Vicfreg

Maxum, I have a couple of these originals, and they are black plastic, unpainted. You can soak them in Evapo-rust as well, to remove any road dirt/grime, etc. I used the SEM plastic paint process to re-coat them, and they came out fine. Just a caution....Your car in this picture looks good, everything is nice and aligned. You would need to take the grill, stone shield, moldings, front valence, inner fender splash shield, and front fenders off to get at these to paint them. So, if you are taking your car apart, have fun. If not, I personally would not go through all that trouble to paint them. Not sure if you can mask off and paint them with everything installed. If you take them off, keep the screws. They are kind of unique and install at a weird angle. Good luck! Vic

Ok, correction required. The doors had body work and were primed off of the car. After the alignment of all the body panels when the car was in primer, we left the doors on the car, and they were final coat painted mounted on the car. The first picture shows the final door to fender gaps when the car was in final prep prior to being dis-assembled and put int the booth.

Some items to pass along from my multi-month experience with my body shop, and my own initial alignment: Rebuilt the door hinges. Mustang Steve or equivalent kit that has new bushings and zerk fittings. You will never win the alignment battle with old hinges. My advice is to NOT buy reproduction hinges. I will let others comment on that. Make sure your door latch post and mounting screws are in good shape and don't move around Make sure your door locks (in the door) are in good shape, and the mounting screws are not ovaled or loose Agree with Ed and keep your fenders either hanging, or standing vertically, not laying flat on the ground. Inspect your hood hinges and make sure they are not worn out or move around too much Install the doors first, get them aligned best you can Install the cowl, hood and fenders. The captive nut is a pain in the neck. I had one missing. We got the fenders aligned, and then tack welded a nut in the captive nut hole to fix that issue. Get some help and get the fenders aligned to get a good door gap on each side. Then work the hood to match the fenders. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Have a beer. Repeat.... Once you get the alignment you want, tighten down all the bolts. Next step is recommended, but optional if you are doing something concours, etc Get some very small flat head trim nails about 3/4" inch long. Next to each fender bolt on top, drill a tiny hole that will just fit (interference fit) the finish nail. These will serve as "alignment pins" when you re-install the fenders and hood. Do this also with the hood hinge to hood bolts. I had all of my body panels and doors painted off of the car. These were reinstalled by the body shop using the alignment pins. The doors were installed first and aligned without any pins, based on the rearward facing gap between the doors and the rear fenders, and the lower gap between the doors and the rockers. You may have to use shims on your door hinges. When I took my car apart, I found some factory installed shims under my hinges on the body mount side. Also, ,my doors did not have any window glass or window actuators installed, so the body shop used small sandbags/weights when aligning the doors in that condition. Otherwise, your doors will be sag when you load them up with the glass and window actuators. In the end it came out good, but his is a lot of work. Totally agree with doing as much as possible with the car in primer. Don't worry about scratching the primer, if your body shop knows what they are doing, they will sand most of that off anyway. I will post some pics shortly. Vic

I have the Global West (+) 3 UCAs on my '70 Convertible. It let me put a bunch of Caster into my alignment (more than 5 degrees). I have the MNR 733s. I will post some pictures shortly. Highly advise doing the Shelby drop while you are at it, and also doing the shock tower "dogbone" reinforcements while you are in there. Will post some pics shortly. Vic

I’m nearly ready to install my console, it has the Shelby gauge pod installed on it. I have an automatic transmission, and I would like to install the console fully assembled. It’s a pretty tight fit trying to get the console over the automatic shifter. Any lessons learned or suggestions would be helpful!! Vic

Wired up and did an electrical check out of my keyless entry system, which uses remote control keyfobs to lock/unlock doors, and open the trunk. This got a little complicated, as the trunk release function uses a “negative trigger” signal to actuate the trunk release. I will post something in the technical forum on how to do this once I get it all permanently installed.

Neat fix! For sure would not leave it that way

Not original, it is a NPD hood made with original Ford tooling.

Oh. Good news!

Rich Ackermann had a good suggestion, I also use one of these air filters, which works well with the shaker airflow coming from the top My base was a pretty tight fit for air filters. I tried several air filters and this one works.

Oh, Guess the pic with the hacked up base was from previous owner, and new one fits?

Wow! The color combo is cool. Looks like a straight -8 car. Really neat. Well done.

Nice work! Also great color. Some black highlights on that Gulfstream Aqua would look great..... The old cars have cool body lines that you can add striping and contrasting color to. Attached a picture of a 1929 Auburn 8-90 Convertible Sedan that belongs to my family. The green highlight follows the original body lines, and the wire wheels are painted to match the contrasting color. Pretty cool. Keep us posted on the progress....

Honestly, lot's of patience required to get the hood molding, headlight trim, stone shield and lower molding all lined up. Also lot's of painters tape required to protect the paint.! I have no idea how they possibly did this at the factory, you need 3 hands to do it .....

Hi Ersin. This one is a reproduction. I did not use the metal backing strip, as it had a slightly different geometry than the molding, and prevented me from aligning it correctly So, I installed it directly to the hood, and it fit much better. It actually worked out ok. I have a new 1969 molding piece from NPD that obviously did not fit. But, I am happy with the way the '70 reproduction fit in the end. Vic

Well, I found them. These are the photos that Rich Ackermann sent me. The black horse is a concourse winning cover jet. The red car is the one that he has posted on the forum for the past few years Mind, much more like the red Mustang, than the black one, being much higher. But like I said, it does not bind on the hood I can still move it with with my hand

Hey Mark. Happy new year! My shaker scoop was high, I thought. But I’m still able to move it around, so it’s not binding on the hood. Rich Ackermann sent me some pictures of a concourse Mustang he had with a shaker, and then a few other pictures, that showed there’s a pretty wide variation on how high they sit. I’ll see if I can find them and post them here. In the end, I decided to leave it like it is. I think the only 429s that had a shaker as far as I know, were the Torino’s. They have a different shape, shaker hood, it’s pointed. The Boss 429 had a really large hood scoop. I’m not sure if they had Ray under that or not. Let me see if I can find those pictures and I’ll post them for you. Let me know what you decide to do, I’m interested in seeing how it works out. vic

Working on my keyless entry system, and my power window controls My keyless entry module is going to be mounted behind the clock dash. It also has a negative aux output, so I have a reversing relay that’s going to be mounted in the same area, that’s going to interface with my electric power trunk release. The power window switch module is located in the front of my console box, and the wiring will be going underneath the console into the dash, I’m working on arranging that. All of this needs to be done before I can close the dash up and put the dash pad on

Thanks, the entire car was media, blasted, primed, and then the undercarriage and engine compartment were painted in a satin black epoxy. I can take partial credit for the fuel lines, but Mike on the Forum (Latoracing) Did the return fuel line bending for me, when he was doing other work on the car for me, he’s a wizard with anything to do with metal, amazing!

Also installed a buck boost controller, which is essentially a constant voltage DC step down transformer, that provides the proper 5.2 V to the USB plugs that I installed into my cigarette lighter location on my dash.

I powered up my instrument panel by hooking the Cat5 ethernet cable to the back of the VHX gauge package I also installed the VHS LED dimmer, it works really nicely.. My dash panels are painted body color, and the gauge package is a similar color with the blue backlighting, I think it’s gonna look cool

Thanks, I installed the dash into the car, and it seems to be a lot easier, I’ll just have to fuss with the air-conditioning duct work a little bit, but it should work

Same!

Got my dash pad installed. Debating whether to take it off to install the instrument cluster and clock panel. I really don't want to do that because I have my A/C ducts hooked up, and there is no easy way to reinstall them with the dash panels in. Any suggestions on the sequence to install the instrument panel and clock panel would be appreciated. I am thinking about dropping the steering column to get in the instrument panel.... Happy Holidays!!