Vicfreg

Thanks so much for the info. I was hoping you might have some pictures, if you do, please send them along. How did you route the ductwork over to the passenger side? The outlets on the vintage air box are on the drivers side, and you have to make a U-turn head to the passenger side. I was just wondering how you did that. Any insight to be appreciated Vic

I went to donate and my security software packages are telling me the data entry page is not secure. I can do a PayPal to an email address if needed instead

Mike, thanks for the link. I got some really good info from Rich Ackerman, and he sent me pictures of some concours and other cars with Shakers, and I think mine is ok the way it is.

RPM, no carb spacer. I have a EFI throttle body that is the same height as a Holley 4 barrel. But, that would be a big problem if I did have one as I using a Performer RPM intake, which is higher than stock.

RPM, no carb spacer. I have a EFI throttle body that is the same height as a Holley 4 barrel. But, that would be a big problem if I did have one as I using a Performer RPM intake, which is higher than stock.

I am getting to that point where the metal dash is ready to be installed, and I want to route my Vintage Air ducts while I have access to that space. My vintage air hardware is long ago installed. I have a factory A/C dash and A/C dash pad ready to go. I also have the original plastic pieces for the drivers side and passenger side A/C registers, and the original registers installed in the dash. I do have the Vintage air register extension plastic pieces currently installed on the drivers side and passengers side registers, but they can be removed if needed. I know that this has been done before, so any lessons learned/how-to/pictures would be appreciated! Thanks Vic

Mal, I agree. Volt meters are a much better instrument for this, because you can be charging a degraded battery and your amp meter will still deflect to show it is charging. For me, being able to monitor voltage is the best method of detection that gives you time to take some action if you’re driving. Especially if you’re running Fuel Injection, for instance, with my system, if the voltage to the EFI goes below about 10.5 volts, you are in trouble. Same goes for ignition systems like a modern MSD box. Alternators and modern charging systems are extremely reliable, much more so than batteries. For cars like ours, likely not driven that often, a battery failure is much more likely than an alternator failure. The real weak link in all of the original equipment is the voltage regulator. Pretty sure that Ford did not go from a mechanical to an electronic voltage regulator until 1973 or 1974. This is what keeps your alternator producing that 13.8 or so volts

Oh. Good to know

I meant to say I was just looking at my pictures….

Just look at my pictures, my Wilwood proportioning valve had a spot for the brake pressure switch and that’s where it is mounted

I have a ‘70 convertible automatic with a dual diaphragm stock style booster. The ‘70’s use a straight rod. The booster bolt/stud mounting hardware configuration to the car is also different from ‘69 to ‘70. This can cause other issues under dash. I have an upgraded braking system that uses the stock style booster with a late model Ford Explorer/Ranger master cylinder, and 4 wheel disc setup from late model Mustang Cobra. I never liked the original design, so ditched the pedal actuated switch and used a pressure switch, similar to below diagram. It works great, just make sure it is on the rear brake side of the reservoir.

Got my rear lighting done, everything working as it should. IMG_1660.mov IMG_1659.mov

Hey Mike, looks good. Not sure if you’re using a VHX Dash or not, but on mine, I ran a separate wire to the fuel tank to provide a ground for the VHX fuel gauge indication. I grounded it at one of the screws that attaches the tank to the body. On the American auto wire harness, the fuel sender wire is brown I believe. I just ran another black wire next to that all the way back to the trunk and on the other end there is a place to attach the ground wire on the VHX input box. I think it’s right next to the sender wire. I did this because I’m pretty sure that the manual said that was something that you should do. Another tip is make sure you install your tail lights before your rear bumper. Also, install the license plate lamp assembly into the bumper, before your mount it. This will make things a lot easier. Vic

Oh…. The shaker scoop is not hitting or interfering with my hood closure, it is just too high for my liking.

Thanks!. Like CSNY said….. “It’s been a long time coming….” Hope to have the interior in by Thanksgiving… we will see. In no rush at this point, taking my time. Only current challenge is that I really need to lower my shaker scoop down by around 1/2”, it is too high. I have the lowest profile air cleaner base I can find. But my Performer RPM intake, and 351W deck height are not working in my favor. I have an aftermarket fiberglass base and mid-plate. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Nearly finished on the outside. Just need to install my door handles. Got my convertible rear trim on. Also installed my shaker assembly. It is an aftermarket item, so a few tweaks and it fits pretty well.

Hey Rich. I lived in the Raleigh area for around 8 years a while back, so very familiar with the area. If you need any info, let me know. As far as offloading the stuff, if the new house is smaller and doesn't have the room, consider putting all of your extra stuff into a POD, and have that delivered to a U-Store-It place. Then you can unload and sort it out later. No inspection in NC for any cars over 25 years old. In fact, many counties, like the one I live in, are exempt from even emissions inspection for new cars. I am about 2 hours and 15 minutes from Raleigh plus or minus depending where you live. Southwest near Apex, Holley Springs, or Fuquay is a good spot, if that is where you are

Got my headlights installed. Tested out the AAW wiring I installed three years ago, and fired the horizontal LEDs up. Works as designed.

Hey Rich. Good to hear from you, hope all is well with you. Thanks for the insights. Great explanation about this wiring change that happened in 1970, I did not know that. I realized this ground issue was there after I looked at the wiring on my '68 Mustang. So I decided to do a quick check with test lead to ground that I ran to the screw hole in the '70 parking lamp bracket. That solved the problem, so I just added the permanent ground wire. I have a set of those diagrams, someone posted them on the technical forum years ago. Very useful. Luckily, this was the only lighting area where I didn't have a dedicated ground. I don't have side marker lights anymore, and my tail lights are LEDs that have a dedicated ground going to my trunk ground bus. Your car is spectacular. I plan to take the '70 to Carlisle next year and a couple of Mustang National shows. Thanks Vic

Quick note about using powder-coat/painted parts that are relied on for chassis grounding to complete lighting and other electrical circuits. I had to add a separate ground wire to my parking/turn signal lights that mount to the front bumper. The bumper is powder-coated, and the parking light housings are painted in black epoxy. My screws are also coated black. When I tested the lights, one side was very dim. The other side flickered. Ground wire fixed the issue so both sides have a consistent level of illumination.

Yes, it’s a tight squeeze around the headlight, and the brake tool is pretty big and you could easily bang it off of something while your fooling with the spring

Yeah, definitely avoids flying objects using this hook compared to the needle nose pliers… They’re actually designed for motorcycle exhaust Springs….

This is probably one of the best $6.29 I ever spent. It makes putting the headlights bring in a piece of cake. No more needle nose, pliers, and no more breaking off the tab because you’re pulling too hard.

Putting my headlights in, these are black, 7 inch LED motorcycle headlights. The horizontal bar is a white LED. I have that connected to my fog light switch, instead of using it as a DRL. This way I can run in the early evening with just the white horizontal LED on, and no parking lot or headlights. Should look pretty cool.

Mini project every day, installed my shaker trim ring.