Vicfreg

No problem To be clear, when I say “run” I mean “on”. My ignition switch has 5 positions: - ACC - Lock - Off - On - Start I am not suggesting hooking the choke to a wire that is hot in the “start” position I am suggesting one that is hot in key “on” position

Hey Mike....how is the engine coming....still at the engine shop?

There are a lot of boosters out there. I have 2 original Bendix boosters. Not sure how much to ship to your side of the world, but you can rebuild them. I don't need them. IM me if you are interested.

To the starter to bellhousing bolt. I took the picture of where I install it, but in this picture, the ground wire is not installed. The pic shows a C-4 bellhousing.

I depends what year and type of C-4. They can use either 157 tooth or 164 tooth flexplates. There are "pan fill" C4s and "case fill" C-4s. The name has to do with where the dipstick enters the transmission. The 157 tooth flex plate usually have a 10-1/2" bolt pattern for the torque converter, and the 164 tooth have a 11-7/16" bolt pattern. So, unless you want to buy a new converter, I would not buy a new flex plate yet.... Also, if you have an early model engine, you need to get a 28 oz imbalance flex plate. Later engines used a 50 oz flex plate. Can you post a picture of your transmission?

The green wire with the red stripe at the regulator plug is the "904" wire. Show in these 2 diagrams. The other diagram shows the physical layout of where the connector is. Another option is to grab the 12v at the #26 connector

Here are the drawings that show the backfire solenoid wiring, as this might be a little harder to find than the voltage regulator wire. Midlife suggested that his is just for 1970's so this might benefit the 1970 owners, or others, who may have this connector in their wiring harness.

Right, when I refer to “ key on hot”, I mean hot when the ignition switch is in the run position, or on position, not in the “ACC” position The anti-backfire solenoid is a great suggestion for a place to tap that electric choke from In my case, on one of my cars, I took the under dash energized in the “run” position wires, and installed a small, 4 fuse, power block, with modern fuses. I used this to feed my electric choke, audio, and gauges. I did this because I did not want to hook my electric choke to any existing “glass” fuse feeds, that could cause failure of other important items (lights, etc) if the electric choke drew too mich current for the existing circuit All of these cars are fifty years old, with 50-year-old wiring, and 50-year-old fuse blocks and technology Good luck, keep us posted on your prigress!

If I did not have all of these digital boxes, I would have done it differently, but if you don't have a good ground, you will find out the hard way. Let me know when you get started in earnest on the AAW harness. I have lots of lessons learned. If you know how to use Excel, I can send you my spreadsheet, and then wak you through my approach. But, I mapped every wire on the harness.

What kind of 5/16" tubing did you use?

Really nice work and attention to detail, well done!

I bled the brakes last week and everything seems to be fine. I have not tested the unit under vacuum, as my engine is not installed. But, there are literally millions of these dual diaphragm boosters out there. If you are running a manual transmission, with a traditional "Z" bar linkage, you need to use this set up. The single diaphragm booster is larger in diameter (but not as deep) and will interfere with your clutch linkage. If you are running an automatic, or a cable/hydraulic clutch, you can use the larger single booster. Now, that begs the question as to why did I use this one, as I am running an automatic. The dual diaphragm booster has a little more stopping power, and with my low vacuum situation due to my cam, I need that. I got mine from Master Power Brakes, but you can get them anywhere. They are a local company for me, so I went right to the manufacturing facility. I really liked their bracket and proportioning valve assembly, as it mounts underneath, and not on the drivers side inner fender. Hope that answers the questions. IM me or post if you have any more. good luck...!

Will pull the wiring diagrams later today and snap a picture of the area I am talking about.

Agree with Bob and Sue. I do a resistance check on all my grounds with my Fluke and a continuity check on all my terminations. Especially with these new digital systems, good grounds are vital.

My hose, which is for a 1970 Mustang with 24" radiator. This is the drivers side, lower hose. Gates 20609.

Gaskacinch as well. I love that word.... I need to put that in the urban dictionary....

I am running a 3G alternator. There is one wire, and in my car, it goes to my engine bay power distribution block. The alternator is bolted to the engine, and the engine is grounded to the frame. So, no other grounds needed. Do your 3G alternator instructions indicate there should be a dedicated ground?

Same. Would like to see what kind of bulkhead connectors you use. My fenderwells are full of wiring and plumbing now....not much more room...

I have done both. I built my own 9" for my 1970 project. I purchased a fully completed center section, and then assembled the rear myself. Details are on my build thread. For my '68 coupe, I went with the Ford Explorer 8.8 swap. Mine had 3.73 factory gears and disc brakes. Some grinding and welding on new spring perches was required. The big difference is cost. I have maybe $500 in my Ford Explorer rear, including new rotors and pads. It is a stock rear. I have around $2000 invested in my 9" rear for my 1970, doing the work myself. But...my 1970 has big bearing tubes, 31 spine axles, nodular 9" posi center section with Daytona pinion, and 2004 Cobra brakes with drilled/slotted rotors.

I just went through this on my '70, you can check my build thread, but here is what the final result looks like:

Shep, what kind of engine is it....? Windsor, Cleveland...? Before you go to all the trouble to pull the intake off, I would check the rocker studs, as Barnett has suggested. Also, make sure none of the rocker arms are loose. Then, with the valve covers still off, rotate the engine by hand to see if there is anything that seems odd with the movement of the rocker arms and pushrods. (pull the plugs out, makes it easier). Do a few rotations by hand cranking it. During the rotation, when each cylinder's rocker arms are not moving (valves closed, on base circle of cam), stop the rotation and try to spin/rotate the pushrod between your fingers. If the pushrod spins freely, then you are not at "zero lash", and the rocker arm nut needs to be tightened. If you get to a pushrod where you can't get the zero lash right, you could have a lifter issue, or your pushrod may not be long enough.

I would also not use the fake regulator. I typically run a ground wire (#4) from the starter to block bolt to the frame. I am not a fan of firewall grounds, the metal is thin, and typically people use sheet metal screws or self tapping screws that can come loose. The starter is where all the current flows, it is by far your biggest amperage draw. The negative battery terminal to engine block is also fine. That should work out well. The in line (MIDI) fuse is essential, so good job there. I am running a 140 amp alternator with a trunk mounted battery, so mine is a bit more complicated. You can look at my build thread to see the details. Good luck!

Like SM69Mach, I went with 245/45-17 in the Front. This keeps your tire outside diameter around 25-1/2" (25.7). I have Global West (+) 3 UCAs to avoid the interference problem when you want to dial in some Caster.

I hate when Grandpa gets snagged years later...... Maybe it was Grandma chasing him with something down the driveway.... Maybe he was leaving the Grateful Dead concert and backed into a police car...........Makes for a great story....and it is an original Ford Panel. I found one of those on my car... That's one of the great things about these old cars, there is always a twist somewhere.. Looks like Royal Maroon....nice color

There is a "key on hot" wire that is used for accessories. That is what I used on my other Mustangs. I will take a look at the wiring diagrams and get back to you. An example of this would be the controls for the A/C, rear defroster, and other power options.