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Vicfreg

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Everything posted by Vicfreg

  1. I have never used this water method. Sounds pretty cool. I typically use the door sill pressure as a guide, as it is tied to the load rating of the original equipment tires, especially in my truck when I am towing something. I will have to check into the water method with my local tire guru, we can compare notes.....
  2. MIke, that makes sense. Mine is on the other side of the shock tower, up front. Unilec, it is like an MSD box, it is designed to be under the hood, but inside would be obviously better......
  3. If the power strip is supplying power to the cooling fan relay coils, then I would think twice about it without putting a diode or R/C network across the coils. Especially if the relays will be cycling on and off. They create an inductive kickback that can cause voltage spikes....your digital ignition box may not like that. Some additional info here, discusses using diodes across the coil. https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html
  4. No. I use Stage 8 Locking Bolts with a good set of gaskets. https://www.stage8.com/ford-performance-locking-fasteners/ford-locking-header-bolt-kits/
  5. I did the Edelbrock Performer RPM top end package, which consists of heads, intake and cam on my 393 stroker. I have 1.6 roller rockers. Here is what I used: Intake Manifold Edlebrock Performer RPM 7181 Heads Edelbrock Performer RPM 60229 1.90 Intake Valves Head Bolts ARP ½” 180,000 psi Cam Edelbrock Performer RPM 7182 Duration @ 0.050 Intake 224 degrees Exhaust 234 degrees Timing Chain Edelbrock Performer Double Roller Chain 7820 Series Iron Cam Sprocket Billet Steel Crank Sprocket Use original cam thrust plate Double Eccentric Set up for Mechanical Fuel Pump
  6. Make sure you orient the fan blades in the correct direction. My Maradyne fans have reversible blades to make them a "puller" or "pusher. I really like mine.
  7. Nice picture! Ankle replacement?!?! Wow....best of luck with that, hope you have a speedy and complete recovery.
  8. Welcome! Look forward to seeing the progress on your project!
  9. Kind of. I ran a dedicated large gauge wire power feed and ground feed from my trunk mounted battery to under the dash. I installed a power terminal strip and a ground terminal strip that are reserved for electronics only (no inductive/resistive power feeds/grounds). This is where I powered my "computers" from, which included the DHP box, my Vintage Air Controller, my VHX digital dash computer, and my EFI system. I ran the electronics power/ground feeds on one side of the car, and the other power feeds on the other side of the car. Did the same thing in the trunk for my PWM controller and power amp. Sounds like a little crazy, but I used to design digital control systems, and we always separated power from control & Instrumentation.
  10. Hey Mike. I thought about that exact location. I was somewhat concerned about the heat from the headers impacting the ignition box. I guess it looks closer in the picture than it really is. Guess you could put a small piece of aluminum angle below it as a heat shield. Guess you will get some run time on it and let us know....
  11. I have Viking coil over with GlobalWest (+) 3 UCAs and open tracker LCAs on the front and Bilsteins on the back.
  12. I am running a FiTech fuel command center that has been modified. I pulled out the float/valve assembly, and installed a full flow return line. I did this after talking to the FiTech folks at the Hot Rod Power Tour last year. The new fuel command center has this modification from the factory, and is much sleeker looking. I had already purchased it, so I am going to give it a try. Will get it started at Mikes (latoracing) in about 2 weeks, so will let you know. I may want to get a copy of your tuning settings if you have driven with it for a while.
  13. Right. Dangerous job, comes with extreme risk. Our first responders, police and firefighters do this every day. Big thanks to them.
  14. Vicfreg

    New member

    Welcome HTom. Vic
  15. I have FiTech, but I use a separate PWM Fan Controller, also with the 2-12" Maradyne fans. I live in NASCAR country, and I got these from a shop that provides them to some of the NASCAR race teams. They are about the best fans you can get, flow wise. Much of my post on this was lost in the Photobucket fiasco, but these PWM controllers are used by the Military and commercial truck fleets. Great design. I use an in-line temperature sensor on the lower radiator hose to control the fans. I was able to move my engine temperature +/- 1 degree F during tests on my engine test stand in the summer. North Carolina gets into the high 90's and stays there in the late summer months. I was worried my 393 stroker would run hot. But, so far, so good. IMG_3042.MOV
  16. The flexplates look the same, but can be very different. I have a C-6, and that flexplate is different that the C-4 and FMX flexplate. They look very similar. So, the guys who rebuilt your transmission needed to get the correct flexplate. the question today is if they have the correct flexplate, why is there any vibration at all? They did it, so it is their problem. If the engine and flexplate don't vibrate on their own, then the problem is in the transmission, which they rebuilt. There are many resources on line. Here is an example:
  17. When I installed mine, I cut and capped the wires that I was not going to use for my installation. I did that with a double heat shrink end prep, which involves taking a small heat shrink, installing it 1/2 way down the end of the wire, bending it in half, and then putting a larger heat shrink over it, and then shrinking it. Essentially, it is a heat shrink end cap. Keeps the wires from potential shorting. Pics below. The wires were long enough to run through the fenderwell, through the firewall, under the passenger side dash. I have posted lots of pictures of that. But, to answer your question, I used a high quality automotive wire same gauge as what was on the unit. Under the dash, I used connectors to run the wiring to various places, as the wiring had to go to a couple interfaces like the distributor, key-on power, tach signal, coil, etc. I have shown the block diagram below. "PDRS" is battery power distribution block at the radiator support "Dash Gnd" is underdash ground bus (digital stuff only, have separate power ground) Dist (+) is the plus side of my Pertronix III distributor, Dist (-) same "3F" is the connection to Key-on-hot wire number 3F from the AAW harness "121" is the square wave tachometer signal from the DHP box, runs to my EFI and the AAW wire #121 which is my in dash tachometer The small boxes with "I" are my "Ignition" series connectors, which are all my interfaces between the ignition system and other car systems. Each one of those has a connector pin-out diagram. Attached a picture of that I have an entire spreadsheet of this stuff, if you would find it useful, I will send to you.
  18. The flexplate has unevenly space bolts and can only be installed in one orientation. A vintage Mustang with a FMX has what is called a 28oz imbalance. The flexplate has a weight welded to it. A bad torque converter could cause vibrations. A bad harmonic balancer, also a 28oz imbalance, could also cause vibrations. If the car did not vibrate when you turned it into the shop, then, it is something they did. If it does it in neutral, then that eliminates the downstream drivetrain (driveshaft, universals, rear end, tires/wheels) I would make sure they have a 28oz 164 tooth flexplate that is made for an early Mustang. If you still have the old flexplate post a picture.
  19. Try this again: - High pressure cutoff - >406psi (28 Bar) - High pressure cooling fans on high - >254 psi (17.5 Bar) - Low pressure cooling fans off <175 psi (12.1 Bar) - Low Pressure cutoff <30 psi (2.1 Bar) The difference between a Binary Safety Switch and a Trinary Safety Switch is that the Binary just has the compressor cutoffs, and the Trinary has those plus the cooling fan interfaces.
  20. The binary (or trinary) safety switch used in the modern replacement A/C systems protect the system from pressure limits, protect the compressor and prevent freezing up. It will also turn your cooling fans on/off as a first level of protection prior to shutting off your compressor. On my vintage air system I have a trinary safety switch, it has the following settings: - - High pressure cutoff - >406psi - High pressure cooling fans on high - >254 psi - Low Pressure cutoff <30 psi (2.1 Bar) -
  21. Jet and jmlay are correct. Pic below shows standard and tilt wheel steering column tubes and steering column shafts. The third one down from the top is a standard steering column shaft that is common from 1968 and up. 1968 was the first year for the collapsible steering column. There is an upper and lower shaft that are a near oval shape, the upper (inner) shaft is smaller and inserts into the lower shaft.. The pic has an arrow which shows where they meet. The two small holes originally had a thermoplastic squirted in there to "retain" the position. In reality, the upper part of the shaft is retained by a C-clip that traps the column in the steering column upper housing at the bearing. The lower shaft is mounted to the rag joint. So, just tap the rag joint end of the shaft until it moves out and is mated to your steering box side of the rag joint. When I rebuild my steering columns, I put a scribe mark on the mating point as the shafts can move around if you bump them during dis-assembly/re-assembly. Hope this helps.
  22. Mach 1 Driver...to answer your question. The Hedman 88650, 88656, and 88658 are the Shortie Headers for the 351W for 65-73 Mustangs. The 88650 are painted, the 88656 are silver powder coat, and the 88658 (the ones I have) are the "Elite" series, with 14 gauge tubing, thicker flanges, and HTC Ceramic Coating.
  23. Hey Mike. I put mine on the passenger side inner fenderwell. I have a trunk mounted battery for me that was a good place to put it. I also want it easy access to the adjustment tiles, and I wanted to be able to see the LEDs. I Have some pictures of that as well. When I get to my computer early next week I’ll post them.
  24. Hey Mike. I put mine on the passenger side inner fenderwell. I have a trunk mounted battery for me that was a good place to put it. I also wanted easy access to the adjustment knobs, and also I wanted to be able to see the LEDs. Inside is a good location because it’s nice and cool. Glove box area would be a good choice if you had room. and in reality, once you get the box set up, you probably will never adjust it again I have some pictures I will send you in a couple days
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