Vicfreg

I have 2 1970 front fenders. I am in North Carolina, near Charlotte. I will sell one if you are interested.

Wow, lot of work to in-do the yellow. It would have looked good. How did you route your transmission cooling lines? Are you using a separate trans cooler? I am going to use a separate trans cooler as my guess is that the stroker will run hot, and I don't want an in-radiator transmission cooler. I love the other work you did. I really like that driveshaft safety loop, looks like it bolts to the sub-frame connectors...?

Another vintage ad hanging in the garage, must have been considered "racy" back in the day.

Was asked to post some info on my power cable sizes from another forum member. Battery Cables - #1 AWG Cable from battery positive to main disconnect - #1 AWG Cable from main disconnect to trunk mounted solenoid - #1AWG Cable from trunk mounted solenoid to starter - #1AWG Cable from trunk power distribution block to power amp - #6AWG Cable from trunk power distribution block to firewall distribution block - #4 AWG Cable from firewall block to alternator - #6 AWG Cable from firewall block to AAW main power feed/fuse block - #8 AWG EFI and A/C power feeds from firewall block - #10 AWG Cable from firewall block to radiator support block - #4 AWG Electric fan and trans cooler cables from radiator support block - #10 AWG Fuses and fusible links shown on diagram below Cable end crimper shown below

You should be ok. I have 4 wheel disc manual brakes in my '68.

Sounds like a bad intake valve. Hope not. I would do a compression test.

Jerrad, if you have plumbed up your V6 master cylinder already, any pictures/advice would be appreciated...

Got my booster and master cylinder in today so I can do some measurements for my brake lines. I went with the 2000 vintage Mustang master cylinder, as it is very light, and also was designed to work with 4 wheel disc brakes. It is a 1" bore and has the same internal dimensions as the standard master cylinder with respect to the required rod depth. The booster is an 8" dual diaphragm unit from Master Power Brakes. It is the smaller diameter version that was originally designed for manual transmission cars to avoid interference with the Z-Bar linkage. Installing this requires some minor modifications to the firewall mounting area, but for me, it took maybe 45 minutes to do that. I used a disc brake proportioning valve from Master Power Brakes. It has a bracket that mounts it under the master cylinder. The modern master cylinder uses ISO fittings, so I got some ISO-Metric adaptors from Mustang Steve. I will also plumb in a brake light switch and not use the pedal mounted one. More details on this posted on my project thread..... Thanks to everyone for their advice...

I used an 8" dual diaphragm booster. These were originally supplied for the manual transmission cars, as the larger, 9" booster did not clear the Z-Bar linkage. It should give you a little more braking power. The trade off is that it puts the master cylinder closer to the firewall. So, if you have a Wilwood style master cylinder, and use the dual diaphragm booster, the master cylinder will hit the shock tower and not fit. I used Master Power Brakes, as they a local supplier to the racing industry here in NC. I am sure you can find another one somewhere, but I am happy with the construction and quality. You have to make some minor modifications to where the booster mounts to the firewall, which requires drilling out a small hole at the 6 0-clock position to 5/16", and slightly enlarging (making it kind of oval) the round hole where the brake rod through the firewall. For me, this was pretty easy to do, as my engine is out. Here is the link to their site and the booster. You can call them and just buy the booster instead of the kit, as it is cheaper. BM15213-1 - Power Brake Conversion Kit - 8" Dual Diaphragm Booster (Manual Transmission Only) https://www.mpbrakes.com/booster-master-conversion-kit/ford-mustang-1970-boostermaster.asp

Yeah, I have some 3M DiNoc and other samples. The dash pieces are a real bear to cover with the vinyl and get it right.

I tried them before I cleaned and painted them, and they were great. I will give it a try again to make sure they are still working fine and let you know.

Good job sorting that out.

Yes the pedal will work as long as you have a power brake car. I used a double diaphragm booster from Master Power Brakes.

Oh, right. Not sure about the orientation of the unit you show in your picture. It has to fit behind the glove compartment area on the passenger side. You might want to contact Vintage Air to see if they can sell you just the controls and the blower/heater box without the A/C. It gets rid of all the stuff in the engine compartment.

Got my booster and master cylinder in today so I can do some measurements for my brake lines. I went with the 2000 vintage Mustang master cylinder, as it is very light, and also was designed to work with 4 wheel disc brakes. It is a 1" bore and has the same internal dimensions as the standard master cylinder with respect to the required rod depth. I used a disc brake proportioning valve from Master Power Brakes. It has a bracket that mounts it under the master cylinder. The modern master cylinder uses ISO fittings, so I got some ISO-Metric adaptors from Mustang Steve. I will also plumb in a brake light switch and not use the pedal mounted one.

Oh wow, what a mess. I hate to hear that. I did call Borgeson about the fittings that go into their steering box. I assumed they were the standard o-ring fittings, and they apparently are not. I wanted to go from their box to AN 6 fittings. So, they sold me a couple of non-O ring adaptors. So, maybe that is something you could check.

Cool. I am going to try and Hydro Dip mine to look like brushed aluminum, and do the console and door panel trim as well....

How did you cover the dash with the Carbon Fiber stuff....?

Radiator Brackets Sold

Ok. At work now I’ll follow up with you little bit later

I have another set that need to be restored. I will go over to my storage bldg and find them, and take some pics

My '68 is carbureted, Holley 570 Street Avenger..

Shep, good question... I am looking at the same thing right now. I am about to install my booster and pedal. I usually rely on the Ford Factory Shop manual for these type of things. There is typically adjustment information in there that helps. To further complicate matters, there are 2 different rods. Your booster and rod pictured are for a 1969. The 1970 rod is actually straight, without that slight downturn. I will be putting mine in over the next week, and will post some pics on my restoration thread. The 1970 power brake pedal is also about 1/8" off from the 1969 for the distance between the clutch pedal support bracket pedal pivot point, and the brake rod attachment point. It is one of those Ford oddities between the '69 and '70 steering column and brake pedal arrangements that make the parts swapping very difficult..... By the way, nice job by that Aussie snowboarder to finish in 3rd place in the half-pipe. He is quite a large guy, and really put down a nice performance...

Depends on the engine you are using. Make sure you get the correct "balance" weight flex plate. Earlier model engines are 28oz, later models are 50oz.

I just installed the Vintage Air Gen IV system that is designed for our Mustangs. I would advise going that route, as to customize the Gen II generic system would be way too much work. You can check my restoration thread "1970 Mustang Convertible" and see some of the pictures I have posted. Also interested in following your restoration, as there are not that many Convertibles, so looking forward to that! Any other questions, PM me. Vic