs of fuel ) But, even looking at a big block Chevy mechanical fuel pump, it is sized around 170GPH. I did find some curves from AEM that show the relationship between flow, pressure, and current (flow and current are proportional, and inversely proportional to flow) for their high flow pump. I think the relationship between the three would still be accurate for a pump with lower flow, but I could not find any better curves on line. The one thing it does show is how much current these pumps really can draw. The FiTech limit is 7 amps Anyway, some fun research for a Saturday morning for me. Headed down to the shop to finish my under dash wiring....

I may be wrong, but It was my understanding that the way that the system controls the fuel pump is always through PWM Technology. So for external fuel pumps the setting would always be at the highest value. One of the issues I’ve read about frequently is that for the fuel command center there have been problems with overheating. FiTech said that their default PWM setting was always on high, designed to support external fuel pumps. So now they are changing their default setting to a lower value to support the FCC to slow the pump down and reduce the amount of heat that’s generated . I haven’t checked to see what mine is but they have a recommended PWM value for the fuel command center, and a different one for external fuel pumps. I mentioned that to Mike in an earlier response and that’s what started this chat about the PWM settings. I’ll go back and read up on this to see if I’m correct or not.

Hey Jason. Good to see another Convertible here! Your suspension description is very cool. Here is a picture of mine.... Global West, 2004 Cobra Brakes, Open Tracker, Adjustable strut rods, and Viking shocks.... Also have done the Borgeson upgrade. Look forward to seeing more pictures of your progress. My build is on this forum under 1970 Convertible ....lots of pics there. Also originally from Bergen County up there...