Vicfreg

Renew, welcome to the forum. I have a '70 convertible, nearly complete, but have tons of pictures and lessons learned. I have done the power disc brakes, power steering, suspension, rear, tires, A/C, etc, etc, etc. The limiting factor will be how much money you want to spend. I would not suggest a Coyote swap, that is an extensive amount of work. Check out my restoration thread on this forum, and go through it. That might help you decide what to do. It is "1970 Convertible Restoration" Vic

Hertz....thanks!!! This is SO helpful, thanks for the pictures. I assume you just trimmed the window stop bracket then?

Also not sure the cars were "undercoated". The Chassis and Weld and Sealant Assembly manuals should show what was used.

I used the SEM product for the inside of my front fenders, it is good stuff. I think the factory used 3M "Shutz".

I didn't try to install my dash yet, but what I don't want to do is get everything installed and then try to push my instrument panel in against the large A/C hose. Moving my relay pack that is behind the steering column support is not going to work, as a few years ago, I routed my main wiring harness through there also. I got sourced a smaller (1-1/2") A/C hose on Ebay, and I got some shop vac hose adaptors off of Amazon. So, I will route a 1-1/2" flex duct thorough that tight space, and then go back up to the 2-1/2" to attach to the drivers side factory plastic A/C vent elbow assembly. This will not substantially reduce my airflow, so I am headed that way. Will post the results when I get to it, hopefully tomorrow. I just have to get over to the auto parts store to get a couple 2-1/2" hose clamps.

Also got my passenger side dash panel attached, final item was to install the screws to attach the panel to the map light assembly. Used 1-1/2" #6 SS Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws with #6 SS washers, so it would not damage the paint. Came out good. Installed my "Mustang" emblem on the dash.

Installed my black door locks. Originally tried some knock-off locks to see if they fit. Then sourced some Ford Service Parts from '80s Vintage Mustang. Really high quality parts. The Ford parts are really solid.

Dearborn car, built November 17, 1969 0F03F133077_dlxrpt.pdf

I was incorrect about the wiring support. The small clip below the pencil point is used to mount a wiring connector for the ignition. The connector has a slot on it that slides over the clip. I will see if I can get a few pictures

These are off of my '70 convertible with a build date in November, 1969.

Selling these, they are really nice, media blasted and coated in black satin epoxy. Date codes are easily visible. Message me if interested. Vic

Have one of these for sale if anyone is interested. These are pretty rare, most people got the clock option. Message me if interested.

The one from Summit Racing works pretty well. Link below: https://www.summitracing.com/popup/calcsandtools/compression-calculator

That looks like a '69 bracket in your picture. The '70 version of that bracket is in the diagram below, with my pencil pointing at it. They serve the same purpose, which is to tie the forward facing part of the under column bracket to the clutch/brake pedal support bracket. This is only on the drivers side of the column. The diagram is from the Orange "Chassis" Assembly Manual. The '69 column also has an upper column bracket. The '70 column doesn't have that, instead uses threaded bosses on the column that attach the column to the lower column support. For some reason, on the '70, Ford decided to change the design to anchor the column differently. In the assembly drawings, the '70 small bracket (3B139) has a small diamond next to it, which means that it had to be installed per some specific instructions to meet government safety standards. This is because it is tied into the function of the collapsing steering column, which has to be anchored inside the car to prevent rearward movement into the passenger compartment. This started in 1968, which also delivered such goodies as padded dashes, shoulder belts, padded steering wheel centers, side marker lights, etc, etc... Anyway, the 2 pictures you posted yesterday are the '70 bracket.

I don't have one of those on my '70. The steering column hardware is different between the years. The '70 has the ignition key/lock on the column, and the ignition switch is mounted underneath, along with the wiring. All that stuff is inside the dash on a '69. I will go and look at the Assembly manual, as I am in my shop, and send some drawings/pics along.

Got the Fox Body door locks, and they are great OEM quality parts. Just had to install the lock rod retainer on the other side of the lever, and they went right in. The new style plastic retainers are really heavy duty, more so than the original plastic insert with the little metal clips. Tip is to install that on door lock before putting the lock in the car. Less busted knuckles that way....

Used #6 SS Pan Head Sheet Metal screws 1-1/2" long, with #6 SS washers. From local ACE Hardware.

That post came out weird.. I used #6 SS Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws, 1-1/2" long. Used #6 SS washers.

#6 SS pan head sheet metal screws, 1-1/2" long, from Ace Hardware. Used #6 SS washers. Worked well, looks good.

This visor installation has not been a lot of fun. I wound up doing the rubber mallet and brake lube technique, and it worked. On my drivers side visor bracket, which is chromed, I actually cracked the chrome slightly (not too visible) due to the pounding on the visor bracket. But, I got them on. This was not easy. What a shitty design. I did get a set of cheaper visors, and they were even worse. I don't see this working at all if you do not use brake lube or some other lubricant. Not sure how the heck they did this at the factory.

Pretty sure on the steering column. Used for wiring support. Check the assembly drawings. Pretty sure I have one on my ‘70

Here is another great site. https://www.mustangtek.com/

Installing my kick panel and vent mounted speakers