Vicfreg

There are several posts on this topic. The single diaphragm booster is not as deep, but is much larger in diameter. I used a double diaphragm booster and a Ford Explorer/Ford Ranger master cylinder. One of my toughest parts of my whole project was to find a combination master cylinder, prop valve, etc that fit and had enough clearance from my headers. I think I put a separate post on this on the technical forum. If not, let me look and I will find the pics. The Wilwood master cylinder is long.

Now I remember how I attached the VHX box to the vintage air unit. I used a self tapping screw up top, and that red 3M double sided tape in a few places to secure it to the air box.

Wow...too funny...... This is shifting...….watch the whole thing, not long...vintage Ford Racing video....

I chose the Windsor based 393 stroker option, it will have plenty of power for me.

There is a poor snowflake driving that car, and his mother made him what he is.... so, the spot where his bumper sticker is located is where you aim, downshift the F-250, floor it, and run into the back of the car while yelling...."Redneck Mother..." Then you offer to put your "Goat Ropers Need Love Too**" bumper sticker over that one, where the large dent is.... (**This is a not so subtle Jerry Jeff Walker/Ray Wylie Hubbard/ David Allen Coe reference...)

You might want to put the export brace on to help alignment when you reinstall the upper cowl. Measure to the shock tower bolts to see how square (or out of square) the front of the car is. Nice work.

Sorry, wrong pic

They are for sure different lengths. But, what you describe is interesting. You might have inserted the axles into the wrong side. No big deal, just pull them out and swap them. Pull them out carefully, don't damage the oil seal. One axle should be like 30-7/16" long and the other should be like 26-7/8" long. The axle should be right up against the backing plate. My pics are "big tube" axle, but you get the idea.

Hey Nick..... not trying to hijack your thread!! Thought the Vintage Air Pics would help. Vic

"Stanger".... beautiful work... I have not run my A/C lines yet, that gave me an idea. What kind of bulkhead fittings did you use for the freon connections going through the sheetmetal? My stuff is on the drivers side..

Oh, take some time to understand the Trinary Safety Switch Wiring. That is really tricky, and dependent on what kind of fan controls you have. I have a PWM fan controller with "AC On" and "Over ride" inputs. Here is my TSS wiring diagram:

"Vic, for the Vintage Air, which wire did you use from the harness for the 12V ignition source? Assume one of the AC wires would work from the harness as I have plenty available (new painless harness). " I used the AAW fuse block feed intended for the original A/C. It is a "Key on Hot" feed, for AAW, it is wire # 50. Main power feed to Vintage Air System comes from my power distribution block at the front of the car. I ran 2 separate grounds from the Vintage Air system direct to my battery negative (in the trunk). I called Vintage Air about this, and they said their drawing shows this so you don't have any motor noise affecting their computer. If you run a local chassis ground, you may have some issues. My block Vintage Air diagram block diagram is attached. Terminal numbers are ones I made up by marking up their drawing, and the little boxes on the diagram are AAW connectors I made to facilitate a plug and play install when I go the unit in the car Hope that helps.

Correct, I am losing the glove box

I am pretty sure there is also a 2 piece eccentric, don't use that one.

Picture of double roller with eccentric. I used an edelbrock chain kit as I think it was not as wide.

I did a 5.0 on my '68 and to keep it simple, I used the old style timing cover and mechanical fuel pump. Used 1985-1/2 distributor with the Ford "blue plug" Duraspark unit. Have a B303 cam with an Edelbrock performer rpm intake and Holley street avenger, GT40 cast iron heads. Runs awesome, used a Ford Explorer 3.73 posi and a T-5Z. I ditched the original headers, they didn't fit. Used Patriot Tri-Ys.

Mike, if you use a mini-starter, I typically run the battery ground to the starter mounting bolt. Then run a separate large wire from the other starter bolt to the frame. Those little ground straps are useless. I also use DEI cable heat barrier on the wires to avoid the issue that Phil is describing.

Here are some of mine before the engine was in, shows the block off plate that comes with the Vintage Air Unit. I also have block and wiring diagrams I created for the install if you need them.

Danno, do you want to sell the extra top parts? I need some and would be willing to buy whatever you have

Yeah, thanks. Took a whole winter to do that, and a couple months of prep with wiring diagrams and a spreadsheet. I have lots of pictures and lessons learned, so any questions, please ask.

Here is my VHX box installed. I am using AAW wiring harness. The box is mounted to my Vintage Air system.

Here is the tabulation of where my VHX dash module wires go to. I have a 1970 convertible. I arbitrarily numbered each connection on the VHX box, even the sensor and ethernet plugs. if you see an "x" I did not use that function for my car. If you see a "conn", that means that I made a connector to route the wire to/from the VHX box and the end point. If you see "harness", that means the wiring was supplied by VHX. Examples of this are the oil and water temperature sensors, and the speed sensor for the transmission. I hope this helps VHX Input Module Wiring.pdf

The VHX manual has a very detailed explanation of what each connection if for, and if it is used. I have every one tabulated, if you want, I can post that.

69-70 cougar is the same

I am going to Hydro-Dip mine. Otherwise, you can the 3M Di-Noc in brushed aluminum, it is a tedious job to re-do it though.