Vicfreg

Actually, there’s no holes there and I use the S clip and it worked fine. .

Got it. Thanks for the tip. Yes, the S-Clip will work perfectly! I have an extra couple from old duct mounting pieces. Thanks!!

The configuration is fixed in that orientation due to the way the plastic piece was manufactured.

The "hazard flasher" is the result of US Government regulations that came out in 1966 that resulted in lots of changes to the cars being sold in those days. It took a few years to implement this, and most car manufacturers scrambled to meet the requirements. I have had probably a dozen '65 to -70 Mustangs. The hazard flashers wound up on the steering column in late '67 for the Mustangs. Here is a picture of what the '66 Mustang emergency flashers looked like..... This also resulted in having 2 separate flasher relays in the car. One for the directionals, and one for the emergency flashers.

Oh, anticipating questions on the impact on the air delivery through the duct.... Since the diameter of the short length of flex duct behind the gauge package is smaller, the velocity through that section of duct will be higher. However, since air is a gas, and is compressible, the Conservation of Mass Law applies. What that means is the mass flow of air is constant through the air duct system. So, possibly could generate more noise, but in my opinion, no impact.

Just updating my thread here to include the A/C duct routing that I had posted in the tech forum. The problem I faced is that I put my main wiring harness and relay package for my AAW wiring harness behind the steering column support brace. I did not realize that the A/C duct ran through there on the way to the drivers side A/C register. The AAW gauge package is pretty big and I was not convinced I could run the A/C flex duct through there and still fit the gauge package in. So, I sourced a smaller diameter A/C duct, and used some shop vac adaptors to run the smaller diameter A/C duct in front of the column support bracket. Looks like it will work, so will keep everyone posted on how this goes. I plan to have my dash installed around the first of the year...

Think I got it set up for success, hopefully. Trial fit everything, so my plan is to run the small duct across the steering column/dash support behind my instrument panel gauge package. In the final preparations to install my dash, I expect do to this before the end of the year....

I have the metal tab (has the yellow tape on it in the picture above), but nowhere to mount it.....

My car is an original air-conditioning car, and it has an original air-conditioning dash. Not sure where this air-conditioning plastic duct mounting tab gets attached to? There is no hole in the upper glove compartment door structure that indicates this was ever mounted there.

For sure without Mike it would never have happened. He is a sheet metal genius....

Neat video

Wow. Interesting. I am not great with the spray gun, I will stick with the Dynamat....

Just noticed that my first post on the this forum was 8 years ago....! Wow, time moves fast. Never could have gotten this far without the help of all the great people on this site. Amazing group of people! Vic

Just noticed that my first post on the this forum was 8 years ago....! Wow, time moves fast. Never could have gotten this far without the help of all the great people on this site. Amazing group of people! Vic

This is a very elusive cause you are chasing here. The only other thing I can think of is perhaps a vacuum leak.....

Agree. Better than the old white lithium lube. I prefer Tabasco.....

I am using a glass rear window. I am currently travelling on business, I will take some pics of my top when I get back home. I have owned several convertibles, and I don't really recommend a plastic window. Perhaps some of the other members have a different experience. Vic

Thanks Mate. Appreciate it. Vic

Also ran the wire for my hands-free microphone under the A-pillar trim up to the visor. That will hook into my audio head unit.

Finally got my visors, windlass, and A-Pillar trim installed on the convertible. Trimmed the windlass best I could to match the angle of the visor bracket.

Nice

Remove the transmission cross member mounting bolts. Remove the drivers side long bolt on the motor mount. Jack up the drivers side of the engine, see if that makes the room you need.

C4 is the logical choice. Find out what year it is, as there are several types of C-4 transmissions out there, and some of them are actually C-5s. For sure should bolt up to your 302. If you have the original flex plate, keep it and use it. Later automatic transmissions could have a different "balance weight" than the older cars. I actually have a c-6 bolted up to my '69 351 W block, it fits and works fine. A C-6 is likely overkill for your car, and actually the C-4s can take plenty of power. Vic

Don, first of all, stunning car. Well done! Nice touch with the body color red bumper! I would go with the lighter color interior and top. I think tan would look great. There are a ton of aftermarket interior upholstery kits available from the major suppliers that have a custom look. Assume your summer season is pretty hot, so even though leather is great, it can get hot. I would use some form of the "comfortweave" original upholstery, which might be more forgiving in the summer months. Vic

Renew, welcome to the forum. I have a '70 convertible, nearly complete, but have tons of pictures and lessons learned. I have done the power disc brakes, power steering, suspension, rear, tires, A/C, etc, etc, etc. The limiting factor will be how much money you want to spend. I would not suggest a Coyote swap, that is an extensive amount of work. Check out my restoration thread on this forum, and go through it. That might help you decide what to do. It is "1970 Convertible Restoration" Vic