Vicfreg

Thanks! I will provide an update when I install my dash. I am actually going to try and move the relay pack, and route it behind the support. It looks really tight to install the VHX gauge package and the duct in that space.

1970 is on the column.

Making some progress on my dash getting it ready to put in the car. Just installed my USB socket retrofit into my cigarette lighter spot. This is going to hook to my boss head unit, USB feeds and allow me to use one USB plug as a charging port, and the other USB plug for Apple CarPlay.

That’s a good’s Fix, I had the same problem on my 1968 coupe, I had to wrap my clutch cable with heat wrap. There’s really no way to avoid it if you have Headers

OK, that’s a nice looking dash

Excellent schematic! Agree I didn’t install a glove box switch, so I ran that wire through my door jamb courtesy light switch circuit so the map light comes on when you open the door if the map light switch is in the “off” position. This works fine as the courtesy light circuit is also switched to ground to turn the courtesy lights on when the car doors are open. The issue is the poor quality of the SPDT switch that came with the repo map light switch. It operates intermittently.

I have a reproduction Daniel carpenter map light assembly for my Deluxe Dash. I wired it up just to make sure it worked properly, and the switch is not what I would consider reliable. You almost have to fiddle with the switch to get it to operate properly, and sometimes, it actually causes a direct short. I have the three wires hooked up correctly. In one position, the door jamb switch operates the light, and the in the other position, the switch turns the lamp on regardless of the door jamb switch position. It just doesn’t work every time. Any experience, lessons, learned, suggestion, would be welcome. I’m probably just going to swap out the switch.

Oh. Ok. Good fix. Good to know I actually thought about doing that but had the clearance. I also didn’t want to use the Torker as it is a single plane intake. Previous experiences years ago with a Torker on a 289 were good but I remember that the 289 was much happier in a higher rpm range than I plan to drive this current car in. Since with this car I’m running an EFI, perhaps these days that’s not that much of a problem as it was with a 4bbl back then. Thanks for the info! Vic

I will let you know, I’m going to try to keep the air duct in front of the support if I can. I’ll do some interference checks, once I get the dash in

Thanks guys! Thought so. I just need to relocate my American Auto Wire relay pack which is currently in that spot, and route the duct through there.

I finally did get back there. Thanks for the hand on starting from the firewall side connections. I have them staged in an area where I can move them around, so I’ll probably put the dash in and see what happens, let the fun begin….

Thanks for the reply. I currently have my dash out, so following the firewall in suggestion is a great one. I will try that. I do agree that the passenger side has more room to route the ducting as the passengier side dash area has a lot more room. I am now more concerned about the drivers side, thinking I could route that over the steering column, but not sure it will fit between the steering column support brace and the gauge package. Any suggestions there? Thanks again for the help Vic

I think it is a good package, and the heater box and blower are on the right side, so no other way to easily do it. There just isn't a whole lot of room under there.

Thanks so much for the info. I was hoping you might have some pictures, if you do, please send them along. How did you route the ductwork over to the passenger side? The outlets on the vintage air box are on the drivers side, and you have to make a U-turn head to the passenger side. I was just wondering how you did that. Any insight to be appreciated Vic

I went to donate and my security software packages are telling me the data entry page is not secure. I can do a PayPal to an email address if needed instead

Mike, thanks for the link. I got some really good info from Rich Ackerman, and he sent me pictures of some concours and other cars with Shakers, and I think mine is ok the way it is.

RPM, no carb spacer. I have a EFI throttle body that is the same height as a Holley 4 barrel. But, that would be a big problem if I did have one as I using a Performer RPM intake, which is higher than stock.

RPM, no carb spacer. I have a EFI throttle body that is the same height as a Holley 4 barrel. But, that would be a big problem if I did have one as I using a Performer RPM intake, which is higher than stock.

I am getting to that point where the metal dash is ready to be installed, and I want to route my Vintage Air ducts while I have access to that space. My vintage air hardware is long ago installed. I have a factory A/C dash and A/C dash pad ready to go. I also have the original plastic pieces for the drivers side and passenger side A/C registers, and the original registers installed in the dash. I do have the Vintage air register extension plastic pieces currently installed on the drivers side and passengers side registers, but they can be removed if needed. I know that this has been done before, so any lessons learned/how-to/pictures would be appreciated! Thanks Vic

Mal, I agree. Volt meters are a much better instrument for this, because you can be charging a degraded battery and your amp meter will still deflect to show it is charging. For me, being able to monitor voltage is the best method of detection that gives you time to take some action if you’re driving. Especially if you’re running Fuel Injection, for instance, with my system, if the voltage to the EFI goes below about 10.5 volts, you are in trouble. Same goes for ignition systems like a modern MSD box. Alternators and modern charging systems are extremely reliable, much more so than batteries. For cars like ours, likely not driven that often, a battery failure is much more likely than an alternator failure. The real weak link in all of the original equipment is the voltage regulator. Pretty sure that Ford did not go from a mechanical to an electronic voltage regulator until 1973 or 1974. This is what keeps your alternator producing that 13.8 or so volts

Oh. Good to know

I meant to say I was just looking at my pictures….

Just look at my pictures, my Wilwood proportioning valve had a spot for the brake pressure switch and that’s where it is mounted

I have a ‘70 convertible automatic with a dual diaphragm stock style booster. The ‘70’s use a straight rod. The booster bolt/stud mounting hardware configuration to the car is also different from ‘69 to ‘70. This can cause other issues under dash. I have an upgraded braking system that uses the stock style booster with a late model Ford Explorer/Ranger master cylinder, and 4 wheel disc setup from late model Mustang Cobra. I never liked the original design, so ditched the pedal actuated switch and used a pressure switch, similar to below diagram. It works great, just make sure it is on the rear brake side of the reservoir.

Got my rear lighting done, everything working as it should. IMG_1660.mov IMG_1659.mov